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Old 03-09-2007, 12:44 AM   #1
mountainhigh
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Default is this a timing belt or rod issue?

Ok so i have been driving alot latly and over the past few weeks i have began to notice a wierd ticking noise when i accelerated my car, it got worse and worse and well today when i was trying to leave town my car turned off at the stop light. I turned it back on to notice a loud grinding noise with smoke coming from the engine bay. I turned it back on to get out of the road and parked it. When the tow truck driver arived(friend of mine) he listened to the noise and we decided it is coming from the front to the engine bay. All belts are spinning and the ac and alternator dont seemed to be siezed, so what in the world is my problem. My timing belt was replaced 20,000 miles ago and i just replaced my oil yesterday. I am begging to think it is a timing belt tensior and at worst a thrown bearing. Need some help on this with those that have had something similar like this happen to them. My engine is an ej25na with 124,000 miles and oil changed every 2,500 miles. Also thinking of it i dont know if it could be an exhaust related problem but i am running 2.25 from the cat-back and still a stock cat and stock headers, so dont know if that would triggered anything serious.
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:45 PM   #2
DustinG
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It's likely that it is a wrist pin issue. My EJ18 is suffering from simillar symptoms and that has been the diagnosis. I originally thought is was a timing belt tensioner as well, but there ended up being no problems there. I've been told that its not an uncommon problem among the EJ motors.
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Old 03-09-2007, 05:52 PM   #3
mountainhigh
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Default found out what it was

so i got a call from the dealership today and it was the timing belt ten. it broke free and actually burnt a hole in the cover so i got extremely lucky that nothing worse happened.
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Old 03-09-2007, 06:51 PM   #4
Mike1967
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Originally Posted by mountainhigh View Post
Ok so i have been driving alot latly and over the past few weeks i have began to notice a wierd ticking noise when i accelerated my car, it got worse and worse and well today when i was trying to leave town my car turned off at the stop light. I turned it back on to notice a loud grinding noise with smoke coming from the engine bay. I turned it back on to get out of the road and parked it. When the tow truck driver arived(friend of mine) he listened to the noise and we decided it is coming from the front to the engine bay. All belts are spinning and the ac and alternator dont seemed to be siezed, so what in the world is my problem. My timing belt was replaced 20,000 miles ago and i just replaced my oil yesterday. I am begging to think it is a timing belt tensior and at worst a thrown bearing. Need some help on this with those that have had something similar like this happen to them. My engine is an ej25na with 124,000 miles and oil changed every 2,500 miles. Also thinking of it i dont know if it could be an exhaust related problem but i am running 2.25 from the cat-back and still a stock cat and stock headers, so dont know if that would triggered anything serious.
Could also possibly be a valve. If the timing was not set correctly then could be causing some clearance issues with 1 or more valves. Could get worse with time which would explain why you are only hearing it 20,000 miles later?

If the valve has become bent from contact with the piston....then that could explain both the smoke and the noise.

I would do a leak down/pressure test on each cylinder to test if the cylinders are holding compression.. This is somthing you can do yourself.

Go to a local auto parts store and ask for a compression tester. It is basically an air hose with a pressure gauge on one end and a spark plug screw in adapter on the other.

Take out of one of your spark plugs and screw in the connect. Fire up the engine and measure the pressure build up in the cylinder. Then turn the engine off and see if the pressure maintains...or if the needle falls. If the needle falls then you have a leak in the cylinder...most probably a bent valve that is not seating all the way. Repeat this process for each cylinder...making sure to replace the spark plug in the cylinder that you just tested.

I do not remember what the pressure range should be on the cylinders....but you can probably search it our here...or get a chiltons manual which should have it. Or...just check each cylinder and if one of them is different than the rest (like that old Sesame street song) then you know it is the culprit....or if they are all holding pressure at the same range...then you know that this is not the issue.
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Old 03-10-2007, 02:26 AM   #5
austenf740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1967 View Post
Then turn the engine off and see if the pressure maintains...or if the needle falls. If the needle falls then you have a leak in the cylinder...most probably a bent valve that is not seating all the way. Repeat this process for each cylinder...making sure to replace the spark plug in the cylinder that you just tested.
I thought that a compression tester operated with a one way valve sort of thing and you just check to see which cylinder is low. Like if you have 3 cylinders at 130 and one at 100 then you know which one is off. Atleast that is how i performed the test on my car. Also you dont want to fire up the engine and have it running with the compression tester in it.
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Old 03-10-2007, 03:44 AM   #6
DumbUglyDragon
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For the compression test, don't run the motor. Fuel and ignition should be disabled as well.
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:06 AM   #7
Mike1967
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:21 AM   #8
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is it too late to make a rod joke? good luck though!
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Old 03-10-2007, 10:23 AM   #9
Mike1967
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Originally Posted by austenf740 View Post
I thought that a compression tester operated with a one way valve sort of thing and you just check to see which cylinder is low. Like if you have 3 cylinders at 130 and one at 100 then you know which one is off. Atleast that is how i performed the test on my car. Also you dont want to fire up the engine and have it running with the compression tester in it.
You are correct....looks like I used one term to describe two things.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/compression.htm

HEre is a good writeup on a leakdown test. With the this adapter and an air compressor it looks like you can identify the source of the problem, if you have a compression issue.
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Old 03-10-2007, 09:05 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Mike1967 View Post
With the this adapter and an air compressor it looks like you can identify the source of the problem, if you have a compression issue.
The air compresser would be the engine so all you need is the adapter and the gauge.
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Old 03-11-2007, 11:10 AM   #11
Mike1967
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The air compresser would be the engine so all you need is the adapter and the gauge.
True....but the leakdown test does offer a couple of benefits.

(1) if your engine is out of the bay it is difficult to hand crank fast enough to build up enough pressure. i ran into this very problem yesterday during my rebuild project. I had the engine out and had just completed putting the engine back together....and I wanted to check my compression. I hand cranked with a cheater bar but was not able to crank fast enough to build up pressure. A leakdown test kit would have allowed me to pump pressure into the system.

(2) IF you have a compression leak, the leakdown test allows you to listen to where the air is escaping. IF you do a compression test and use the car as the air compressor...then you may not be able to analyze where the air is going since you have to crank the engine to build up pressure. Reason this is a problem is that you will not be able to hear where the air is escaping over the noise of the engine. And...if the air is escaping past the exhaust valves then you would obviously not hear the air through the tailpipe. The Leakdown test allows you to constantly feed air into cylinder chamber and listen for where it is escaping.

I tried to locate a loaner unit at my 4 local parts stores...none of them loaned them or sold them. Harbor Freight Tools does sell a unit for $ 55. I did not check Sears....but they may carry one. I saw a bunch on Ebay.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:51 AM   #12
mountainhigh
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alright thanks for the heads up on the compression tests, i got back yesterday morning after driving 17hrs straight to make up lost time to get back home, but after all that driving i started to hear a clicking noise again it is only noticable to me when i pass a car or barrier, but this time it sounds like a clicking from the rear of the car, i cant figure out what the heck is going on with my car, i seriously am getting fed up on it, these are the first problems ive had with my subaru in 20,000 miles, but im hoping this week i can get it into my mechanic and have him look over everything,( also if you ever want to know your car is going to get fixed right and on time go to tune-tech on pines road in spokane) dennis the owner is good friend of ours and honestly once something is fixed on our cars its fixed just a peace of word about spokane shops, anything need some help on the damn sound im hearing its starting to scare me for the timing belt set me back 700 bones.

ps- a little something extra also, so ive been driving with 195/60/150 tires and stock was 215/60/16 and started to notice on my long as trip that my speedo is way off like by 10mph i know it just probably the tire size and all but can this mean anything related to engine?
update ive just looked at a tire comparrison chart on what im running and i should be going over the speed limit not going under, this is wierd

Last edited by mountainhigh; 03-12-2007 at 05:22 AM. Reason: adding
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