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Old 10-25-2004, 05:32 PM   #1
flyingm0ky
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Default auto-x 2.5rs

i am thinking about trading in my spec-v and getting a 98-01 rs in the spring, i was wondering what would be a good auto-x set-up. wheels, tires, mods, any info that you may have or sugestions.

thanks
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Old 10-25-2004, 07:03 PM   #2
RS_to_WRX_swap
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Try the motorsports forums, i bet you will get a better answer there.
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Old 10-25-2004, 07:55 PM   #3
Caplin 2.5
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you want more power or handling? if power try lookin at www.xcceleration.com look at there power packages, if you want handling i think you should go with some nice toyo proxes t1-s i can't even get them to screech. and maybe a tein ss coilover kit, you could adjust the dampness from the inside with the edfc. Prodrive also came out with a new coilover kit. its suppose to be a new smart one that changes dampness 1000 times per second electronically and anticpates bumps and changes dampness based on its anticipations.
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Old 10-25-2004, 08:14 PM   #4
flyingm0ky
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thanks i will check out that site. and move the post to motorsports.
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Old 10-25-2004, 09:46 PM   #5
west_minist
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here is my setup.

STI Braided lines, Ferodo DS2500 brake pads, Motul RBF 600, WRX brake conversion for the front, Legacy rear brake conversion, STI Adjustable suspension, K&N Filter, Greddy or HKS muffler system. 20mm rear and 19mm front swaybars, Toyo Proxes RA1's and good camber.
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Old 10-26-2004, 12:34 AM   #6
Section 8
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Solid CO2, Oxy-acetylene, general hand tools, metric socket set (including 1/4" drive deep well), and a monkey. Alcohol helps (for the monkey).
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Old 10-26-2004, 12:36 AM   #7
Ruff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caplin 2.5
you want more power or handling? if power try lookin at www.xcceleration.com look at there power packages, if you want handling i think you should go with some nice toyo proxes t1-s i can't even get them to screech. and maybe a tein ss coilover kit, you could adjust the dampness from the inside with the edfc. Prodrive also came out with a new coilover kit. its suppose to be a new smart one that changes dampness 1000 times per second electronically and anticpates bumps and changes dampness based on its anticipations.
What am I doing wrong, or right ? I can get my toyo t-1s to screech around nearly any corner. I have tried from stock air pressure up to around 40 psi in each tire, I am still make them squeel like pigs.
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Old 10-26-2004, 01:17 AM   #8
Section 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caplin 2.5's
anticpates bumps and changes dampness based on its anticipations.



DAMN!

I'm getting one of those.

Yeeeeaaaa Baby...YEA!!!

Too sexy!
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Old 10-26-2004, 09:32 AM   #9
jamesfacts
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You might want to take what xcelleration says w/ a heap of salt.
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Old 10-26-2004, 10:04 AM   #10
linsavy
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first you have to decide what class you want, then set a budget. The new Kumho V710s are way better than Toyos.
Goods stuff:
22mm or 24mm front sway bar plus endlinks
Koni inserts
P1 springs
Sti top hats
Camber plates
Or big dollar coilovers
Poly or STi bushings everywhere
20-24 adjustable rear sway bar and links
Intake, exhaust, light pulleys, copper spark plugs, grounding mod
Light flywheel, stronger clutch
15/7 wheels
Williams brake pads, SS lines, new brake fluids
JDM bumper beams, remove interior, A/C, stereo, sound deadening, etc.
Aluminium hood, control arms
Battery relocation
etc.
Or you could slap on some rcompounds and bigger front sway and run in stock class.
Have fun!!
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:16 AM   #11
Section 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by americanyouth
You might want to take what xcelleration says w/ a heap of salt.
The quote (just the part I quoted) is very dirty if read correctly.

Active suspentions are a pain in the ass. THey might work in a new car, but there has never been a car equipped with one that didn't have a giant problem with them later on.
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Old 10-26-2004, 07:14 PM   #12
Caplin 2.5
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yeah I was just exaggerating the screech thing with the toyo's haha, but its hard to lose control with them specially with full time AWD. The Active suspension is a pretty good concept and probably one of the most reliable things in a new car, but you know how electronic things are, some are bound to have a malfunction others are bound to last long, but bottom line they'll give you Fuc*ing good performance and comfort while they last. I don't under stand why most people have some quarrel with Xcceleration.com. They actually are pretty smart good guys, just a little pricy.
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Old 10-26-2004, 10:30 PM   #13
yamahito
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I would not get a 98 or 99. The 98 has DOHC, that doesn't perform quite as well, and the 99 has a different air flow sensor that can cause problems to intake mods. Try for a '00-'02 if possible. Tires will def make the biggest difference....then decide which class you wanna compete in. I was stock, but couldn't stand the body roll in corners so added a rear sway....I will be doing suspension mods (you will generally get more performance for your money there)
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:03 PM   #14
Caplin 2.5
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Making the center of gravity by lowering your car and being able to adjust stiffness will be a really cost effective upgrade for auto-x.
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Old 10-26-2004, 11:13 PM   #15
Pakin
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Drive the car the way it is. Then change what you feel is nessesary.

-paK +1
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Old 10-27-2004, 05:51 AM   #16
X4 SRT
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Quote:
I don't under stand why most people have some quarrel with Xcceleration.com. They actually are pretty smart good guys, just a little pricy
A little pricy is a very big understatement. Have you seen what they want for the suspension package?
This package includes adjustable KYB AGX Struts (front and rear) and high quality Sport Springs which combine to give you a lower look and reduce body roll. To improve balance and reduce understeer, we include a Rear Sway bar.

Stage 1 Street Handling Package (1998-2001) $1699.99
Stage 1 Street Handling Package (2002-on) $1699.99

1700????? I sure as hell don't think so. You can have the exact same set up for around 800. Sorry, but I'm not paying twice the price for the same ****. The whole place is filled with overpriced ****. Stay away from them. IMO.

If you want to buy an RS and auto-x you first need to decide what class you want to run. If you plan on runing in G-stock just do a season with the car as is and get use to it. When the second season rolls around and you have gotten the hang of the car get some r-compounds. I think most of us that run are running in STS. For this you can do a lot of stuff. Any suspension mod is going to be far more effective than the power mods. The most important to get though is the rear sway bar. Get an adjustable one, so you can adjust it as you upgrade your suspension. You won't want to be running 22mm in the back on stock struts, that will just be too stiff for the stock stuff to handle and will more than likely make the car handle worse. Tires are also very important. Run somehthing good. Most people run Azenis or khumo MX's. Right now I'm running BFGoodrich KDW's, and they work great. Struts and springs would be the next step probably. You can't run the tiens with the edfc in STS (maybe not at all in scca) but you can go with any strut/spring combo you want or with coilovers. The question is: how much do you want to spend.? With coilovers you're looking at over 1500 at least. If you go with something fancy like what prodrive will be offering soon you can expect to pay in the neighberhood of 3500-5K for that setup. So theres a starting point for you to go on. If you want power just go with the usual I/H/E/LWP. That would be enough to run in STS.
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Old 10-27-2004, 09:59 AM   #17
ratt_finkel
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Actually you can run the TEIN Flex in any SCCA venue. You just can't have the EDFC connected. Basically, the rules state you cannont have access to changing the shock setting while in the cockpit.
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Old 10-27-2004, 12:10 PM   #18
powerlabs
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I've got a 1999 Impreza 2.5RS that I've had good luck with in autocrosses (I call it luck because I've only been to a few and am still learning). You can check out all the details of my setup as well as some autox videos at the page. My first and foremost advice for you would be to get the best wheel/tire combo you can though; the best car in the world won't perform worth crap with cheap tires.
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Old 10-27-2004, 07:04 PM   #19
jamesfacts
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Section 8
The quote (just the part I quoted) is very dirty if read correctly.

Active suspentions are a pain in the ass. THey might work in a new car, but there has never been a car equipped with one that didn't have a giant problem with them later on.
Yeah, I was referring to the OP..... I know you know all about them already!
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Old 10-27-2004, 07:59 PM   #20
Caplin 2.5
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I'm just buying their custom made exhaust from them. They are pretty nice and they're the only ones that'd fit my 05 rs perfectly, and produce a sound i want.
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Old 10-28-2004, 04:02 PM   #21
deuce.five
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The best thing to do is look at the rules. I found out the hard way. STS will be the cheapest class to move into when your ready to move out of novice. Stock class, in order to be competitive, you'll need R-compound tires, which are around $150 each, AND another set of wheels to mount them on, cause you don't want to use them for daily driving. For that amount of money (approx. $900), you could have a pretty nice set-up, and you'll like your car better. $900 would buy a nnice set of Falken Azenis, arguably the best non-"R" compound tire out there, for $450, another $125-150 for a rear swaybar, Some aftermarket endlinks front and rear ( I like Perrin), and a good alignment, all for probably less than $900. The car will be SO much better than it is now. Of course you can take it further if you get "hooked" but these changes will transform your car into a tool that performs consistantly in which to hone your skills.
That's my $.02
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Old 11-02-2004, 09:31 PM   #22
Draken
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruff
What am I doing wrong, or right ? I can get my toyo t-1s to screech around nearly any corner. I have tried from stock air pressure up to around 40 psi in each tire, I am still make them squeel like pigs.
I found the T1-S to like much higher pressures. When we ran my friend's '99 2.5RS at national West Coast Solo events, and local PIR and Eugene events, we usually ran around 45-46psi in the front. 40-44 in the rear, course dependent. Tires were 215/45-17 on a good suspension. Oh yeah...the T1-S don't squel real bad, imo.

Good luck

Chris H.
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Old 11-03-2004, 11:00 AM   #23
IamRascal
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The other thing to consider is if you want to run your daily drivers on the autox course as well. I say go with the R-comps in stock class and learn to drive the car at it's limits. You can get used R-comps for a fairly good price, usually 200-300 for 4 tires. Then get some replacement stock rims or buy some new rims off tirerack.

When I killed my stock factory tires on my sunfire. I bought some 17' rims and tires to replace them off e-bay for $650 (from a suby owner hehe...), then got some used A032R's from 'fullup' for $200.00

$850.00 and I'm loving it!!!

Tires will make the biggest difference, and for budget racing stock is the way to be .

my 0.03

try and get a co-drive from someone running your car in STS with your intended mods and someone running in stock with R-comps. Then make your decision.
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:32 PM   #24
99snowhiteRS
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not to jack a thread, but, with all this upgrade talk, anyone know whats the best sounding cat-back exhaust to throw on a 99' 2.5rs, i wanna get that sti sound outa it but i dont want it to be raspy and annoying. Any help?!!!
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:13 PM   #25
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Stromung. /discussion
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