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Old 12-30-2004, 02:06 PM   #1
Andrman
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Member#: 57803
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: IL
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'03 WRX Sport Wagon
World Rally Blue

Default Converting Prodrive UK300 lights from RHD to LHD

To my dismay, I ended up buying a pair of RHD lights (unknown to me, I would have refused if I knew) from a seller on here. But it appears they can be converted, suggested by diagrams like this.



But I'm running into problems. The Prodrive lights have motors that make it (seemingly) impossible to do this conversion, because they have arms that attach to one of the top screws.

This picture shows the arm:


It seems these arms are too long, and i'm about to try drilling another hole in the arm so the motor output and screw to the lights are closer together.

You can see more of my discussion here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...tpost&t=536946

So if anyone has done this conversion sucessfully (I think Hank3 has?) please let me know how you worked with these motors.
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Old 12-30-2004, 06:36 PM   #2
GravelRash
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Location: Kirkland, WA
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Grime over Sedona Red

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I read your the other thread, but it wasn't until I looked at this one that it clicked: this shouldn't be a problem at all! But...I also notice that the position of the screws relative to the capsule tabs/slots/holes in the top picture doesn't match the positions shown in the bottom pic of your light...

Theoretically when you loosen the screws in the slotted tabs, and then move the upper/motor screw to the other hole that part of the capsule should just rotate on the base to the other position and you're done.

But...notice that the lower right screw in the slotted tab of your light (lower pic) is at the opposite end of the slot from that shown in the upper pic. Which means that you can't do the simple rotation implied by the upper pic.

Now compare the pic of your light to the one Arnie posted on the first page of the other thread. You'll see 3 things:
  1. The screw in the right lower slotted tab is at the opposite end...
  2. ...and the metal tab from the motor is attached to the other, left hand, hole...
  3. ...and the metal tab itself is a lot shorter: the screw holding it to the capsule is mostly hidden back under the motor
So, I'd suggest:
  • Leave the motor tab disconnected; rotate the light housing to the other end of the slotted tabs, and if necessary move the top housing screw to the other tab hole.
  • Work with that, including mod'ng the internal mask as described in the other thread, if necessary, until you've got the beam pattern you want.
  • Now trim/drill the motor metal tab until it's the correct length to fit the correct hole in the top tab.
    In order to do this I'm pretty sure you'll have to dismount the motor, remove the metal tab from the motor shaft, do the mods, then mount the tab to the capsule, and finally remount the motor to the tab. This all due to the fact that the outer end of the tab will now be hidden back under the motor (Arnie's pic) and you can't get to that mounting screw any other way...
I checked the only pic I've got of the back of my lights; unfortunately it was taken at a different angle, but the right lower tab screw shows exactly like Arnies. And I clearly remember the motor metal tab being short as described above, rather than long like yours.

I was going to ask where you'd gotten your lights, but unfortunately I don't think I care anymore...

But if anyone finds a source for some left hand drive Prodrive UK300 lights I'd love to know about it. I now live in fear of smacking the front of my car against something!
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Old 12-31-2004, 02:17 AM   #3
Andrman
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Ah, I can rest easy now. i completed the conversion, and it wasn't that hard. I changed the rotation of the capsule (15 degrees) to match Arnie's picture. I then ran into problems mounting the motor again, but it was solved rather simply (once I figured it out, that is!).

All that was needed was drilling a new hole in the metal rectangle piece, one that makes the distance between the motor axis and mounting hole on the capsule much (24 mm, actually) shorter. Once this was done, it was simply a matter of putting things back together. I wasn't exactly sure how high/far to thread the nuts on the screw that go to the metal piece, and one of my lights is significantly different from the other in that regard. But because they're on ball joints, a little fudging is allowed I suppose. I corrected for it all in the aiming process. Which, by the way, is made easier by buying a 7mm ratcheting wrench from Sears. Not a socket wrench, just the little fancy ratcheting wrenches. Unfortunately that driver's side outboard leveling screw is still almost impossible to reach!

But anyway, the nice news is that the UK300 lights are pretty much totally RHD/LHD convert-able. And even better news that no modification to the inner optics is necessary.
(I did open it up and try simply flipping the metal shield, but it resulted in noticeably poorer light pattern. This was using a small LED flashlight through the bulb opening in my basement, it was kind of fun to see that it works almost exactly the same :-))
If anyone else runs into this problem, feel free to email or post here.
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Old 12-31-2004, 02:29 AM   #4
Andrman
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World Rally Blue

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GravelRash-

Yes, I noticed that about my lights not matching the first picture's LHD configuration. My only conclusion is that the picture is in fact WRONG. I know Arnie's LHD lights looked like the "RHD" shown in that picture. And obviously I know mine do too.

Another note on converting the lights-

In original form, the left-most of the 2 top holes (on the capsule) was not big enough to fit the screw for the motor assembly. I had to drill it bigger, I used a 7/32 bit but I think a 15/64 should also work.

And just FYI I used 15/64 when drilling the new hole in the metal plate.
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Old 12-31-2004, 07:06 PM   #5
GravelRash
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2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

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Cool! Glad you got it sorted; nice guinea pig work .

And this also made me realize that if something ever happens to my shells, <insert favorite deity here> forbid, I could use any Prodrive UK300 shells, not just the LHD ones made for sale outside UK. Of course, sourcing them might not be any easier, but I can hope
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