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Old 12-19-2004, 07:25 PM   #1
txl146
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Default Way to reduce exhaust noise coming into cabin area

I have BPM-GT TBE and it is just way too loud. Covering what areas would help reduce noise coming into the cabin area the most?

- door panels
- trunk areas w/ w/o trunk lids?
- floors
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Old 12-19-2004, 08:25 PM   #2
garie
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raammat the trunk, trunk lid. i think you would feel the most difference there...considering the exhaust is in the back of the car. The doors and roof also help alot, but also keep in mind you are adding lbs to the car when you do this.

the floor already has some sound deadening, but i think adding sound deadening there would help too. I didnt do the floor because I was too lazy to take out the seats and carpet.
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Old 12-19-2004, 09:32 PM   #3
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none of that is gonna do much good. yea if u do the door panels, headliner, trunk, and floor you're gonna have a quieter car but your exaust will still come right through. Bottom line, if your exaust is too loud now its gonna stay too loud no matter how much sound proofing you do, maybe look into getting a new exaust if it bothers you that much (if its really that unbearable inside the cabin it must be pretty bad outside too, i dont know where your from but here its impossible to drive with a loud exaust and not get hassled)
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by txl146
I have BPM-GT TBE and it is just way too loud. Covering what areas would help reduce noise coming into the cabin area the most?

- door panels
- trunk areas w/ w/o trunk lids?
- floors
Have you considered attacking the problem from the other direction? It would probably be much easier. I had a HKS Hiper cat-back which was too loud once I did up/dp. I found someone on the local forum to trade my HKS for a Greddy Evo. Didn't really cost me money, wasn't much effort and my neighbors thank me.
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Old 12-19-2004, 11:26 PM   #5
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raamat will help a little. I basically did the whole car with a layer of ensolite foam and I mainly noticed reduced road noise. The exhaust was still pretty loud.

I have a vishnu turboback exhaust and had a muffler shop put flanges on my stock muffler and also a dynomax muffler. I can now switch all three around pretty easily if I wanted to. If I'm going on a long road trip I will put my stock muffler on and that makes it really quiet inside the car compared to the aftermarket mufflers I have.

You can also look into material designed to block noises. Sometimes its made out of lead. But I think the muffler itself is your best bet...
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Old 12-20-2004, 08:36 AM   #6
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1 layer of dynamat on the entire floor of the passenger compartment, and 4 layers across the trunk floor. ALOT quieter. maybe that's why dynamat is more expensive. it works.(put on flame suit) honestly, with borla headers, stromung cat-back, random tech high flow cat, and stage II heads, the car is insanely loud outside for an N/A car, but there's no droning on the highway, and at cruising speed (70-80) it's quiet enough to carry on a conversation without having to raise your voice.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost-Free Subee
1 layer of dynamat on the entire floor of the passenger compartment, and 4 layers across the trunk floor. ALOT quieter. maybe that's why dynamat is more expensive. it works.(put on flame suit) honestly, with borla headers, stromung cat-back, random tech high flow cat, and stage II heads, the car is insanely loud outside for an N/A car, but there's no droning on the highway, and at cruising speed (70-80) it's quiet enough to carry on a conversation without having to raise your voice.
I doubt thats dynamat is more expensive. Dynamat/Raamat is designed to stop panels or whatever else its attached to stop rattleling noises when your music is playing. Its not really designed to block noises comming into the car. But maybe after 4 layers it does the trick
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:10 AM   #8
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Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator to drop the volume, its less than fifty bucks to do.


Hey dust, that's one way of dealing with it. I'm too busy. Have you looked at the Borla Hush btw?
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Old 12-20-2004, 11:38 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dust12
I doubt thats dynamat is more expensive. Dynamat/Raamat is designed to stop panels or whatever else its attached to stop rattleling noises when your music is playing. Its not really designed to block noises comming into the car. But maybe after 4 layers it does the trick
having been a dynamat dealer on and off for almost 10 years, i would have to say that you are misinformed about the job that dynamat can perform. It was actually invented for the specific purpose of quieting down the interior of a car, before the car audio market even came to be. Dynamat takes any acoustical/kinetic energy it sees, and instead of trying to deaden it, converts the energy into low-level thermal energy, which is much more effective than trying to absorb it completely. vibration from panels due to an audio system come from what? acoustical energy, converted to kinetic energy when the panel starts to resonate. no difference. it simply requires slightly more to accomplish the job. Having dynamatted vehicles numbering over 100 (i've lost count at this point) I would say that it is probably one of the biggest differences you can do for a quieter ride. But since most people don't go to that extreme, they probably wouldn't know that.
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Old 12-20-2004, 12:51 PM   #10
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[quote=thesmokingman]Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator to drop the volume, its less than fifty bucks to do.
[quote]

Exactly what I was going to say. I had a straight-through 2.25" Arospeed exhaust and it was killing me, I had my exhaust shop weld in a cheap resonator and it tok care of about 50% of the really offensive noise.
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Old 12-20-2004, 01:27 PM   #11
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Whats the point of a free flowing exhuast if your going to stuff it with a resonator?
Seems to me it might be best to just use a quiter muffler or even the factory exhuast.

If you cover the trunk entire floor and the trunk lid and sides with atleast one layer, although I would lay a few in the trunk Like boost free mentioned, then you should be good to go. Also, don't overlook the under carpet pading that you can get a the Depot either. I can be used under the carpet to help suck up some of that sound too.
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Old 12-20-2004, 01:53 PM   #12
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A resonator doesn't slow down flow by any large percentage, by widening the pipe and putting insulating materials around the area it changes the pitch of the exhaust note to a deeper tone. It also eliminates more noise by reflection of sound waves inside the chamber, it doesn't distrupt flow. If you don't believe me look through one, it's still straight through... its not like you're adding a catalytic convertor.

And the home depot carpet padding idea does nothing, that was my first attempt before adding a resonator, all it became was a big heap that I had to throw away in time.
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Old 12-20-2004, 09:15 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesmokingman
Have a muffler shop weld in a resonator to drop the volume, its less than fifty bucks to do.


Hey dust, that's one way of dealing with it. I'm too busy. Have you looked at the Borla Hush btw?
I didn't really look into the Borla Hush because I didn't want to buy a whole new cat back setup, plus the way the vishnu was designed it wouldn't have fit anyways without having a muffler shop modify it.

If you do a search for posts by Blackie for mufflers I got the same one as him and its pretty quiet. Not as quiet as the stock wrx muffler but its atleast bearable while driving down the freeway.

I believe Vishnu uses a magnaflow muffler and that one kind've droned on the freeway and I was getting tired of it. If I ever do a track event or such I'll swap it back in though because I'm sure it flows the best.
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Old 12-20-2004, 09:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dust12
raamat will help a little. I basically did the whole car with a layer of ensolite foam and I mainly noticed reduced road noise. The exhaust was still pretty loud.

I have a vishnu turboback exhaust and had a muffler shop put flanges on my stock muffler and also a dynomax muffler. I can now switch all three around pretty easily if I wanted to. If I'm going on a long road trip I will put my stock muffler on and that makes it really quiet inside the car compared to the aftermarket mufflers I have.

You can also look into material designed to block noises. Sometimes its made out of lead. But I think the muffler itself is your best bet...
where did you buy ensolite foam?
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost-Free Subee
1 layer of dynamat on the entire floor of the passenger compartment, and 4 layers across the trunk floor. ALOT quieter. maybe that's why dynamat is more expensive. it works.(put on flame suit) honestly, with borla headers, stromung cat-back, random tech high flow cat, and stage II heads, the car is insanely loud outside for an N/A car, but there's no droning on the highway, and at cruising speed (70-80) it's quiet enough to carry on a conversation without having to raise your voice.
I can't help but think that all the power that you gained from performance parts is now being used to push all that extra weight? Dynamat isn't light.
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:43 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jejunum
where did you buy ensolite foam?
I bought it from Rick at raamaudio
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Old 12-20-2004, 10:46 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost-Free Subee
having been a dynamat dealer on and off for almost 10 years, i would have to say that you are misinformed about the job that dynamat can perform. It was actually invented for the specific purpose of quieting down the interior of a car, before the car audio market even came to be. Dynamat takes any acoustical/kinetic energy it sees, and instead of trying to deaden it, converts the energy into low-level thermal energy, which is much more effective than trying to absorb it completely. vibration from panels due to an audio system come from what? acoustical energy, converted to kinetic energy when the panel starts to resonate. no difference. it simply requires slightly more to accomplish the job. Having dynamatted vehicles numbering over 100 (i've lost count at this point) I would say that it is probably one of the biggest differences you can do for a quieter ride. But since most people don't go to that extreme, they probably wouldn't know that.

ditto. ive been a dynamat dealer for quite some time. i auditioned several other deadeners (not rammat...i need to check that out tho) and they did not come close to the performance of dynamat.

like all things its all about the application. do it right & it works (amazing, i know) do it wrong & it doesnt work.
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Old 12-21-2004, 01:52 AM   #18
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One of the lines in my general sound deadening install guide, developed over many years and thousands of installs I have done, been involved in, feedback on, etc, etc.

"If you have an exceptionally loud exhaust and or tires, they are the worst offenders as they permeate the air around the vehicle and penetrate from many areas. Sometimes they have to be changed no matter how well matted, just want you to be aware of this issue."

No mat can cure that issue, nor Ensolite or any other product, I wish they could, would be great for all of us. I have personally added resonators to see if I could drop it lower or move the resonate frequency outside the crusing RPM and had good luck with that. I have also replaced intire exhaust systems as nothing else worked.

Sincerly,
Rick
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Old 12-21-2004, 02:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kochj23
I can't help but think that all the power that you gained from performance parts is now being used to push all that extra weight? Dynamat isn't light.
I'm carrying an extra 80lbs of audio crap in back. A few more pounds of sound deadening doesn't really matter now does it? Especially not, when you've got 300 ft/lbs to the wheels.
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Old 12-21-2004, 11:33 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost-Free Subee
Dynamat takes any acoustical/kinetic energy it sees, and instead of trying to deaden it, converts the energy into low-level thermal energy, which is much more effective than trying to absorb it completely.
<---------- refers to first law of thermodynamics.


ANYTHING that "absorbs" noise is converting it into thermal energy. Shock absorbers convert road bumps into thermal energy. Brakes convert forward motion into thermal energy. The energy conversion you describe is the ONLY way to "absorb" noise.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:46 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boost-Free Subee
Dynamat takes any acoustical/kinetic energy it sees, and instead of trying to deaden it, converts the energy into low-level thermal energy, which is much more effective than trying to absorb it completely. vibration from panels due to an audio system come from what? acoustical energy, converted to kinetic energy when the panel starts to resonate.
Oh my dear GOD.

"Acoustical"? Kinetic? Energy conversion into thermal gobbledigook?

Please, stick to selling Dynamat and stop trying to explain the "physics" involved. Marketing pamphlets rarely get the science right.

Just my $0.02
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:50 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Porter
Oh my dear GOD.

"Acoustical"? Kinetic? Energy conversion into thermal gobbledigook?

Please, stick to selling Dynamat and stop trying to explain the "physics" involved. Marketing pamphlets rarely get the science right.

Just my $0.02
I'm making a new kind of noise killing mat that converts acoustical energy into tiny pink bunnies.
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