Generally I do not recommend doing roofs as the gain is not as much as the rest of the install compared to cost and effort. But, I do them on competition installs and it does pay off for them as well as would be an improvement in your car.
That said, there is alot of area up there to cover depending on the car some more than others. If you follow my install guide below you will probably need more than two rolls, closer to 3 rolls of mat and I would use the ensolite everywhere as well, 6 yards should do it. If you have access to a very good quality contact cement in a commercial size container and a spray gun for it that is the best for installing the foam, if not I sell the best spray can glue I have ever found and I have tested them all.
Here is my maximum recommendation for an all out install:
3 rolls of RAAMmat60 BXT $89.00 each 267.00
6 yards of Ensolite foam at $9.95 each 59.70
3 cans of adhesive at $8.95 each 26.85
UPS ground shipping at my actual cost 28.78
Total, CA sales tax not included $391.33
If you want to cut back a bit and I garantee still get a tremendous improvement then this will do it and would be my normal recommendation.
2 rolls of BXT 178.00
4 yards of ensolite 39.80 (one more yard is not a bad idea though)
2 cans of glue 17.90
UPS ground 17.11
Total w/o tax $252.81
Let me know if you need any more info, another quote, etc, best to use email though, email@example.com
Here is what I recommend, this is from years of experience and alot of customer feedback, it works very well.
-Front doors, doors with speakers, remove door panel and plastic moisture barier, toss it in the trash.
-One layer of mat on most of the outer door skin, overlap the seems, add two more smaller layers, about 12" sq, behind the speakers. Then the same size piece of close cell foam on top of those layers(ensulite foam is best.
-Check for loose wires, cables, etc, inside the door, secure with foam tape, tie wraps, etc. build up the speaker mounting location by making a solid baffel that you can screw to the door then the speakers to it, MDF works great and easy to work with.
-Seal up the door access holes with a piece of tin, I use perforated aluminum, this gives the next layer of mat something to stick to and tightens up the midbass response.
-Install one layer of mat over the inner door metal, seal all air passages possible, cut the mat back around 1" from edge of door panel.
-Add a layer of 1/8" close cell foam, ensulite again is best but hard to find, to the top of the mat, cut around all mounting points, same for the mat, to make sure the door panel will fit back on ok, cut back around 1/2" from edge of panel.
-Tap on the back of the door panel, being plastic it will have resonate areas. Add patches of mat to those areas until it sounds deadened, usually about 1/4 to 1/3 of the surface is enough, install the panel and test the the door, slam it a few times and listen for rattles, etc.
Rear doors, as the front, if they have speakers in them.
Doors without speakers, just mat the inner door metal, covering the access holes, like above no need to mat the outer door skin.
Rear side panels, outer metal skin, foam, varies from vehicle to vehicle, try to seal up the best you can like the doors.
Rear hatch, same as above.
Floor, One layer everywhere, tap on the floor and add a second and sometims a third layer to the resonate areas only, any more is a waste of mat and effort, once and area is deadened, there is nothing more to gain with adding more mat.
-Some tend to over use the mat in some areas and not enough in others.
-Add a layer of 1/4" close cell foam or two layers of 1/8" then the factory carpet, done!
Doors, I usually add a 1" sq steel thin wall tube behind the speaker baffle, mounted diagonally, I use self taping screws to drill through the factory inner door metal and into the tubing. This really stiffens up the speaker mounting area and improves midbass response.
If you want to go all out on the floor, you can add do a layering effect over the really resonate areas of the floor. One layer of mat, a layer of foam, another layer of mat then another layer of foam, only use 1/8" foam so the floor does not get to high for the carpets to fit back in. This method will absorb even more accoustical energy but mainly used for all out comp car installs.
Roof, not usually needed, least results, alot of effort, once the rest is done, test and decide what to do. On a black or very dark vehicle, a tremendous amount of heat build up can occur on the roof, one layer is the maximum I would use the cover it then add a solid layer of close cell foam.
If you have an exceptionally loud exhaust and or tires, they are the worst offenders as they permeate the air around the vehicle and penetrate from many areas. Sometimes they have to be changed no matter how well matted, just want you to be aware of this issue.