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Old 06-18-2001, 09:35 PM   #1
Brian Mayfield
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Default Uping the redline?

I just installed a cat-back and gansflow, the EJ25 is breating alot better now. It also wants to Rev alot higher. Every one who has ridden with me thinks I am shifting too soon even though I am waiting till I hit the redline.

What are my options for raising the rev limiter on a 2000RS? I know you can do it with a TECII, but for two grand...

It seems that raising the redline is the best way to get more HP out of your mods. According to the Cobb page you can go to 7200rpm stock, I was thinking of just going to about 6800 untill I got headwork done.

What is everyones oppinions on this.

Thanks
Mayfield
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Old 06-19-2001, 01:11 AM   #2
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7200 stock when you have cobbs stage i cams.
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Old 06-19-2001, 01:27 AM   #3
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As of now the only option to raise the rev limit is a aftermarket ecu. Sucks. An extra 500 RPM's would make all the difference sometimes....
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Old 06-19-2001, 01:37 AM   #4
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There is no point to up the redline unless you get cams in there, you lose ALOT of power just after 5800rpms...I shift at 5500 rpms and I do just fine.
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Old 06-19-2001, 01:39 AM   #5
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Yeah, you need an ECU if you wanna change the redline - the cheapest are $1,100 - $1,300 for Haltec or Link or Wolf, plus you'll need their handheld controllers or a laptop. $2,000 for a TECII if you can afford it.

BTW, your strut bar shipped, but I don't think your red connectors are in yet.

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Old 06-19-2001, 01:49 AM   #6
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Thumbs down

Well, on a stock RS, yes. No point in raising the redline. However just having an intake can change that.
You want to shift when the torque at the wheels in your current gear starts falling below torque at the wheels in the next gear.
For the RS this is almost always redline. In anycase you really need a dyno graph to determine the best shift point. Its not 5500.


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Originally posted by Blindeye_03
There is no point to up the redline unless you get cams in there, you lose ALOT of power just after 5800rpms...I shift at 5500 rpms and I do just fine.
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Old 06-19-2001, 08:46 AM   #7
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I have personally found that optimal shift points in first and second gear have been all the way to redline. Third and fourth gears the power kind of tapers off around 5800 and never really recovers. I have a COI and a 2.5" exhaust.

Some of the things that you can do to increase top end power and make it worth increasing your redline are as follows:

Lightened Flywheel
Underdrive Pulley
Intake
Exhaust
Header
Cams
Heads
Lifter Work
Tech-II (high end) Apex SAFC (low end)
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Old 06-19-2001, 02:18 PM   #8
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Brian: what's your redline? I've been able to get just over 6600 rpm with a Legacy GT ECU (not sure what year, but it's apparently a MY99). I know it's not a lot, but I found the extra 200-300 rpm to be very handy on the track.

-WaC
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Old 06-19-2001, 04:06 PM   #9
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What year legacy do you have. On my 97 I've bounced off the rev limiter before at about or a little over 6200. I'm guessing the ECU changed when the legacy changed to the Phase II SOHC. Just curious.

Pete 97 2.5GT
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Old 06-19-2001, 04:31 PM   #10
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Well Fuel cut is supposedly at 6250. I get a little bit into the red before it cuts on my RS... maybe 6350? Of course that may just be an inaccurate gauge too....
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Old 06-19-2001, 04:49 PM   #11
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Wac, My revs start to bounce at 6200. So you have a Legacy GT or you replaced you ECU with one from a GT?

I dont have a dyno to prove any thing but my car definitly feals like it wants to pull past redline. As it is cams and valve springs are my next mod after I get a new suspention. I guess I am just getting a head of myself. Anyway I better start saving for the tecII

Larry, thanks for the heads up. I got your E-mail last night.

Thanks,
Mayfield
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Old 06-19-2001, 08:20 PM   #12
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I'm using a Legacy GT ECU (and fuel injectors) on my 97 Outback Sport. The ECU is "on loan" from Kevin Thomas. My original 2.2L ECU had the rev limiter at just under 6300 rpm.

The higher rev range is really only useful because it saved me from having to upshift at the top of 4th gear. (Redline in 4th is 111 mph.) The 4th and 5th gears are too widely spaced apart on my car, and so I prefer not to use 5th gear during spirited driving.

-WaC
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Old 06-19-2001, 08:56 PM   #13
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An ECU off any DOHC EJ25 will give you the same increased redline as wac's seeing with the Legacy GT ECU. My '98 RS redlines at 6500 (though, as Wayne has observed, it tends to be a little on the high side of 6500). If you can come by the ECU off a wrecked RS of Legacy cheap, it might be worth the cash for an extra 200-300rpms.

-Kurt.
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Old 06-19-2001, 09:30 PM   #14
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so is the question you want to up the redline or up the rev limiter?

if you want to up the redline you have to pretty much rebuild the engine.. make everything lighter and strong, flywheel, crank pulley, cams, valves, valve springs and a mess of other things too.

For a revlimiter... in a 240sx there is a wire you can pull.. can't remember which one.. its a wire that goes to the tranny to detect the speed in 5th gear, speed govenor and rev limiters are not the same thing but generally if you can find one the other isn't too far away. But just because you reaise your revlimiter doesn't mean that you remapped your torque curve.. so it might not be worht it unless you plan on modding the hell outta your car.

I used to have an NA 240sx that could rev to 8 grand safely. I spent way too much money on it then it was worth, unless you try to calculate the sound effects

Brad
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Old 06-19-2001, 10:48 PM   #15
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What he is saying is that the car pulls hard to redline with the mods now.

If one is not paying attention to the tach, it is easy to hit the limiter because there is NO drop in power at higher revs like before. With a higher rev limit, you can shift when the car feels ready, instead of banging off the limiter because it wants to keep pulling...

I noticed the same thing when I did those same mods to my car. It is even worse with my turbo, and I hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd too soon - I am shifting into 2nd gear in under 1.8 seconds, and into 3rd gear in only 2.2 additional seconds

Larry
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Old 06-19-2001, 11:21 PM   #16
Brian Mayfield
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Quote:
Originally posted by ImprezaRS dot com
What he is saying is that the car pulls hard to redline with the mods now.

If one is not paying attention to the tach, it is easy to hit the limiter because there is NO drop in power at higher revs like before. With a higher rev limit, you can shift when the car feels ready, instead of banging off the limiter because it wants to keep pulling...

I noticed the same thing when I did those same mods to my car. It is even worse with my turbo, and I hit the limiter in 1st and 2nd too soon - I am shifting into 2nd gear in under 1.8 seconds, and into 3rd gear in only 2.2 additional seconds

Larry
Yes that is exactly what I am saying, thanks Larry. I guess I should have stated it better.
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Old 06-20-2001, 01:13 AM   #17
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not to mention, it'd be great in auto-xs, if you need that extra second or two, instead of the rev limiter.

don
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Old 06-20-2001, 08:15 AM   #18
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Although it may be possible that my tach is just off and has always been. My rev limiter is at about 6500-6600. I have a MY99 2.5 RS and no ECU changes. Now I just need an intake to use it better.

Jon
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Old 06-20-2001, 11:24 AM   #19
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My tach reads 6,300 at the fuel cutoff, 6350 if it has momentum carrying it past. I seem to recall my SAFC said 6,200 at the same point.

Needless to say, I decided I want to raise redline to 6,800 rpm and just plopped down some scratch last night for a TEC II with 550cc injectors. That's a shame since it is running so well now with the SDSEFI dual TB injectors and new coil-pack.

I guess I'll be a Shiv groupie now

Larry
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Old 06-20-2001, 02:47 PM   #20
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I would think that if you want to substantially raise the redline you would have to beef up all of the internals starting with, cams, flywheel, pistons, and heads then an ecu. I am not sure but you might have to get the ecu first and then buy the rest of the stuff. Why would you not go turbo? If you build up an N/A car you will end up spending as much as you will to do a conversion(WRX) which will give you the desired Redline you are looking for.

Nick.
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Old 06-20-2001, 03:47 PM   #21
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COBB says the pistons and valves are good to 7,200 before valve float.

I already have the flywheel and pulley, and the turbo pulls hard to the limiter, so I don't need a cam that will cause me to lose some boost due to valve overlap yet.

Larry
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