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Old 06-26-2004, 08:34 PM   #1
munkis
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Default Is Greddy Emanage my solution?

Ok guys im a bit leary that a good tune on my SAFC will fix my fueling problems, but I will try that first...

Ive been reading alot, and its either gonna be an emanage, now or live with my fueling problems and get a hydra later...

Im still running too rich on decel, and flooding out, causing the car to stall...

Here is my set up again.


EJ22T shortblock attached to 2.5 DOHC heads
Rallispec turbo setup includes-
-turbonetics t3/t4 turbo with ported inlet housing
-Rallispec intercooler
-Greddy BOV
-Tial wastegate w/6 lbs spring
-3" Catback
-single high flow cat
S-AFC
J&S knockguard
MBC set to 10 lbs boost
400 CC/Min injectors
Supra Fuel pump
PiperCross intake
NGK BKR7E-11 Plugs (.030)
Magnecor wires
gauges - boost, EGT, oil pressue, fuel pressure + air/fuel ratio
Rallispec oil cooler
Jaz Oil Catch Can

ACT clutch
STi shortShift kit
Cusco shifter bushing
STi motor + tranny mounts

My current issue.
What seems to be flooding on decel, or any time I lift throttle..causing afterburn/backfire, and stalling when it comes back down to idle.

My Goals.
To run 14-15psi (ill worry about breaking my trans later )
Fix the Stalling issue.
Run low 13s (currenty 13.8 - 13.9 area with a really good launch)

any thoughts, or shoudl I hold out and get the hydra, I really dont want to spend that much money, if I can get good results from the emanage, I read alot of threads about people using them on their 98s with a J&S with good results.

I think xxtuning in ct offers the emanage, and im sure they tune it. I just want something I dont have to keep playing with and adjusting..

any inputs are appreciated.

Jay
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Old 06-26-2004, 08:54 PM   #2
subiekid
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offtopic, but what year are you heads from? I am guessing 98??? What head gaskets did you use? Also what inatake manifold are you using? And last what type of injectors are you running?
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Old 06-26-2004, 09:13 PM   #3
munkis
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Everything is 98 RS (2.5 phase1 DOHC)

Short block is from a 94 Legacy Turbo.

All the reciept says is ''Custom Copper Head Gaskets"

All I know is tha the injectors are 400CC, and the conectors dont fit from the RS harness, so they are 'rigged'

I bought the car like this but have all the reciepts from the builder (Rallispec) I can look on them monday and see if there is any more info about the head gaskets.

Jay
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Old 06-26-2004, 11:51 PM   #4
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I had the same problem with decel on my emanage (not tuned) RST with 440's and WRX pump.

You NEED a new FPR with that supra pump it is very strong. I need a new one with my WRX pump. I run at 40psi at idle just with the WRX. or stock FPR is very very restrictive.

you also should check for vac leaks. I just fixed a bad leak at one of my silocone couplers and it helped the stalling issue 300%

I built a intake pressure tester out of a piece of pvc pipe to find the leak. get a pvc end cap and tap in a air valve like from a tire. I picked up the cap/tap/valve at a truevalue hardwear store near my house for $10. You cap you intake off on the engine side of the MAF and test for leaks by inflating the valve.

if you are near boston you can use mine.

another thing to consider is that if your BOV is not recirculating that will add to your decel enrichment.

good luck

Todd
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Old 06-27-2004, 12:44 AM   #5
subiekid
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Quote:
Originally posted by McDade
Everything is 98 RS (2.5 phase1 DOHC)

Short block is from a 94 Legacy Turbo.

All the reciept says is ''Custom Copper Head Gaskets"

All I know is tha the injectors are 400CC, and the conectors dont fit from the RS harness, so they are 'rigged'

I bought the car like this but have all the reciepts from the builder (Rallispec) I can look on them monday and see if there is any more info about the head gaskets.

Jay
Yea that would be really cool. You can pm me the info if you dont want to post in this thread. I have been wanting to do a 2.5 head converions on my ej22T. I am wondering if the cr will be lowered or raised with this.

Thanks
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:50 AM   #6
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Have you fooled with the decel air function on the SAFC to see if you can lean it out a little with that?

Brent
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:59 AM   #7
munkis
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yes ive tried all different settings on the decel air, and havent found a good combination

my BOV is recirculating.

I think I made my problem worse by adding a catch can saturday because I didnt want to recirc the crankase vapors into to my new IAC valve...

the way they are set up on the intake tube is backwords.

my fuel pressure is lower according to my fuel pressure gauge. around 37.5 at idle, and never goes over 49psi under boost.

No vacuum leaks that I can tell.

I have thought about the FPR, but havent come up with a good solution to that, I tried to put a WRX regulator in but it doesnt fit.

When my car idles it idles fine, its just on decel when I have the problem. and Vacuum guage is pefrect pegged on decel, if there was a vacuum leek it would probably fluctuate.

Jay
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Old 06-27-2004, 12:40 PM   #8
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That T3/T4 probably moves a LOT of air after you close the BOV. It may sound ghetto, but you want to try a bit of a trick to see if my theory is right?

If you're blowing off that large of a quantity of air, perhaps what would help is to take a rag and lay it over the outlet of the BOV so it's only one layer thick over it, then clamp it onto there. It'll add some resistance on blowing the air off, but not enough to damage anything and might do a couple of things... might help the turbo spool down faster, and it might help keep a little air (pressure?) in the intake between shifts. It might take the car longer to rev down if it's primarily the latter, but the first won't be a big deal because it's not a full pressure blockage.

It's a hack, but it just might work for the time being.
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Old 06-27-2004, 12:52 PM   #9
munkis
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The other thing...

well another question, there are two vacuum fittings on the BOV, on either side of the diaphram.

The vacuum hose is hooked up to the one on front part of the BOV.

Anyone know the difference, or what is gained by using one over the other?

My car will stall at light throttle as well, if im idling and try to creep foward in traffi, park, or if im trying to do a k turn or something, forget it, it will stall everytime, I dont know if that helps.
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Old 06-27-2004, 03:54 PM   #10
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The other one should be ran to the chargepipe between the turbo and intercooler. Atleast that what I could figure out from the GReddy instructions. Seems to work better for me now. And obviously the other one runs to the manifold.



And lots of people say it's fine to run it open instead of hooked up to something, but I figured GReddy put it there for a reason. I've heard that you don't need it if you not running much boost.
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Old 06-27-2004, 04:24 PM   #11
Hitokiri
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i would put money on the vac leak.

thats what mine was. build the tester that I described!

pm me if you want a better description

Todd
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Old 06-27-2004, 04:59 PM   #12
STi-Nismo Dood
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Quote:
Originally posted by McDade
yes ive tried all different settings on the decel air, and havent found a good combination

my BOV is recirculating.

I think I made my problem worse by adding a catch can saturday because I didnt want to recirc the crankase vapors into to my new IAC valve...

Jay
Just wondering, what decel-air correction setting did you do on your SAFC?

I.e.:
Thr%: - ??
NE1 (1000) - ??
NE2 (2000?) - ??

My car would stall before on lifting off throttle (especially when the car has been started for only a short period of time) until I messed with the settings on this, but thats for me, and I don't use e-manage.

My current:
Thr%: - 0.5
NE1 (1000) - 0.9
NE2 (2500) - 2.5
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Old 06-27-2004, 05:35 PM   #13
munkis
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ive tried all different ones.

right now its at what was when I got the car...

Thr: 1.0
NE1 1000 RPM 12%
NE2 2500 RPM 14%

If I go to low on the NE points the car will stall while im adjusting it.

SAFC settings
Lo Throttle 20%
1000 -40
2500 -40
3500 -30
4500 -22
5000 -10
5500 -2
6000 +4
6500 +8

Hi Throttle 50%
1000 -42
2500 -33
3500 -20
4500 -14
5000 0
5500 +8
6000 +12
6500 +16
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Old 06-27-2004, 05:41 PM   #14
munkis
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hitokiri
i would put money on the vac leak.

thats what mine was. build the tester that I described!

pm me if you want a better description

Todd
Dont you think the vacuum gauge would fluctuate if I had a vacuum leak?

Its defintly fuel related. because it wont restart unless I hold the pedel to the floor to shut the injectors off, and then it puffs some nice black/grey smoke.

If there was a vacuum leak Im sure I would be getting lean codes, or no idle at all, or atlease a rolling idle, fuel trims are fine.

I do agree that a vacuum leak would cause a similar problem but I dont think its causing mine, but ill look into it again.

thanks

Jay
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Old 06-27-2004, 06:11 PM   #15
STi-Nismo Dood
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wow, those decel-air settings are unusually high... but yeah, the SAFC unit will stall on me too when I reduce the settings while the car is on. I have never heard of anyone set their NE1% all the way up to 12%! The highest I have heard on an MY98 RS is 1.6-1.7%. And most people have their Ne2 at about 2.5% also but NE2 shouldn't matter. Try to reset your ECU / disconnect battery too if you are planning on lowering down those decel-air values. Good luck on the SAFC tune and stall issue though... my injectors are 360CC from the legacy turbo so its pretty similar to yours.

-Vic

Again, here is what I have mine set at from the advise of other SAFC users w/ their AFI subies:

Thr%: 0.5%
NE1%:0.9%
NE2%:2.5%

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=336606
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...light=safc+ne3
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Old 06-27-2004, 06:17 PM   #16
munkis
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Thanks Vic, im gonna try that out in the morning.

And Kotir thanks for that info on the other port, im gonna do that as well, its easy enough to do and if thats what greddy says to do, why not right?



i missed my last dyno tune appt do to this idle problem and a blowing out some exhaust gaskets (having to much fun) Hopefully they can squeeze me in this saturday

thanks again to everyone for all the suggestions, keep'em commin, and Ill post my results tomorrow with what i have gathered.

Jay
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Old 06-27-2004, 07:37 PM   #17
munkis
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Hey Vic, funny thing about the 2nd thread there you listed, where you are having discussions with TR

I have his car now hehe

Jay
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:03 PM   #18
STi-Nismo Dood
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oh haha, nice! That is funny!

Hope you get that stall issue addressed sooner or later! Happy boostin'.

Cheers,
-Vic
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:26 PM   #19
munkis
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Quote:
Originally posted by STi-Nismo Dood
oh haha, nice! That is funny!

Hope you get that stall issue addressed sooner or later! Happy boostin'.

Cheers,
-Vic

I bumped that other thread where benson helped you with your settings, it helped me as well, just playing with the settings a bit tonight stopped the stalling for now so thanks again!

Jay
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Old 06-28-2004, 09:22 AM   #20
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pressurize your intake!!!! please!!! do it for my sanitys sake.

you might have just bandaided the true problem!

my car idled FINE. but studdered on WOT with boost. with good rich AFRs! (LM1 logged)

see this for a better idea of what you AFC is doing: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...nage+injectors

you might want to set your J&S higher in static pull.

if you come up to andover for my install I'll do it for you: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ht=Boston+swap

good luck and congrats in mostly figuring it out!!
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Old 06-28-2004, 07:24 PM   #21
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hehe, Boston is about 4 hours away from me.

there are only two silcoln conectors on my inake tube, and it has been off and on numerous times over the past couple of weeks.

if anything I woud suspect my intercooler leaking rather than the intake tube.

I see what vacuum leaks do all the time (lincoln/jaguar tech) I see the kind of drivability concerns they create, I really dont experience any symptoms of a vacuum leak.

I really dont have the time to do alot of work on my car. So for now its good. Im getting it dyno tuned soon.

Then I will really be able to see whats going.

When you say pressurize the intake, you mean put the cap on where the filter goes. and then pressurize it on the car? Simulating air flow then listen for leaks, yes?

My car never stutters on boost, hard pulls, it rockets to redline, the only problem i have is sky rocketing egts under WOT and full boost.

I think this is more of a timing concern, I cant control the timing with my J&S that im aware of, it only retards timing if there is knock.

Jay
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Old 07-01-2004, 07:57 PM   #22
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well you egt's will be hotter if you retard more timing.

so you are running stock timing????

thats probobly pretty high actually. Are you sure the J&S isn't retarding per degree of boost? J&S Ultras have that ability. If you have a untra it bight be doing it. That would make sense because it might be tuned to run about the right timing at your old boost level. If it pulls per degree of boost you might not be running enough timing ans heating up because of it.

Todd
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Old 07-01-2004, 11:25 PM   #23
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I have an old school J&S it never pulls timing...cept when I rev match for some reason..only in neutral, and only about 5 degrees.

All i have is an SAFC.

workin on EM though.

Jay
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