Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday October 22, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Normally Aspirated Powertrain

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-10-2004, 03:25 PM   #1
left footed whooten
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44652
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Truckee, CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX
15 Forester

Default pop goes the timing belt

hi there, just popped a timing belt on my 96 impreza ej18. Can the ej18 sustain a broken timing belt? I cranked it briefly after it cut out and it semmed to spin alright, but i figured it was common knowledge as to whether a broken belt on this engine is curtains. pushing up daisies. I believe the cause was a seized idler pulley or water pump or tensioner or something, as something was screaming at me from in there as a valiantly tried to make it to school for a test. So if anyone can fill me in as to whether you can generally get away with it, and if you need a special tool for the tensioner or anything,id be very grateful. got lots of tests to study for, even though id rather be playing with my car.
east bound and down
dylan
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
left footed whooten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 03:36 PM   #2
subiekid
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 25516
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Send help, stuck in internet!
Vehicle:
1995 Legacy TURBO!!!
EJ22T/TEC3 & '12 Civic

Default

Should be fine. I had one break on my ej22T, I tried to turn over the car and then took it in and had it replaced. Motor is fine.

EDIT: forgot to add that using a screwdriver in the bell housing is hard. I bent a craftsman screwdriver and had a hell of a time getting it out after I was done. I recomend getting the tool from subaru for 70 bucks. It should make life easier.
subiekid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 04:23 PM   #3
jamesfacts
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 51282
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Brooklyn NYC / Danbury CT
Vehicle:
98 RS
black & blue from parking

Default

It'll be fine. You'll need a press or vice for the tensioner, though.
jamesfacts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 08:19 PM   #4
chip4761
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 55867
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Ashtabula, OH
Vehicle:
2005 Saabaru
AS

Default

Somebody at a foreign car garage told me once that the ej18 was an interference engine. I told her she was wrong. She got offended. I guess people who are "always right" don't like being told they're wrong.

I'll tell you, though. If you can find an excuse to take the engine out, the job will be WAY easier.
chip4761 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2004, 11:23 PM   #5
Tim Sanderson
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 6486
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: S.E. wisconsin
Vehicle:
00 Impreza 2.5 RS
Blue Ridge Pearl

Default

I think pulling the engine to change the timing belt is overkill. Obviously you want to determine which part failed and replace it. A new belt will have alignment marks on it to make life much easier. Depending on mileage, now is the perfect time to replace water and oil pumps, and all the seals.
Tim Sanderson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2004, 02:53 AM   #6
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

If it went anything like mine, the waterpump had been squealing for awhile and you naive-ly told yourself it was a loose belt because it would sometimes go away after things warmed up. Then one day it squealed like crazy so you turned up the radio vowing to tighten the belt as soon as you got a chance. But before you could say "oh crap", the squealing stopped with a bang that wasn't metallic, followed by a flashing CEL and abrupt loss of "power"(in quotes because we all know the 1.8 has no power to begin with).

If this sounds familiar, you will be fine to just replace the waterpump and timing belt. It would be wiser to replace the oilpump and seal while you're in this deep. Also flush the coolant because the shavings of aluminum are evenly distributed along the flowpath.

I went the other direction and fibbed to my better half. I told her it was an interference motor and that the valves were bent and likely had piston damage too. So I put in a "project" EJ25 that I built up mildly after abandoning a nice little supercharger setup not unlike a prototype SPT setup.

For not a whole heck of alot of work, you can swap in a 2.5 and run it off the current ECU using your current sensors. It's being done by many folks tired of looking way too far down the street to see if it's safe to pull into traffic.


Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2004, 10:48 AM   #7
bobko
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 64646
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Virginia
Vehicle:
1995 Legacy wagon
Green

Default Replacing the timing belt

You can replace the timing belt yourself if you have a decent set of hand tools and some time. It's not the easiest repair by a long shot, but it can be done by a shadetree mechanic. The good news is that there is a tensioner that will maintain the proper belt tension once you get it all back together.

I concur about replacing all the things that are easily replaced once you get the belt off. The hardest part for me was getting the bolt off the end of the crankshaft. There is a special tool for it, but nobody where I live (including a couple of Subaru dealers) would rent or loan the tool. I resorted to using a couple of bolts and a breaker bar to hold the crankshaft pulley as I twisted off the bolt. You will need to compress the tensioner in a vise and having an extra pair of hands around for that is helpful. Otherwise, it's all pretty straightforward... just be sure you get the crankshaft and camshafts lined up to the correct marks.

--Bob
bobko is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2004, 10:56 AM   #8
nunyo
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 35575
Join Date: Apr 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Tampa
Vehicle:
'07 Subaru OBS
Silver/Gray

Default

FWIW, I used a C-clamp on my tensioner. To break the crank pulley bolt loose I put a cheater bar on the breaker bar and laid it on the frame rail, then I bumped the starter. Bolt broke free with no trouble.
nunyo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2004, 08:12 PM   #9
left footed whooten
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 44652
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Truckee, CA
Vehicle:
06 WRX
15 Forester

Default thanks

nice everybody,
music to my ears. she's gonna get quite a rodgering after midterms i say!
dylan
left footed whooten is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2004, 08:29 PM   #10
ImprezaVA
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 32846
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Elkton, VA
Vehicle:
1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Default Timing belt that no longer times

As mentioned above, a C-clamp will suffice to push the tensioner back in. A really small allen wrench to hold it in is good too (2mm I think?) Make sure you leave the handle/bend out so you can remove it. If you replace the crank seal, which you should, you can drive it in with a peice of PVC pipe (2.5", 3" I forget). Hmm, an extra set of hands for tightening the cam sprockets (58 ft-lbs) with strap wrench will help. Sadly, I resorted to the breaker bar/pipe on the frame method to get the crank pulley bolt off (130 ft-lb or 94 ft-lb), but I have a 4EAT so cut me some slack . www.endwrench.com has some help, and there is plenty of other info as of the past 3 months.

-Charles-
ImprezaVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 09:32 PM   #11
xride63
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 132596
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: dirty jersey
Vehicle:
1996 impreza
red

Default

my 3j18 is reaching the 120k mark and i understand the timing belt is estimated for 60k. at least thats what the dealer preaches. i am about to buy a belt from the dealer for $59.99 and i wanted to buy a new tensioner. how important is it to replace the tensioner or are they re-usable? on my dsm i always replaced them for fear of them failing on an interference motor. do a lot of you 1.8 and 2.2 guys reuse your original tensioner? if so thats great news because the dealer wants some $122.00 for a new tensioner.

this seems like a straight forward process. I'm guessing i can remove the radiator once i drain the coolant and pull the timing belt covers. then i assume I'd loosen the pulley and pull the tensioner. then remove the crank pulley and belt line the dowels put the belt on with the corresponding marks and shlapp her back together.


are there any other tricks with these motors and is there enough room to get in there with just the radiator removed? this is the first thing I'll have done on the car short of an oil change. any help or tips are welcomed. it seems like this will go similar to my Mitsubishi.

-thanks.



p.s. is there a good place to order a belt ($60) and or tensioner($122) that would save me money? does the dealership price sound out of hand or should i stick with the genuine parts at that price? any suggestions or any experience with the matter is also appreciated !
xride63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 09:41 PM   #12
SLI99
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 134819
Join Date: Dec 2006
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Torrington CT
Vehicle:
2005 Ford F150 FX4
.........................

Default

haha i love the title of the thread
SLI99 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2007, 11:51 PM   #13
Storm
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 5218
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

Default

I't alsways best to replace the tensioner but if you take your time compressing it (and it isn't already borked) you can re use it. Check the bearings in all the tensioner pulleys. When in doubt, replace them. Removing the radiator/fans is all the room you'll need, besides the battery if you want somewhere to put your tools.....

How you break the crank pulley bolt loose is up to you...but it's not fun with halfassed tools. A long breaker and good socket will make short work of it if you keep the flywheel from turning too. I use a pinchbar through the top inspection cover. An Air gun works even better when the radiator is out too.

Other than that, it's pretty straightforward.

Jay Storm
Storm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-21-2007, 05:13 AM   #14
hitter
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 144009
Join Date: Mar 2007
Your NASIOC Administrator

oh what a post
hitter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2007, 01:56 PM   #15
xride63
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 132596
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: dirty jersey
Vehicle:
1996 impreza
red

Default

thanks. sounds like it'll go smoothly if thats all the room i'll need.
xride63 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Timing belt cover and checking the timing belt Pinned Service & Maintenance 12 11-08-2010 10:17 AM
Pop goes the end link bolts TheLegacy Tri-State Area Forum 9 06-20-2005 12:00 AM
Instructions for taking timing belt cover off to inpect the timing belt? scoobbee Service & Maintenance 3 05-09-2005 06:33 PM
Pop goes the tranny! Conduit Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 7 02-03-2003 11:33 AM
Pop goes the rear bluey Newbies & FAQs 3 01-23-2001 07:43 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.