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Old 10-13-2004, 12:13 PM   #76
TubeDriver
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I had a couple of questions. How difficult is it to install the rear discs? Does the emergency brake still work? I currently have SS lines and speedbleeders on my 02 WRX, will these work with the 05 Turbo Legacy BBK front and rear? Thanks.
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Old 10-13-2004, 12:32 PM   #77
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Personally, I know the lines will work and the handbrake still works just fine (I had lines on my set.) There are also speed bleeders on the set of brakes I had. Remember, these are stock Subaru parts; nothing crazy. So yes, all of those things will work just fine.

I also just recently drove the Legacy GT at the Subaru Challenge in FL. People had been hammering on that thing non-stop for hours...and the brakes worked awesome; I was suprised as I nearly put myself through the windshield on their test course. This is definitely an upgrade I would recommend.
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Old 10-13-2004, 04:07 PM   #78
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If anyone does this mod and wants to ditch their old Legacy ('00-'04) rear caliper brackets (and rotors, for that matter), you just let me know. I accept PMs all day long.


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Old 10-17-2004, 09:46 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX Bamboo Steamer
Will the fronts fit with UK 17" wheels?
Yes, they will, without a problem.
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Old 10-17-2004, 06:02 PM   #80
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Lastly, when installing these on a WRX, do the rear rotors just pop on or do the hubs need to be pulled to get them on? Thanks.
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:21 PM   #81
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I believe that they just pop on.

As many times as I've had my brakes apart, only tool I've needed to get the rear's off is a rubber hammer.

-- Dave
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Old 10-18-2004, 09:50 AM   #82
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I didn't install the rears but they should just go right on (unless you have corrosion or other problems getting your stock stuff off.)
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Old 10-23-2004, 02:54 PM   #83
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will the bias be that bad if you just go with the front upgrade?
Is there anyway to get this rotor (fr) size slotted by an aftermarket dist?
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:17 PM   #84
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I didn't think the bias was that bad at all in the test car. Unless you're a very competitive autocrosser or track guy I'm willing to bet you won't notice it
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:31 PM   #85
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Actually I'd think the bias would be pretty noticeable, if the rear brakes left stock. It's like slapping a BBK on the front, but not upgrading the rears. Same deal. Big bite, but sometimes *worse* performance because the car has to compensate for nosedive...

AdamRX, why slotted? I'm not sure if anyone could do it, but most folks around here will tell you to stick with non-slotted rotors. Up to you though, of course.
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:40 PM   #86
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I do A LOT of heavy breaking since I pretty much fly everywhere. I have slotted ones now all around (Racingbreak ones), Hawks all around, and I started to get a lot of shimmy only after a month since install. Its only been 4 or so months total and already I'm looking to replace the front rotors. They may or may not warped since there is so much debate going on about that because of the StopTech paper, but I think they are. I dont track, auto x etc, and I need a rotor that can dissapate the heat since its apparent that I generate a lot. I know these rotors are bigger, however I am afraid that I will still tear through them, thus Im curious on the slotted aspect. I dont like shelling out 300-400 every four months for new breaks/rotors. I should've went for a BBK but at the time it was too much, and it still is. Now that my car is no longer stock I doing a lot more flying around and to be honest the setup have now sucks.
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:48 PM   #87
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You've probably got pad deposits on your rotors, man. I'm on that side of the fence, in this debate. Do you stay on your brakes too much, at a full stop?

I say get them lightly lathed, bed them in properly, and try it again. Your Hawks aren't race compound, right?
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:51 PM   #88
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I'd be VERY surprised if you warped Racing Brake rotors... I was one of the first to test them and I did everything I could think of to warp them and wasn't able to. That included getting the pads hot enough to smoke and then spraying cold water on the rotors
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:54 PM   #89
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What the hell did you do that for??
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:56 PM   #90
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I'm really on and off of the brake. It get MEGA shimmy from 120mph down to 40 with hard breaking, but when just gentle slowing down to get off an exit from 90 or 80 to around 30 to 40 its really not that intenses. It really comes on with hard breaking, or which I hate the most, continual breaking. If I'm doing a little frogger (weaving in and out) and have to hit the breaks on and off it just starts to get hot and the shimmy begins. As for the pads I dont think its the race, but the street version, I dont really know. I just want it to stop espically since I moving up to stage 2.5 (Cobb).

PS: have had them smoke on three different occassion, but no cold water. Yes I watched the first thread on RB and no one complained about warping and some were tracking it as well. Maybe its the deposit but I've had warped rotors before and this feels the same.
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Old 10-23-2004, 03:59 PM   #91
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Or... your wheels need rebalanced

I sprayed cold water on them because it was my job to test them. So... I figured "what is the dumbest thing I could possibly do...." and went with it.

From personal experience, the front bias wasn't so bad as to throw the braking far off. Yes, there is a difference but I wouldn't say it hurt braking. Having sat in the car and been able to feel the bias I can sincerely say you wouldn't be disappointed.
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Old 10-23-2004, 04:00 PM   #92
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wheels are brand new, plus a new alingment b/c of my new suspension
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Old 10-23-2004, 04:21 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siper2
You've probably got pad deposits on your rotors, man. I'm on that side of the fence, in this debate. Do you stay on your brakes too much, at a full stop?

I say get them lightly lathed, bed them in properly, and try it again. Your Hawks aren't race compound, right?

What about using some garnet paper on the rotor to remove the so called uneven depostis???
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Old 10-23-2004, 04:39 PM   #94
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AdamRX,
That might work. Not sure. That's all a lathe is essentially doing anyway, it's just a matter of process...


Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhorse
Or... your wheels need rebalanced
"To be" rebalanced. Please spare me... That's like the worst "Pennsylvanianism" of them all, and it drives me crazy.

I was just raggin' on you about the water. If it's your job, then I say it was a good idea! I guess the story was just funny.

=S2=
(native New Hampshirite)
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Old 10-24-2004, 02:16 PM   #95
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oooo i found out what im saving for
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Old 10-25-2004, 10:19 AM   #96
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Bah... silly English with extra words thrown in that we don't need. Anyways.. if anyone needs a set and aren't getting replies to emails be sure just to message me. Sometimes the parts guys are a little slow but I'm up front in sales and checking my computer alllll the time.
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Old 10-25-2004, 01:15 PM   #97
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crazyhorse,

Sending you a PM.
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Old 10-29-2004, 03:22 PM   #98
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Siper2,

Your wheels could be out of balance.

You could always get pads like Porterfield R4s and not ever have to wory about warping rotors or leaving deposits anymore Then you would probably have to worry about changing rotors more often
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Old 10-29-2004, 03:24 PM   #99
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This is my daily dumb question.

Is this basically 05 Legacy GT front brakes on 02+ WRX? Everything just bolts on? no special plates or brackets have to be used to get this to fit?
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Old 10-29-2004, 03:36 PM   #100
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Well you'll need the whole brake assembly off the LGT, but yeah, it otherwise should bolt right on there.

That and you'll need 17" wheels.
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