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Old 02-14-2005, 05:00 PM   #26
Silver04WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie
The SAE has a range for each oil viscosity. This Advance Auto Parts site has good info.

"SAE 30 is SAE 30 no matter what the "W" prefix number is: 0W, 5W or 10W. This viscosity in centistokes (cSt) @ 100 degrees C is with the minimum of 9.3 cSt and a maximum of 12.5 cSt."

You can have two 5W30's with the thickness of one on the lower end of the range and the other on the higher end. Generally speaking, the one on the higher end will probably give you more protection. For example, M1 10W30 is 10.0 Cst @ 100C and German Syntec 0W30 is around 12.3 (IIRC). You're probably going to get better protection from the Syntec (then there's additives, base stocks, etc.).

You would think that all 30 weights would be the same, but that's not the case.

-Dennis
Is it bad to have too many additives? I've been looking into Mobil 1 Extended Performance. They said they increased the amount of syper syn and other stuff over the regular Mobil 1 synthetic. They claim it will hold up for at least 15,000 miles or 1 year.
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Old 02-14-2005, 09:11 PM   #27
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I just saw those Extended performance oils at Kragens. I'll have to check into those. Interesting. There is a 7500 and a 15000 version.
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:08 PM   #28
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I just bought a jug of the 10w30 EP15000 M1 at wallyworld, by mistake....it was for someone else, I wanna run the 5w40 SUV/truck....it cost $23.xx rather than $19.88 for the regular M1.....
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Old 02-15-2005, 09:11 AM   #29
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There are a couple of voa's on BITOG on M1 Extended Performance.

-Dennis
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:27 AM   #30
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The 7500 mile version is a synthetic blend. The 15,000 is a full synthetic.

I hope this isn't a stupid question....

Would it be ok to use M1 Extended Performance in a turbocharged car for 15,000 miles?
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:54 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver04WRX
Would it be ok to use M1 Extended Performance in a turbocharged car for 15,000 miles?
The oil might be able to last for 15,000 miles, and a used oil analysis would verify it. But you're not following warranty requirements if you exceed 7,500 miles.

From mobil1.com:
Quote:
Mobil 1 Extended Performance with the Advanced SuperSyn System helps keep engines running like new and helps extend engine life by reducing wear and oil breakdown. Please follow the recommendations in your owner's manual while your car is under warranty.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 02-15-2005 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:08 PM   #32
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Been doing some research, maybe you guys/gals can help me out. I will be picking up my new STi on Monday. I know to use pure dino oil for the first two or three, but, what brand/weight/viscosity should I use? I will then be using full synth after that. I am pretty sold on Mobil 1, but have read the the Amsoil is better. Which brand should i get (open to any suggestions). Also, what weight viscosity should I use? I will be living in Phoenix which gets around 105 degs in summer and 40 in winter. I am willing to adjust per season. My desire is the best protection/performance. Environmental stuff is a concern but the performance and longevity of my vehicle are much greater concerns (or would have bought a civic). On to more research

ahh yes...i'd like to stick to the manual's suggested stuff...but not super-picky...as long as it is in there somewhere

Last edited by shemoves; 03-02-2005 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 03-02-2005, 07:54 PM   #33
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Use whatever Synth is recommended in your manual for breakin. After that I would highly recommend Castrol Synthetic 0w-30w, or German Castrol as they call it. There are two kinds of Castrol synth 0-30, one US made, one German. The Autozone usually has it, and they don't differentiate between the types, it is all mixed up in the inventory.

You have to look at the back of the bottle, it will say Made in Germany. It is green and smells different, too.

Anyway, it performs amazingly well in all temps, freezing cold to desert temps. Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com , and post your question there, and see what the advice is.

I would consider Redline in that car too.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:20 AM   #34
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Whatever you do, don't run M1 5W30 in the summer in Phoenix. If you run M1, use 10W30 for you winter oil.

When you get the car, check the owner's manual for recommended viscosities for the temps you drive in. If you do that, you'll be ahead of a lot of people on this board.

-Dennis
using the German Castrol
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Old 03-03-2005, 04:20 PM   #35
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I'll do some research on that german stuff. Is there one brand that is best in everything (even if I have to change viscosities)? As of now it is between M1, Amsoil, Redline, and "the jerman juice." Im not nearly as pro M1 as I was before...it seemed to break down too easy under demanding driving. Also, I will always idle-warm and cool the car, and will be doing 3k OCI.
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Old 03-03-2005, 04:46 PM   #36
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why is the stuff made in germany better?
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:42 PM   #37
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What does HTHS stand for?
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:34 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shemoves
why is the stuff made in germany better?
Because it's a true Group IV synthetic like M1 (with speculation of some Group V ester basestocks). It's also one of the thickest synthetic 30 weights and does an excellent job of keeping it's viscosity. It's only available as a 0W30 at Autozone in the U.S. and a couple of places in Canada.

Quote:
What does HTHS stand for?
High Temp High Shear. The higher the HTHS, the better chance it will stay in grade.

-Dennis
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Old 03-04-2005, 10:04 PM   #39
Tim Sanderson
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Sorry if I'm a little off topic or if this has been stated already. This is directed towards people with the consumption problems. Get a comp. check.

1 qt/1k miles is very BS. It's acceptable to them beacuse they don't want to replace shortblocks all day.
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Old 03-05-2005, 12:12 AM   #40
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It seems many here are not too fond of M1 5W-30 in their Subies. I know it's a thin 30 weight and can shear out of grade, but has anybody actually done a UOA and experienced this? I read about the STi over on BITOG shearing out of grade in less than 2500 miles, but that was with conventional Mobil oil.

I'm just wondering because my car seems very happy with M1 5W-30. I plan on doing a UOA at my next oil change to see exactly how, as I was considering switching to M1 10W-30. I lose virtually no oil during a 6K mile OCI. I'm at 4K miles now and when I wiped the dipstick on a cloth to check the level, the spots were still light/med brown. I know, I know...color isn't a good indicator, but if at 4K miles it's still not dark it can't be a bad thing!
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Old 03-07-2005, 08:57 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by esteve
It seems many here are not too fond of M1 5W-30 in their Subies. I know it's a thin 30 weight and can shear out of grade, but has anybody actually done a UOA and experienced this? I read about the STi over on BITOG shearing out of grade in less than 2500 miles, but that was with conventional Mobil oil.

I'm just wondering because my car seems very happy with M1 5W-30. I plan on doing a UOA at my next oil change to see exactly how, as I was considering switching to M1 10W-30. I lose virtually no oil during a 6K mile OCI. I'm at 4K miles now and when I wiped the dipstick on a cloth to check the level, the spots were still light/med brown. I know, I know...color isn't a good indicator, but if at 4K miles it's still not dark it can't be a bad thing!
At 5,700 miles on my XT, M1 5W30 viscosity was 9.58 (virgin is around 10.0). That's still a 30 weight, but I'd be happier with oil that is a little thicker. M1 10W30 had viscosity of 9.95 under similar mileage on my WRX.

-Dennis
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