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Old 05-24-2005, 02:01 AM   #51
pjhe
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adding sound deadening to an STi makes baby jesus cry
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Old 05-24-2005, 08:27 PM   #52
mvorchard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvorchard
First of all, once again: THANKS!!!

Now, a couple of clarifying questions

Please excuse some of them..... it might be my poor english giving me trouble............


Completely understood! Those rear doors WILL be sealed.



I'm having little trouble here understanding...... lower A pillars are like "front wheel wells"???



When you say 'rear hatch', you mean the whole trunk? Or just everything in the trunk above floor level??? How about trunk floor - is this included in 'rear hatch'?? Side panels as well??



What does that mean?



'Rear floor' meaning the floor under the rear passengers? Or the floor at the trunk?? I so need this clear as to make my priority list flawless



Got't!



So, by "rear areas" you mean the trunk, and all there???




Thank God you really love doing it......


Cheers,

MO
Rick,

Did you happen to see this? Is on the previous page


Thanks,

MO
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Old 05-25-2005, 04:58 AM   #53
raamaudio
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Done carefully it does not add a great deal of weight and makes the car much more civilized for those that would like to still have some hearing left when they get old, lol! Stock an STI is louder inside than my 72 Datsun was with no interior at all!

mvor,
Close, lower A pillars are right in front of the front doors, in front of those are the wheel wells

Rear hatch is refering to a wagons rear "door" The other areas are as you described in the question.

Rear floor is in a wagon, cargo area floor.

Rear areas can mean anything behind the rear seat.

Saw it but to dang tired to respond when I did.

Rickster
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Old 05-25-2005, 09:46 AM   #54
mvorchard
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Thanks!!!!
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:36 PM   #55
EdsWRX
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I just wanted a drop a quick thanks to Rick. He sent me well over the amount I paid for and he also made sure I would have it for today, first thing to come in out of everything I ordered last week is the ensolite, and I placed my order with rick late monday night. If you need any sound deadening or ensolite, he's the guy to get it from. He has a super sick under seat box coming out as well, I just can't afford it...yet. But a bump for a super nice guy and very very fast delivery, though he didn't have to be.
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Old 05-26-2005, 12:37 PM   #56
EdsWRX
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Thanks again rick, I'll post some pics of our sound deadening process as well
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Old 06-14-2005, 01:57 PM   #57
BiG 10
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Let's see some pics of a sound deadening install in progress
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Old 10-30-2005, 04:48 PM   #58
JPX
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Lightbulb 2006 WRX Wagon sound deadening in progress with pics

Finally someone asked. We started yesterday on my friend's WRX.

Here is how the stock doors look with the panels removed. I was surprised how similar the construction is between my 1996 Legacy and a 2006 Impreza. In either case there is no sound deadening on the out door skin. Even my 1971 Volkswagen had a 10"x12" piece of asphalt stuck to it's doors. At least Subaru installed some foam pads, but this is mostly to isolate the plastic panel from the metal.




One tip for removing the plastic....use a razor blade to cut the black adhesive if it doesn't pull off the metal. The adhesive will stick back to itself and you won't have to destroy the plastic.


We only installed a single layer (with a little overlap depending on how bad the piece got away from us - it was pretty sticky. The thin metal brace at the center of the door was cover along with the outer skin.


But we did not wrap the crush brace. The panel no longer "rings" when you rap it with knuckles. I noticed that on both my Legacy and his WRX that the front door rings a lot more than the rear door - and the really bad spot is the lower half of the door.


The inner skin was not completely covered. My friend decided to install a patch near the large flat area at the center of the door.

A speaker upgrade will also be included, so the panels are still off his car. I bought some jute (carpet padding) to install on the inside of the door panel. While we didn't get around to it on his car, I did put it on mine. The picture below is on the rear door of my Legacy. I put A LOT more on the driver's door. And the door sounds TIGHT when you close it.


More to come, but probably not until next weekend.

Last edited by JPX; 10-30-2005 at 05:47 PM.
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Old 11-01-2005, 05:21 PM   #59
greenchevette
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I cant wait to see more pics...

Good luck on the install!
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Old 11-07-2005, 03:38 AM   #60
JPX
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Smile

So we finally finished up the doors on the WRX. The carpet padding took way too much time as a lot of the material installed actually had to be removed to make sure the inner panels fit back on the doors correctly.


The last door to do was the driver's door where we doubled up the layering on the sound deadener. The door weighs more and more importantly does not ring when you tap on it. Road noise at the doors is greatly reduced. But you can still hear a lot of tire noise through the floor.

The next stage of the project will be pulling up the floor to install deadener and carpet padding.
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Old 11-07-2005, 01:14 PM   #61
MorallyBass
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I just finished doing the first phase RAAM mat application in my 04 STi, what a difference! I had already done my doors during my initial install, but had no deadening in my trunk or the rear deck/seat area.

I sealed up the rear deck with two layers of mat, and did a single layer over all of the large flat surfaces on the upper rear seat frame and wheel well. Total about 7 ft.^2 for this application. I sealed up all of the holes in the rear deck except for the two vent ports, I also used ensolite to wedge the middle seat belt bucket in place. No more rear deck vibration with trunk bass, much less tire noise off the wheels, and a little less exhaust sound. (Note: I have an amp board which already seals off the rear seat/trunk opening).

Great product! Rick was very responsive with details and advice, great guy.
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:52 PM   #62
greenchevette
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Great updates guys...

Keep us all posted of any new progress/reviews (with pics hopefully!)
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Old 11-07-2005, 08:39 PM   #63
aca2983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjhe
adding sound deadening to an STi makes baby jesus cry
...but at least when you are done you won't be able to hear him
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:34 PM   #64
woody77
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For reducing road noise through the floor and front wheel wells, use more mat, ensolite, or the jute up above? (which is best at which kind of frequencies?)

I'm going to be doing my WRX sedan sometime this winter, and want to formulate a plan of action. I'll do it in phases, and will be starting with the doors, then the a-pillars, and then work my way down/back as I can. It's daily driven, so it can't be left in the garage for more than a weekend or so.
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Old 11-13-2005, 05:14 AM   #65
JPX
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Doors are a great place to start because the results are immediately apparent at ear level - both in the total road noise passing through the door and the satisfying "thud" when close the door. You will definitely appreciate it the next time you pull beside a noisy diesel truck. You'll almost hear the diesel racket through your floor since the door is so "dead".

I'm not completely convinced about A-pillars. For the effort and time, just go directly to the floor. My friend is planning on tearing out the carpet and immediately bolting the driver's seat back in. That way he can still use the car while the project drags on.

We determined that the mat was only useful on metal that "rings". If it simply thumps when you tap it, don't waste your mat. You'd be better off putting down the ensolite or padding. For the roof it might make sense to use mat to reduce it's ringing sound - but getting behind that headliner on a sunroof car won't be a lot of fun.
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Old 11-13-2005, 12:32 PM   #66
raamaudio
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The A pillar area to be concerned with is the lower portion behind the kick panels. Pop them off and you will find under a bit of padding(or not) access holes into the pillars that can allow a fair amount of noise to enter from that location in the vehicle, near the front tires, etc.

All that needs to be done is use a patch of mat over the holes then a bit of foam over that. Not a big job and does not make a night and day noise difference but certainly worth doing it, especially considering how little material and time it takes

I agree to a point, the mat is Most Usefull on the resonate areas and when doing a minimal weight gain install they are the areas to mat, leave the other areas alone, then foam over all areas.

But, if you are going all out and want to gain every edge you can, just mat the whole floor and then go back and use a second layer over the resonate places, a good old thumb with your fist will let you know where it is needed. Then foam over all areas as above.

There is alot of high energy resonance that travels through the frame rails, pillars, etc, in all cars, especially those that come from the factory with very stiff suspension bushings.

Another level of deadening/chassis stiffening is obtainable with a great deal of work and a bit of cost, foam filling all voids throughout the car. We have completed our project car and it was quite an undertaking, it is a labor intensive, messy, just not fun job to say the least, lol! We just supplied a shop in the Portland area with the materials to fill to cars, one a totally built, stitch welded and fully caged WRX race car, the other a customers car. We are not in the business of selling such products but have access to a foam that is somewhat resonable and seems quite effective, sure made our car stiff!

I will let you guys know how this goes when I get feedback from them on their experiences, after checking out our car they really wanted to give this a go around.

Our car is going in next week sometime for a back half welded in chrome molly cage designed to be expandable to a full cage just in case we decide to make this a full race car sometime in the future. (Unfortunately not a Subaru

Rick
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Old 11-13-2005, 08:45 PM   #67
kheovnien
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how many yards of ensolite would u suggest for just the front 2 doors? and how many cans of spray adhesive? thanks
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Old 11-14-2005, 10:51 AM   #68
mikeyg
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Default worried about water

Just thought I'd add some info for those worried about water damaging your speakers which was covered earlier in the thread. I have 04 STI. I washed my car the other day with the door panels off and was able to see that a decent amount of water entered the door. I understand that this is not comparable to a rain because of the direction and pressure of the water spray, but we I wash my car a lot and wanted to see how this scenario was. What I saw was almost like a spray on the outer door skin right behind the where there speaker would go. It's hard to say what the culprit was for the water entering the door but here is my observation:

I didn't seem to see evidence that the water leaked down from the window seal or dropped from above based on the way the water was sprinkled on the door panel. Now, when I looked at the "gutter" in between the car and door where the stock wire looms runs, there is a ton of water that flys around in there. Granted it is designed to do this, I felt like if I could find an entry point there it would be a good starting point to help keep water out proactively. Firstly, has anyone tried plugging the small hole under the grommet of the stock wire loom on the door side of the loom. There is a small hole there about the size of one of the door panels clip holes. You can easily feel around for it or you can see it from the inside of the door if you haven't sealed it up too well. There was water all over this area and was coming in there easily. I put some silicone and tape to plug the hole. The only reason I can think this hole is there is to allow moisture to exit the door. I haven't washed again to see if this helped at all but will post some results if anyone wants to know.

Anyway, the reactive measure I took was to make a shield around the speaker with an XTC foam baffle but make a cutout on the bottom to allow air flow. If you view the baffle as a 360 degree circle. I probably cut out 90 degrees on the bottom so I could still get good water protection and left the back completely on. I am skeptical about how this is going to sound. But I am still working on my amp rack and haven't determined if the baffles are impeding the speakers too much.

On a side note, I installed the CDT CL-62s which are pretty deep speakers at 2.88 inch. So, the baffle messes up the clearance I obtained from the IAP spacers and grinding down that window guide piece. I did shorten the baffle a bit too and actually glued it to the speaker housing ( it's not going anywhere like this), but it's thick foam and there is still friction between the baffle and window piece. I may end up just not lowering the window that extra couple of inches so I can keep my rain guard there. This is my first car install and there is probably a better way but....
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:34 AM   #69
JPX
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So finally got around to working on the rest of the WRX wagon. The rear panels are a real leap of faith when you give them a big yank. Then more frustration awaits under the panels with the foam (nice foam by the way) and the white clips underneath. Take a close look at the design to help visualize how to extract them:



This website had some great reference material for removing the rear seat backs: http://www.freebmw.net/share/CarsBoatsBikes/Subaru/FSM/

We hit the spare tire well, most of the floor, the strut towers and the rear sill. We also slipped in a sheet on the fender behind the jack.


There is still some debate about bothering with matting under the rear seat cushion.
Next up is the front and rear floorboards. But this will have to wait since this really takes the car down.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:52 AM   #70
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Ya wanna hear something really amazing? Ditch the roof rails on a wagon and then go for a spin. The drop in wind noise at about 70 mph is surprising. I then added 2 layers of deadening and some ensolite and rain storms are MUCH more bearable now.
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Old 11-27-2005, 02:52 PM   #71
drees
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanH
Ya wanna hear something really amazing? Ditch the roof rails on a wagon and then go for a spin. The drop in wind noise at about 70 mph is surprising. I then added 2 layers of deadening and some ensolite and rain storms are MUCH more bearable now.
Really? Never heard of the roof rails making a difference in wind noise, but since they do, I now have a good excuse to remove them.
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Old 11-27-2005, 03:01 PM   #72
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Lets make no mistake...its not going to be compared with my wifes Volvo XC70 anytime soon....but it did make it a bit quieter.

And the best excuse I can think of to remove them is how it looks without them. SOOO much better.
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:08 PM   #73
generalwrx
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has anyone tried the spray foam type stuff? i was wondering how effective it really is and how much it costs and what the weight would be. Maybe it was mentioned before, i know it was in the thread starter. The stuff that you squeeze and it expands, like the home depot stuff. What is the German stuff called and where is it available? thanks. great write up.
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Old 11-27-2005, 06:48 PM   #74
AcquaCow
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Quote:
Originally Posted by generalwrx
has anyone tried the spray foam type stuff? i was wondering how effective it really is and how much it costs and what the weight would be. Maybe it was mentioned before, i know it was in the thread starter. The stuff that you squeeze and it expands, like the home depot stuff. What is the German stuff called and where is it available? thanks. great write up.
I haven't seen any real uses for the "Great Stuff" expanding foam in an Impreza.

It's kinda messy to deal with too.

-- Dave
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Old 11-27-2005, 08:47 PM   #75
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great thread, I should come over here more often.
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