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Old 05-29-2004, 01:19 PM   #1
1331
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Question Ground Controls with AGX's: Installation Questions

I am about to install a Ground Control 280/250 setup on AGX's, and am not wanting to cut the perches. Anyone have experience with what this will give me for ride heights front and rear? This is on a 2002 WRX seee-dan...

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Last edited by 1331; 05-30-2004 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 05-30-2004, 10:40 AM   #2
1331
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One more question: What is the best way to knock the caps off of the AGX's?

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Old 05-30-2004, 01:13 PM   #3
Cheveyboy
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Why would you have to cut the spring perches?
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Old 05-30-2004, 01:28 PM   #4
WillysPU
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I have a set of AGX's that I used with my GC's for about 3k miles, if you are interested in buying them pm me. You could then sell your un-cut AGX's to someone else.

To knock off the top use a wide blade sscrew driver and tap it around the edge of the cap, the cap will move up and then pop off. Also, before you put the GC sleeve, wrap the shock with at least one wind of duct tape where the sleeve will fit, that will insulate the sleeve from the shock and reduce rubbing abrasion and noise.

Not sure what type of hieght you will get, you don't want to go to low in the front because you will run out of suspension travel. The real problem with leaving the perches on is that they may hit the wheel well when you try to adjust for neg. camber.

Here is a pic of my AGX's cut and ready to go:AGX vs OEM




W/out springs and top hats


last pic of my sedan.#162 after a day of racing on the GC's mine is the sedan.

Last edited by WillysPU; 05-30-2004 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 05-31-2004, 02:32 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by WillysPU
I have a set of AGX's that I used with my GC's for about 3k miles, if you are interested in buying them pm me. You could then sell your un-cut AGX's to someone else.
Why are you moving away from the AGX's? What spring rates are you using? How did they handle your rates?

Quote:
Originally posted by WillysPU
To knock off the top use a wide blade sscrew driver and tap it around the edge of the cap, the cap will move up and then pop off. Also, before you put the GC sleeve, wrap the shock with at least one wind of duct tape where the sleeve will fit, that will insulate the sleeve from the shock and reduce rubbing abrasion and noise.
Thanks for the tips.

Quote:
Originally posted by WillysPU
Not sure what type of hieght you will get, you don't want to go to low in the front because you will run out of suspension travel.
You cut right at where the perch goes from vertical to horizontal, right? If so, then lowering should be equivalent to not cutting the perches. How low are you able to go in front, and with which spring rate and length?

Quote:
Originally posted by WillysPU
The real problem with leaving the perches on is that they may hit the wheel well when you try to adjust for neg. camber.
I've never heard of this. Can it realistically happen? I have heard of folks running caster / camber plates with stock-diameter springs, but never saw this issue mentioned...
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Old 05-31-2004, 02:44 AM   #6
dorifto88
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from my understanding, people cut the spring perch on their stock struts so it is easy to adjust the new spring perch on the GC's. w/o cutting them, it would be very difficult (at least id imagine) to adjust height.
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Old 05-31-2004, 02:45 AM   #7
dorifto88
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Quote:
Originally posted by WillysPU
I have a set of AGX's that I used with my GC's for about 3k miles, if you are interested in buying them pm me. You could then sell your un-cut AGX's to someone else.

To knock off the top use a wide blade sscrew driver and tap it around the edge of the cap, the cap will move up and then pop off. Also, before you put the GC sleeve, wrap the shock with at least one wind of duct tape where the sleeve will fit, that will insulate the sleeve from the shock and reduce rubbing abrasion and noise.

Not sure what type of hieght you will get, you don't want to go to low in the front because you will run out of suspension travel. The real problem with leaving the perches on is that they may hit the wheel well when you try to adjust for neg. camber.

Here is a pic of my AGX's cut and ready to go:AGX vs OEM




W/out springs and top hats


last pic of my sedan.#162 after a day of racing on the GC's mine is the sedan.
Are you selling your GC's?
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Old 05-31-2004, 12:51 PM   #8
WillysPU
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I'll try to answer all of these questions:


What spring rates?:
I am running 340# springs up front and 300# springs in the rear both are 7 inch springs on the GC sleeves with Koni insert shocks. Both the Koni's and the AGX's handle these spring rates just fine. GC will telly you that both could handle upto about 400# springs and the Konis even a little more. Talk to Tony at GC he will set you up.

Why am I switching form AGX to Koni?:
I moved to the Koni's from the AGX's because I liked the infinate adjustability rather than the 4-clicks that the AGX's have. This allows a bit more flexibility at the track. However, the AGX's were excellent on the street and for most track situations although I felt they reacted a little bit too qucikly for my style of driving. This is really more of a personal preference.

Where do you cut the perch and how low can you go?
You can actually cut the perch almost anywhere along the collar that is welded onto the shock. I used a hack saw and if you are careful you can feel the difference between the collar and the shock and when you get close, just knock it off with a hammer. If you tell Tony you plan to cut the perch (which they suggest) he will send the large washer that the perch sits on.

Going low is a function of the stiffness of your springs and where you are going to drive. The lower you go the stiffer the spring rate should be to prevent you from bottoming out. Koni claims that their shock performs the same at what ever hieght the car is set at and KYB has a limit on how low they suggest you go. As I said before both shocks worked really well on this set up. You will find that you will need to cut your bumpstop really short, like one or two rings.

With the GC sleeves you could lower the car to ride almost ride on the top of the shock if you wanted, but then you wouldn't have any suspension travel. I had my car professionally aligned and corner balanced and the ride hieght is set at FL= 25 3/4, FR= 25 7/8, RR= 25 3/8 and RL= 25 3/8 as measured from the apex of the fender. With my 180lbs body that resulted in a weight balance going front to rear of 59.3%/40.7% not quite the 50/50 of a boxster so you can see why you need the stiffer springs up front and a sway bar in the rear. Here is what the car looks like at that hieght:front sedan and rear rear sedan It is basically 1 finger high in the rear and two fingers in the front. I have on my oem 16 wheels with toyo ra1's. (The wagon next to me is on sti struts and the pink springs).

Can spring perches hit the side of the car?
Yes, when you have camber/caster plates and you go low, the perches come very close to the inside fender well and it is very difficult to adjust the sleeves with the perch in place. In front I have the GC top mounts plates and in the rear I have Noltec adjustable plates. I am running 2.6* of camber in front with 3.9* caster and 1.5* camber rear and zero toe all around. The car rides smooth and steady and handles great.

I hope that helps, another member named Cosworth has a great write up on the install.
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