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Old 12-21-2004, 07:07 PM   #1
2002WRXSTi
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Default Question to all those with Modded injectors and cold starting?

If this post ain't in the right place move it but it seemed to be the place to ask others about there modded injectors?

So I have a set of em obviously and I have an auto start in my car, nice thing in the winter I gotta say. So I went to start it yesterday on a like 9 degree morn and the car didn't start

Figured I left it in gear so it doesn't start Go on out and put the key in and it wouldn't start. Just cranked over for a bit. So I floored the gas while cranking it and it finally lit but, man it almost was stalling so I had to keep giving it a bit of throttle till it got a some heat into the heads.

It started this morn but, I heard the engine strugling a bit till it got some heat into the valves at least.

So I'm curious if anyone else has had any experiences now that the cold is here
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Old 12-21-2004, 09:59 PM   #2
jaxscuby
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can you list more about your mods?
ecu?
ok modded injectors..
fuel pump?
you get it..do you have the supporting mods
to run the injectors correctly?
what type of oil? 5w-30 5w-40 10w-30?
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Old 12-21-2004, 10:09 PM   #3
2002WRXSTi
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Yeah sure ...
RA Spec-C
QuickTime Header
FP Green
UTEC
Modded Stockers
Walbro FP
Turbo-XS FMIC
Sunoco 93 380WHP

Forget what oil I have in it but it is a lighter wieght...

There are no tumblers on my engine which may ad a bit to the cold weather suckiness
Runs like crap till there is some heat in the engine tho
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Old 12-22-2004, 07:58 AM   #4
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check your fuel trims with an obd2 scanner.
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Old 12-22-2004, 08:38 AM   #5
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Hey Tad.
I dont know if it's normal or not but my car runs pretty crappy on cold starts with the modded injectors as well. It starts and it runs but my idle is really wobbly(for lack of a better word).
Before you had this starting problem, how was the start up/idle?
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Old 12-22-2004, 08:42 AM   #6
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That is not going to do anything for me. I am trying to see if anyone out there also has modded injectors and what kind of extremely cold start issuse they are having?

I have already richened the idle fuel parameters up when it was done originally. Now that the temps have taken a extreme dive the modded injectors do not atomize the fuel so it is a PITA.

I am starting to think I am the only damn one with modded injectors that actually is daily driving the car
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Old 12-22-2004, 08:45 AM   #7
2002WRXSTi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b0dh1
Hey Tad.
I dont know if it's normal or not but my car runs pretty crappy on cold starts with the modded injectors as well. It starts and it runs but my idle is really wobbly(for lack of a better word).
Before you had this starting problem, how was the start up/idle?
It was fine, then I went with the 10 pound flywheel settup and it threw some cell's but Junior fixed that pretty much.

Now it's just in the extreme cold it don't want to start and really is crappy untill there is heat in the engine.
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:09 AM   #8
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For what it's worth, I have modded stockers (829cc) and RA-C TGV deletes and the car started right up when we had a couple of single digit/low double digit days and nights.
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Old 12-22-2004, 10:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02R6
For what it's worth, I have modded stockers (829cc) and RA-C TGV deletes and the car started right up when we had a couple of single digit/low double digit days and nights.
How is it that your modded stockers are 829cc?
I am wondering if I got a bad tank of gas then? It did start this morning but it wasn't as cold as the 9degree's it was the day it gave me problems
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Old 12-22-2004, 11:02 AM   #10
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why are you being ignorant? check the fuel trims.

the car runs OPEN LOOP for a few seconds on startup. why? because the o2 sensor isn't up to temp yet.

during that time, it's using the MAF sensor and the LTFT to run the car. if the LTFT is pegged in either direction, the car runs like poop. as well, most agree that the car runs better with the LTFT pulling fuel instead of adding it... ie LTFT is negative, not positive.

but whatever. you seem to know everything. funny--you're the one whose car doesn't run right.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:13 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000
why are you being ignorant? check the fuel trims.

the car runs OPEN LOOP for a few seconds on startup. why? because the o2 sensor isn't up to temp yet.

during that time, it's using the MAF sensor and the LTFT to run the car. if the LTFT is pegged in either direction, the car runs like poop. as well, most agree that the car runs better with the LTFT pulling fuel instead of adding it... ie LTFT is negative, not positive.

but whatever. you seem to know everything. funny--you're the one whose car doesn't run right.
I am having the same problem and my stft stay between -.8 and -1.5 at idle. Odd thing is, my ltft never seem to drop into the negatives.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:15 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000
why are you being ignorant? check the fuel trims.

the car runs OPEN LOOP for a few seconds on startup. why? because the o2 sensor isn't up to temp yet.

during that time, it's using the MAF sensor and the LTFT to run the car. if the LTFT is pegged in either direction, the car runs like poop. as well, most agree that the car runs better with the LTFT pulling fuel instead of adding it... ie LTFT is negative, not positive.

but whatever. you seem to know everything. funny--you're the one whose car doesn't run right.
Ouch, ride5000 is right though. Modded injectors require additional tuning of the 0% column and the use of the coolant temperature compensation feature of the UTEC. A combination of these will produce a car that starts in the morning and runs well at temperature.

To fine tune these things right you have to monitor the Long Term and Short Term fuel trims. This data is the key to tuning for larger injectors. Once you know what they are doing you can modify your map and account for different senarios.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:17 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el~sharko
I am having the same problem and my stft stay between -.8 and -1.5 at idle. Odd thing is, my ltft never seem to drop into the negatives.
I say between +-7 is pretty good. What is the LT doing?

FYI - Their is another parameter that effects fueling in the ECU that requires an ECU reset to clear (STI only).
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick_the_ginge
I say between +-7 is pretty good. What is the LT doing?

FYI - Their is another parameter that effects fueling in the ECU that requires an ECU reset to clear (STI only).
When I start the car up, the STFT goes right to -.8 for a while. Then the LTFT will start dropping from the +teens and settle around +10ish.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:40 PM   #15
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Sounds fine to me, what does it do when you rev the car up and hold it at selected RPM's?

FYI - As LT is positive the ECU is having to add fuel. UTEC is removing to much fuel which the ECU is putting back. Change the UTEC stock size to be slightly closer to the UTEC injector size. Less difference means less UTEC compensation.
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Old 12-22-2004, 12:41 PM   #16
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I have almost the same set up as you except no lightened flywheel and had my TGV valves removed and the housing ported and sealed up the holes. I also did the FPR mod for more fuel pressure. I have no problems at start up even when the temps dropped to 8 degrees the other night. Do you have a Spec-C ECU? I do, have my injectors set at 550 stock and 800. I can't check my fuel trims because the JDM ECU won’t let you, at least with the normal scan tool. Also with the JDM C ECU you do not need the O2 sensors at all. You can unplug them and car will run perfect, but you will get a cell. You might have to get the JDM STI ECU and hook up the AVCS to fix the problem. Could just be a sticking idle air solenoid when it's freezing outside, clean it.
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Old 12-22-2004, 01:29 PM   #17
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That is a slight problem that I have. My ECU is a JDM ECU and I went to Rallispec to have it Ecutek flashed and it is not a supported ECU
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick_the_ginge
Sounds fine to me, what does it do when you rev the car up and hold it at selected RPM's?

FYI - As LT is positive the ECU is having to add fuel. UTEC is removing to much fuel which the ECU is putting back. Change the UTEC stock size to be slightly closer to the UTEC injector size. Less difference means less UTEC compensation.
I'm sorry to kinda hijack this thread, but I've been trying to find a resolution to this problem for months now. Turboxs set my inj. sizes to 520/810, I have taken it back since then(to fix jumpy crossover with no success) and they didn't touch the scaling. When I blip the throttle, it almost stalls out. Is this just something I have to live with? cause no one has been able to shed any light on this. Drivability is horrible w/ the choppy crossover that txs could not fix, I'm debating whether or not to just go back to stock turbo/inj.
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Old 12-22-2004, 02:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002WRXSTi
That is a slight problem that I have. My ECU is a JDM ECU and I went to Rallispec to have it Ecutek flashed and it is not a supported ECU
If you need i have an af481 ecu which is supported. PM me for a price if you might be interested
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Old 12-22-2004, 03:19 PM   #20
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Living in the frozen north where it has already been below -10f, 2 cars that I know of are running modded injectors and having NO problems starting.

My STI-UTEC with modded Perrin injectors and no ST LT fuel adjustments, I just punched in 800cc in UTEC and ST LT are good using Delta dash. FWIW no hesitation whatsoever ever.

HOK's car-2.2 rs turbo closed deck running Hydra EMS and modded WRX stock injectors.
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Old 12-23-2004, 12:57 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002WRXSTi
How is it that your modded stockers are 829cc?
Dunno, that's what the printout RC sent back with the injectors said they are flowing.

Also, I haven't dicked around with the fuel trims either. I just told the UTEC what stock is/was and what the modded examples are. Car starts just fine.
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