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Old 12-28-2004, 10:10 AM   #1
elsanto
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Default Coming off throttle idle drops hard... more info inside.

after installing a Greddy FMIC, Perrin pod intake, and blitz bov (all used) my car is acting up.

coming off throttle the car drops to an unbearably low rpm (between 500 and the 0 on the tach). feels like it wants to stall.

while looking for vaccuum leaks i pulled off the Vaccuum line connecting to the BOV hose, rev'd and it regained idle perfectly. Not sure what this means. I block off both sides of this hose, rev'd and idled perfectly. seems like something is wrong with the BOV (which is welded on). before i buy a rebuild kit for it can anyone confirm/deny what im saying?

thanks.
-DS
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Old 12-28-2004, 11:21 AM   #2
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsanto
after installing a Greddy FMIC, Perrin pod intake, and blitz bov (all used) my car is acting up.

coming off throttle the car drops to an unbearably low rpm (between 500 and the 0 on the tach). feels like it wants to stall.

while looking for vaccuum leaks i pulled off the Vaccuum line connecting to the BOV hose, rev'd and it regained idle perfectly. Not sure what this means. I block off both sides of this hose, rev'd and idled perfectly. seems like something is wrong with the BOV (which is welded on). before i buy a rebuild kit for it can anyone confirm/deny what im saying?

thanks.
-DS
Your troubleshooting actually indicates that it is the bov not closing at idle. That vacuum line sucks the bov open until your vacuum decreases and turns into positive pressure. Tighten the bov.
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Old 12-28-2004, 11:29 AM   #3
elsanto
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Sharko, I had it Cranked all the way down, It wasnt blowing off at 5krpms on the highway and the car was bucking violently on release..

thanks for the input. Im definitely going to open it up and rebuild/clean up what i can.
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Old 12-28-2004, 03:17 PM   #4
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elsanto
Sharko, I had it Cranked all the way down, It wasnt blowing off at 5krpms on the highway and the car was bucking violently on release..

thanks for the input. Im definitely going to open it up and rebuild/clean up what i can.

Thats exactly the problem I had when I had a short stiff spring shimmed w/ 8-10 washers in my txs recirc valve. They supplied me with a longer less stiff spring. It does not seem to open at idle any more, yet it vents almost perfectly while driving.
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Old 01-02-2005, 05:21 PM   #5
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elsanto,

i have the exact same setup, Greddy FMIC, perrin shorty, blitz dd bov, i stall practically everytime i come to a complete stop when i have the clutch engaged. i'm currently in the process of dumping the blitz unit and going with the HKS SSQV with recirc kit. i hope you get your issues sorted out because i know how much of a pain it is.

erik
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:15 PM   #6
DrtJnky
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If you are using a BOV that vents to atmosphere instead of a BYPASS like the factory unit this is a common problem. The computer accounts for the air that runs through the mass air and into the motor. Sense the BOV is after the mass air when it opens it sends air under the hood that the computer believs to be going into the engine. Springs and washers will help but it is a bandaid as you are only changing the relationship between the vac/pressure signal and the sprimg tension. You should go back to a REC. BYPASS or look into one of the electronic devices designed to compensate air/fuel ratio for this problem

Just my two cents?
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:22 PM   #7
elsanto
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DRT. thanks for the input. Im aware of the venting issue. I had a HKS on the car before and it ran fine (vented to atmo). this is why i believe it to be a crappy design/failure with the blitz.
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Old 01-03-2005, 03:25 PM   #8
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrtJnky
If you are using a BOV that vents to atmosphere instead of a BYPASS like the factory unit this is a common problem. The computer accounts for the air that runs through the mass air and into the motor. Sense the BOV is after the mass air when it opens it sends air under the hood that the computer believs to be going into the engine. Springs and washers will help but it is a bandaid as you are only changing the relationship between the vac/pressure signal and the sprimg tension. You should go back to a REC. BYPASS or look into one of the electronic devices designed to compensate air/fuel ratio for this problem

Just my two cents?
FWIW, I have a recirc valve w/ a fmic and I still have this problem. Most likely because it is still taking that air and routing back 15ft from where it was.
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Old 01-03-2005, 05:19 PM   #9
g0tb00st
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el~sharko
FWIW, I have a recirc valve w/ a fmic and I still have this problem. Most likely because it is still taking that air and routing back 15ft from where it was.
what kind of FMIC and BOV do you have??? Since you have a recirc kit that dumps the air back to turbo inlet why are you still having problems???
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Old 01-04-2005, 01:50 PM   #10
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g0tb00st
what kind of FMIC and BOV do you have??? Since you have a recirc kit that dumps the air back to turbo inlet why are you still having problems???
I have the newer txs fmic. When you reroute air 15ft. it doesn't exactly ram the air back in considering its dumping it back before the turbo again. I really wish I could just bolt my stock bov back up.
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Old 01-04-2005, 03:48 PM   #11
Matty
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Default I went through the same senario

Added a TXS FMIC and a nea Perrin intake...at first it barely idled..then the ECU kinda figured out the new setup..But when coming off acceleration it RPM's would drop like a rock and sometimes stall...
Turned out the switch from a MRT intake to the Perrin intake was more than my reflashed ECU could adjust for...went in and had it reflashed for the new setup and alls good now!
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Old 01-04-2005, 04:10 PM   #12
elsanto
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Matty, thats what i wanted to hear! can't wait to get reflashed but have to wait for my 23, and fp already have the pinks collecting dust
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Old 01-04-2005, 05:36 PM   #13
g0tb00st
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the guys over at evolutionm.net use this HKS device http://www.hksusa.com/products/?id=2175 to keep from stalling, but since you're getting a reflash it won't matter anymore.
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:52 PM   #14
el~sharko
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elsanto, how is the idle problem coming?
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:03 PM   #15
WRXskeet
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so this is a common problem from running atmos. BOV's. so if this is happening to me that means my BOV isnt closeing in time, so i should tighten it little by little tell it gets better?

thanky u
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:23 PM   #16
elsanto
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same as it ever was.. didnt re-tune yet.... waiting to put in the vf23, injectors and pump still.. blah
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:34 PM   #17
g0tb00st
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my new setup, Greddy FMIC, Perrin Intake, HKS BOV with the recirc kit. Works perfectly, no stalling or bad idling. THROW AWAY THE BLITZ DD BOV!!! ITS A POS!
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:38 PM   #18
elsanto
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did you have your car tuned before you added all that? did you retune afterwards?
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Old 01-26-2005, 04:02 PM   #19
yergi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXskeet
so this is a common problem from running atmos. BOV's. so if this is happening to me that means my BOV isnt closeing in time, so i should tighten it little by little tell it gets better?

thanky u
bingo. I have seen this on at least two occasions. Forget all the hogwash about this being a normal state for atmospheric BOV's. some people talk out there @** as a normal condition. if it's adjusted right, you should have no compressor surge after letting of the throttle, and no stalling at idle.
You will want to keep an eye on it, as it is used you may have to increase the settings to keep the same tension on the valve as the springs and parts wear inside the BOV.

-yergi
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Old 12-01-2005, 07:40 AM   #20
UK_WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el~sharko
Your troubleshooting actually indicates that it is the bov not closing at idle. That vacuum line sucks the bov open until your vacuum decreases and turns into positive pressure. Tighten the bov.
Sorry to bring this back fromt the grave but when you say tighten it do you mean turn the bolt on the top of the BOV up the screw so less thread is shown or show more of the thread?? i ask because i am having stalling problems and my BOV was fitted with that much thread still showing that they have managed to add a 3mm thick bracket and another bolt all in addtion to the adjusting bolt and there is still 4-5 threads of the screw visable.

Please help!
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Old 12-01-2005, 08:36 AM   #21
ScottC
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I had this same problem when I put a turbos fmic on my cobb 2.5 map. The problem went away after I got a real tune.
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Old 12-02-2005, 03:10 PM   #22
BVM
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You can have the stock BPV with the TXS FMIC. Just get the type j adapter for a BOV. Bolt your BPV to it and run a hose from the adapter to the FMIC pipe. Works like a charm.
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