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Old 02-07-2001, 01:22 AM   #1
ac_gohan
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Member#: 1903
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Bay Area, I-Speed Tech
Vehicle:
2000 2.5 RS-T coupe
T3/04 Link'd 2 10 PSI

Post CE light problem please help me!


ok i just installed my N1 exhaust today, and my check engine light wont go away. My dad helped me install it and he was the one that installed the midpipe and i installed the muffler section. Im not sure if he touched the o2 sensor and i also did some other things to my car. I have larrys intake and i took off my airbox and clean my K&N air filter out. i washed it like normal and i over oiled it a little. It dripped a little but i let it sit for like 20 min. I placed it back in the air box and attached the intake. Iwas thingking maybe i should leave it to sit a little longer. So then i took it out and there was like little puddles of oil sitting in my air box. I was like oh no! Could that be it? I also wired up my a/f ratio gauge to the rear o2 sensor wire. Could the splice have and effect on the signal going to the ecu. I used one of those blue splice connectors that you snap on. when i installed the exhaust i used the sealant and the gaskets. I did everything right, and i have no idea what the problem could be. O yeah i have an afc so are the settings to the new exhaust system affecting itdue to the decrease in back pressure? well i am really confused and im scared i might be hurting my baby. Any suggestions and tips to help me out. I just want my impreza to be workig correctly. O yeah and i did do a ecu reset. When i started it the CE light just lit up again. Also when i was idleing after reseting the ecu the car stalled after 15 min. thats when i was scared. Well i dont know what to do. You pros out there have anything to say about this?
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Old 02-07-2001, 10:21 AM   #2
Necromancer
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Join Date: Oct 1999
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GC4 -> GGA -> GM6
Yeah, that's about right.

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Take it to your local Subaru dealer and have them read the code. That should tell you where to look -- most likely the O2 sensor (disconnected?) or MAF (uh-oh).

Apparently there is a way to read the code yourself, but I've never been able to get it to work: http://www.netspace.net.au/~glennw/ecu.htm
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Old 02-07-2001, 09:10 PM   #3
P.K. Motorsports
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Resetting the ECU does not clear CE lights. Can you rev over 3500? Is your car a '99, '00, or '01?
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Old 02-07-2001, 09:16 PM   #4
RimRockaz
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2000 GC6 ej20 swap
fast n furious pt III

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hello ac,

what year is your car? did the CE light go away? the reason i am asking is because i also bought an N1 catback recently and its still sitting in my garage waiting to be put on. i wonder if i will have the same problem that you are having. any tips and info will be a great help! thanks in advance..

cal
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Old 02-07-2001, 10:17 PM   #5
ac_gohan
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T3/04 Link'd 2 10 PSI

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yes i can rev over 3500 its just at idle that the tach rises and falls between 800 rpm and 600 rpm. cant explain the noise except like roooom roooooom rooom . It goes up then down up then down. My car is MY00. Anyone figure out the problem? When is the next install fest? maybe i can bring my car there and one of you guys can take a look at it. I just want the tach thing and CE light to go away then i will be happy.
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Old 02-07-2001, 10:30 PM   #6
RimRockaz
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2000 GC6 ej20 swap
fast n furious pt III

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hey bro,

where are you in san jose? i am in san jose during the weekdays. maybe we can meet up and see whats going on. morning/noon will be best for me..

out

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Old 02-07-2001, 11:19 PM   #7
Necromancer
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GC4 -> GGA -> GM6
Yeah, that's about right.

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By itself, just resetting the ECU usually won't clear a check engine light because the root cause hasn't been fixed. On the other hand, if you fix something, then you will need to reset the ECU in order to clear the check engine light. The normal "leave battery disconnected for 5 minutes, reconnect, start car" sequence doesn't work -- I had to leave mine off overnight to really give the ECU a good reset.

Anyway, ac, did you try the DIY diagnostic procedure?
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Old 02-08-2001, 10:48 AM   #8
Kissifur
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hi,
i dont know anything about the afc and all that but i do have an n1 exhaust and have had no problems whatsoever. dont know if that helps at all or not.
Kier
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Old 02-08-2001, 03:16 PM   #9
P.K. Motorsports
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1999 RS
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Necromancer - you are not right. CE codes are stored in the same fashion as your odometer reading and are not cleared with ECU resets. I determined this after an investigation when I had a CE on my RS. In order to remedy most CE lights the problem must be remedied AND the ECU must do a self-diagnostic. This may or may not be forced by an ECU reset, but the moral of the story is that if an ECU reset doesn't make your CE light go away it's not a cause for concern and doesn't even mean anything's actually wrong with your car. I've had CE lights spontaneously disappear whilst driving, no ECU reset required. A very few CE codes can ONLY be cleared with the Select Tool, and no amount of fixing the problem or resetting the ECU will help.

By the way, the disconnect-battery routine DOES work. If you have an O<sub>2</sub> sensor voltage meter you can clearly see whether or not the ECU has been reset, and let me assure you that disconnecting the battery has always done it, and it doesn't take half an hour either. It is the pulling fuses method which is unreliable.

AC - The exhaust has nothing to do with it - nothing behind the cat can generate an engine code. Cleaning and oiling the filter most likely does not have anything to do with it (your PCV system spews oil into the intake all the time). Installing the O<sub>2</sub> voltage meter MIGHT have something to do with it, but that can be verified by seeing if your car is stuck in open loop: what kind of numbers is the meter giving you when you drive around? Do they constantly gyrate between 0 and 1 or are they steady? Also, have you reset your AFC to all zeros yet? If not, what settings do you run? It will probably be easier to diagnose the problem if you at least set the low-throttle settings to 0% across the board (and reset the ECU with a fresh tank of fuel on the new settings, because while resetting the ECU doesn't clear codes it DOES affect the fuel and spark map learning process).

Since you do not have a limp-home CE light you probably don't have much to worry about - non-limp home codes are the lest severe and I predict that your problem will resolve itself. However, if it does not resolve after a tank of fuel, I would get the code pulled.

Good luck... let us know.
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Old 02-08-2001, 04:21 PM   #10
Necromancer
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GC4 -> GGA -> GM6
Yeah, that's about right.

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PK -- it's possible that the ECU has been revised between your year and mine, so please don't be so quick to say somebody is "not right". Disconnect the rear wiring harness at the passenger footwell connector and turn key to ON. The ECU will throw lots of trouble codes and CE light will stay on after you reconnect the harness. Now reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery -- did the CE light go away? It did on my car.

BTW cool subscripts, most of us are lazy and just write O2.

Honestly I couldn't understand the rest of your posting, so I shall bow out of this debate now.
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Old 02-08-2001, 09:01 PM   #11
P.K. Motorsports
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Some codes are immediately clearable because replacing the input prompts a diagnostic. You don't have to pull the whole plug, just disconnect the speed sensor wire. The engine is fine and all the ECU cannot see is the vehicle speed, seemingly minor. Yet this throws you into limp-home immediately and it persists until you plug it back in. On the other hand, not every code is like that. A bad O<sub>2</sub> sensor produces a pesky code which can cut in and out, depending on how the sensor is doing when the ECU performs a reset. A reset doesn't do anything (trust me on this one, I tried many times). If you get a severe misfire the code lodges in your ECU and no amount of resetting will clear it. Playing with the TPS excessively can also trigger a code which can't be cleared with ECU resets, as some owners had the misfortune to discover. If the diagnostic which is initated by a reset learns from a component then a reset will clear the code associated with failure of that component, for example you plug in a new MAF and reset the ECU and it's as if nothing was ever wrong.

We just don't know yet what AC has, but we do know that he's not in limp-home, which is good. And also, your ECU works the same way mine does unless you have a pre-'97.

AC - what's the skinny on the code?
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Old 02-08-2001, 11:56 PM   #12
ac_gohan
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T3/04 Link'd 2 10 PSI

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wow thanx for all the help guys. But i still didnt get the code figured out. I dont know how to do it. If i bring it to a place in the bay area wont they cahrge like 30 bucks or something like that? Is there anyway to find out the code without having it done at a shop or something? Yes i will set all my afc settings back to zero and see at idle whats up. Im just wondering why my idle is so unsettled. When the rpm dips really low i feel the car almost stall. This is when im at a full stop and i tap the gas and let go. when the tach goes back to idle rpms it dips really low almost to 300 rpm. thats when the car shakes a little and bellows a low hum.

I am in San Jose if anyone would like to help me diagnose the problem i would be very greatful. Its not really of getting the check engine light to go away i just want to fix my idle and then the CE to go away. I was just wondering if it could be a misfire problem and how to fix that. gives me the chills when i think of that. Yeah, so if anyone can drop by my house or meet me somewhere or something to help me figure out whats wrong and correct it i would be very greatful. Thanx guys
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Old 02-09-2001, 12:09 AM   #13
ac_gohan
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2000 2.5 RS-T coupe
T3/04 Link'd 2 10 PSI

Post



my afc settings are the following:
low throttle
1000 - +1%
2000 - +1%
3 - 0%
4 - 0%
5 - 0%
6 - 0%

i didnt touch any fuel settings above 2000 rpm. i asked my dad what could be wrong and he said the engine might not be recieving enough fuel at idle. Is that possible, the exhaust gases exit faster due to the larger diameter mid pipe? i dont know just a hunch. but probably not if its missfire then damn me. Could a bad splice of an o2 sensor wire really affect the mechanical operation of the engine? All of you guys what do each of you think the problem is from the symptoms i have described. Hey if anyone wants to help me out at my place or something please tell me. Thanx again
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Old 02-09-2001, 11:58 PM   #14
ac_gohan
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T3/04 Link'd 2 10 PSI

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Well i filled up today and the symptoms are still the same. but it doesnt seem to be as worse. Any other sugestions guys? If anyone wants to help he look at my car later this week or somthing please tell me. Well the weather for now is horible.
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Old 02-10-2001, 07:04 PM   #15
P.K. Motorsports
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1999 RS
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AC - I've driven around with ridiculously large midpipes and all kinds of half-assed exhausts and I have yet to get a CE light from anything that did not involve messing with a catalytic converter. The midpipe ain't it. The O<sub>2</sub> sensor can indeed affect the mechanical operation of the engine. In order to help you we need to know what your meter is showing you and we need to know what the code is.
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Old 02-10-2001, 10:56 PM   #16
ac_gohan
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2000 2.5 RS-T coupe
T3/04 Link'd 2 10 PSI

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No need guys! =) I filled up yesterday and today after i got off work i started my car and vwa la! The CE light was gone. I guess it was just the gas that was in the tank at the time. I always fill up with cheveron. But no its gone and the idle has been corrected. I have no idea how but the only thing that matters is that it is gone. thanx for all your helps guys. this is what the i-club is for helping eachother out. I cant express my graditute any further thanx once again.

Andy Chu
MY00 Aspen White RS
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