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Old 03-07-2014, 01:45 PM   #1
loveNWlife
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Default Hella 500ff wired to low beams, not high beams

So I have searched and haven't come up with anything that I was looking for, or maybe I'm just not searching hard enough.

I have Hella 500ff wired up already using the relay and the switch they provided. It is wired directly to the battery. If I forget to turn them off they kill my battery. I want to wire them into my low beams not my high beams as they say to, and still use the switch.

My question is do I wire them up the same as the directions, just splice into the low beam wire instead of the high beam?

Thanks in advance guys. And sorry if this has been gone over before!
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Old 03-07-2014, 08:07 PM   #2
Dutch Scooby lover
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It depends if you want to use the lights all the time or just when using low OR high beam

The latter method:

-Splice a wire into either the high or low beam wire, depending on when you want to be able to use the lights
-Run this inside the cabin to the switch
-Run a wire from the switch to the Hella relay.
-Connect this to terminal 86, connect relay terminal 85 to a ground.
-Connect a fused wire from the battery to terminal 87
-Connect terminal 30 to both the FF500's.
That way the lights can be switched on or off from inside the cabin, but as soon as key is removed the lights go out.
However, it will only work on low or high beam, not both.

This will only work if your lights go out when you remove the key from the ignition (but I believe most Subaru's are set up this way)

If you want to be able to use the 500's independantly of your factory headlights you do not splice into the headlight wires, but use a live only ignition wire (for example the + going to the lighter socket)
That way the lights turn off when you remove the key, but can be turned on without any factory lights working.
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:12 PM   #3
loveNWlife
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So if I follow correctly and want to use them independently I wire it up the same as the high or low beam, but run the power wire from the switch to the cigarette lighter?
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:17 PM   #4
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Right now I have terminal 30 with a fused wire to the battery and 87 to the lights...and the switch is also grounded like hella says. They work when I run the switch power to the battery itself but not when j tried splicing into the low beam. Wonder if mixing the terminals up is my problem...
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:37 PM   #5
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I assume that when you say you are tieing into the low beams you are talking about the lines on the light switch and not to the low beam lights themselves. The switch controls a ground connection for the lights so the relay coil leads 85 and 86 should tie to a power source and the other one to the wire for the low beam wire on the switch. Then the switch will ground the relay coil and close the relay to power the lights.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:12 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cougar4 View Post
I assume that when you say you are tieing into the low beams you are talking about the lines on the light switch and not to the low beam lights themselves. The switch controls a ground connection for the lights so the relay coil leads 85 and 86 should tie to a power source and the other one to the wire for the low beam wire on the switch. Then the switch will ground the relay coil and close the relay to power the lights.
I was splicing into the low beams themselves 😕. Man I hate wiring. I just put them back on to straight battery power for now. Just have to remember to turn them off when I use them... Would love to be able to use them independently like I can now, but to turn off when the ignition is off...even if the switch is still on.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:16 PM   #7
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Then use the wire thats connected to the low beam, and splice it into the cigarette lighter 12v+
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:19 PM   #8
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I usually wire into the parking lights if I want to have something that won't be high beams only. That way you can use them w/ or w/o headlights, w/ low beams and/or w/ high beams.

I typically take 12v signal from the parking light to the signal side of the relay then run the relay's ground wire through the firewall to the switch and then to ground. Easier than running a wire both ways.

the flipside is to run switched power from the interior fuses through the switch to the signal side of the relay and then the relay's ground to the switch ground for the low beams.

Can you tell I hate running (more than 1) wire through the firewall?

Last edited by aerosaaber; 03-07-2014 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:21 PM   #9
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That would also work, and would be less work as well.
However, there would be the possibility of turning on your parking lights (and forgetting to turn of the Hella's) and draining the battery that way.
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Old 03-07-2014, 10:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Scooby lover View Post
That would also work, and would be less work as well.
However, there would be the possibility of turning on your parking lights (and forgetting to turn of the Hella's) and draining the battery that way.
While this is true, I've had 2 subaru's over 6 years and I've only hit that switch accidentally once and I've never used it intentionally.
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Old 03-07-2014, 11:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Scooby lover View Post
Then use the wire thats connected to the low beam, and splice it into the cigarette lighter 12v+
This is the way I would like to do it.

Right now the relay and switch are wired as follows.

Relay:

Pin 30 - to battery with fused wire
Pin 87 - to hella lights
Pin 85 - to ground
Pin 86 - to middle prong on switch

Switch:

Top - ground
Middle - to pin 86 on relay
Bottom - to positive battery terminal

I have complete control of the lights(which I like).

So if I just take the bottom pin from the switch and run it to the cigarette lighter 12v+ the lights will turn off when the ignition is off? Or would I need to re wire some other stuff. I apologize for being difficult man. Just trying to understand. I have no problem doing it once I understand it!
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Old 03-08-2014, 12:26 PM   #12
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If the switch isn't lighted then I don't see why you would need a ground connection to it. Power is just needed to run the relay coil, not a ground connection from the switch.

I think the simplest way to do what you want to do is get a fuse tap and connect it to one of the fuses in the dash that have power cut to them when the ignition is OFF. Most of the fuses in there do that. Tie the new fused end of the tap to one of the switch contacts, say the bottom one. Tie the middle switch contact to pin 85 of the relay coil and pin 86 to ground. Now the lights will turn off with the ignition switch regardless of the switch position.

Last edited by Cougar4; 03-08-2014 at 12:38 PM.
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Old 03-08-2014, 09:08 PM   #13
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As cougar said, you can pull switched power from an "add a fuse" in the fuse panel. I use that to light up the bulb in my boost gauge. It's on when the key is on. I didn't feel like dealing w/ hooking into the gauge cluster lighting since I leave the light switch in the parking light position all the time anyway.
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Old 03-08-2014, 11:06 PM   #14
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Thanks so much for the help guys! Picked up a "add a fuse" and ran it from a 10a fuse under the dash to the switch. Worked great! Still have full control of the lights, and they now turn off with ignition off!
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Old 03-09-2014, 01:44 AM   #15
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now you have acquired the lighting bug. before long you'll be getting a 30" LED light bar and imitating the sun.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerosaaber View Post
now you have acquired the lighting bug. before long you'll be getting a 30" LED light bar and imitating the sun.
LEDs are awesome! I actually work for a company that produces LED industrial light fixtures. Simple wiring tho, no switches and relays! Haha. If anything I will do another set of hella 500ffs.

I actually have a set of hella 1000ff, but on glass is broken, and they are a little bulky for my liking.
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Old 03-09-2014, 03:23 AM   #17
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the (driving beam) 1000ff used to live on my outback
bigger than the 500's? YUP
but simply AWESOME output.

www.rallylights.com might still have single lights to replace the broken one.
OR
mount it in the center like a locomotive
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:47 PM   #18
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I've got the 1000FF's, had the 500's before, the 1000's are much better imho.
Longer throw, wider throw, less hotspots in the beam etc etc.
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Old 03-10-2014, 07:36 PM   #19
loveNWlife
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I completely agree that the 1000ff are better. They were just too bulky for me. The 500ff fit better in my light bar. I am thinking of putting the 1000ff on the top of my bar.
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loveNWlife View Post
I completely agree that the 1000ff are better. They were just too bulky for me. The 500ff fit better in my light bar. I am thinking of putting the 1000ff on the top of my bar.
stop with the thinking and make w/ the putting. you will enjoy it!
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