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Old 07-05-2004, 05:07 AM   #26
BATSCUBIE
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im so excited i cant sleep and we start the motor swap in the mornin.........it is the morning im going to watch the sunrise.
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Old 07-05-2004, 07:47 AM   #27
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AHHHHHHHHHHHHH. It's 7:45 and I have to go to the bathroom but I have to post that I'm excited to get this thing going!!!!!!

BRB.....

Jose
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Old 07-05-2004, 07:58 AM   #28
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Ok, I'll admit that it was me that messed up the "4-hour" roll pin....
I did, however, do a great job on the rotors.

Oh, btw...I get to ride in this beast before some of you

See you there
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Old 07-05-2004, 08:28 PM   #29
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The swap started today ...

More later...

Thanks to Jose, Glenn and Ben. They all rock.

Thanks,

Sean
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:37 PM   #30
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DAMN, you win on the turbo front, but I won on the tranny and motor front. All in all you are ahead now


Soon I will be right there with ya man
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Old 07-06-2004, 07:40 AM   #31
big_adventure
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Jarrad,

I'm getting an odd clunk from below my car. It will happen one of two ways:

1. clutch disengaged, put car in gear while rolling, engage clutch without matching revs.

2. hitting a sharp bump, EXECPT when the clutch is engaged and the car is under positive accellerative load.

When the clunk happens, it seems to be something hitting something under the car, and I can usually feel it through the floor.

Initially, we thought this was the pitch-stop, and that was part of it - the person who was supposed to connect it did not. However, it still happens. It may still be something easy, like an unbolted "something". My question: did this happen to you?

I have the STi tranny mount (it came wiith the STi 6MT). I had the stock engine and pitch-stop mounts, though that will change with the new engine.

About the new engine - I'll start a new thread soon.

-Sean
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Old 07-06-2004, 08:22 AM   #32
roffle
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wait...
374AWHP on the stock block??? whoa
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Old 07-06-2004, 09:58 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally posted by big_adventure
Jarrad,
My question: did this happen to you?
-Sean
My car has no such noise. Actually my car makes NO noises out of the ordinary. My guess is you missed something. Make sure you got all the bolts on the tranny cradle, and the two bolts on the drive shaft support. The fact that it doesn't happen when the car is pulling indicates a more direct link to the drive train. Although once you have the car on a lift you might as well check the rear diff carrier bolts. There are 4 of them that bolt right to the frame. Those are the most likely canadates.
Do you get it with on/off throttle transitions?
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:29 PM   #34
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Its very possible its your downpipe.. I have to push mine over a bit and then tighten the lower mount.. Even then it hits on startup and shut down sometimes.. Check that..

C
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Old 07-07-2004, 12:18 AM   #35
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sean on the clunk...

make sure the dog bone type engine mount is in place and tight!! trust me on this one!
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Old 07-07-2004, 08:08 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally posted by roffle
wait...
374AWHP on the stock block??? whoa
Yep, she's strong. And that was on 98 octane, WITH a cat in the system...

Everyone else - thanks for the hints. I'll check everything soon...

Here's why it won't be now...
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Old 07-07-2004, 08:55 AM   #37
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Monday we started the engine swap. I'm going from a stock engine to a v7 RA Spec C beast.

First, there was some damage to the RA motor in shipping. The front and back driver's side timing belt covers were cracked. Fortunately it was the driver's side pieces, as they are the exact same size as stock. If it was the other side, I'd have been somewhat screwed. The exhaust cam gear was a little cracked too, but this is also the same as stock. Mike at Kingpin is going to send me some new parts.

The STi 6MT clutch was also shot, so I ordered an Exedy Twin-Plate, after discussing options with a lot of people. There are no organic street discs out there that can hold the power, and I don't want to have to replace a clutch in 5000 miles if I can avoid it. Pulling that tranny is not fun at all. Three-puck or six-puck cerametallic clutches are harsh as he77 and streetable only by a loose definition. Plus, they eat flywheels. Since this is twin-plate, it will be closer to streetable than any of the ultra-strong single disc clutches. I thought about the Tilton organic twin plate, but I didn't want to a) spend $1600 or b) wait over a week while the vendor assembled the parts. Plus, since this clutch uses its own flywheel, I'll have a lovely STi 6MT flywheel to sell. It was a little scarred, but a machine shop surfaced it yesterday and it came out perfectly.

Anyway, on Monday, we pulled the motor. We disconnected all of the connectors, drained coolant and oil, removed the shift-fork locking rod, evac'd the A/C (no, we didn't strictly have to, but Ben, the shop owner, decided that it would be a good idea - the EPA frowns on refrigerant venting), unbolted and put the power-steering and A/C compressor assemblies to the side, pulled the starter and transmission bolts, pulled the engine mount nuts and lifted out the engine.

We pulled the RA motor's front timing cover, timing belt and driver's side cam gears to pull the rear timing cover assembly. We did the same on the stock motor. We then put the stock rear timing cover on the RA motor, put the RA cam gears back on, removed the driver's side valve cover, set TDC, held the cams with tools, and replaced the timing belt in correct timing. Yes, all of the notches line up. Having Jose along really helped, as he did this two weeks ago with Speedy GP's engine (which I tuned for him - it's awsome!)

We replaced the rest of the timing cover, and scammed some threebond from the subie dealer to reattach the valve cover.

We started unbolting components from the stock motor and bolting them to the RA motor.

Yesterday, I went back for a few hours and did some more work. First, I swapped over my entire exhaust manifold system and uppipe. No worries there. I used mine because my O2 sensor is effectively un-removable (SOA much have used a gorilla or a team of rhinos to torque it in), and I've drilled my #4 for an EGT probe.

I discovered some things about RA motors that make them "fun". There are a second set of breather lines that don't exist on the stock motor. These lines are just to balance pressure between the heads and the crankcase. There is a soft line from each head, right behind the first set that is in the same location as stock. These connect to a hardpipe that is bolted in under the manifold and vents to the crankcase. Unfortunately, this hardline is DIRECTLY in the way of my Perrin inlet pipe's recirc port, and makes it impossible to get the turbo on. Yay. We used an airsaw to cut one of the seven brackets on this hardpipe. I then managed to bend the pipe by shoving in a 3/8 entension and yanking the snot out of it. I got that done and Ben and I got the inlet pipe over my turbo compressor inlet. Thanks to not having TGV's on these risers, this was much easier than on the stock motor. It still wasn't THAT easy, though, as that Turbonetics T04 compressor housing is still huge.

I also removed the RA motor's GBODs and pulled the injectors on one side. A little fuel slopped out, which sucks, because I needed to solder on some new injector clips for the RC750 injectors I'm going to use. I left the fuel-rails attached on the other side. I cut off the stock clips, stripped back the wires, and crimped the 4 new clips on. I hope the wiring is correct, because the wiring on the RCs is black and black. On the stock clips, they are red and green or red and blue. For consistency, I connected the red wire to the same side on the new clips as the old clips, however, since there are only two wires, it really shouldn't matter. On the side of the motor without fuel, I soldered the new clips on and shrank on some heatshrink. I still need to solder and wrap the other side.

I test-fitted one of the RC injectors, and I don't think it will work with the o-rin that RC sent. Once the injector was in, there was no obvious seal, so I took off the STi o-ring and used that. It's a tight fit into the o-ring land, but it feel seated. The RC injectors are much, much larger than stock, so you have to shim the fuel rails. No worries - RC sent the spacers. We'll see how this goes once I've got the motor in the car.

Tomorrow, we are slated to finish the swap. Glenn has an extra rear main seal, so we're going to pop that in. We're going to pop in the new clutch. I'll solder and shrink the last two injector wires, and tape up the wiring harnesses. I'll wire up AVCS (if I can somehow find shielded wiring, of course, no luck so far).

Then, in goes the new beast. I'll add the coolant, oil and water wetter and away I should go.

I'll let you all know.

-Sean
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Old 07-07-2004, 08:57 AM   #38
big_adventure
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Gabe,

Yeah, we had forgotten to bolt up the pitch-stop when we did the tranny swap. However, tightening that up did not fix the clunk. I'll keep looking once the car is up in the air again.

-Sean
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Old 07-07-2004, 12:20 PM   #39
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This may be a dumb question, but what kind of power are you expecting to put put in the end? ET times?

By my estimates you had almost 500hp at the crank before the new block... jeez... want to trade cars?

Btw - if you've got your stock powertrain for sale, I might be interested....................................:ban ana:
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Old 07-07-2004, 01:12 PM   #40
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Old 07-08-2004, 01:19 AM   #41
CeeLowe
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Sean,

About your clunk I have the same problem. Its partly to do with the downpipe like Clark said, except mine is the bend in the axle back part of my exhaust. It hits the rear subframe where the trailing arms connect. It rattles on start up and shut down and I was able to fix it with pushing the downpipe over a bit and also using two small worm clamps on the exhaust hangers to hold the muffler over slightly. The noise would do the same thing yours is doing when the trans was unloaded, or when I hit awkward bumps. But never under accelleration. Take your hand/ or foot if the exhaust is hot and move your muffler back and forth and you should be able to recreate the noise.

Chris
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:06 AM   #42
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Thanks Chris, I'll check that today after doing the motor swap.

-Sean
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Old 07-08-2004, 09:41 AM   #43
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the swap is goin on today?
how late you guys gonna be there till?

Drew
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Old 07-08-2004, 09:49 AM   #44
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I wanna see some pictures of the engine swap when you guys are done
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Old 07-08-2004, 09:51 AM   #45
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AWD burnouts

Drew
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Old 07-08-2004, 10:14 AM   #46
big_adventure
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Probably pretty late, Drew. I'm hoping to get there by 4 or a little earlier. Jose and Glenn might arrive by 6-6:30.

Before they arrive, I'll:

Solder on the last two injector clips
Install the injectors
Wire the AVCS solenoids
(hopefully) wire the AVCS cam sensors (shielded wire is my bane...)
Assemble the new clutch
Replace one coolant hose that I don't like.

They will arrive, and then we'll install the new rear main seal and clutch. Then we'll drop in the engine, mount the PS and AC, install the belts, connect the connectors, put in the ECU, add coolant and oil, and see what's what.

No AWD burnouts tonight, though, I have to break in the new clutch.

-Sean


Quote:
Originally posted by WRX8XB
the swap is goin on today?
how late you guys gonna be there till?

Drew
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:22 PM   #47
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Good Luck man, Let me know how it all turns out. Im Jealous.

C-Lo
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Old 07-08-2004, 09:32 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally posted by big_adventure
Probably pretty late, Drew. I'm hoping to get there by 4 or a little earlier. Jose and Glenn might arrive by 6-6:30.

Before they arrive, I'll:

Solder on the last two injector clips
Install the injectors
Wire the AVCS solenoids
(hopefully) wire the AVCS cam sensors (shielded wire is my bane...)
Assemble the new clutch
Replace one coolant hose that I don't like.

They will arrive, and then we'll install the new rear main seal and clutch. Then we'll drop in the engine, mount the PS and AC, install the belts, connect the connectors, put in the ECU, add coolant and oil, and see what's what.

No AWD burnouts tonight, though, I have to break in the new clutch.

-Sean

Not to pry into finicial matters, but what would you say a ballpark for JUSDT THE PARTS would be. You can itemize if you would like to respond, but I am very interested.

I am already considering a swap as I am looking to make the WRX my 'track' car, and step up to a USDM STi as a daily driver.

Let me know. I would LOVE to see how it all turns out, and what engine management you are going to go with (the RA ECU come with this? You going to mix your own gas so it wont knock?)

Good luck man, and are you ever going to street this thing again? Sleeper daily driver

- dow
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Old 07-09-2004, 06:44 AM   #49
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MOTOR IS IN. When I got there I saw Sean a little unhappy due to the fact that the RC injectors hadn't been machined to fit the subaru intakes. So, he has to wait until today when the new "machined" injectors arrive. Other than that I installed a new rear main seal, courtesy of Glenn. I wanted to install the new seal because I saw some remnants of oil in the bell-housing. Plus, the engine was out and easy to swap in the new seal. After, I installed the exedy twin disc clutch. What a beauty of engineering. Suprisingly, Sean says that the pedal is almost normal.
We proceeded with installing the motor. Pretty much went in smooth. With one exception.....Sean's huge turbo getting in the way . Not to worry though, one lift of the motor here, a shove from Glenn over there. One more lift on the tranny and in she went. By this time, it was somewhere around 9p.m. and we had to get going. We installed the a/c compressor and power steering pump and left it at that for the night.
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Old 07-09-2004, 07:46 AM   #50
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Jose (Pacobeagle1) was an invaluable help yesterday. He just threw a new engine in Glenn's car last month, so the information is fresh in mind.

About the injectors, they have a lip around the tip. This lip is usually machined when RC sends out a set for a Subie, but it looks as if mine were not machined. That lip makes contact with the bottom of the injector port. Basically, if you've never looked down there, the port is the size of the injector body. then it narrows down at the tip. The tips of the stock or STi injectors fit through this port, and the o-ring seals it. The tips of the RC's do NOT fit. Ouch.

I called RC and spoke with Carol and others there. We figured out what must have happened, and they are taking care of me. They have excellent customer support, I highly recommend dealing with them from that perspective alone.

Basically, it's like Jose said - the engine is in the car. There are just a few steps left to go -

1. Get the new set of injectors - please let FedEx do the job here.
2. Pop them into the car - please let them FIT!
3. Find and attach the last power-steering pump bolt. Ben wanted to get out of there, so we were hurrying. Jose had this bolt in hand, and it walked away somehow from one moment to the next. Jose and I looked for it for 10 minutes, and we decided to call it a night.
4. Install the belts and tension them.
5. Install the radiator.
6. Install the coolant hoses, coolant tank.
7. Install the catchcan lines.
8. Make sure that everything is capped appropriately.
9. Rewire for the AVCS solenoids.
10. Add wires for the AVCS cam sensors. To get the right wiring down here, I had to buy two shielded ignition wire kits from MSD - $25 EACH. $%^&&^$^%$^$*(**^#%$%%#%#!!!!!!!!!
11. Connect all of the wiring.
12. Add coolant (Prestone, Water Wetter, water) and oil (M1).
13. Install the RA ECU (AH970).
14. Rough-tune the UTEC for the new injectors.

After that, we crank her up. Here's me crossing fingers. this should happen today!

-Sean
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