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Old 11-30-2004, 12:59 AM   #1
wong-wing
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Question valve adjustment on 2.5 sohc

Okay, im sure its posted alot, but does someone who actually knows what they are talking about have the procedure for valve adjustment on the 2.5 sohc? any info would be great.
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:00 AM   #2
Seeinstars
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Set the backlash to around .080 if you I set mine to .0010. I set mine a little looser to be sure that the valves seat really tight so that it makes all the compression I can.
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Old 11-30-2004, 04:33 PM   #3
Section 8
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"Listed below are the steps to set the valve lash on the SOHC EJ25 commonly found in the MY99, MY00, and MY01 2.5RS's. MY98's are totally different, so please don't attempt to set the lash without further instruction.

There are two ways to set the valve lash, one of which takes 2 hours and the other takes about 3 hours. When I first did my cams, I figured that you had to have the timing belt cover off in order to see everything going on with the timing belt (read: timing marks). It helps, but its not necessary. To get the timing belt cover off, you have to remove both radiator fans (two screws at the top and one fan plug on the bottom of each). With those out, you can remove the crank pully by removing the accessory belts, putting your car in 5th gear, standing on the brakes, and having somebody run a long breaker bar. Once the pully is out, you can proceed to remove the 10-15 screws holding the timing belt covers on. From here you can remove your spark plugs and then rotate your motor clockwise with the crankshaft pully bolt. You need line up all the lines on the timing belt gears/pullies to the 12 o'clock position. There should be a timing mark on the gear in the middle and one on each camshaft pully. Now you can remove your valve covers (5 bolts). If the motor has been sitting for a little while, there won't be much oil coming out. With all the lines in 12 o'clock position, your motor should be in top dead center (TDC). This is where all of your cylinders are at rest, but most importantly, cylinder 1 (front passenger side I think, though it says on your coil pack on the intake manifold) is at the top of the compression stroke. This is where you need each cylinder to be when you set the valve lash.

You will need a feeler gauge with .007" and .009". If you don't have one, you can easily pick one up at any autoparts store for a couple bucks. You need to set the valve lash to .007" on the intake side and to .009" on the exhaust side. To do this, you push the feeler gauge in between the valve tappet and the top of the valve. If it is too loose, then you loosen up the 10mm nut on the end of your rocker arm, and with the use of a screwdriver, you can screw the valve tappet down until it is pushing on the feeler gauge. Make sure you still has enough room to move the gauge back and forth, but tight enough that there is not slop if you wiggle the rocker up and down. Now while holding the screwdriver in the slot on the valve tappet (to hold the tappet in place), keeping the feeler gauge under the valve tappet stil, you then screw the 10mm nut back down, securing the valve tappet in place. Recheck the lash with your feeler gauge. If it is still tight, but moderately movable, then you can move on to the next valve; if not, try again. The intake side will be done from the top of the car, and the exhaust side was done with one person below and one person above the car.

Once you have done both the intake and the exhaust side of cylinder #1, you need to rotate the motor slowly clockwise until cylinder #2 (front drivers side) is at the top of the compression stroke. To check this, you just put your hand over the spark plug tube and as the cylinder is coming up, you will feel air pushing on your hand; it will also be giving a hissing sound as air is being pushed around. If you take a flashlight and a mirror and use those to look down into the sparkplug hole, you should be able to see the piston. Once it has stopped moving (top) then you are there. If you wiggle the crankshaft bolt back and forth, you can see where the piston is sitting. Now you repeat the vavle lash procedure for both intake and exhaust side for cylinder #2. Then you cycle the motor over to cyclinder #3 (back passenger side), set the lash, then cycle to cylinder #4 (back drivers side), and set lash.

You are now done with setting the valve lash and you can begin reassembly of the car by putting the valve covers back on, the timing belt cover, the crankshaft pully (torqued back down to 130ft/lbs if its the stock pully), radiator fans, and plugs and wires. Reset your ECU.

The shorter procedure simply bypasses the removal of the timing belt cover. You still have to remove plugs, valve covers, and radiator fans however. Since the crankshaft pully is keyed, it will only go on one way. While rotating the motor around with the spark plugs removed, you should be able to see a little knick or line on the backside of the crankshaft pully. If you watch for the compression on cyl. #1 while rotating the knick up to the top, you should be able to find TDC with the timing belt cover still installed. It should take 720 degrees to rotate the motor through one entire revolution. Once TDC is found, you can follow the steps listed above to set the valve lash then rotate to the next cylinder and repeat.
-Jon
www.nothingserious.net

Trey Cobb's response to the How-To:

Great write-up Stimpy. Here is how we find the position of each cylinder to set lash, which is just slightly different than what Stimpy has written. Setting valve lash on 2.5L SOHC.
1) Remove the radiator overflow bottle.
2) Remove the driver's side section of the timing belt cover (just 3 bolts) to expose the driver's side camshaft sprocket.
3) Remove valve covers and necessary components (we typically pull air filters/boxes and the windshield washer bottle to get better access.)
4) With a 22mm socket and long breaker bar, rotate engine until the ARROW on the driver's side camshaft sprocket is at 12 o'clock (UP). Set the valve lash on the #1 cylinder when camshaft sprocket is in this position.
5) Rotate engine through two revolutions and set ARROW on the camshaft sprocket at 6 o'clock (DOWN). Set the valve lash on the #2 cylinder.
6) Rotate engine again 2 revolutions and set the arrow on the camshaft sprocket at 3 o'clock (RIGHT) (standing in front of engine bay). Set the valve lash on the #3 cylinder.
7) Rotate engine again 2 revolutions and set the arrow on the camshaft sprocket at 9 o'clock (LEFT). Set the valve lash on the #4 cylinder.
8) Put everything back together and test drive. This might be more exact if for some reason you can't tell the exact position of each cylinder. Plus, it makes it easier than pulling all the timing covers off. We rotate the engine 2 rotations to give the cam a full turn (it turns 1/2 speed of the crank) and recheck the lash on the cylinder we just set before going to the next. It's not a requirement, but it's a good QA step. Other than that, the lash adjustments Jon (Stimpy) wrote were dead on. Make sure you keep the feeler gauge on the same "plane" as the top of the valve. If you have it in at an angle, you might set the valve lash too high and it'll be noisy. Take your time, and you'll get it right. It is definitely something you begin to get a feel for after you've done it a few (hundred ) times. Enjoy!
Trey
Cobb Tuning
http://www.cobbtuning.com/ "


It's alot easier with 2 people (three hands). You adjust the lash with a mini screwdriver (a dime will also work but is a pain in the ass to hold on to when it gets oily) and the feeler gauge, while the "3rd hand" tightens the nut when you tell it to.

I got this for 99 cents on the counter of a Sears check out counter. It makes it alot easier.



cheeRS,

Greg

Last edited by Section 8; 11-30-2004 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:25 PM   #4
wong-wing
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Default Thanks for the valve adjustment info

Great information on the valve adjustment, i appreciate it greatly. So the my98 etc had the shims ? thats what i was told about my 01 , which i was hoping was incorrect, because valve shims are a pain in the rear if you dont have a full set of shims, or access to them easily. I shall have to undertake the task of timing belt and valve adjustment next saturday.
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Old 11-30-2004, 10:47 PM   #5
Tim Sanderson
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sohc heads have rocker arms.

Section 8's directions are very good. We cheated when we did his though. When you go to adjust the lash, just make sure the rocker roller is on the cams base circle. No need to remove the timing cover really. A large piece of absorbent material shoved under the head on the x-member should soak up most of the oil.

The engine is supposed to be cold when you do the lash adjustments.
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:29 PM   #6
randy zimmer
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I adjust the intake when the ex. is fully open and vice versa - takes up any slack in the valve train.
I also use guages that are stepped .002 and make a go-no-go.
I can do it a lot quicker than a couple hours.
rz
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Old 01-19-2007, 11:50 AM   #7
Mike1967
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This is great information. I will definitely be doing this procedure when I go to put my engine back together.

And I know I have serious slop in my rockers....I could probably fit a nickel between the end of the rocker and the top of the spring on some of my valves.

But I had no idea that these could be adjusted because I was always told that no adjustments were needed on these valves.
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Sanderson View Post
The engine is supposed to be cold when you do the lash adjustments.
Hey Tim (or anyone else), do you know if this is compensated for in the lash specs.? (i.e., are the specs mentioned above for a cold engine or a hot one)
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:41 AM   #9
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A 3 year bump? wow!

It's been a while since I looked at the text leading into the procedure but IIRC, the FSM calls for setting the lash at room temperature, which would be cold compared to normal operating temps.

I set mine cold. 0.008" intake and 0.010" exhaust, always been good for me.

Jay
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:20 PM   #10
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[quote=Section 8;8239622]"MY98's are totally different, so please don't attempt to set the lash without further instruction.

damned bastard engine
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Old 06-27-2010, 01:24 PM   #11
snoopyone8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
A 3 year bump? wow!
Heehee... yeah, did a bit of searching on this one but couldnt find a solid answer...and I dont have an FSM (it'll be on my wish list this holiday season)

Thanks for the clarification Jay, I really appreciate it!

-adam
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Old 06-28-2010, 05:44 PM   #12
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I have been running .006 in and .008 on my Delta mild grinds for about 2 yrs. now and I think the lash has walked a bit. I think I will give it a try at .008 in and .010 out.
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Old 07-15-2014, 09:06 PM   #13
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super dead thread bump...
My 99 forester (2.5 SOHC) has had a noisy tick ever since i got it, 15k miles ago, at 209k. I just finished doing a valve adjustment. I noticed that all the rocker arms were very tight, so in order to get .007 on the intake and .009 on the exhaust, i had to loosen all of them to get to spec. Well, after my test drive, it seems that 1 side is quieter, but the drivers side is a bit louder than before. I think i need to redo the process on the drivers side next week, but im not sure whether i should go tighter or looser (than .007 & .009) because it was noisy before (it was probably at .003) and is louder now that its at .007

Anyone have an idea, before I buy another set of heads? The car drives great but i hate the ticking!
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:01 PM   #14
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Its .008 and .010, and every Subaru engine gets noisy well before 200k. I wouldnt go buying anything new on account of that.
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Old 07-15-2014, 10:38 PM   #15
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well why do you suppose it got better on one side and worse on the other, after the adjustment?
also, is it normal for the valves to tighten over time? going into the job, i figured i was going to have to tighten them, not loosen them
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Old 09-18-2014, 11:32 PM   #16
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OK so apparently i just botched the valve job the first time i attempted it. It was my first time using a feeler gauge, i thought i adjusted them to spec, but i thought wrong.
I re-adjusted them today with some help... The stupid loud ticking noise is almost completely gone, and to top it off, my car is much faster, and is way more peppy. Didn't realize how much the valve lash affects horsepower!
Thanks for this write-up!!
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