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Old 10-08-2004, 11:31 AM   #1
myles
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Default Removing the Heads from my EJ25?

I trying to Port, Polish and Match my heads as well as get new cams and headers but I want save on labor cost. How difficult is it to remove the heads and is there a step by step guide or something like that to help? Or does anyone live in the chiago land area that would want to give a helping hand for some extra cash? something like that. I just need some help cause labor chages will rape me.
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Old 10-08-2004, 01:54 PM   #2
jeffg
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only thing I know.... mark the timing belt and pulleys before you take it off. A white paint marker will be your friend here.
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Old 10-08-2004, 03:12 PM   #3
chip4761
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Yeah, I have a similiar question about this. I know how to get the heads off, but when I tried to do it on my ej22, I was afraid that the head bolts were going to snap. I really don't want to have to take my whole block to a machine shop to get those suckers out. Is there a good way to get them out? Heat the block with a torch? I really don't know. Throw me a bone.
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Old 10-09-2004, 05:00 AM   #4
RyansJDMgc8
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I suggest start the engine and let it run until normal operating temperature. Then turn it off and start tearing apart the heads, so by the time you get to the head bolts, they will still be warm. I know its no Subaru, but thats how I took the heads off on my 73' Big Block Nova.

I try to keep torches as far away from my engine as possible.
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Old 10-09-2004, 01:08 PM   #5
gtwagon941
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doesn't heat make things expand?? Wouldn't that make the bolt/hole a tighter fit?? Maybe this isn't true, but I would think that a cold block would be better, but I have NO experience on this and shouldn't be trusted

Jared
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Old 10-10-2004, 03:40 AM   #6
chip4761
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Thank you for the honesty, Jared!

Well, getting the head bolts off with the engine in the car would be a problem, as the heads on one engine are no longer in a car. My buddy and I were just talking about getting the heads off the 1.8 and seeing if the head studs snap. If no, good. If they do, oh well, b/c I'm not using that block anyway. However, I would have to figure something out with the 2.2.
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Old 10-10-2004, 01:41 PM   #7
Tim Sanderson
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The block and heads are aluminum. The bolt is hardened steel. I highly doubt you are going to snap the bolts.
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Old 10-10-2004, 02:02 PM   #8
White 2.5rs
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the bolts are alluminum i believe, or not hardened steel they stretch quite a bit
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Old 10-10-2004, 02:27 PM   #9
chip4761
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Aluminum bolts? That sounds like dumb idea, on Subaru's part. I figured they were steel, and they had reacted with the aluminum, hence the sticking. They've been in there for awhile, that's why I'm concerned about them breaking.
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:37 AM   #10
Tim Sanderson
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They will come out. They are definately not aluminum bolts.
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:16 AM   #11
White 2.5rs
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eh youre probably right, they sure seem flimsy tho
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:34 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by White 2.5rs
eh youre probably right, they sure seem flimsy tho
What are you trying to take them off with? Quality tools with the correct 12pt socket? If you're using worn out tools, it could very well be those instead of the bolts that feel flimsy.

If you think the headbolts are hard to get out, don't even try to split the block!

Jay Storm
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Old 10-11-2004, 01:59 PM   #13
Section 8
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The bolts feel "flimsy" because they are very long. There is gong to be alot of strech compared to a 2 or 3 inch bolt that most people are use to. (this is part of the reason for the odd tightening sequence).

Heat will make metal expand. However different metals expand at different rates. Aluminum has significently higher coeffcient than steel. While the bolt head will press into the head harder and generate more tension in the bolt, the threads of the bolt will be pinched less. Being warm may or may not help remove the bolts.

Which leads us to adding heat to the bolt head:

Using a torch on a 8+inch bolt on an aluminum head isn't such a good idea. Aluminum is a better conductor of heat than steel, a large part of the heat you put into the steel bolt will likely be removed by the aluminum at the bolt head, and the left over heat that makes it to the threads will be rapidly removed from them by the block. Which is sort of waht you want, but by that time you have substantionally heated up the head in one spot possibly causing it to warp.

cheeRS,

Greg
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:58 PM   #14
SubyGC8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffg
only thing I know.... mark the timing belt and pulleys before you take it off. A white paint marker will be your friend here.
Dont mark the timing belt and pulley where it is.. you have to turn the engine over to TDC (top dead center). Then the pulleys should already be marked from the factory. Thats what timing marks are. There are also timing marks on the crank pulley.. They do this because the cams are rotating at half the speed of the crankshaft.. If you plan on doing this yourself you may want to buy a manual that tells you everything you need to know because your also going to need torque specs, which is very important in building or putting the engine back together. also your going to need new headbolts because they do stretch and will not torque properly the second time around.
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