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Old 01-17-2005, 01:30 PM   #1
johndingk2
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Default Camshaft gear removal 2.5L DOHC

From a 97 leg gt.

Anyone know about this procedure. I am worried about removal of cams without misalignment of valves. I want to know just how much movement I should expect from left (drivers) side when removed. Also want to make sure that all I need to do is just reposition them back at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock when reinstalling, assuming they dont spin all over the place when removed. I am just freaking out about this and dont want to trash my engine you know.

ANy help would be great.
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:27 PM   #2
Storm
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As long as the motor is in the correct position when you remove the belt, the pulley won't move at all. Put the motor at #1TDC on the compression stroke and the pulley won't jump out of position. Remember to move the motor back to the correct timing mark on the crank timing pulley when you go to put the belt back on.

I freaked as well when getting set to do mine, but after 2-3 times of doing it, it's just another hassle instead of a major undertaking.....

Jay Storm
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Old 01-18-2005, 06:50 PM   #3
johndingk2
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No. I have to remove the camshaft gear. I removed the belt and the cam gear is very easily moved. I have not moved it much. Just enought to varify that it indeed does move. THis is the drivers side by the way. Timing belt is not difficult. I just have to get this damn gear off and dont want excessive movement. Help
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:14 PM   #4
mafiamotorsports
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chilton makes a nice repair manual that walks yo through the whole process even has pictures
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Old 01-18-2005, 07:33 PM   #5
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Don't play with this without step by step instructions. One side is loaded when you remove the belt and needs to be returned to that loaded position when you reinstall. As for the gear itself, a nice solid impact wrench with 250 lbs will usually crack it without spinning it. There is also a special wrench, but it is expensive...
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Old 01-18-2005, 08:01 PM   #6
johndingk2
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Default Loaded

What do you mean loaded? You mean it has pressure/tension on it and will want to spin away? When complete, don't i just put them both back at 6 and 12 respectively. Haynes does not go into any of this what so ever. They just say, jdont move em.
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Old 01-19-2005, 12:36 AM   #7
Storm
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Pull the valve covers, put a wrench on the flats of the cam and hold it while you break the cam pulley bolt loose. An air wrench is useful here......


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Old 01-19-2005, 01:29 PM   #8
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Dont even know if I can fit an impact wrench in there. I am gonna try an adjustable wrench with an offset (assuming I can find one) to try and hold the cam while using a cheater bar. I f that doesnt work, off come the valve cover.
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Old 01-19-2005, 09:07 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm
Pull the valve covers, put a wrench on the flats of the cam and hold it while you break the cam pulley bolt loose. An air wrench is useful here......


Jay Storm
Agreed. Put the crankshaft with the timing belt install mark facing straight up, pointing to the notch by the sensor. That will position all the pistons 1/2 way down in the bores. Now you have no worries about bending a valve.

Hold the cams with a wrench. There is a boss cast into the cam that you can hold with a wrench.

-Sean
RalliTEK Subaru
www.RalliTEK.com / www.rallitek.net
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Old 01-19-2005, 10:39 PM   #10
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Got the cam gear off.

Now for the reinstall?
Now both drivers side cam gears have some movement in them. Clockwise they both move easily. Counter clockwise they meet tension. On the intake turning counter clockwise the cam gear turns to where the install marks are just a few degrees before 12 oclock(11:57) and then meets tension. Likewise with the exhaust, the cam gear turns to where the install marks are just a few degrees past 6 oclock and then stops. When doing the reinstall do I need to meet tension exactly at 12 and 6 respectively or do I just set the cam gears at 12 and 6 even though there is no tension at that specific point.

If I need to somehow reinitilize the tension, is there a spring or something.

I do apologize for all the ????'s but I am feeling that Haynes may have not given me all the nec. info.

John
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Old 01-20-2005, 12:52 AM   #11
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On the drivers side, you want the timing marks on the pulleys (which may not be lined up with the keyway) at 6&12 o'clock for the double hashmarks and (top)12 o'clock-(bottom)3 o'clock for the single marks. Doing this will put the cams under tension as the have opened valves on that side. The crank will be at a point (as mentioned by RalliTek) where the pistons are not at risk should the cam slip.

The trick is to get the belt routed without those pulleys jumping. It's good to have an extra set of hands if you don't have the special tool but still do-able by yourself.

The only tension you'll have to reset is on the tensioner. Haynes should have the right precaution listed but if not, don't try to force it. Let the piston retract as slowly as possible and it will go easier. Other than that, you should have no other problems.

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Old 01-27-2005, 12:58 PM   #12
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Just a final note on this should you all need to know.

When the cams released their loads (spun like a mofo) I reloaded them by reversing the spin they did when they unloaded. This required a bit of strength as they are under quite a bit of pressure when finally back at 6 and 12 oclock. At first I thought I was not gonna be able to reach 6 and 12 because the cams felt like they were hitting the piston but in fact it was just the tension they were under. When you reach this tension the cam will in fact continue on to 6 or 12 and stay there since it is now reloaded. If you twist the cam gear again at that point clockwise they will unload again. I thought I was going to have to hold the tension while re installing the belt but no, the cam gears will stay there. Just be careful as with just a little clockwise movement, they will unload again.

It is fun to learn.
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Old 01-27-2005, 06:33 PM   #13
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Glad you got it done!!!! It isn't as bad as you originally thought, eh?

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