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Old 09-04-2004, 05:52 PM   #1
linux>windows
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Default How the hell do you get the header bolts off

Ok, i was trying to figure out how to get the header bolts off, they're on there like cement, i am buying a new motor soon and want everything to go smoothly,
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:18 PM   #2
squeech
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From the engine manifold or the cat?

I had more trouble removing the bolts at the cat flange than from the engine. The manifold nuts were quite tight from the factory, but I was able to pull them off with a simple 14mm socket and a 6 inch extension, and then by hand after a few turns. The bolts themselves are studs in the engine, and don't come off (but I'm sure you knew that )

If anything, you should really only need some WD-40 if they are rusted on or something.
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Old 09-04-2004, 07:14 PM   #3
kay95
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i snapped my cat to mid pipe bolts
and had to grind two of my header studs
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Old 09-04-2004, 07:58 PM   #4
Defiantguy
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nothing a extension and a nice breaker bar couldn't handle.
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Old 09-04-2004, 09:29 PM   #5
Rokan211
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i gave up after about 30 seconds, lubed it up with some wd 40 and busted out an air wrench at my uncles gurage
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Old 09-04-2004, 10:34 PM   #6
rawrFERNY
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i removed the headers to the end of the cat and then i placed it on the ground, positioned a wrench so i could stomp on it, and that worked.... might take a little longer but its the easiest way.
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:31 PM   #7
Blue98leg
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yeah i had the same problem my solution involved a steady hand and a plasma cutter. good luck
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Old 09-04-2004, 11:34 PM   #8
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thanks
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Old 09-05-2004, 01:51 AM   #9
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use a socket wrench and put a crescent rench on the end so it forms and L and if the tools are good enough quality you can make enough torque to get them off.
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Old 09-07-2004, 02:39 PM   #10
Defiantguy
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its all about leverage people!
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:03 PM   #11
chip4761
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if your engine leaks enough oil, they come off real smooth
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Old 09-07-2004, 03:09 PM   #12
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I didn't realize this thread was still going. I'll throw in my 2 cents. Use some liquid wrench spray, let it sit for at least a few hours, then come back and try the bolts with a good breaker bar, at least 2 feet. You should be able to pick up a breaker bar with a 1/2" driver at your local auto parts store for a few bucks. I've noticed hardware stores tend to charge more.

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Old 09-07-2004, 04:11 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squeech
From the engine manifold or the cat?

I had more trouble removing the bolts at the cat flange than from the engine. The manifold nuts were quite tight from the factory, but I was able to pull them off with a simple 14mm socket and a 6 inch extension, and then by hand after a few turns. The bolts themselves are studs in the engine, and don't come off (but I'm sure you knew that )

If anything, you should really only need some WD-40 if they are rusted on or something.
Your statement about the studs is only half right. True, those studs are into the engine block, but they do come out. When I did my header all 6 studs came right out of the engine with the nuts still rusted in place. I ended up just replacing all 6 nuts and studs at the same time.
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Old 09-20-2004, 11:47 PM   #14
cjfike
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Get an electric impact wrench. You can find them cheap on the fly-by-night tool sites.
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Old 09-21-2004, 10:01 AM   #15
BlackAndBlue
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PB Blast4r is teh shiz
owns wd40 for takin off bolts
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Old 09-21-2004, 12:38 PM   #16
Jejunum
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hey what size is are the bolts and nuts that go at the engine manifold -> header junction? im missing one (should i be worried about driving like this?)
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Old 09-21-2004, 01:02 PM   #17
Slack
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Nuff said.


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Old 09-22-2004, 11:37 AM   #18
Reece
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couple months at the gym... if that doesn't work you can try steroids...
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