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Old 10-01-2004, 09:28 PM   #1
kedrin
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Default have u tried mobil 1 race oil?

i decided for this next oil change i would try out what they supposedly made for race engines. its 15w-50


anyone else use this and what are its advantages vs disadvantages.
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Old 10-01-2004, 09:44 PM   #2
Rallycarperson
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Race oil isnt recommended for street purposes...


-Mark
www.MAPmotors.com
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Old 10-01-2004, 09:47 PM   #3
nug@imracing
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dont rec. thick oil for subarus, clearences are to tight.

10W30 syn mobil 1 fine
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Old 10-01-2004, 09:52 PM   #4
kedrin
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hmm its a little late for that.. cant hurt anything tho right?
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Old 10-01-2004, 09:56 PM   #5
nug@imracing
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how many miles, and i would go back to 10w30- ive seen to many problems w/ subie motors and oiling problems; i.e. bearings go away
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:00 PM   #6
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you already have the 15-50 in???

and he is right, TIGHT clearances in the motor

I would drain it
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:01 PM   #7
kedrin
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wouldnt thicker oil help bearings better...?


i have 15k miles on my motor.


taking it out would cost me another 20 bucks... which i dont have nor do i want to spend again.
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:02 PM   #8
illmob
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Race oil? That stuff is for all of the M3 engines blowin' up.
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:09 PM   #9
my02turboWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kedrin
wouldnt thicker oil help bearings better...?


i have 15k miles on my motor.


taking it out would cost me another 20 bucks... which i dont have nor do i want to spend again.
If you were to have the engine apart you will know why this all is being said. The heads to start with. The cam bearings are tight and when you see how they are oiled then you will have more insight into NOT running a thicker oil.

With that 15-50 you may run a higher risk of hot spots and the destruction of the bearings.

PS
spend the $20
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:10 PM   #10
nug@imracing
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with the tight clearences and thick oil the oil cant get to the bearings good enough or spread on the bearing surface and it will start to eat the bearing.

and it will cause excessive oil pressure.

example: i just put a bone stock ej20 short block in our race car for testing, we did nothing to it, straight 30 to braek it in, but had like 90 psi at idle and could not figure out why.

broke in for 3 hrs and changed to 0w30 Amsoil syn. went down a little so we went on to map the car, got a have a day in and blew the motor up.

took it apart and Subaru gave us a motor w/ clearences so tight the bearings had no oil and burned up ------5 hrs old.

found the reason for the high oil pressure though
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:43 PM   #11
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Crap, I just ran the race oil for ~3500miles Switched back to 10W30 though as I thought the heavier oil would be better for the hotter summer. Great, I hope no permanent damage is done...car seems to be fine..for now *crosses fingers*
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:56 PM   #12
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Follow the viscosity recommendations in your owners manual for the ambient temperatures in your area. Subaru knows what they are doing when they make those charts, no need to second-guess them.
Race oil is not intended for street applications and does not have the proper additives to promote engine longevity. Remember that engines used for racing are torn down and rebuilt regularly so the priority is to make it through the race, not to last 100K+ miles.
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Old 10-02-2004, 12:08 AM   #13
DChan
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This is how it was explained to me. Race oil is obviously thicker and more prone to sticking to stuff. While on a track, you're exposing the car to g-forces in every direction. Your fluids are going to move w/ those g-forces. Thinner oils are going to move more while thicker ones are not. I tried the M1 Race oil for a track day and did not notice any difference. Now I just use Amsoil's Turbo Formula.
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Old 10-02-2004, 12:26 AM   #14
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Race oils do not have most of the anti-wear additives that you find in regular street use oils because they are meant to be chaged out every race. While they are typically capable of operating at higher temps they also break down faster and don't last for the typical duration of an oil change for a street car.
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Old 10-02-2004, 07:13 AM   #15
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If you don't drain it out. At lease let the car warm up for a while to get the oil thinner before you drive it hard or anything. You'd be surprised how long it takes for the oil to reach normal opperating temps. oil temp guage helps
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Old 10-02-2004, 08:45 AM   #16
kedrin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubieStyle
If you don't drain it out. At lease let the car warm up for a while to get the oil thinner before you drive it hard or anything. You'd be surprised how long it takes for the oil to reach normal opperating temps. oil temp guage helps
haha i thought you were starting to refer to the dude with the srt4

"i took the oil filter off and started the car to get all the oil out"


a classic forever.


ya i will be changing oil again. my car is sitting on jacks in my garage while i put all my junk on my car.
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Old 10-06-2004, 11:18 PM   #17
fabrik8
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Does that Amsoil turbo formula have a different name? I don't see it right off the bat at Amsoils site..

By the way, are you saying that the Amsoil 0W-30 is too high viscosity? I've never used it but that wa one of my choices to try.. Any other advice on this?
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Old 10-07-2004, 12:00 AM   #18
Russ77
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just run mobil 1 5w30, and 10w30 when it's extremely hot. i've got 45k on my motor, over half of that is with a vf34 swap. i've run only mobil 1 since about 10k miles and it's in excellent shape.
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Old 10-07-2004, 12:02 AM   #19
MB38
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I love the SRT4 guy. That was such a terrific thread.

"How do you keep oil from spraying everywhere?"
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Old 10-07-2004, 01:13 AM   #20
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10w-30? Is better than 5w-30 if you drive a little harder? I've been using 5w-30 super syn. mobil 1 for a while now.

I don't mean to thread jack or anything.
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Old 10-07-2004, 08:01 AM   #21
jvic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kedrin
haha i thought you were starting to refer to the dude with the srt4

"i took the oil filter off and started the car to get all the oil out"


a classic forever.


ya i will be changing oil again. my car is sitting on jacks in my garage while i put all my junk on my car.

Oh my...I didn't see that one. Do you have a link to the thread???
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Old 10-07-2004, 10:15 AM   #22
kedrin
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i think its stickied on the srt4 forums
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:11 AM   #23
makofoto
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It was my understanding that the low end of multi viscosity oil was how thick the oil is, ie. a 10/30 oil has a viscosity of 10. When it gets warm ... it does NOT get thicker ... it is always a 10 oil ... but it has the protection of up to a 30 weight oil. Oil does not get thicker as it warms up ...
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Old 10-07-2004, 02:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kedrin
wouldnt thicker oil help bearings better...?


i have 15k miles on my motor.


taking it out would cost me another 20 bucks... which i dont have nor do i want to spend again.
Dude, you don't have $20 to spend on oil on your $25K car?
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Old 10-07-2004, 04:01 PM   #25
RexRonald
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Quote:
Originally Posted by makofoto
It was my understanding that the low end of multi viscosity oil was how thick the oil is, ie. a 10/30 oil has a viscosity of 10. When it gets warm ... it does NOT get thicker ... it is always a 10 oil ... but it has the protection of up to a 30 weight oil. Oil does not get thicker as it warms up ...
ok, but why then have i read in these forums and others that,

"high revs on cold oil = short engine life"

pretty sure i read that here at NASIOC posted by a respected member... and always thought that myself too, oil just needs to be up to temp before driving hard all over your car... thus the exchanger, warming up your engine oil to operating temp just a few minutes after your coolant is up to temp... ???
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