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Old 01-05-2005, 09:59 PM   #1
The Modaholic
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Default Odd HID related headlight problem...

I noticed the other day that my right low bean HID flickered, then the next morning its out and the high beams (stock) are on very dim and the high bean icon on the dash is on dimly when the low beans are on. I replaced the fuse for the right side twice, kept blowing. I noticed that when I turn on the high beams the right side is out (low and high completely--the high beam no longer glows dimly) and the dimly lit high beam icon on the dash goes out completely. The running lights are disengaged and the fogs are wired to run whenever the switch is engage when the parking lights are on.

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Old 01-05-2005, 10:04 PM   #2
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How are your HIDs wired, are you using the factory harness grounds or direct grounds, and factory common power or battery via relay?
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:21 PM   #3
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factory wires, and grounds.
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Old 01-05-2005, 10:26 PM   #4
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That may be a problem right there. The factory switched grounds should never be used for HIDs due to the high startup current requirement. This can cause unreliable operation, flickering, cutting out, and possible damage to the wiring and/or switch contacts over time.
I suggest you move the ballast negatives to direct chassis ground. There may be other issues at this point as well, but this should be done anyway. You might have defective ballasts or other components. If the fuse on one side is blowing every time now and didn't before it's a sign that something, probably the ballast, is drawing too much current.
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Old 01-05-2005, 11:02 PM   #5
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K...what do you think is going on with the running lights/high lights, dimming icon on dash, etc?
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Old 01-05-2005, 11:13 PM   #6
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Hard to say without actually seeing your car. For now I would say try disconnecting the HIDs completely, then make sure both headlight fuses are good and see if everything works other than the low beams. Actually if it isn't too much trouble I'd suggest putting the original halogen low beams back in, and see if they still work. That will check the condition of your factory wiring. Once you know that's ok (which it hopefully is) then you can look at the HID components to see what's bad.
One more thing, did you disable the DRLs by disconnecting the main control module behind the glovebox (right way) or just the resistor under the hood (wrong way)?
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Old 01-06-2005, 06:25 AM   #7
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Mulder,

Sad to say, I wasn't the one who disconnected the driving lights, so I am not sure how it was done. Where is the resistor under the hood on the 04WRXs? Is the main control module behind the glovebox easy to spot?

Its funny, it seems as if the drviving lights are in some sort of low power mode; that the system is sensing that there is a problem with one headlight (even though it isn't stock, the fuse having blown twice)and therefore the need for secondary lighting--could the dimly lit high beam indicator on the dash (lit with low beams on rather than high beams, when it actually goes out altogether)be a functional warning?

Either that or is it possible this is a simple grounding problem? Behind the radio I need to rewire the power leads and grounds for three devices: the high current alpine head unit (drawing power from the factory harness loom), the Clifford Matrix RS3.5/alarm--wired into red/power and grounds coming out of the factory loom for the headunit (thanks to XXTuning, who did the install), the Defi boost, oil temp(malefunction d/t short at sensor--thanks to oil-change technician letting the drain plug hang from the wire!), and EGT black out 62mm gauges, and my Passport 8500 w/ ZR3 shifter wired into the same lead that the alarm is wired into, coming out of the back of the factory radio loom (small red line--not the big yellow line, with high current black box attached to it)? (this last sentence can be flammed by those English teachers out there!)

As a consequence, I have recently had problems with the alarm receiving the signals from the remotes, and the laser detector has been going off intermittantly, with a sudden increase in throttle (I thought the Fuzz was in the trees, must have been some kind of budget increase to pay for remote units on telephone polls...lol) So, in a nut shell, I wouldn't be surprised if that has something to do with the headlight issue, but how? Can those devices be generating surges and current drain that would effect the headlights?

I am planning on running a power 12 guage power line with a ten gauge ground directly from the battery with a 30amp fuse to the area behind the dash for the radar detector ZR3 unit, and the alarm system--come to think of it the power for the gauges comes out of the Defi Link headunit below the radio...could the malefunctioning/short in the oil temp line, which has been making the gauge dance for a couple of months intermittantly have caused all of this? Anyway, I am going to be rewiring this all--I'll leaving the radio power the way it is, but is there another line that I can tap into without having to run that 12 gauge line from the battery with its own ground?

As you can see, I am new at this, just did my own grounding mod (to the two points on the top of the intake manifold--car runs better, affects EM tune slightly, believe it or not!) Any advice is greatly appreciated, as you have helped me immensley in the past! (Did you get the PM I sent you recently?)

Thanks folks--longest post of any kind that I have written!

Whit

Last edited by The Modaholic; 01-06-2005 at 06:30 AM.
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:42 AM   #8
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The system doesn't "sense" anything, you have a wiring problem or bad component somewhere.
There are threads in this forum about disconnecting the DRLs. The module isn't that easy to see but if you remove the glovebox and follow the info you'll find here it's not a big deal. The resistor is by the passenger strut tower, there are plenty of threads describing that as well.
I don't think the wiring you did inside the car has anything to do with this problem. The issue with the laser alert is common, what detector do you have? If it's an older V1 this is a known issue with the power adapter and Valentine will send you an updated one if you call them.
I never got any PM from you.
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:26 PM   #9
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Looks like the ballast and starter box got a bit wet since I recently lost a fog light eyelid piece. I put the balasts for both fogs and low beams on the inside there. I know they should be sealed tight but I suppose it isn't impossible that they got wet. I should probably disconnect the bulb at the balast output line, turn on the lights and see if I blow another fuse, if I don't then it is the bulb, I guess, or it has dried out. In any event I wrote this from the dealer where I picked up anew eyelid under warrenty. Thanks for the help. I am going to move the ZR3 power line further away from the radio and find another lgnition power line to tap into for the KnockLink meter, both are sharing the same red power line that runs into the back of the Alpine headunit. Bizzare about the dim highbeam indicator light that I see when I turn on the low beams (when the driving lights come one, which shouldn't be happening) So, how could the driving lights come back on as the result of a short that is burning out the fuse for the head lights on one side?
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Old 01-06-2005, 03:42 PM   #10
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Do NOT turn on the lights with the bulbs disconnected. The ballast (or ignitor) output is very high voltage and with no bulb there it will arc. You can't test the individual HID components this way, they must all be connected.
What you can do is to swap the components from side to side individually and see if the problem moves, if it does you have found the defective part.
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:10 PM   #11
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It turns out that the right side headlight ballast and starter box made by Liteglow is bad and is causing the right side headlight fuse to blow. Even though I never figured out how the DRL became active again I disconnected the main module behind the glove box, which solved that problem.

But now the fog light HID kit (Liteglow) is blowing the fog light fuse and Ihave replaced the ballast with a combined unit (starter and ballast in one box) made by another company--the bulb on the right side is brighter than the one on the left.

...Now the remaining Liteglow kit for the left has started to flicker the light (which seems to grow a darker sade of blue as it dims)...It is out now and I am still blowing the fog light fuse.

As far as grounding goes--I am using chasis grounds that are already there for the headlight system, it seems. Should I reground the fog-lights?

Any word on the reliability of Liteglow HID kits?

Thanks!

Whit

ps The only change in my homemade grounding kit I have made recently was to disconnect the ground wire I ran to the firewall ground behind the intercooler that seems to have one 10-12 gauge wire running to it on my 2004 WRX. Any idea what that grounding point is used for?
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:22 PM   #12
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you should use relays to wire your hids direct to the battery and chassis ground. then u wont blow your fuses
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:27 PM   #13
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Never heard of Liteglow. If you have a chance to re-purchase your HID components, I would opt for Philips, Hella, or Osram.
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Old 01-25-2005, 03:51 PM   #14
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HongKongBeef--

Nice name! PM'd you
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:41 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Modaholic
Any word on the reliability of Liteglow HID kits?
I think you've answered your own question. And I've never heard of them either.
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:50 PM   #16
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Mulder,

If the HID headlight I am having trouble with comes on everytime but then flickers, grows dimmer and then goes out, would you say that signifies a grounding problem?
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:20 PM   #17
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If it doesn't have trouble starting initially, the ground is probably not the reason for its behavior, but you can confirm this simply enough by moving the ballast negative from wherever it is to a good, solid direct ground.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:25 PM   #18
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I'll probably just run another ground wire from the chasis ground screw (the one next to the battery) to the ground wire going to the bulb. I'll use one of those nifty connectors that bites into the wire.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:36 PM   #19
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You mean a so-called "vampire tap"? No, don't use those on high-current devices like headlights (particularly HIDs), they aren't up to the task. They should also never be used on wiring that is exposed to the elements or under the hood. The proper way to do this is to crimp a spade or ring terminal on the ballast wire and secure it to either the chassis ground or battery negative terminal directly.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:45 PM   #20
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OK--

The black wire going into the ballast from the starter or out of the ballast What is a spade or ring terminal?
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:53 PM   #21
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The wire from the ballast that connects to incoming power, NOT the one that goes to the starter. You don't want to mess with any wiring between the ballast and starter, or starter and bulb.
I hate to say this, but if you really don't know what those terminals are you probably should get some assistance to do your wiring. Those are basic crimp-type terminals that are used on lots of general-purpose wiring, if you aren't familiar with them it's time to take a step back and learn a few things, and maybe get yourself a small wiring kit with assorted connectors and a crimping tool. For now I'd highly suggest you find someone local to you with more experience that can give you a hand. I'm sure if you ask in your local forum there are plenty of folks nearby willing to help.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:57 PM   #22
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OK, thanks
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