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Old 12-30-2005, 11:52 AM   #276
04jaxwrex
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i just got my BLUE light covers in the mail that i ordered from Mouser.com. I order 50 T1's and 25 T1 1/4! I was sorta worried that I did get the right ones but it was not the case! They are perfect!!!!!! The T1's are the ones that fit over the bulbs that are in the key ring and most of the ones in the guages where as the T1 1/4 are the ones that fit over the bulbs in the fog light, cruise, and heated mirror light bulbs!

GOOD LUCK!!!!!
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Old 12-30-2005, 01:22 PM   #277
fantomas
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let us know how they look now...and compare it to how they look in a month
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:43 PM   #278
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Rubr_Duky said:
Quote:
Nail polish remover has a bit of acetone in it, but it's not as strong as the stuff you get in the hardware store, and it needs a bit of a kick.
I used "Extra Strength" nail polish remover which has acetone, water and some other stuff. There were no ill effects with it. Using a small screw driver and/or an exacto to first scratch the green film, then the nail polish remover and Q tips to wipe it away.


By following the instructions on the LCD Inversion, you'll end up getting access to most of the green film areas. It isn't perfect but at least you can see how much stuff you have to clean.

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Old 01-02-2006, 06:33 PM   #279
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Looks a bit like what I ended up doing. Still not satisfied with the 'hot spots', so I am looking into some diffusers, and film lighting gels to be able to get a consistent brightness, and color.

I LOVE the color depth and tone that I get on the LCD display, but I want to re-create it behind the tach, speedo, fuel, and temp gauges. I really think that it can be done, but because there is a white behind the black ink that defines the numbers, etc., the color needs to compensate for that a bit in order to work.

It is MUCH easier to detach the gauges from the cluster, and by holding it up to a light as you work, you don't end up doing too much or too little. The Acetone 'kick' helps attack the paint enough to break through it (especially on the white) without constantly having to switch tools, and scratch, etc. Q-tips, Acetone, and Nail Polish were plentiful, so I went at it.

RD
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Old 01-03-2006, 09:21 PM   #280
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Default window tint

I'm wondering if something like window tint might work to reduce the hot spots. If it was placed in the areas where the black halftone pattern was maybe that would even everything out. It probably wouldn't be hard to get it to stay there since the tint is already a little sticky.
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Old 01-03-2006, 10:30 PM   #281
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I think it might be a bit difficult to apply, seeing that it does have adhesive, and it might be a bit difficult to stick stuff underneath the dials.

Though you did just give me a VERY good idea: Seeing that I work in a place that processes film, and since the original halftone pattern is no longer there, I coul quite literally make my own halftone pattern, image it on film, and place it behind the dial, and see if that does anything. I will have to report back to you, because (obviously) I haven't done it yet. Unfortunately, I don't have any images of the original halftone pattern, which could prove to be useful. I'll ask our resident halftone expert about the matter tomorrow. We also have a 'textured' material, which may do just a bit of the light diffusion on it's own, and in that respect, since this material is designed for digital imaging, I could quite literally print any color that I want onto this media, and slide it behind the dials.

A thought for all of you having difficulty finding the right color, or if you wanted different colors for different areas, with an MS included program such as paint, and an ink-jet printer, and a small pack of those overhead projector transparency sheets, you could conceivably make your own filters to place behind the dials to color different parts in different colors.

The one thing about the bulb condoms that I don't much like, is that they change the color of EVERYTHING, and that includes the needles. As discussed before, if you just were to color the light coming through the numbers, as Subaru did with the stock units, then the brightness/color of the dials will remain unaffected.

Thanks for the ideas!

RD
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Old 01-04-2006, 01:03 PM   #282
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Speaking of changing the color of the needles, how has that gone for everyone? Are there any colors of light that don't shine through the needles or anything?
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Old 01-04-2006, 03:30 PM   #283
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Quick Question. Im not worried about doing this mod other then one thing. Is there any other way to remove the green film in the back? Im kinda worried with the question "What If i wanna go back" typa thing.
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Old 01-04-2006, 09:18 PM   #284
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I didn't envision needing to change the color of the needles since I wanted to go to Red, and they're actually red.

When I tried adding the bulb filters (red), my needles nearly disappeared at night.

I'm not one to do things without a bit of planning, and so far, the only part of this that is irreversible, is removing the green from the dials. With a little bit of This can be replaced with a film gel that can be bought cheap, and you could conceivably do it well enough so you can't tell. If you get close, then no one else will ever know.

RD
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Old 01-07-2006, 02:46 AM   #285
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Hey, out of curiosity, Does anyone have a good picture of the black half-tone pattern from the back of the dials prior to applying acetone?

Was going to do some experimenting, and like a dope, I didn't take any good pics of 'before', and mine is already cleared. Why re-invent the wheel?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

RD
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Old 01-11-2006, 04:17 AM   #286
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Just a quick question. I followed the directions you all have written which were great. My only mistake is I took the needles off of the tach and speedo. Now the speedo jumps frequently, but it is still accurate according to my GPS. There are no problems with the tach is works fine. I read you have to push hard yet gentle on the needles to get them to seat again and I think I pushed too hard. When I then removed the needle from the speedo the pin leading to the control motor for the needle came out with the needle unlike the tach where it stayed in. It is quite loose now (the needle can come out easily). I'm wondering if by pushing too hard the first time I stuck the shaft into the needle and the shaft is not reaching the control motor enough now. I dont know. But I know I need help with this and no one better to ask. Do I need a new contorl motor? Thanks for any help. Well appriciated. Also I'm trying white LED's. Will post pics when I get them!!
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Old 01-11-2006, 08:53 AM   #287
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It seems to be the consensus at that point to just go ahead and buy another cluster.

If it's jumping, then there's something amiss, and dis-assembling it, and carefully re-assembling it could solve it, but it's one of those 'hands-on' things that you'd just have to 'know' in order to explain, and mine didn't fall apart.

I'd say, either buy a new cluster, and try your mods again, being VERY careful, knowing the failure modes of the needles, not to remove them, or break them (or leave it stock), or take the whole thing apart, very carefully, being mindful of how things fit, and analyze where it's hanging, or 'jumpy', and see if there's an obstacle, or something not re-installed correctly and the like.

Good Luck,

RD
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Old 01-11-2006, 11:34 AM   #288
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<<Waiting to see pics of the white LED's
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:10 PM   #289
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Well I dont want to buy an entirely new cluster when the whole cluster is fine minus the speedo. I am almost leaning towards that the control motor is the problem. I am sure the cluster would be expensive. Also when I took the speedo needle out the shaft to the control motor instead of staying in the control motor like the tach did. Could this be the problem aswell? Like if the shaft is not sitting far enough into the motor and it is slipping when it would be running normal? Just a thought. Thanks for the help. I did not get my LED's yet they should be here tomorrow and I will post pics when they go in.
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Old 01-11-2006, 01:48 PM   #290
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I completed the DIY cluster with ORANGE bulb condoms (figuring red would be too dark and not bright enough for my taste) and it turned out great except for those hot spots. Has anyone had a problem with the illumination in their odometer though? Mine, as I even replaced the bulb, doesnt seem to illuminate at all, is there green film on the odometer I have to sand off also?
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Old 01-11-2006, 03:43 PM   #291
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There is a little piece of green plastic behind it, that is causing it to be dark. I am still working out a diffuser and once I'm satisfied I'll update the thread with all the new info.

Last edited by Trunk_Monkey; 01-11-2006 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:09 AM   #292
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Oh my god, I did not know that. Great pic though props to you good sir.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:05 PM   #293
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Dont go about doing this yet, its really tricky and you have to be really delicate with it. I'm gonna try to find an easier way for you guys but thatll take some time.
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:47 PM   #294
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Trunk_Monkey, That's about the way I did it, though I took EVERYTHING apart. I neglected to take pictures of it, however.

For a diffuser, why don't you just try a piece of white paper.. something 20# or lighter would work, I think. That will block quite a bit of light. Tissue paper would be a little better, or a slice from a milk bottle (the gallon ones). Even something so simple as a clear piece of plastic, blister-pack, battery packaging, etc. with a dull clear-coat, or 'window frosting' (the kind that simulated glass-etching, not snow) sprayed on it. There's hundreds of things you can try to use.

RD
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:15 PM   #295
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Yeah, I found your way of disassembling the cluster alot better. I took mine apart again to see if I could do something about the hotspotting, even though mine is really unnoticable. I started tinkering with a semi-transparent red filter, you get an extremely intense red with the bulb covers and the red filter. I will probably need to add another layer of something that is more opaque and sort of rough to help diffuse the light more. I'd also like to hear a little about the hotspotting thats going on because I am not really getting any.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:18 PM   #296
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i'm just going to wire some more led's so it's so bright in there there won't be hotspots, just light everywhere

it seemed to have worked for more than a few GC RS clusters

Last edited by Handsdown; 01-12-2006 at 11:26 PM.
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Old 01-13-2006, 12:26 AM   #297
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Well, at 4k & 8k, and at 35-40mph, and 140mph, the light is brighter, and fades away from there. I KNOW that's why Subaru printed the black halftone on the back, to cut down the light, and make it all even, but they have the advantage of having the dials manufactured without needles in them

Had I gotten an opportunity with the flat dials, I could very easily scan the pattern, and reproduce it, and print something similar.

The hot spots will certainly be more noticeable on some colors than others, and it may even matter what year it is.. yours is an 03, while mine is an 04.

Additionally, while they are evenly lit, my fuel & temp gauges are very bright, so I would like to cut those down a bit as well, to match the darker spots of the speedo & tach. It's just a matter of playing around with it, I've got an idea, but I need some time at work to make it all happen.

BTW, if anyone is interested, PM me: I have three 'sample' pieces of the 'optical lamination film' that I used for my LCD Inversion left. I could probably cut that into 6, maybe even 12 pieces large enough to stick a new polarizing filter to your LCD for the ODO on an 04 WRX (or similar). If you want one, PM me your addy, I'll stick it in an envelope, and send it to you. If you need a different size (I know some have clocks, etc.) measure tightly around the display (to be fair to everyone else that wants some), and I will see if I can accommodate you. I'll give it a couple of days before I start hacking it up, and see what kind of requests I get.. First come, First Serve.

RD
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Old 01-13-2006, 12:29 AM   #298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown
i'm just going to wire some more led's so it's so bright in there there won't be hotspots, just light everywhere

it seemed to have worked for more than a few GC RS clusters
One of my reasons behind switching to red is to reduce eye strain for night driving, as I do a lot of it. If the lighting is nice and even, and I can dim it enough, it lets me retain focus and concentration on the road. Like everyone bitches about with the headlights, blue is difficult for your eyes to digest, and I figure if Fighter Pilots use red-lit cockpits, there must be a reason, despite my general disdain for the color.

RD
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Old 01-13-2006, 01:34 AM   #299
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well i'm not going to blind myself with them

i'm just saying that more sources=less dim space inbetween, even if i have to dim them down with the control stalk.

i actually bought some polarizing film, but i don't have any optical adhesive- otherwise i'd have tried it out already.
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:01 AM   #300
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Ive got an 04 WRX and when I did the LCD mod I did not have any film over my lense. Just that green plastic rectangleunder the actual screen. Any particular reason?? The guage is also a yellowish white color (factory bulb) simply because I hadn't read the post on it when I ordered the bulbs.
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