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Old 01-13-2006, 03:33 PM   #301
ShortysTRM
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I may be interested in the polarizing film, but I have two screens in my 02 Legacy GT. First, I have to get big enough testes to start taking apart my dash using the How-To from an Impreza.
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:18 PM   #302
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where does one get the adhesive for the polarizing film?
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Old 01-13-2006, 04:51 PM   #303
twentynine
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With regards to hotspots-

Would it be possible to line the entire area behind the gauges with adhesive aluminum tape? The idea is to reflect light EVERYWHERE so that there couldn't possibly be any hotspots. I haven't opened my gauge cluster yet, so I'm not sure what it looks like back there.

Or how about a homemade miniature "angel eye" type assembly behind each gauge? 1 colored LED + window blinds rod heat-bent to the shape of the gauge? Would that work?

Any thoughts?
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:20 AM   #304
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRX04Blue
Ive got an 04 WRX and when I did the LCD mod I did not have any film over my lense. Just that green plastic rectangleunder the actual screen. Any particular reason?? The guage is also a yellowish white color (factory bulb) simply because I hadn't read the post on it when I ordered the bulbs.
Check here for what the Polarization film does: (link )... See 'LCD Inversion'

I have gotten a couple of requests about the polarization film, and I think that some of you may have mis-read....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubr_Duky
...

BTW, if anyone is interested, PM me: I have three 'sample' pieces of the 'optical lamination film' that I used for my LCD Inversion left. I could probably cut that into 6, maybe even 12 pieces large enough to stick a new polarizing filter to your LCD for the ODO on an 04 WRX (or similar). If you want one, PM me your addy, I'll stick it in an envelope, and send it to you. If you need a different size (I know some have clocks, etc.) measure tightly around the display (to be fair to everyone else that wants some), and I will see if I can accommodate you. I'll give it a couple of days before I start hacking it up, and see what kind of requests I get.. First come, First Serve.

RD
Again, I have the adhesive, not the filter. The adhesive, when adhered between two smooth surfaces, is optically clear, meaning: It does not cause any distortion, color filtration, or diffusion. You still need to get your own polarization filter, mine I found at Edmunds Optics. This is the MacTac PermaTrans® IP-2100 that I'm talking about that I have extras of.

Note: This 'inversion' will not change color (ie: green to red) on the LCD, you have to do that by normal means (bulb condoms, colored LED replacements, etc.) and that's already been covered. This will make the background of your LCD black, and the numbers your lit color of choice.

Again, PM me if this is something you want.

RD
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Old 01-14-2006, 01:45 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twentynine
With regards to hotspots-

Would it be possible to line the entire area behind the gauges with adhesive aluminum tape? The idea is to reflect light EVERYWHERE so that there couldn't possibly be any hotspots. I haven't opened my gauge cluster yet, so I'm not sure what it looks like back there.

Or how about a homemade miniature "angel eye" type assembly behind each gauge? 1 colored LED + window blinds rod heat-bent to the shape of the gauge? Would that work?

Any thoughts?
i was actually thinking of the angel eye rings... you'd probably have to secure the rings to the back of the clear plastic backing, which might be hard considering the construction- it might have to snake through things... and at the range that it would be you'd have to make the cut-ups REALLY close together in order to get even light...

the aluminum tape makes me skeptical because (especially with LED's) the light is pointed out, not back- so lining the back won't do much with the narrow beam that LED's throw. i suppose it would be worth a try though.
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Old 01-14-2006, 03:11 AM   #306
twentynine
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Hmm I had forgotten that LEDs throw out very focused beams of light. You're right that the aluminum wouldn't do much in that situation.

How about lining the inside of your cluster with EL glow wire? Now the ghetto side of my brain is working.
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Old 01-14-2006, 10:35 AM   #307
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i don't know if EL glow wire would be adjustable with the dimming switch on the instrument stalk...

but you're thinkin! that's good!

i've been thinking- what if I mounted two LED's on a separate switch in FRONT of the faces i could make everything light up pretty well, kinda spotlights like older volkswagons and older older imports... best part is it would be pretty reversible and i could just switch them off if it didn't work well.
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Old 01-15-2006, 12:28 PM   #308
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In regards to placing the aluminum adhesive behind the gauges, well I decided to tackle the job and figured it wouldn't work.. I cut it to size and placed it behind but shows no improvement

so do not bother.. but you knew that lol
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:35 AM   #309
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I did this mod today and it works GREAT !!!

Just finished sanding all the green stuff off !!
I've put the cluster back in and went for a test-drive.
Everything still works fine !!!!!!!

Next week, I'm gonna replace the bulbs with LED's and paint my needles

THX again for this super-tutorial !!!!!

Oh, a tip: I power-taped the sanding paper onto the blade of a butterknife.
This way it goes very fast and you don't have to put much pressure on the face itself...
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Old 01-22-2006, 09:41 AM   #310
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Great idea, I'll add that to the update!
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:01 AM   #311
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs
Find a pair of scissors, small ones work better
cut strips of sandpaper & wrap around and tape it
.
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:04 PM   #312
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there was an LED cluster in one of the old maximas that someone did a write-up of- this was back in 2001 or something, but... yeah, point is, he put blue LED's behind the needles, like, right behind the base of the needle and it made the needles SUPER bright, I'm kinda wondering if that would work with ours.

also, where is a good place to get single LED's on long leads that would be good for wiring in behind the cluster?

i remember one website seemed to have a lot of good choices but i've forgotten where it was or how to get to it.

does anyone know a good source for LED's?
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Old 01-22-2006, 12:43 PM   #313
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Just completed my gauge cluster color conversion using orange bulb condoms, not red. Here's a couple pics. Tell me what you guys think





BTW, I'm aware of the CEL, I am getting it pulled today at Autozone
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Old 01-22-2006, 04:59 PM   #314
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there is a much easier way to get the green crap off the back than sanding it off! i tried the whole sanding thing on the gas/temp part of the guage and it took forever and it was hard to get in the little places! Plus i didn't like the idea of sanding the back of my guages and having the chance of sanding something that i didnt want to sand!

solution (and i got it from Rubr_Duky)

get nail polish remover with aceton (i think that is how you spell it) and use cotton swabs! you will use a bit of cotton swabs, but it is easier! But after I did the Tach and moved to the speedometer, i found that it was harder to get to the Kmh, so i spread some nail polish remover on everthing, and let it act with the green **** (sometimes putting a few aplications on) then i used a small screwdriver and scapped that **** off! came off like hot butter!

i just got done doing my guage cluster BLUE! i bought the blue bulb filters from mouser.com and put them in! The blue from canceled out the red in the needles and red line area...couldn't see them at all! You see, the guages were working on white light passing through green film on the back of the guages, but i scrapped that geen stuff off and but the blue condoms on and not was was blue light passing through clear guages and red needles! the blue canceled out the red in the needles!

solution!

seeing as i really wanted blue, i went to autozone and picked up some 35% blue window tint. I took my guages apart and held up each peice to the window and took a piece of paper and made a stencile so that it would be easier to make the blue tint pieces! themn i took and cut little sqaures out of the tint and stuck k3 of them together to get the blue that i wanted! i didnt actually stick to tint on the back of the guages but slid it in between the the plastic and the guages! took out to my car to see how it looked and it wasnt dark enough! so i took it back and put 3 more layers on! now it looks great!

if you want to do this, make sure that when you cut out the tint, that you go around the redline part so that it will still be red and not purple!

__________________________________________________ ______________

My buddy saw mine and wants to do his red! i ordered him the red condoms and they should be here in a few days!

Once i see his in red i might go and do mine red as well!
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Old 01-22-2006, 05:19 PM   #315
Trunk_Monkey
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I tried something similar with a red tint, the color is more intense but I still want to figure something out for the hotspotting that some people are having.
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Old 01-23-2006, 07:25 AM   #316
04jaxwrex
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trunk_Monkey
I tried something similar with a red tint, the color is more intense but I still want to figure something out for the hotspotting that some people are having.
i have the same problem! the #'s on the speedometer at the top are darker than the ones closer to the bottom! i think that is b/c there aren't enough light bulbs! I am thinking of putting some more on in different places by jumping them from one of the other light bulbs!

we will see how that goes!
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:38 AM   #317
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Default Update: New clear sharpie pics


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Old 01-23-2006, 10:40 AM   #318
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin2.5rs


picture didnt work

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Old 01-23-2006, 11:57 AM   #319
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Im thinking of making my own LED cluster. I got 100 blue LEDs off ebay for $5 with resistors. I figure I can put 3-4 LEDs in each socket and aim them in different directions to get rid of the hotspotting.

Now if I ever get enough ambition to pull the cluster out again...
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Old 01-23-2006, 01:13 PM   #320
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works for me.
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Old 01-23-2006, 02:29 PM   #321
twentynine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Handsdown
there was an LED cluster in one of the old maximas that someone did a write-up of- this was back in 2001 or something, but... yeah, point is, he put blue LED's behind the needles, like, right behind the base of the needle and it made the needles SUPER bright, I'm kinda wondering if that would work with ours.
It might work. I was part of the SR20DE Nissan community then and there was a lot of hype over "DIY indiglo needles". It involved removing the colored stuff from the needles with a razor blade and/or nail polish remover if I remember correctly (but don't quote me on that). I'd have to look for the DIY, but I'm sure if I log into my old account I could do a forum search after work.
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Old 01-23-2006, 03:09 PM   #322
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Default more sharpie info (old school)

ok...so here goes
if you want to do red bulbs under the factory green film, you may not have to remove the green. red is a much lower frequency than green, therefore the red will dominte as the light shining through the green film behind your cluster (it will just be less bright). this will also help eliminate "hot-spots" becuase the green film also acts as a diffuser.
Also, if you decide to use a sharpie for coloring your bulbs (cheap and easy) keep in mind that the INITIAL color will fade in about 2 weeks (due to the heat and the thin layer of ink) More coats can be added once this happens. I have recoated my bulbs with shapie twice more after the original and after the 3rd coat, it has remained solid red (its been probably 6 months).

in that picture, all of the LCDs turned out pink on my cameras settings, i dont know why, maybe wrong white balance or something. i can assure you that all of the lights match to eye and look good. its a good red, not pinkish like it appears to be in the photo.
any questions?
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Old 01-23-2006, 04:09 PM   #323
MarylandEcstasy
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how do you change the needles colors? I dislike my yellow ones.
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Old 01-23-2006, 09:00 PM   #324
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Printed on the back of the green film is a black halftone pattern (an array of different sized dots) that reduces the amount of light that can pass through. The green does NOT act as a diffuser, there is also a white screen behind some of the numbers, which does act as a diffuser. Also, the plastic that the whole thing is printed on is a mildly milky white, which also acts as a diffuser because of it's thickness.

If you have no way of controlling light passage (by blocking it) and you use an incandescant bulb, or even LEDs (which are even _more_ focused) you WILL get hot-spots, unless you change the location/quantity of lighting elements, regardless of color. It may be more noticeable with one color than another, but they still exist.

If you have an 20-03, and you want red needles, I don't think that there is much you can do, because it looks like the material that the needle is made from has pigment in it, meaning: It's orange plastic. Buy an 05-04 cluster, and put it in there, and you'll get the red needles, and the benefit of having the tach in the center, instead of the speedo.

Nissan may have done it with paint, but it really looks to me like the needles in my cluster are pigmented plastic. It is cut, the edges are polished smooth, and you get uniform color, and light transmission.

RD
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Old 01-23-2006, 10:44 PM   #325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubr_Duky
one of the tricks to getting them installed correctly, I think is to make sure that you get all of the air out above the bulb. I used a pair of tweezers to very carefully--and without puncturing the condom--push it all the way down on the bulb. The second one should fit over the little molded, thicker ring on the base of the one before.

Haven't had a single problem with any of them coming off.

RD
i found that by getting the bulb wet (licking it) the condoms slide on very easy!
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