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Old 11-06-2004, 01:54 PM   #151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matz73z
Weight balancing is the process of equalizing the weight of the vehicle on each of the tires. Any good race shop should be able to help you with this, if you don't mind paying the race shop hourly rate. Once the weight balancing is done (on a cool set of coilovers like this) then the ride height can be set (because these have the separate adjustment). This way the car's ride height can be set to look level as opposed to being crooked.
That makes no sense at all for any car with any coilovers. Once you corner weight it useing the spring perches if you adjust the ride height afterwards you will throw the weight balance off negating all the stuff you just did.
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Old 11-08-2004, 12:55 PM   #152
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Old 11-08-2004, 12:57 PM   #153
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do the threads have a coating over them to prevent rust or are they just black?
Yeah they are coated.
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Old 11-08-2004, 02:23 PM   #154
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Used them in a autox yesterday, the only issues I was having is I kept lifting the inside rear, but that is not entirely the coilovers fault. If you rotate the front plates you can get almost 7 degrees of caster on the front of an sti and still manage over -4 degrees of camber. So far Im very pleased with them other then the lack of an abs line bracket, and that I recieved the wrong spring rates.
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:30 PM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afpdl
the only issues I was having is I kept lifting the inside rear, but that is not entirely the coilovers fault.
these coilovers do have a lot less travel than the stock pieces. im sure thats normal for most coilovers though.
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:32 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afpdl
So far Im very pleased with them other then the lack of an abs line bracket
michael, did you find out anything about this. im assuming theyre not an included item since nobody seems to have gotten them but are they doing anything about it?
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Old 11-09-2004, 04:42 PM   #157
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how far down the strut shaft can the strut mount be set? im worried about screwing it too far down and the mount breaking. ill try to clarify later when i have more time but use urbanimports picture for reference.
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Old 11-09-2004, 07:14 PM   #158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr. m
these coilovers do have a lot less travel than the stock pieces. im sure thats normal for most coilovers though.
Im well aware of that, my previous suspension was jic coilovers with 7/5k rates and there is alot more wheel lift apparent in the d2s that Im going to have to tune out.
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Old 11-09-2004, 10:34 PM   #159
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For the preload thing is the pre load already set where it should be when they arrived to me or do I need to tighten them up some? The ride seems almost bouncy I expected it to be somewhat rough but not in the way that they are currently riding. Also any one puting these on their rs did you have any problems with fitment in the rear having very little to no room for adjusting the camber?
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Old 11-09-2004, 11:28 PM   #160
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You drop the car then raise it up and just snug up the spring perch to meet the rubber bushing on the spring. As for camber adjustment you can move the allen screws inwards to give you more adjustment.

I havent found these to be bouncy at all, they are firm but havent felt any bouncyness.
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:13 AM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by afpdl
Im well aware of that, my previous suspension was jic coilovers with 7/5k rates and there is alot more wheel lift apparent in the d2s that Im going to have to tune out.

This is also possibly due to the fact that the D2s apparently have stiffer rebound damping than the JICs. We got two sets in, one was for the dealership sponsored car and was requested with extra rebound damping valved in. The other set was ordered to sell and had street rates and regular valving. Both sets have visibly higher rebound damping than the extra JIC struts I have lying around. So, when you lift a strut, it will take the suspension longer to extend fully than with the JICs since the JICs have ridiculously little rebound damping. This is also the main reason for the infamous JIC bounce.
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Old 11-10-2004, 10:15 AM   #162
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Thats about what it feels like. I went up 100lbs all around and the ride got much better then the jics.
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Old 11-12-2004, 09:25 AM   #163
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what spring length does everybody have on the front?
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:40 PM   #164
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I was just wondering what spring rates everyone went with. I was thinking about 9kf/7kr. Or 8kf/7kr. I want a stiff sent up but still driveable. Roads arent too bad around me, unless i go into the city. But the idea behind the 8k/7k was that i want a stiff rear end to maybe be able to kick the rear out every now and again. But then again that could get me in some trouble. Tell me what you guys think about your or my setup plans.

Rudy
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:42 PM   #165
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The ride on 9/7 really isnt that bad. Its very firm but feels well matched to the struts, its not bouncy at all unless its a really big bump or pothole. But everyones idea of a decent ride is different.
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Old 11-16-2004, 12:49 AM   #166
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But i was thinking, since you have an sti and i have a 2000 RS, yours is a bit heavier. Making the 9/7 a bit more intense. But I guess i forgot to mention my car.
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Old 11-16-2004, 05:36 PM   #167
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How long will the deal last? I am VERY interested, but I am little short of cash. Maybe by mid December I will have enough.
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:11 PM   #168
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nm..

Last edited by afpdl; 11-16-2004 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 12-09-2004, 01:54 PM   #169
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So whos got updates on the coilovers? Anyone found some tricks to tuning them or anything? No problems? Just wanna know cause mine should be here in a few weeks. I'm driving a 00 RS if anyone has installation tips to make it easier on me. And i wanted to know for anyone who put them on themselves, did you then get the suspension aligned at a shop after installation?
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Old 12-18-2004, 03:02 PM   #170
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ok, wow, this looks like a great deal, so far it seems like everyone likes the coilovers. I was looking to get some soon. are the deals still available? I also autox, but on the d2 box it says for track racing cars only, is this just a slogan, or is this like something i should worry about, i drive my car on the street often, but i do go racing every month, and i do "spirited driving" alot, meaning all the time i am taking turns the way they should be taken .

will these coilovers be right for me, and is there a site i can look at that has all the info, like d2.com or something, and does the vendor have a site?
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Old 12-19-2004, 04:01 AM   #171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matz73z
While it's been a few years since I have worked on a car with coilovers, I have helped set up a few serious cars (think ALMS). The best way to establish pre-load is to install them on the car and then weight balance the car using a scale system from a company like Longacre Racing (pretty expensive). Weight balancing is the process of equalizing the weight of the vehicle on each of the tires. Any good race shop should be able to help you with this, if you don't mind paying the race shop hourly rate. Once the weight balancing is done (on a cool set of coilovers like this) then the ride height can be set (because these have the separate adjustment). This way the car's ride height can be set to look level as opposed to being crooked. If your going to mostly tracking the car, or doing any serious track events, I would suggest that you spend the time and money and set up the car this way.

The other way that I can think of - for anybody just trying to get by - would be to find the center point on the strut rod (half way between full compression and full droop). Then install the spring (just snug with the mounts), mark/measure the relative height of the assembly, then install them on the car. Of course you will want to have all the ride heights set the same for front or rear, so the LH rear is the same height initially as the RH rear, etc. Once installed on the car, lower the vehicle to the ground, drive it around the block (to get things to settle), then remeasure the the relative assembly height. Here you are checking to see how far the rod is from its center point. The objective behind the dual spring perch/ride height adjustment is to keep the piston rod in the center of its stroke under nominal conditions. If the rod has settled on way or the other, adjust the spring preload to compensate. Once this is done, you can adjust your ride height.

Now, having said all that, I won't be doing this until the spring, since it is now time to change back to winter tires. Please let me know - if you try this - if you run into any issues. Perhaps, we can rewrite the procedure.

Templar is correct, this is wrong. Back in the days before ride hight was adjustble seperate from preload, you would almost be right here. The problem is that what they were actually doing was shifting the weight of the car BY changing the ride hight. This is called cross weighting or corner weigting. Now that the two are seperate, preload can be set properly. For the most supple ride, just take out the slop between the spring and the perches.
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Old 12-20-2004, 05:43 PM   #172
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is this deal still avaliable?
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Old 12-20-2004, 06:44 PM   #173
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Am I the only one whose coilovers get noisy as hell in under 60 degree weather? Also Ive had the allen bolts that compress the lower strut body around the dampner loosen up all around the car, not really a big issue but its somthing to look out for.
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:07 PM   #174
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Yeah mine are super noisy especially when it is below 3o. I am pretty sure its because they have the metal pillow ball joint.
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:11 PM   #175
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Ive had 2 other coilovers all with pillowball joints and these are by far the noisiest.
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