spark plug gap NGK Iridium plugs?

[SeaRex]

Hi,

What gap should I use for my stock WRX using NGK Iridium spark plugs--BKR6E-IX (stock heat range)?

Is it 0.030"?

Sean

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[seattle944t]

You shouldn't need to re-gap Iriduim plugs, they come with a different gap that is set for the application and the Iriduim electrode.
http://www.densoiridium.com/sparkplugspecs.php

EDIT: Forgot this link:
http://www.densoiridium.com/faq.php

[SeaRex]

NGK says (for 2002 WRXes, they don't list 2003s) that the OEM gap is 0.030. I assume it's good to stay right there then? http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1378773 and http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/apps/ca...60000&country=

Cheers,

Sean

[SeaRex]

Ran into trouble today ... found out there are 2 NGK Iridiums in the stock heat range, "BKR6EIX" and "wide-gap" "BKR6EIX-11."

Which should I use on a stock motor and what ought my gap be?

Thanks,

Sean

[Uncle Scotty]

Originally Posted by SeaRex

Ran into trouble today ... found out there are 2 NGK Iridiums in the stock heat range, "BKR6EIX" and "wide-gap" "BKR6EIX-11."

Which should I use on a stock motor and what ought my gap be?

Thanks,

Sean

The -11 is for NA applications....do NOT USE them in the WRX.

If you dedeide to up the boost, you may wish to go to a colder heat range plug---"xxx7xxx" plug and gapped a bit tighter....026"-.028".

Iridium plugs CAN be 'gapped', but extreme care must be used to accomplish it properly.

[SeaRex]

Thanks!

So if I use the non "-11" and a gap of 0.030, I should be fine, right? (I need brakes and tyres and still a knock sensor, so it looks like my plan for an Access Port is put off for another year.)

Cheers,

Sean

[Uncle Scotty]

Originally Posted by SeaRex

Thanks!

So if I use the non "-11" and a gap of 0.030, I should be fine, right?

Yes....although unless you have over 60k miles on the stock plugs, they should be good.

The plugs you get should be pre-gapped.....check them BUT....be VERY-VERY careful with the tip of the center electrode!!!!! the very end of the tip is ***EXTREMELY*** easy to break off!!! and/or the center electrode can be snapped off at the ceramic.....BAD JUJU!!!

..... ask me how I know these things .........

THIS is why it is NOT a good idea for someone to try to 'gap' iridium plugs unless you know the possible pitfalls and how to avoid them

[SeaRex]

Thanks!

My '03 WRX wagon has about 57,000 on it. Thanks for the advice! (Getting those Iridium NGK plugs isn't easy, btw.)

Cheers,

Sean

[SeaRex]

Okay, got the plugs. Hopefully will find time around soccer tomorrow to install them.

One question: the plugs have a washer on them. Am I correct in assuming I leave it on?

Cheers,

Sean

(P.S. I just got "approval" for Pirelli PZero Nero M+S tires and Hawk HPS pads!! I'll be calling TireRack Monday <very very big grin>.

[Uncle Scotty]

Yes, the washer is installed....15ft-lbs on the plugs .....and DON'T cross thread them

.....order the SS brake lines, too.....she'll never know

[SeaRex]

Hehe.

Am going to use anti-seize, should I go 10lbs on the plugs if I do?

I already have braided steel brake lines and superblue fluid <g>.

Cheers,

Sean

[Uncle Scotty]

If you use anti-seize, use it VERY sparingly....and DO NOT get ANY on anything but the threads.....do NOT use any anti-seize that contains graphite !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!

IMO, properly torqued plugs should not need anti-seize unless the vehicle is used where the roads are salted in the winter or if the vehicle is used in some sort of severe service/environment.

[SeaRex]

Almost. Then I gave up. I got everything out of the way in short order. Then, I got the driver-side electrodes out.

But, I never tackled the plugs.

The radiator-side plug on the driver side I could get to. The firewall-side plug would have been next to impossible. The plug hole is below the level of the shelf that the washer bottle sits on. I had two universal joints and adapters for my torque wrench, but there was no way I'd have been able to get in and out of that firewall-side plug hole, not and be confident of not cross-threading etc.

=8?(

Did Subaru install those when the engine was out of the bay?

Looks like I have to pay someone to install those. Sigh. The passenger side plugs seemed easier to access.

Everything went back fine, the whole remove and reinstall took an hour.

Cheers,

Sean

[Amazake]

sea rex

use a 3" extension and a small rachet

start with the socket facing you just past the slot for the plug ( ratchet towards glass ) and then turn the socket towards you and the hole for the plug you have to lift up a bit while turning to get it in there

then just give a nice squeeze to break it loose
once it is broken just remove ratchet leaving the socket on the plug and spin the plug out by hand

if you are worried about cross theading install the plug by hand

it will feel very unnatural if you are cross threading the plug

as far a torque just try to remmber how much forse it was to take themoff then attempt to replicate that.

if you went in CT I would gladly give you a hand

[SeaRex]

Thanks.

Part of the problem is that my torque wrench is 1/2-in drive, no way I'm getting that in there ... even with universal joints and extensions.

Thanks for the suggestion, though.

Cheers,

Sean