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Old 08-02-2004, 08:28 PM   #1
Brian204
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1989 GL
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Default wheel noise

I have a wheel noise in my right rear wheel, but when i jack up the wheel and spin it, it makes no noise and there is very little freeplay in it. Its not quite a grinding sound, but isn't a real smooth sound, either. Any diagnoses?
89 GL Dual Range 4WD
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Old 08-03-2004, 01:13 AM   #2
Flowmastered87GL
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Try tightening the axle nut.

Pull the cotter pin and then get a big ol socket (like 32MM or something... its huge) and make sure its tight.

That was the problem on one of my 88 GL wagons (225K)
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Old 08-03-2004, 10:31 AM   #3
Aethyrial
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You say there is very little freeplay...but is it possible it could be the wheel bearings?
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Old 08-03-2004, 01:43 PM   #4
DerFahrer
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Old-school Subaru wheel bearings aren't permanently sealed like the new ones, they need to be re-greased every 30k or so. Maybe that's all it needs...
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Old 08-04-2004, 12:28 AM   #5
Flowmastered87GL
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They do?? I think my rears are original! (293,900 miles!)

Fronts are new sealed units though.
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Old 08-04-2004, 11:59 PM   #6
DerFahrer
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Not replaced, just repacked with grease...

At least that's what the oh-so-accurate Haynes manual says...
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Old 08-05-2004, 12:30 AM   #7
Flowmastered87GL
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Either way I havn't touched mine ever. I'm not trying to say its right to ignore your bearings, but I feel that most GL owners do ignore their rears.
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Old 08-06-2004, 01:28 PM   #8
bill123
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Default Rear Bearings

Be careful about that rear axle nut. Overtorquing can lead to failure.
The spec and procedure on mine is: torque to 30 ft. lbs (about half the recommended torque for a lug nut), then back it off a quarter turn, then hand tight. So these nuts really aren't supposed to be torqued down solid.
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Old 08-07-2004, 10:29 PM   #9
Brian204
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Update: I removed the wheel via the castle nut, greased up the spindle and on the wheel where it meets it...tried to further tighten the castle nut, although it was already very tight. Now the wheel has been silent for two days.

However, i noticed where the spindle meets the assembly on the wheel, there is no machine finish...it looks like its been hammered. So there must be some sort of movement/hitting between the two.

Feeling the other wheels in comparison, there is just a tad more freeplay in the wheel than the others...its hard to detect...however, i did seem to take about half the freeplay out by the things mentioned. Perhaps the bearing is on its way out?

At least, for now, its silent.
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:41 PM   #10
sepharad
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Default wheel bearing tutorial?

Anyone Know of a wheel bearing tutorial for a GL? I am a total noob and think the grindy/rotational sound from my front end may be a wheel bearing.

I am big on pictures with short sentences.

Seph
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Old 06-07-2007, 02:08 PM   #11
synik
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The unmachined part could simply be rough cast metal where no machining was needed.
Make sure your wheel hube is not getting hot which would be an indication that the bearing is now too tight.
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Old 06-16-2007, 06:42 PM   #12
bgd73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subyluvr2212 View Post
Old-school Subaru wheel bearings aren't permanently sealed like the new ones, they need to be re-greased every 30k or so. Maybe that's all it needs...
They are very sealed... in fact old school is my fav. I am still laughing once and awhile at the 3/4 ton pickup and subaru axle compared (I tore into a 89 gmc 3/4 ton and got a look around- the 87 subaru is bigger)

subaru oem grease is a tragedy- even that problem goes into the newer ones. I am still on 20 year old seals and driving through deep puddles. Regrease/pack with the best you can get recommended, there is lots of choices. My latest repacking was trailer wheel grease that was resistant to salt and corrosion (boat trailer- heavy duty).I forgot my valvoline synthetic. Once that is done, you may even notice more power and fuel savings if it was real badly packed. I am on my third old sube and at least half a dozen axle changes- none of them by subarus standard had anything worth a lick for grease. the original crappy grade wax looking stuff that dissipated in what must have been the old subes first hundred feet 20 years ago- and most are still running, hot as heck and bending hubs /rotors- eating axles but turning sealed.
That is my number one chore, aside from exhaust- the bad grease I know is lurking sometimes (most of the time). after repacking I went 60k on a 2wd bouncing the axle all over the place (somer may know what I mean with a 2wd) and it never needed an axle- I am certain it was the step away from subaru grease into better.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:10 PM   #13
noisycricket
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by bill123 View Post
Be careful about that rear axle nut. Overtorquing can lead to failure.
The spec and procedure on mine is: torque to 30 ft. lbs (about half the recommended torque for a lug nut), then back it off a quarter turn, then hand tight. So these nuts really aren't supposed to be torqued down solid.
I would just like to point out that, for a 4WD model, this is incredibly wrong! The rear drums spline onto the axle similar to the fronts.

The torque spec is something outrageously high, like 200lb-ft or something. The 3 second IR234 method always worked for me, though
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:37 PM   #14
TurboneX
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Tightening torque for 2wd rear axle nut is 36 ft-lbs.
4wd is 145ft-lbs.
FSM says that after tightening to specified torque(4wd) tighten further within 30deg to align holes on nut and spindle for cotter pin install.
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Old 06-23-2007, 09:36 AM   #15
faithless88
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Default

What about all 4 wheels sounding like their filled with rocks in the tread. I have checked the threads, pressure, going to balance this coming week. Anyone have an idea on what it could be?
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