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Old 12-15-2006, 01:45 PM   #126
shotoyan
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This is a great thread. I've got a quick question for Rick or for anybody that's done this work on a WRX sedan: How do I handle insulating the trunk pass-thru?
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Old 12-15-2006, 05:20 PM   #127
Limited035
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I sound deadened my trunk, trunk lid. Going to SD my rear deck and all 4 doors also. Leaving pass through down (open) so sub can reach my ears better. Why do you want to insulate your passthrough?
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Old 12-15-2006, 06:28 PM   #128
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If you have a sub in the trunk consider sealing all the area between the cabin and trunk and have the sub aiming through the pass through into the cabin. This way you would not have to deaden the trunk at all. Having the sub fire into the cabin is the only way I like my bass, IB is #1, sealed box firing in is second in my preferences. For those with out a pass through or do not want IB(weight mounted up high) there is the under seat options.

If you must insolate the pass through you could do so several ways, depends on if permanently sealed or still usable, let me know, I will see what I can come up with for ideas besides having a sub firing through and the rest all sealed.

If not interested in audio you can skip the outer skin part of the deadening and just seal up everything on the inner metal areas to block road noise and heat/cold transfer.

The use of the metal over the door access holes is to prevent unsuported mat from flexing thus changing the air volume while the midbass is playing, inducing more distortion.

I recommend just a small patch of foam behind the door speakers, I have tested more as well as others have, it usually muddies up the midbass response in the vocal range for some reason I have not researched why though.

If anybody here is having trouble getting ahold of me, I am just insanely swamped(but need a break from my business at least once in awhile and I am having some website and email issues. Bad timing, just trying to get by until after the first of the year and then looking into a new web designer and maybe hosting company.

Sincerely,
Rick

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Old 12-15-2006, 07:08 PM   #129
shotoyan
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I'm doing the insulation to minimize road noise & exhaust drone...I liked the idea of insulating the back seat & parcel shelf, and not having to insulate the trunk. I guess I could permanently seal over the pass-thru but I'd rather come up with something that keeps it functional. I really appreciate the help

Also, I dropped you a PM earlier about puchasing the mat & foam I need...no rush though if you're busy, take your time
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Old 01-18-2007, 10:45 AM   #130
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um so for the ensolite, do you glue it to the mat or will it be ok to glue it to the door card?
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Old 01-18-2007, 11:11 AM   #131
Limited035
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I've glued Overkill (2nd skin audio version of closed cell foam) to both the mat and the plastic door panel, no problems. I put it where it would fit best.
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Old 02-02-2007, 06:57 PM   #132
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I'm in the middle of SD'ing the WRX and I have a few questions.

1. What are the functions of mat and foam? My only goal is to reduce road noise and if mat is strictly for audio, then do I really need it? Is it better to use one product more than the other or is using both the best way to reduce road noise?

2. When you talk about not mating over the rear deck vents, where are these located? I matted the rear deck from the trunk but did not mat the top part. It was late and I didn't want to try and take off the top part of the rear deck. Should I go back and redo the top?

Thanks and this thread inspired me to take on this project.
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:06 PM   #133
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The mat helps deaden panel vibration, and so the transmittance of road noise through the panel and/or "ringing" from panel vibration. The mat has a diminishing return, where one layer will do wonders, then another layer will only provide a little more deadening, and so on.

The foam helps deaden sound/noise that's already transmitted - like from speakers and panels. So, both work well together.

I'll let someone else respond about the rear deck
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Old 02-02-2007, 07:43 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanton View Post
The mat helps deaden panel vibration, and so the transmittance of road noise through the panel and/or "ringing" from panel vibration. The mat has a diminishing return, where one layer will do wonders, then another layer will only provide a little more deadening, and so on.

The foam helps deaden sound/noise that's already transmitted - like from speakers and panels. So, both work well together.

I'll let someone else respond about the rear deck
I think you kind of have it backwards. The mat does help with panel vibration, but not so much with road noise. It's mostly to keep the metal from resonating due to the speakers playing. The foam is more to stop road noise, but it also helps cushion the plastic door panel from the metal door skin. So it cuts down on vibrations that way as well. When used directly behind the speaker, the foam also helps prevent the rear sound wave from reflecting back towards the speaker, similar to a Deflex pad or using egg crate foam.
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Old 02-02-2007, 08:21 PM   #135
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I should have clarified. Both help stop road noise. You're not alone in thinking the panels only boom or ring. Noise easily travels through the thin sheet metal; whether it's noise from the outside, or vibration induced by something inside. Getting the panels to stop acting as a sound source is the first step.
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Old 02-02-2007, 08:54 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanton View Post
I should have clarified. Both help stop road noise. You're not alone in thinking the panels only boom or ring. Noise easily travels through the thin sheet metal; whether it's noise from the outside, or vibration induced by something inside. Getting the panels to stop acting as a sound source is the first step.
I agree completely. I understand that the panels transmit road noise as well as resonance from the speakers. Im just under the impression from what I've read that Ensolite type foam was designed to combat the frequencies associated with road noise. More so than regular deadening, which is mostly a mass loader to lower resonances from the metal panels. I'm sure that they both help with road noiseto an extent, but I think the foam is more effective.
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Old 02-02-2007, 08:58 PM   #137
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Old 02-02-2007, 09:31 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khail19 View Post
I agree completely. I understand that the panels transmit road noise as well as resonance from the speakers. Im just under the impression from what I've read that Ensolite type foam was designed to combat the frequencies associated with road noise. More so than regular deadening, which is mostly a mass loader to lower resonances from the metal panels. I'm sure that they both help with road noiseto an extent, but I think the foam is more effective.
Sorry to others for getting a little OT...

You raise good points. For a given span (panel), its weight and stiffness will determine its resonant frequency. Bang a panel, and you will hear a resonant frequency and some harmonics. Making the panel heavier will lower its resonant frequency. Through a function of energy conservation, it will also sound quieter. That resonance is different animal than transmittance.

Bang on a picture window and it will vibrate at a low frequency. You can still hear noise on the other side of that window that aren't at the resonant frequency. Pushing your palm on the window will make it resonate at a lower frequency (and more quietly), but it will still conduct other noise "fairly well". You'll still hear the random noise from the other side. Mat over the whole window and you will both dampen the resonance and noise from the other side.

I'm not saying mat is a replacement for foam, but, again, the panel becomes a source of noise beyond resonance, so reducing that noise "at the source" is a good idea. Foam will still do its job well to reduce it further.
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:05 PM   #139
o2sys
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im still confused if im suppose to cover the out layer of the door panel completely or where ever my hands can reach....

also for the rear seats am i suppose to cover inch by inch of just chunks...
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Old 02-22-2007, 05:41 PM   #140
ASpec818
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i have raammated my whole trunk: the floor, sides, and the lid with one layer. however it still rattles bad outside. any other ideas? it has something to do with the trunk lid touching the car because if i pop the trunk, the rattle would stop. once i close it the rattles would come back.
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Old 02-22-2007, 07:30 PM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASpec818 View Post
i have raammated my whole trunk: the floor, sides, and the lid with one layer. however it still rattles bad outside. any other ideas? it has something to do with the trunk lid touching the car because if i pop the trunk, the rattle would stop. once i close it the rattles would come back.
some options:
-something inside the trunk lid itself?
-loose 'clasp' or reciever? (metal parts that actually lock together to hold the trunk down)
-loose trunk lid? (check the four bolts that hold the lid to the car
-loose wing/bolts (if you have a wing)
-long shot, but maybe it's not actually the lid. Having it open may be changing where the sound bounces such that it is no longer causing the rattle.
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Old 02-22-2007, 08:48 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shemoves View Post
some options:
-something inside the trunk lid itself?
-loose 'clasp' or reciever? (metal parts that actually lock together to hold the trunk down)
-loose trunk lid? (check the four bolts that hold the lid to the car
-loose wing/bolts (if you have a wing)
-long shot, but maybe it's not actually the lid. Having it open may be changing where the sound bounces such that it is no longer causing the rattle.
Heres another option.

Take the sup out of the trunk and put it in the passenger compartment like i did. I have almost no rattles at all at full volume.



~v6
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Old 02-22-2007, 11:30 PM   #143
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Haha, yes, that will fix it, going to have one up front in our FXT someday soon I hope

Try getting out of the car, walking around, put your weight on a few areas, listen carefully, etc. If that does not help use a test tone CD and play individual frequencies until it hits the resonate one of the offending area(s), you can easily find the problem that way.

Hope this helps!
Rick
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Old 02-23-2007, 11:11 AM   #144
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and my question?
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Old 02-28-2007, 11:21 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raamaudio View Post
Haha, yes, that will fix it, going to have one up front in our FXT someday soon I hope

Try getting out of the car, walking around, put your weight on a few areas, listen carefully, etc. If that does not help use a test tone CD and play individual frequencies until it hits the resonate one of the offending area(s), you can easily find the problem that way.

Hope this helps!
Rick
hey rick, when i push my trunk lid down with some weight, the rattles would quiet down a little. i think its the edge of my trunk lid (all around) rattling against the body. maybe i didn't raammat the lid sufficiently? do you have a picture of how your sti lid is raammated? i didnt raammat the edges of the lid where it would meet the rubber sealing of the trunk. any ideas?
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:31 AM   #146
bthomas
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I finally got into the garage and did my front two doors yesterday with Rickís great products. It only took about 30 minutes per door, and I didnít mind doing it at all.

Iíve yet to mount my components, so I left the speaker hole open for now, otherwise everything has mat and ensolite as according to Rickís procedures on page 1.

Road noise is lower, although now I have to fix all this wind noise that is seeping through the top of my window. I think Iím going to try a shoelace in the rubber linner around the door. Itís help in past cars.

I really look forward to hearing how my speakers will sound with the new deadening.

Next up, rears with no speakers and rear deck.

Iím putting sti carpet in my wrx in a few weeks, and I think Iím going to have some ensolite left over. Has anyone put just ensolite down on their floor and with what kind of results?

Thanks Rick!
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:31 PM   #147
raamaudio
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I do not own an STI but have worked on 4 of them, only one was matted in the trunk, the others had up front subs. If your trunk lid is still rattling that bad maybe you have a pretty massive sub system? If so then look at adjusting the latch to hold it tighter or adding some rubber bumpers, lifting the gasket and adding a spacer under it, etc, etc.

Rick
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:35 PM   #148
raamaudio
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Yes, thickening the gasket aroud the widow may help allot, I would use a single sided foam gasket tape though, will not hold moisture. I will experiment with that once I finally find some time to do the sound deadening in our FXT(dang business is eating most all my time now though

I like to cover as much of the outer skin of the doors as I can but if you cannot reach some areas that is ok, they are further from the speaker and less likely to be an issue.

It will help to put the foam under the carpet, a good use for it. Not as good as mat and foam of course but it will still help.

Rick
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:51 PM   #149
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Rick,

I E-mailed you with a few questions.

Thanks
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Old 05-23-2007, 03:28 PM   #150
ERIKBROCKHOFF
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Im looking for some sound deading matieral for trunk and doors of my 02 wrx and looks like this might be the right place does rick sell the stuff? PM if you do so I can find you again
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