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Old 07-01-2001, 03:37 AM   #1
ToJo
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Default Incredible Hulk installed my wife's oil filter

Anyone else have a problem doing the first oil change on their car because of an over torqued filter? I tried bare hands, 2 different filter socket wrenches, finally had to go buy a band-style wrench for the filter on my wife's Legacy GT. Mine wasn't anywhere near this hard.
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Old 07-01-2001, 04:02 AM   #2
Kostamojen
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Lou Ferigino installed your oil filter?
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Old 07-01-2001, 05:24 AM   #3
XT6Wagon
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One fram "welded" itself to my nice $10,000 SHO engine. With the strap wrench I turned the end of it a full turn w/o the base moving. Finaly I got a BFS and used a BFH to nail it through the oil filter near the base. Using that as a handle I broke it free. I was very happy when that worked. I now use only motorcraft of Mobil 1 as they don;t pull stunts like that and they can handle the stock output of the oil pump which the fram can't.
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Old 07-01-2001, 05:57 AM   #4
Andrew
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My filter was on there pretty tight and James (RS25.com) and I had to take a screw driver and just punch a hole in it. We were going to use that as a handle but after that it was loose.
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Old 07-01-2001, 09:24 AM   #5
motorob
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Better than a screwdriver is to use a big pair of ChannelLock pliers. I know a couple of professional techs who use them as their main oil filter wrenches.
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Old 07-01-2001, 09:49 AM   #6
bender
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it get like that sometimes if the person that install the oil filter doesn't lube up seal with oil before putting it on
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Old 07-01-2001, 12:37 PM   #7
Peaty
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I'm getting a lot of use out of this pic lately:

Get one of these:



Peaty
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Old 07-01-2001, 01:40 PM   #8
ColinL
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even that tool won't save you when you have an incident like XT6 talked about. I've had two that wouldn't come off even when you put the punch/screwdriver through the filter. the next step is cutting away the whole filter body and removing the screw-in boss itself... fun stuff.
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Old 07-02-2001, 06:59 PM   #9
FletchMY98
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Hey Peaty,

Who makes that filter wrench. It looks like it fits onto a ratchet wrench. Let us know.

Chris
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Old 07-02-2001, 07:14 PM   #10
Peaty
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It will fit on a 3/8ths drive, Mine is by KD tools but I've seen others. I got it at a local autoparts store. I'm pretty sure nappa has them.
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Old 07-02-2001, 07:29 PM   #11
ChosenWon
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That is nice. I have only seen the plastic/ resin kind. I wonder if that would be small enough for the wix filter though....

Between all the filters I try and the wife's car, that would not be a bad investment. Now all I have to do is convince myself to walk into a Napa store....
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Old 07-02-2001, 07:43 PM   #12
Peaty
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I use the WIX 51365 filters and I can say first hand it fits. I saw one at the local AutoZone too I think. Mine is like 11 years old and works like a champ.
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Old 07-02-2001, 07:55 PM   #13
ChosenWon
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Cool, I will keep an eye out for it. I run the same filter. What oil do you use Peaty?
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Old 07-02-2001, 07:59 PM   #14
Peaty
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Moble 1 for me, here is a saved message about oil from another list I was on that I thought was interesting:


Dear Glenn and List,

I am a chemist with extensive experience in synthetic lubricants. I would
strongly recommend waiting to close to 10,000 miles prior to putting in
synthetic to allow good seating of rings, bore and bearings. Give it 2-3
changes of mineral oil in this timeframe, THEN install the synthetic. Don't
believe what Mobil 1 says about breakin periods not being necessary; you want to
PROMOTE wear to smooth out microscopic peaks and valleys which are still
present even after machining with the most precise tooling in the world. You
have to think in terms of what is happening on a molecular level! 1,000, 3,000,
5,000 miles isn't really sufficient to wear down these microscopic peaks/ridges.

On your question on of Mobil 1 vs. Redline, without a doubt Redline provides
superior
temperature range performance, sludge removal, load bearing capacity, and
antiwear properties because it uses a polyol ester basestock versus a poly-alpha
oliphin (PAO) basestock. Mobil 1 is based on a long chain molecule, Redline is
closer to a microscopic "ball". The ability of the "ball" to roll inside bearing
surfaces vs the ability of the non-branched chains to slip by each other is what
gives the Redline basestock its superior performance, especially since the
additive packages are basically the same.

On the practical side, Redline costs almost 2x more, at least for me (perhaps
others on the list can get cost estimates for Redline from around the country; I
haven't found a good price in NJ). Since I follow the Ford drain interval
recommendations of 5,000 mis, I personally run Mobil 1 in my '95 Contour SE. I
could run longer drain intervals now that I am out of warrantee, but I am
obsessive about my car and go with the shorter drain interval.

Hope this helps!
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