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Old 11-01-2004, 12:35 PM   #1
Valhakar
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Lightbulb Figured out a new use for the AccessPort *Oil change*

OK this isn't earth shattering, but I think it is pretty clever.

When you change the oil you leave portions of the oil system with air in it, even if you prime the oil filter which most people don't do. The best way to avoid the "new oil piston slap" is to crank the engine over without it starting.

1. change oil and filter

2. Load the antitheft B real time map.

3. Crank the car for 30-60 seconds ( Map wont let the car start)

4. Load your regular Real time map.

5. Start the car with the oil system primed!
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Old 11-01-2004, 01:12 PM   #2
8Complex

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Yeah, I used to turn off the injectors on my Haltech every time I had to replace/rebuild my motor, specifially to prime the oil and pump up the fuel system.
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Old 11-01-2004, 03:47 PM   #3
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Or simply unplug one of the three large engine harness connectors in the engine bay. Two by the battery and one by the turbo.

Clark
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:32 PM   #4
hondaeater69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valhakar
OK this isn't earth shattering, but I think it is pretty clever.

When you change the oil you leave portions of the oil system with air in it, even if you prime the oil filter which most people don't do. The best way to avoid the "new oil piston slap" is to crank the engine over without it starting.

1. change oil and filter

2. Load the antitheft B real time map.

3. Crank the car for 30-60 seconds ( Map wont let the car start)

4. Load your regular Real time map.

5. Start the car with the oil system primed!
good for turbo changes too!!
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:37 PM   #5
happasaiyan
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yep...

ive used the UTEC "7" map switch for such occasions as new turbo and oil changes.

very convenient.
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Old 11-01-2004, 05:38 PM   #6
jdchmiel
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isnt this what the efi fuse is for?
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Old 11-02-2004, 03:08 AM   #7
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30 to 60 seconds is too much for your starter all at once.
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Old 11-02-2004, 06:05 AM   #8
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true dont crank a starter for over 15 seconds. then allow a good 30 seconds for it to cool off. Starters are dead shorts thus if you crank for 30-60 seconds you may just melt or weld some starter components rendering it useless. Clever idea though with the oil priming.
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Old 11-02-2004, 08:20 AM   #9
Valhakar
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I usually give it 10 seconds, 3 times with a few seconds in between.

As for the connectors and EFI fuses, what a PITA. AP plugs in to the ODB-II port and takes 10 seconds to flash a realtime map.
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Old 11-02-2004, 09:29 AM   #10
pezman04wrx
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Good call ... That certainly beats trying to crank the car and not have it start up ... ... Really though, good find ...
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Old 11-02-2004, 02:33 PM   #11
jayblizzo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valhakar
OK this isn't earth shattering, but I think it is pretty clever.

When you change the oil you leave portions of the oil system with air in it, even if you prime the oil filter which most people don't do. The best way to avoid the "new oil piston slap" is to crank the engine over without it starting.

1. change oil and filter

2. Load the antitheft B real time map.

3. Crank the car for 30-60 seconds ( Map wont let the car start)

4. Load your regular Real time map.

5. Start the car with the oil system primed!
what good does it do vs not doing it?
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Old 11-02-2004, 02:39 PM   #12
Valhakar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayblizzo
what good does it do vs not doing it?
It is recomended you fill the oil filter up with oil before installing it to reduce the dry sump issues. Even when you do this, there are other areas through the oil system that have air in it.

Cranking the engine but not letting it start purges the air and lets the whole engine get oil before you add any real load by starting it.

As for what can happen? Worst case? You knock a few thousand miles off the engine life every time the engine catches before the oil gets to it. You hear that ugly "clack clack clack" till the oil reaches it. Remember our pistons are laying on their sides.
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Old 11-02-2004, 04:46 PM   #13
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Sounds good but: I run the engine before draining the oil so all the piecy parts have a oil coating. Plus I don't let it drain all day when I change the oil. If you watch oil pressure gauges you'll see very little difference in the time it takes the oil to build pressure compared to any other cold start.
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Old 11-02-2004, 07:42 PM   #14
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if you want horror stories of "big ends" failing after oil changes, go visit scoobynet.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:57 AM   #15
Valhakar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX03
Sounds good but: I run the engine before draining the oil so all the piecy parts have a oil coating. Plus I don't let it drain all day when I change the oil. If you watch oil pressure gauges you'll see very little difference in the time it takes the oil to build pressure compared to any other cold start.
When you drain the oil, you leave air in the system. There is significant latency in the oiling of the car as it purgest the air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RIDE5000
if you want horror stories of "big ends" failing after oil changes, go visit scoobynet.
Exactly. Better safe than sorry. Why add wear to the engine?
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Old 11-03-2004, 12:45 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Valhakar
When you drain the oil, you leave air in the system. There is significant latency in the oiling of the car as it purgest the air.

Thou are quite concernedst with the longevity of thou engine.
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Old 11-03-2004, 12:48 PM   #17
Valhakar
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Yes I am. 2003 WRX bought in March 2003. 39K miles. I run a very conservative stage 2. I expect the engine to go 150K at least.
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:04 PM   #18
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There is enough lubrication to prevent any wear if you 1)warm and run the engine before draining, 2) drain the oil quickly, 3) start the engine after filling, and 4) not rev the engine at first start up.

I see this benefitial if you don't do above, rebuild an engine, or the engine has sat for a long time.

If this is so important you might as well do it for every cold start, because you'll get more wear from all those than an oil change.
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Old 11-03-2004, 02:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoobyNights
If this is so important you might as well do it for every cold start, because you'll get more wear from all those than an oil change.
good point.
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:03 PM   #21
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I must concede SOME on the topic after doing some reading, but are we comparing apples to oranges here? Was it truely an oil change problem(s) or something else?
Also I would say that hardly anyone or company goes through this process for an oil change. Why then here in the US are we not having main bearing failures? I haven't seen a post about it? In addition why are there so many flat 4 Subaru's running around with high mileage?

I'm not saying it's a bad ideal, but do you really believe it does any damage and that you are going to spin a bearing if you don't?
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:13 PM   #22
ride5000
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if it bothers you, don't do it.

you have to promise that when you have a bearing problem you'll post about it here though... just so we can add you to the list.

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Old 11-03-2004, 10:21 PM   #23
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I couldn't get teh drain plug out, but I could get the filter off. So, I just cranked the car up and let it run, until all the oil came out from where the filter was. Worked like a charm.
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Old 11-03-2004, 10:30 PM   #24
ride5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdfrk
I couldn't get teh drain plug out, but I could get the filter off. So, I just cranked the car up and let it run, until all the oil came out from where the filter was. Worked like a charm.
is this a troll?

you CAN'T be serious...
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Old 11-04-2004, 12:14 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdfrk
I couldn't get teh drain plug out, but I could get the filter off. So, I just cranked the car up and let it run, until all the oil came out from where the filter was. Worked like a charm.
i remember that thread
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