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Old 01-20-2005, 09:06 PM   #1
scooby-stu
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Default questions on the jdm Sti ver7

I have just purchased the ver 7 engine and i currently have the cobb stage 2.5 setup on my WRX. When i change the engine will i notice much difference than the the 2.5 setup as both have the vf 34 turbo? Or should i go straight for a bigger turbo and engine managment before i put it in? I dont have the cash right now for a bigger turbo and i wanna get the engine in ASAP.
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Old 01-20-2005, 10:05 PM   #2
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Ya, you may see a big difference depending on what exact motor you have. A base ver 7 will be a little different and a spec C will be quite a bit different.
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Old 01-21-2005, 01:19 AM   #3
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Get the engine in and running before you start messing around with a bigger turbo etc. It would totally suck if the engine you bought was NFG and you spent all that money on installing it and the parts and then had to pull it back out again.

Z
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:02 AM   #4
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thats a good point ! thanks

How will i know if its a spec c?
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:30 AM   #5
DuoMaxwell
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Post your vin number and we can find out real quick!!!
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:33 AM   #6
Zephyr
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Yes and then I'll go to the ATM Machine and get some money.

For the last ****in time it's Vehicle Identification Number not Vehicle Identification Number Number
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Old 01-21-2005, 10:34 AM   #7
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And you're not posting the VIN unless you have a front clip. Post the engine code sticker on the lower left of the timing belt cover. There's one on the back also if that one is missing.
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Old 01-21-2005, 10:39 AM   #8
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origional question:

A:yeah a thousand RPM
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Old 01-22-2005, 12:30 AM   #9
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I puchased the engine off of gruppe-s for $2999 its brand new only 500km on it. I caaaant wait till it gets here!
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:02 AM   #10
garface
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Did they have a sale or is something wrong with it? They usually charge $4k, or did they lower their prices?
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:48 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby-stu
I puchased the engine off of gruppe-s for $2999 its brand new only 500km on it. I caaaant wait till it gets here!
It is a longblock with ECU,turbo,ic, etc?

Definetly post the code on the white tag located on the timing belt cover, mabey you got a spec C motor like i did from Gruppe-s.
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Old 01-22-2005, 04:11 PM   #12
Kreeger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby-stu
...Or should i go straight for a bigger turbo and engine managment before i put it in? I dont have the cash right now for a bigger turbo and i wanna get the engine in ASAP.

I made 300WHP with a vf34 on my non-RA version 7 motor and it was set at only 10psi... yes, 10psi.


My mods:

JDM ver 7 full motor/ECU swap
VF34
STi 565cc injectors
Perrin rails
TXS hyperflow TMIC
Helix up
Perrin down
Bosal 3" catless exhaust.
Perrin shortram
Perrin inlet
Boost Cooler methanol injection
Stock (unflashed) ver 7 ECU

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Old 01-22-2005, 05:11 PM   #13
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Kreeger you are getting me excited when i do the swap i plan on doing the sti RA gearset to at the same time.

thanks for the info guys
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Old 01-22-2005, 05:17 PM   #14
scooby-stu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garface
Did they have a sale or is something wrong with it? They usually charge $4k, or did they lower their prices?
I hope there ain't nuttin wrong with it!

They told me the engine was a "test engine" it comes without ECU, IC, Turbo, and injectors. Still i think it was an awesome deal. They also told me to treat it like a new motor as it will need to be broken in.

You can go onto the vendor forum look under gruppe-s "container landed lots of JDM engines" something like that anways.
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Old 01-22-2005, 05:32 PM   #15
garface
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Oh, ok, it's cheaper because they left off a lot of expensive pieces. Still a good deal.

I sent you a PM.
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kreeger
I made 300WHP with a vf34 on my non-RA version 7 motor and it was set at only 10psi... yes, 10psi.

[/img]
hmm....what dyno was this at?
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:16 PM   #17
totoherbs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soon2Bgreat
hmm....what dyno was this at?
A high reading one.
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:33 PM   #18
scooby-stu
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[quote=garface]Oh, ok, it's cheaper because they left off a lot of expensive pieces. Still a good deal.

Yeah thats tru man but i have the cobb set up so all i really need is the ecu and I/C

How well do the FP greens do with this engine and what will it take to really have me pinned back in the seat?
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:38 PM   #19
garface
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The green will be a little bit laggy, but with AVCS it isn't terrible. Obviously it won't feel like a 2.5 liter STi does down low with a green, but that is the route that I'll be taking. Should throw you back in the seat between 4-5k from what people tell me. But it will keep you there until redline and want to keep going passed it. It depends on your tune though where it'll hit.
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zephyr250
Yes and then I'll go to the ATM Machine and get some money.

For the last ****in time it's Vehicle Identification Number not Vehicle Identification Number Number

And for the last time **** i do not need any bs something that small.

Oh and all we really need was the engine code off the front clip or the timing belt covers!!
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Old 01-23-2005, 02:37 AM   #21
codean
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I bought the other engine that they had for 2999 and Im quite sure its just the standard ver 7 engine. I think they have learned from their mistakes and know what the codes mean by now. Either way, even without the turbo, ecu and injectors, its a good deal for an engine with such low mileage.

Im kind of taken back by the fact that only after you bought the engine are you asking if youll feel a change. Why would you buy an engine without knowing what you are getting into?

Things that you should already know:

8000rpm redline
AVCS (active valve control system)
Forged crank, rods and pistons
Higher flowing heads then the standard WRX
NO TGVs

First off, you are going to need some form of engine management to get the engine running right. Without tumble generator valves your car will idle very rough with the tune you have and youll have added check engine codes. You could just use a jdm ecu with no engine management, but would have to run 100 octane fuel exclusively. Your also going to want the car wired up to run the avcs. Without it hooked up you will loose bottom end power due to the fact that the intake cams will be retarded. Again, you will need the jdm ecu for this with added wiring into the engine bay. Your best off buying a jdm v7 ecu and get a reflash or jdm sti utec to use with it.

Also while you have the trans removed from the car you should throw in a new clutch, throwout bearing and pilot bearing.

Any way your look at it, your going to be spending at least another grand to get the engine up and running the way it was meant to be.
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:25 AM   #22
scooby-stu
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Codean thanks for the info man i already knew most of it. I was asking the question in the first place because i was thinkin shall i just put on the turbo i have now(vf34) and injectors or just wait and go balls out with the fp green, will i enjoy the Ver7 with the vf34 being an empressive change from the cobb 2.5.

What would you guys do? Put the engine in Now within the firstweek or so cause you cant wait, and might not be that impressed or wait another month to have the green setup another $2500

and yes i know another 1000 revs

P.S "all respect" i didn't go into this completely blind
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Old 01-23-2005, 03:27 AM   #23
scooby-stu
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[quote=Kreeger]I made 300WHP with a vf34 on my non-RA version 7 motor and it was set at only 10psi... yes, 10psi.


My mods:

JDM ver 7 full motor/ECU swap
VF34
STi 565cc injectors
Perrin rails
TXS hyperflow TMIC
Helix up
Perrin down
Bosal 3" catless exhaust.
Perrin shortram
Perrin inlet
Boost Cooler methanol injection
Stock (unflashed) ver 7 ECU

Kind of answer i was looking for
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Old 01-23-2005, 08:47 AM   #24
Kreeger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soon2Bgreat
hmm....what dyno was this at?

It was a Dynojet... I was really shocked myself, but it was calibrated correctly and reading accurately.

Here is the thread:

http://www.wrxatlanta.com/bb/showthr...=&threadid=540

Still waiting for the shop to email me my dyno slip. Officially it was 304whp/289wtq.
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Old 01-23-2005, 12:31 PM   #25
codean
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Ok good, you just made it sound like you didn't have a clue lol. Please don't take offence.

I think the smartest thing you could do is just use the pink injectors and vf34 due to the fact your going to have to break the engine in.
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