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Old 12-04-2004, 06:20 PM   #1
theicewall
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Default Hella AUX. Wiring help (I have done a search)

I did a search, and most people are wiring their driving lights to come on when the switch is on and when their brights are on. I have Hella driving beam lights and would like them to only come on when they are switched on regardless of what my stock lighting is doing. How can I use the stock wiring harness to accomplish this, and what do I do with the damn 56a wire that is supposed to go from a stock light's power source to the switch. Can I pick an alternate wire that always has power and then use the Hella switch to directly control the Aux. Lights independently of lowbeam/ highbeam and if so what wire would that be, and how do I find it?

ps- they are Hella FF50's... i have two sets of them in the grills of my 04 that I will wire separately and have on separate switches.
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Old 12-05-2004, 02:47 AM   #2
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Easiest way.

1 Wire goes from 12V source to switch, then to the relay
Another wire goes from the battery, then to the relay, then to the lights (complete circuit).

Basically, if you want the lights 100% independant of everything (including the ignition) you just run all your power straight from the battery.
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Old 12-05-2004, 02:50 AM   #3
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On the relay provided with the kit, there are 4 connections. Two feed power to the aux lights. Two others connect to a manual switch and the oem low/high beams (although this scheme does not work on systems with switched ground system like the oem Subaru).

To make such a wiring work independently of the low/high beams, all you need to do is connect the wire that was originally intended to connect to the low/high beam, and connect it to a +12V source. What this does is whenever the manual switch is turned on, the relay will allow power to be supplied to the aux lights. Originally, when the switch is turned on, if the end that connects to the low/high beam is high (+12V), then power will be supplied to the aux lights. Otherwise, nothing happens even if the manual switch is turned on.

[Edit: DDman beat me to it. Here's a helpful diagram from www.rallylights.com: http://www.rallylights.com/useful_in...amp_wiring.htm ]

Last edited by satrya; 12-05-2004 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 12-05-2004, 06:38 PM   #4
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I dont really understand that diagram that well... the relay is the dotted square? The control wire off pin 86 is what is confusing me. I want lights that will not go on if my lights arent on (at least parking lights) and wont go on if only DRL are on. I also want to be able to use the in cabin hella switch to turn the lights on and off manually if my parking or headlamps are on. I want the driving lamps to remain on once manually switched on regardless of whether im on low beam or high beam.

What wire on the wrx should I tap as a 12v source to gain this control. Is there a wire off the parking lamps that I could tap and if so where could I find it, what color is the wire, etc? It would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-05-2004, 09:27 PM   #5
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Hmmm, well you COULD do what I did and run it off the "+" of the illumination circuit, but that is kinda risky (but will insure the lights are on only when your parking lights are on). Although relays use VERY little power, it still could overload the illumination circuit/fuse.

You then can put a switch on that wire (the one tapped from the illumination switch) to control when the lights are on or off.

Like I said before though, if you want complete control over the lights, just take the wire from 86, and run it from a PERMINANT 12V source (like the battery) along with a switch. Then you can control the lights 100% independant of anything else.
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Old 12-05-2004, 10:30 PM   #6
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I'm a bit confused because to me, the statements from post #1 & 4 below seem to be different.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theicewall, post#1
I have Hella driving beam lights and would like them to only come on when they are switched on regardless of what my stock lighting is doing.
The one from #1 sounds like an independent wiring, and could be resolved per DDman's recommendation of connecting pin 86 to a constant +12V power source.
Quote:
Originally Posted by theicewall, post#4
I want lights that will not go on if my lights arent on (at least parking lights) and wont go on if only DRL are on.
The one from #4 seem to be more along DDman's other suggestion of using the illumination wire, although I too share the concern of excessive current draw. If you're not pulling illumination wire for anything else, then it would probably be fine imho.
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Old 12-05-2004, 11:10 PM   #7
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Yes, you'll want a completely independent harness and just run a switch into the cabin to activate the lamps. This is how mine work. As long as the ignition is on i can flip the lamps on.
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Old 12-06-2004, 10:35 AM   #8
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I think i wasnt sure which way i wanted it exactly, but i thought it might be cooler if parking lights had to be on so that I didnt leave it on by accident. But I agree that it is safer for the electrical system if i just tap the 12v source from the battery.

Do I need a fuse off the battery to prevent any additional current than what is safe for the lighting system (wires and harness) or is the supplied relay sufficient.
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Old 12-06-2004, 10:45 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theicewall
I think i wasnt sure which way i wanted it exactly, but i thought it might be cooler if parking lights had to be on so that I didnt leave it on by accident.
For this argument, you could also tap the switched power source instead of connecting pin 86 directly to the +12V on the battery. The switched power source goes high only when the key is in the ignition and turned to at least the 1st position (iirc) from the 0 position.
Quote:
Do I need a fuse off the battery to prevent any additional current than what is safe for the lighting system (wires and harness) or is the supplied relay sufficient.
The wiring harness of aux lighting kits I've seen always come with their own fuse, which should be more than sufficient. Those usually protect only the power side (which involves pins 30 & 87), but not the signal side (pins 85 & 86). If you're worried about the signal side overloading existing circuitry (mentioned by DDman on post#5), then you could add a fuse for the signal side as well.
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Old 12-24-2004, 01:16 PM   #10
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Okay, so i decided to wire both power sources from the battery to give me independent control, but I have a new problem. I can switch the lights on and nothing happens, so I decide to investigate. If the switch is on, and I hold the power supply lead that goes from the battery (usually from inverted light source) to the switch on the positive lead of the battery, the lights turn on. If i have my friend turn the switch off and then back on, the lights do not turn back on. I have a crimped ring terminal that I then soldered to ensure a good connection on the end of the power wire, so I doubt its a bad connection there. Does this sound like a grounding issue? I have one ground to the battery, one ground at the factory ground location, and the switch itself grounded to the body at the ebrake handle under the console because hella only gave me 8" of grounding wire from the switch. This sucks because I really want my lights to turn on and off everytime i switch them on and off. On a side note, the green LED on the switch stays lit whenever the lead is connected even though the lights do not turn back on.
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Old 12-24-2004, 07:05 PM   #11
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someone's got his wires crossed.

Someone else draw him a diagram. I would but I dont know what I'm talking about when it comes to relays.

http://danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html <--for a quick how-to on relays.

Basically, from what I can deduce...

+ side of battery -> fuse -> 30 on relay
87 on relay -> + side of lights
+ side of battery -> switch -> 86 on relay
85 on relay -> ground

and it should work independently of your regular lights.

Again, this is going by a simplified version of the above link.

Last edited by tooocool49723; 12-24-2004 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 12-24-2004, 08:47 PM   #12
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Basically all the kit is looking for is a 12 volt source through a single wire after being wired up per the directions.. If you hooked up the kit, as directed, including the provided switch wouldn't it be possible to simply use a separate switch to provide that wire with 12 volts? The switch that came with the kit would simply be just be left on. Wouldn't that work?
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Old 12-24-2004, 08:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brunetmj
Basically all the kit is looking for is a 12 volt source through a single wire after being wired up per the directions.. If you hooked up the kit, as directed, including the provided switch wouldn't it be possible to simply use a separate switch to provide that wire with 12 volts? The switch that came with the kit would simply be just be left on. Wouldn't that work?
If your leaving the switch on... why not simply bypass it. which defeats the whole purpose.
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Old 12-24-2004, 09:17 PM   #14
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Quote:
If your leaving the switch on... why not simply bypass it. which defeats the whole purpose.
Ok lets start from the beginning. If you installed the entire kit , one wire with a fuse goes to the positive of the battery. A second wire goes to ground and 3 other wires go to a switch , provided by hella, which is installed in the passenger compartment. At this point this only leaves one unconnected wire. This wire is suppose to go to a positive
high beam or low beam wire.(which of course subaru doesn't have). So if the hella switch was left on and a second switch provided power to that last wire wouldn't the lights be controlled by the 2nd switch? Not suggesting this is the best way but just asking if it would work.
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Old 12-25-2004, 01:25 AM   #15
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If all the last wire needs, which is a green wire that goes directly to the switch, is a 12v source, then why isnt connecting it to the battery working predictably? I couldn't have reversed my wires because they are all color coded. The lights have a blue and black wire (blue = pos.) and they connect to blue and black wires respectively (blue to relay, and black to ground). the relay has a red wire, a green wire, and another black wire. Red to positive terminal, green to switch, and black to ground. The switch has two other slots than for the relay's green wire, the second green wire is the power supply wire that was supposed to connect to the inverted source eg. the brights, which I substituted that connection with a connection to the battery positive terminal. The black wire from the switch is connected to a ground in the passenger comparement but im thinking of vampire tapping that ground back to a better ground.

Im hoping its a polarity issue from not having a sufficient ground, if not, im going to play around with the connections to the switch to make sure they are all correct because nothing else could really be wrong, there was only one way to do it.

Also, the LED in the switch is always lit. I dont know if its only supposed to be lit when on, but its always lit, which leads me to believe that perhaps i have the connections to the switch backwards or something like that.
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Old 12-25-2004, 06:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theicewall
The switch has two other slots than for the relay's green wire, the second green wire is the power supply wire that was supposed to connect to the inverted source eg. the brights, which I substituted that connection with a connection to the battery positive terminal. The black wire from the switch is connected to a ground in the passenger comparement but im thinking of vampire tapping that ground back to a better ground.
On the switch, double check that (as you said you were going to do).

After thinking for a while, you say you have a green input from the battery, a green output for the relay, and a ground?

Disconnect the ground.

I'm guessing that the switch is supposed to control only the on/off of the power wire, and that the ground from the relay is the only one. The extra ground is grounding out the switch, causing the light to always stay lit.

Use a test light to see what is what on the switch. I'm guessing there are 3 prongs on the switch, and that the middle one is the "input" and the other 2 are "outputs" for either position of the switch.

Last edited by tooocool49723; 12-25-2004 at 06:19 PM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 12:56 AM   #17
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okay, so when i switched the green wires it then melted a green wire a little bit and it was because I was directly connecting the positive battery terminal to the car.. so i replaced that wire and then ran a different ground from the switch to the negative terminal and they work. The original ground wasnt good enough to polarize the relay, when I grounded it back to the negative terminal it made the relay function as it should.

Last edited by theicewall; 12-30-2004 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:41 PM   #18
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So then this would be the diagram them using Hella colors.. sorry i dont know how to make it bigger

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