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Old 10-15-2000, 04:24 PM   #1
ANZAC_1915
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Member#: 456
Join Date: Oct 1999
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Location: Redmond, WA, USA
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2008 Forester XT
Steel Gray Metallic

Question clutch bleed procedure

Can someone post the correct clutch bleeding procedure?

Vacuum? (tried that and got a lot of bubbles, I think my kit is tool old).

Pressure?
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Old 10-15-2000, 04:33 PM   #2
STi Sev
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99 Impreza
Rally Blue Pearl

Post

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhk..

Email either ARG or Imprezer.

Me and Imprezer did this on my car and it was a b()Tch!!!!!!! So was the brakes..

Only because we didn't know how to do the clutch
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Old 10-15-2000, 07:53 PM   #3
ANZAC_1915
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2008 Forester XT
Steel Gray Metallic

Lightbulb

We made our own pressure bleeder by drilling a hole in the cap and using an electric tire inflator.

It at least got it to the stage where it is drivable.

We got nowhere using vacuum bleeding.

Glenn
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Old 10-15-2000, 08:06 PM   #4
Imprezer
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2011 Impreza WRX STi
Black

Post

Hey Glenn,

It's nice to see you here, finally.

Anyways, bleeding the clutch is no different from bleeding the brakes. The only difference is, you need to push and pull the clutch pedal with your hand. Do it slowly. Don't let the spring pull or push the pedal for you. I repeat, so it VERY SLOWLY. Push and pull the pedal VERY SLOWLY 3 times, hold the pedal to the floor and have you buddy open the valve for a sec. Keep doing it until the pedal gets firmer and firmer.

The trick is to pump the pedal slowly. Did I say slowly? Yes, do it very slowly, hehe.



Let me know if it works for you.
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Old 10-15-2000, 10:30 PM   #5
ARG
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Have a Nice Day?

You drilled a hole in the cap and forced air into it? Sure, that will work, but now you need a new cap!!

ARG
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Old 10-16-2000, 06:31 AM   #6
ColinL
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Bah... whip out the JB Weld.
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Old 10-16-2000, 07:08 AM   #7
Revision
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The bleed valve for the clutch is located under the plenum/large airbox. You will need to remove it to get to the valve.

You will need a 10mm (or was it 12mm) wrench to open and close the valve. You will also need some aquarium tubing (6-8 inches of standard 1/4 inch variety), a small bottle, and a second person to actuate the clutch, and don't forget the brake fluid.

Take the bleed valve cap off the nipple and wipe off any accumulated dirt around the valve. Fit the tubing to the nipple and stick the other end of the tubing into the bottle. The bottle end of the tubing should fit all the way to the bottom (use tape to hold it in place if neccessary). Find a convient place in the engine bay to secure the bottle. Have your friend pump the clutch pedal. You will notice the slave cylinder pushing on the clutch fork. This is what will do all the work of pushing the clutch fluid. Have said friend hold down the clutch pedal and open the bleed valve (counterclockwise). Watch the clutch fork as it drops. When it has almost finished moving, close the bleed valve. Have friend reach down and pull clutch back up by force then have friend pump on clutch.
Repeat until clutch resourvoir is almost empty.
If this is your first clutch bleed you will notice dirt at the bottom of the resouvoir. Some people have wiped the dirt away with LINT FREE shop towels, others have left the dirt alone, others still have flushed the dirt out with lots and lots of brake fluid.
Add clean brake fluid to resourvoir and Repeat until the fluid in the tubing is clear and golden.
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Old 10-16-2000, 08:15 AM   #8
Travis R
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'07 Mazda CX-7, '91
BMW 535i & '06 Ninja 650R

Question

So the one man vacuum bleeder tool doesn't work on the clutch? I just bought one. I guess the issue is whether the hand pump can pull fluid from the reservoir past the seals in the master cylinder or not. Or am I thinking about this wrong?
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Old 10-16-2000, 08:48 AM   #9
Necromancer
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Yeah, that's about right.

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You know, the Joel Gat Special '99 tranny with cable clutch isn't looking so bad right now....
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Old 10-16-2000, 09:36 AM   #10
Joel Gat, 1.8L
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Hello,

I was just going to say, Joe, that I bleed my clutch by turning the barrel adjuster. Takes me about 30 seconds to adjust the clutch and no dirt

Joel
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Old 10-16-2000, 09:40 AM   #11
ColinL
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Post

Wait until you have an aftermarket clutch with lots of clamping force and you're snapping clutch cables left and right. Then you'll be at the junkyard scavenging another slave cylinder...
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Old 10-16-2000, 10:51 AM   #12
Joel Gat, 1.8L
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Hello,

The ACT pressure plate gives me no problems Of course, you have to realize that the cable clutch setup moves the pivot point closer to the throwout bearing AND is longer passed the pivot point, so I'd roughly guess that the cable setup gives you about twice the lever arm that the hydraulic system has to work with, maybe more. So I have mechanical advantage on my side

Joel, with a clutch pedal that's easy as pie to push in...
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Old 10-19-2000, 09:25 AM   #13
Travis R
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'07 Mazda CX-7, '91
BMW 535i & '06 Ninja 650R

Exclamation

So getting back to the hydraulic clutch issue....
Revision, is your info from the shop manual, or from personal experience? I tried bleeding it last night and I think I only made it worse. When I "Have friend reach down and pull clutch back up by force then have friend pump on clutch." is the bleed valve open or closed? Should I pull the clutch lever away from the slave cylinder while he is pumping? What am I trying to accomplish by pumping the pedal? Get more fluid into the system?
Right now the clutch pedal is about 2 inches from my floor board, and barely disengages the clutch. It would seem to me that there is either a crap-load or air in the system or not enough fluid.
Any help appreciated.

[This message has been edited by Travis R (edited October 19, 2000).]
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