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Old 10-29-2004, 10:57 PM   #126
UrbanImport
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If anyone got the wrong rates please and the rate they recieved does not work for them please call me and I will order you replacement springs. I believe the final count from this board was 7-8 buyers.
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Old 10-29-2004, 11:00 PM   #127
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afpdl
Some things Ive noticed. They come with 4 brackets to hold the brake lines but nothing to hold the abs lines at the front. The brackets will not allow a stock style install of the front brake lines you will have to bend the bracket or get to zip tying.

The front and rear springs are not the same lenght as I was told, and the springs that come on the coilovers do not have anything on them to identify their rates.
The brackets are designed to be bent, that is why they are thinner metal. The front and rear springs are interchangeable, if the rates are different they might be slightly different lengths but can still be interchanged.
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Old 10-29-2004, 11:37 PM   #128
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thanks for the info now I wont be worried about bending things or get pissed when I first see that they need to be bent.
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Old 10-30-2004, 05:12 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanImport
The brackets are designed to be bent, that is why they are thinner metal.
My issue wasnt the bending it was there are only 4 brackets but there are 6 things to hold.
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Old 10-30-2004, 06:38 AM   #130
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mike, could u PM my tracking #. still haven't arrived
Jon C.
11040
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Old 10-30-2004, 03:12 PM   #131
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im pretty sure my springs are different rates. both the fronts and rears have the same spacing between coils but the front coils are significantly thicker.
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Old 10-30-2004, 10:00 PM   #132
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The special pricing we have been offering to the board memebers was an introductory offer to get the name out to the Subaru community. We have had an overwhelming response from both consumers and dealers. Next week during the SEMA show we will be pushing D2 to many large distributors and will soon start a full internet and magazine advertising campaign. Due to rising manufacturing costs, the cost of advertising and to make pricing fair for our distributors (the introductory price was BELOW wholesale). MSRP on the Imprezza/WRX applications with front and rear camber plates will be set at $1575. Our selling price will be set at 15% off retail with free shipping ($1335).

We will be closed all next week due to the SEMA show but I will be checking my email, feel free to email me (michael@urbanimport.com) with any questions. Thank you for your support.
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Old 10-30-2004, 10:05 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afpdl
My issue wasnt the bending it was there are only 4 brackets but there are 6 things to hold.
I will look into this and see what I can find for you.
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:55 PM   #134
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I got mine yesterday, and installed them right away. It took me a total of almost 5hours. I would say that the rears are the hardest to do. The issue of the brakelines is correct, you need a total of 6 brackets, and I too was only given 4 brackets.

My overall impression of the coilovers is 2 thumbs up. They are very beautiful, light weight, and appear to be very reliable, I never thought Taiwanese stuff could be so good LoL. My handling is much more responsive, their is alot less to no body roll, and my car just looks sick the way it is.

It was funny the jack got stuck under the car when I dropped it back down, so I had to put some bricks under the tires so that I would have clearance.
I didn't think I would make it down my driveway, but I cleared it by like 1/2" an inch.

I took some pics, I'll try to post them later.


William M.
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:59 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReX_N
I got mine yesterday, and installed them right away. It took me a total of almost 5hours. I would say that the rears are the hardest to do.
William M.
Ive only done the rears so far and it only took about an hour what did you find hard to do?
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Old 11-03-2004, 03:24 PM   #136
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Question Spring rate markings

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. m
im pretty sure my springs are different rates. both the fronts and rears have the same spacing between coils but the front coils are significantly thicker.
Michael;

Can you help us out here? How can we determine/confirm the spring ratings? As they are shipped, it looks pretty obvious as to which assembly goes where (FWD vs RR), but I'm curious if D2's spring mfg identifies the coils in anyway. ...by the way, who does D2 source their springs from? I assume D2 warrants any spring failure as part of the assembly (not that I expect any problems, the quality looks great!).
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Old 11-03-2004, 06:24 PM   #137
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Recieved mine today! They are great and sweet looking! Cant wait to put them on.


Jon
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Old 11-03-2004, 09:38 PM   #138
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Got mine yesterday, quality looks great.

Unfortunately UPS delivered with holes in the box and there were washers and capscrews loose in the box.

I've emailed Mike to make him aware I was missing three washers and a capscrew which likely fell out one of the holes during transit. Hopefully he'll send the pieces soon after returning from SEMA so I get these babies installed.
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:40 AM   #139
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by afpdl
Ive only done the rears so far and it only took about an hour what did you find hard to do?
Well for the rears, I first mounted the coilovers from the strut mount, measured the overall distance from the center of the hub to the fender to make sure I had enough space. I did that to both sides to make sure it was even. After that I tried to jack up the the axels so that it was even with the brackets. When I did this, the strut brackets and the axel brackets did not line up exactly, no matter how hard I tried to push, pull, pivot, rotate, it all would not work. So after that I disconnected them from the strut mounts, and mounted them directly to the axel brackets. Doing this wasn't to hard on the right side, but on the left with the axel all the way down with out any support from the jack, I was stuggling, I couldn't get the axel to slide into the strut bracket. The top hat kept hitting portions of the wheel well not allowing me to get a good angle. I had to have somebody push down on the axel while i tried to line it up. After I finally got the coilovers mounted to the axel's, I had to jack up each one and attempt to line up the top hats with the strut mount, and that took some pushing, and pivoting to get them lined up correctly.

I may have exagerated a little w/ the 5 hours, because I did include cleaning the area of the garage to bring the car in and jack it up on all fours. Then there was road testing for at least 20mins when we finished. And finally I still had to clean the mess I made in the garage, tools everywhere, air compressor out and about, and the excess stuff I had to rumage through to get to the tools. Oh and another problem I ran into was that the air compressor's hose was leaking from the connection to the impact gun, so I wasn't getting all the power that I should have been from the gun. So I had to locate another hose fitting and that took some rummaging also.

So I guess you could say the install, from putting the car up and back down, minus the air compressor problem, was probably like 3 hours.

William M.
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:56 AM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albert
Got mine yesterday, quality looks great.

Unfortunately UPS delivered with holes in the box and there were washers and capscrews loose in the box.

I've emailed Mike to make him aware I was missing three washers and a capscrew which likely fell out one of the holes during transit. Hopefully he'll send the pieces soon after returning from SEMA so I get these babies installed.

Washers and cap screws? I didn't get any of those, all I had were the dampining allan wrenches and adjustment markers, the spaner wrenches and the brake line brackets in a bag. I am assuming you are speaking of the allan screws and washers that are needed for the adjustment of the camber angle.

William M.
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Old 11-04-2004, 11:20 AM   #141
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To those who have installed their coilovers already I've got a question. For the adjustment of the dampening how do you increase/stiffen the dampening? Is it screwing in the knob, shown by the H - L, because if it is, I find that it is rather odd, because if you do it that way, you would go opposite of the markings on the caps. You would go from 6 to 1. Can anyone else confirm this.

Thanks,
William M.
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Old 11-04-2004, 02:34 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReX_N
Well for the rears, I first mounted the coilovers from the strut mount, measured the overall distance from the center of the hub to the fender to make sure I had enough space.
William M.
Whoa, Ive only done coilovers on various imprezas but for future refereance.
Set the ride height of your coilovers, bolt up the strut top hat to the chassis and then slide the knuckle in the strut bracket. It makes it way way way easier. I had to do one side by jacking up the axel and thats why it took 2 hours for just the rear.

Also the way the rear camber plates come they will not fit in the strut holes, you have to move the allen screws inward.
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Old 11-04-2004, 04:16 PM   #143
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i have to give mad props to Mike/Urban Imports. He botched my order by taking my info, charging my AmEx, and then forgot to put it thru w/ D2. i sent him info on saturday, he PM'd me back the same day saying he put my order in w/ D2.

Yesterday they showed up at my doorstep. from Taiwan! they look gr8. i won't be putting them in until april, but i would also like to know how to confirm spring rates, as i order a softer than normal set for NYC roads.

Hope these coilovers continue to surpass my expectations.
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Old 11-04-2004, 04:18 PM   #144
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Mike - is this introductory price still available? Poor college students that just got their RS in the summer are in need of hookin up. Cmon man - would make a hell of a christmas gift for me - err Thanksgiving. I can barely afford the original price, however, that 1500 or so is wayyy too steep.

Tis (almost) the season

Rudy

I can promote the hell out of these, i go to a ton of meets around me in the Chitown. We've got a pretty good sub representation. And if they make them for Evos im also friends with plenty of EvoFolk. Who knows?
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Old 11-04-2004, 10:43 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReX_N
...I am assuming you are speaking of the allan screws and washers that are needed for the adjustment of the camber angle.
William M.
Yes, that's it. Both of the rear camber plates had completlely vibrated off. I also removed the cardboard partitions in hope of finding the other pieces but no luck.
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Old 11-05-2004, 02:44 PM   #146
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Maybe everybody who ordered these could post up some of their expericences that they have had with them thus far. I have never installed or worked with coilovers, but I have done suspensions on subies more times than I can possibly count. They will be going on a 1998 impreza L that will be primarily a track driven car. I went with the standard 8/6 combo, but I may uprate the springs a bit more once I start using slicks. Anywho, where is the ride hight supposed to be adjusted? Is it done with the spring perch or the strut bracket? I am guessing that it is done with the strut bracket. When we adjust the spring perch, how much pre-load should be put on? How is the dampening done? I have yet to install these, so any tips would be great....keep it coming.

Later,
Seth E.
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Old 11-05-2004, 06:18 PM   #147
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rotate down the flanges that attach to the hub, then rotate down the lower 'lock' ring. i don't know about preloading the sprins. from what i read on the included papers, it seems as they don't want to be excessivley preloaded. maybe the perch should be in contact and then the perch tightened one revolution?
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Old 11-05-2004, 07:54 PM   #148
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Lightbulb Pre-load and ride height

While it's been a few years since I have worked on a car with coilovers, I have helped set up a few serious cars (think ALMS). The best way to establish pre-load is to install them on the car and then weight balance the car using a scale system from a company like Longacre Racing (pretty expensive). Weight balancing is the process of equalizing the weight of the vehicle on each of the tires. Any good race shop should be able to help you with this, if you don't mind paying the race shop hourly rate. Once the weight balancing is done (on a cool set of coilovers like this) then the ride height can be set (because these have the separate adjustment). This way the car's ride height can be set to look level as opposed to being crooked. If your going to mostly tracking the car, or doing any serious track events, I would suggest that you spend the time and money and set up the car this way.

The other way that I can think of - for anybody just trying to get by - would be to find the center point on the strut rod (half way between full compression and full droop). Then install the spring (just snug with the mounts), mark/measure the relative height of the assembly, then install them on the car. Of course you will want to have all the ride heights set the same for front or rear, so the LH rear is the same height initially as the RH rear, etc. Once installed on the car, lower the vehicle to the ground, drive it around the block (to get things to settle), then remeasure the the relative assembly height. Here you are checking to see how far the rod is from its center point. The objective behind the dual spring perch/ride height adjustment is to keep the piston rod in the center of its stroke under nominal conditions. If the rod has settled on way or the other, adjust the spring preload to compensate. Once this is done, you can adjust your ride height.

Now, having said all that, I won't be doing this until the spring, since it is now time to change back to winter tires. Please let me know - if you try this - if you run into any issues. Perhaps, we can rewrite the procedure.
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Old 11-05-2004, 10:14 PM   #149
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The above is not correct for the D2 coilovers. Spring preload should not be adjusted up or down by the spring perches. You want a correct preload on the springs. The first thing to do would be to install the coilovers as they are, drop the car back to the ground. This will allow the springs to seat on the nylon bushings that come on the D2 spring perches. Measure the distance from wheel center to the center of the wheel well at each corner, and write it down. You will also probably want to factor in that there was probably 1/4 inch of sag between the spring and perch when you dropped it this time. Raise the car back up, then adjust the spring perches to sit flush against the spring without compressing it, or without any sag between the spring and perch. Then adjust the lower bracket height all the way around to reflect your desired ride height. Don't forget to factor in the difference between the first measurement where the springs had a small amount of gap between them and the perches, and the new measurement where the gap will be gone.

If I weren't currently waiting for a gearset to arrive, these would already be on my car and I could give an opinion. As it stands I am already very impressed with them over the current JICs, and over some of the other brands of coilovers I have sold at work. The quality of the machining of the parts is the best I have seen from any of the Japanese manufacturers, and the struts themselves seem to have more rebound damping in the valving than the other JDM brands I sell, but I won't be able to tell that for certain until I either get one of the inserts on a shock dyno, or do some serious testing on the car.
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Old 11-06-2004, 01:46 PM   #150
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do the threads have a coating over them to prevent rust or are they just black?
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