Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Thursday July 10, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Service & Maintenance

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-07-2005, 06:42 PM   #1
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Outback Sport Pay shop or DIY Timing Belt Tensioner and inner drive belt

So I have two problems with my 1997 Impreza Outback Sport currently.
One is that the timing belt tensioner is the source of a loud diesel-like clapping, often when my car is cold, but sometimes when it is quite warm. I can buy the assembly for $90 online.
The other problem is a squeaky belt. It's the inner of the two belts, so it would require some effort to remove both belts and replace just the inner (and reinstall the outer). I can get a good new belt for $20.
I have a friend who has a quite a bit of car knowledge, and a timing gun. I was wondering if you thought it was very feasible for him and I to do this job ourselves (just how involved is it?) as it doesn't seem all too difficult. My local shop wants $60 to replace the belt and $340 to replace the timing belt tensioner. Those seem like steep prices to me, and since I do all the regular maintenance on my car anyway, paying someone exorbitant prices to do something I can do myself seems a bit ridiculous.

Also, I think my car just started leaking oil because the place that I had the oil changed (about 3 weeks ago) overfilled it (bastards). Is that a likely cause of the leak, and should I hold them responsible for the leak and the fixing thereof since I had all the oil seals on the engine replaced about 25K miles ago due to a previous oil leak? Opinions on that too? Thanks!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2005, 07:58 PM   #2
Tim Sanderson
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 6486
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: S.E. wisconsin
Vehicle:
00 Impreza 2.5 RS
Blue Ridge Pearl

Default

If you hav some tools you can do the job yourself. The new tensioner comes with the cylinder compressed and pinned already. This job has been covered many times(search).

About the oil leak; it's going to happen, it's a subaru. Find the leak first of all. If it turns out to be the front main or the oil pump grommet then you can knock all that stuff out in one shot and save some big dollars.

Go for it.
Tim Sanderson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2005, 10:24 PM   #3
North Ursalia
Miss You Mom
Oct 1940 - Feb 2008

Super Moderator
 
Member#: 809
Join Date: Jan 2000
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: NH, Land Of Many Trees
Vehicle:
2000 2.5 RS, '14 For
92 5MT SVX

Default

You won't need the timing gun, as you can't adjust it like that . Both accessory belts from dealership list out at about $25- don't pay $20 for just one.


Brian

North Ursalia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2005, 10:31 PM   #4
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

Should I pay the $20 for a day license and download all the PDF's for my car, or should I just buy a manual for a '96 Impreza with the 2.2L engine, and use it for the directions on the job?
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-07-2005, 10:59 PM   #5
R_W
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 76896
Join Date: Dec 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Default

Subaru limits the number of downloads you can do per hour, so it is tough to get the whole manual with one day license. That said, I find the electronic versions to be handy. When I have a job to do, I'll print out the respective pages, and laminate them at work. Then I put them in a binder. Makes using them with greasy fingers not so bad...
R_W is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 05:18 AM   #6
armand1
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 10309
Join Date: Sep 2001
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Seattle, WA
Vehicle:
'02 OBS 2-tone!
'95 Montego Miata

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by R_W
Subaru limits the number of downloads you can do per hour, so it is tough to get the whole manual with one day license. That said, I find the electronic versions to be handy. When I have a job to do, I'll print out the respective pages, and laminate them at work. Then I put them in a binder. Makes using them with greasy fingers not so bad...
I think it's actually a 3-day license. For many of the pre-'02 Imprezas, to get an up-to-date set of paper manuals for your year, IIRC you have to buy multiple year sets -- it's not just a single year's paper manual. Thus, you're probably better off going the techinfo.subaru.com route.
Just to make sure there are no problems, I'd make sure you are getting OEM belts, not aftermarket belts.
armand1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 08:48 AM   #7
R_W
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 76896
Join Date: Dec 2004
Chapter/Region: South East
Default

Thanks for the correction. I think I'd agree, and go with the electronic.

RW
R_W is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2005, 10:52 AM   #8
Charlie-III
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: 07456, North NJ
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper Wagon

Default

Get a Haynes manual for either your car (if there is one) or the "up to 99" Legacy. Basically the same info for either one.

Since you have a friend with knowledge and tools, do it yourself.

Figure 1/2 a day the first time. This is start to finish and includes belts.
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2005, 11:46 PM   #9
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

Charlie,
Is the 1/2 day estimate for the timing belt tension adjuster and the belt, or just the belt? I am guessing both, but I don't want to have it be just the belt, and get in way over my head.
As far as the techinfo.subaru.com, I can't seem to find which manual I need. Anyone want to help me find the proper one for changing the tension adjuster and belts so I don't commit to the wrong thing? Thanks!
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2005, 05:05 PM   #10
Charlie-III
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 30669
Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: 07456, North NJ
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper Wagon

Default

1/2 day is for both, since the tensioner needs to come off to do the timing belt.

Get the Haynes manual, it is close enough for what you need and is maybe $20.
Charlie-III is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-13-2005, 08:54 PM   #11
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

Okay,
So to clarify some potential confusion.
I am not changing the timing belt, unless removal thereof is required in order to change the timing belt tension adjuster.
I am changing the inner of the two belts, I believe it is the air conditioning belt. It is the narrower of the two belts. I hope that clarifies things up.
And FYI, unless someone can prove me wrong, there is no Haynes, nor any other manual for my car. That is why I'm looking at the techinfo.subaru.com route.
AGAIN, if ANYONE has ANY advice on which manual to download for the timing belt tension adjuster swap, I'd really appreciate the help. Thanks!
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2005, 02:04 PM   #12
tompetey
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 73034
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
Vehicle:
MY02 OBS

Default

Check your PMs for some helpful information. I have included some info that may help you!
tompetey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2005, 09:28 AM   #13
Porter
NASIOC Supporter
 
Member#: 486
Join Date: Nov 1999
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Roanoke, VA
Vehicle:
2004 Forester XT
bug spattered

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by tompetey
Check your PMs for some helpful information. I have included some info that may help you!
If there's helpful information, put it in the thread so that everyone may benefit from it.

Thanks!
Porter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2005, 01:15 AM   #14
happyparrot
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 61896
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kirkland, Wa.
Vehicle:
1998 2.5rs S/C
RBP

Default

Replacing a T-belt on a subaru is extremely easy, you would have to remove the two belts regardless to get to the timing belt, and it only takes like 5 minutes to remove those. My only advice to replacing the timing belt is remove the radiator first, its going to give you SOO MUCH EXTRA room to work, oh and make sure the T belt arrow is pointing the correct direction, and once you release the tensioner one of the sprockets is going to move over a little bit, so it might look like it's off by a tooth or so (completely normal).
Your oil leak is really unlikely to be caused by a overfill, if anything an overfill would make the oil more dense, a bad PCV probably caused the oil leak because you might fuel that mixed with oil and ate some gaskets. + subarus are notorious for having leaky valve cover gaskets.
Hope this helps...
Edit: PM me your email I'll scan a copy of the manual on how to change your T-belt tensioner, and T-belt.
happyparrot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 01:42 PM   #15
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

A friend hooked me up with the appropriate part of the manual already, but thanks!

Now, upon looking at the directions, I have a couple questions (note: I am only doing this to replace the timing belt tension adjuster since it alone is bad):
Should I replace the timing belt while I'm at it? My car is at 115K, and the timing belt was replaced at 92K.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the crankshaft pulley without the special tools?
Do I really need to remove the timing belt, guide pulleys and all the other non-toothed pulleys before I can take off the old timing belt tension adjuster? It looks like I can just take the timing belt covers off, and simply remove and install the tensioner without touching anything else. Is this really possible? That way I wouldn't have to deal with all the markings...

Oh, and HappyParrot,
I replaced the PCV about 1000 miles ago, so I don't think that a bad PCV caused the oil leak. However, upon changing the oil to high mileage, I haven't been smelling the burning oil like I did when I took the car to redline. Maybe it was just the wrong type of oil, or just a "one time leak," if there is such a thing? I did notice some leakage of coolant, but upon wiping that up, I think that it was just spillage from when I topped it off last. Maybe it's all in my head
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 02:10 PM   #16
Tim Sanderson
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 6486
Join Date: May 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: S.E. wisconsin
Vehicle:
00 Impreza 2.5 RS
Blue Ridge Pearl

Default

No, you really don't need to remove the timing belt to remove the tensioner.

Usually the crank pulley bolt can be removed with a 1/2" ratchet and a hammer(car in gear). If not, find the access hole plug on the passenger side rear(below throttle body) and pull off the plug. Use a pry bar to stop the flywheel from rotating and then use a braeker bar on the crank bolt. This is a two handed operation. The longer the bars the easier it is. Reinstallation is just the opposite and just as easy.

I don't believe you need to replace the timing belt at this time unless you find excessive wear or if it's soaked with oil.
Tim Sanderson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 02:35 PM   #17
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

Thanks Tim! I just ordered the parts, and should do the job sometime next week. I'll post on how it went The tension adjuster and belt were under $100 too
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 03:09 PM   #18
tompetey
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 73034
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Rochester, NY
Vehicle:
MY02 OBS

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Porter
If there's helpful information, put it in the thread so that everyone may benefit from it.

Thanks!
Unfortunately, it is not something everyone can see! All I sent was a "diagram" on how to replace the timing belt so he didn't have to jump through hoops with buying a bunch of confusing downloads in order to perform such a straight-forward repair. I would be more than happy to offer it but the mods frown on this due to copyright issues. I wasn't trying to "hide" anything from the forum, just keeping the mods happy
tompetey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 08:13 PM   #19
ImprezaVA
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 32846
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Elkton, VA
Vehicle:
1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Default Timing belt

ImprezaVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 08:28 PM   #20
ImprezaVA
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 32846
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Elkton, VA
Vehicle:
1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Post timing belt

If for some reason you can't get the crank gear/sprocket off (not the pulley) try spraying some brake cleaner on it. Do not attempt to pry this off. It should slide right off the keyway. If you break off any of those little ears, your crank sensor will "sense" this and your car will not start.

Label everything, especially the idler pulley's. I use a Sharpie to mark every bolt, belt, pulley, etc. to ease installation.

Your car is a 2.2, so it's non-interference, but the driver's side cam gear will be under tension and will snap back upon easing the tension on the belt. Although it's non-interference, I try to have someone hold the gear (17mm bolt IIRC) to prevent this. It will also be helpful to have an extra set of hands to put the timing belt on. I don't know how everyone else does it but you can rotate the t-belt on by turning the cam gear(s) or put the belt on and install the bottom idler pulley last IIRC. Just make sure the belt doesn't "jump" teeth. You will hear it if it does.

Read/search about removing crank pulley bolt. Replace everything in there that hasn't been replaced already (crank seal, cam seals, replace oil pump o-ring and tighten/apply loc-tite to the oil pump screws located in the back of the oil pump, replace water pump, thermostat, etc. Not necessary, but why not if you have the money and only want to tear it apart once?

-Charles-
ImprezaVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2005, 08:33 PM   #21
ImprezaVA
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 32846
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Elkton, VA
Vehicle:
1998 Impreza L-SOLD
Arcadia Green

Default

Nothing like real pictures to help you out. Thank Legacy777 for these:
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...es/timingbelt/

-Charles-
ImprezaVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2005, 01:18 PM   #22
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

Thanks for the links guys. I think they may help me some, but they are for the pre-'97 engine, which has a different style tension adjuster in a different location. I think that since I am just replacing the tension adjuster, I will simply remove and replace that while making sure that the timing belt doesn't adjust notches. I will even make sure it's marked properly prior to removal of the tensioner
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-25-2005, 12:01 AM   #23
erikkellison
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 67412
Join Date: Aug 2004
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Federal Way, WA
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
White

Default

Well, mission accomplished! A huge thanks to all who gave me some solid input as it was all used in this mission
My engine runs quietly now... no more diesel sound, no more squeaky belt. It took me about 5 hours to do it (once I saw the parts on my doorstep, I went at it because I figured that I had the time to do it then). I had the timing belt skip teeth while removing the tensioner, and then had my friend come over to alleviate problems. Wow, I hate my shop now. Not that it matters a ton, but they installed the timing belt backwards, and as such, none of the alignment lines lined up properly. This made remedying the skipped tooth problem impossible without flipping the belt. So, I got to learn all about "top dead center" and how to align everything for replacing a timing belt. At least I know how now, if the need ever arises. I didn't replace any seals or anything like that because this job was solely for the diesel sound and the squeaky belt. However, if something goes bad, I know what to do, and more importantly, know that I can do it myself!
I feel so empowered...
erikkellison is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2005, 02:28 AM   #24
Kyguy
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 38705
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Portland, Oregon
Vehicle:
'95 GM2 Rally Car
& '08 WRX

Default

Good job dude I'm glad that my car landed in CA, I can wait until 105k for my belt replacement
Kyguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
70,000 Miles, Timing belt tensioner and small idler shot johnniebravo Mid Atlantic Impreza Club -- MAIC 5 04-12-2010 06:29 PM
Used Parts / yard sale: Prodrive EBCS, ej257, timing belt tensioner and Water Pump @@ IA Performance Engine/Power/Exhaust 1 08-03-2009 11:13 AM
2.2L timing belt tensioner and pulley NIB gavinl 1993 - 2001 Impreza Specific Parts 0 12-25-2008 01:42 PM
WTB: Timing belt tensioner and waterpump burm Private 'Wanted' Classifieds 2 03-13-2008 11:24 AM
Price on Labor/Parts for New Timing Belt, Tensioner, and Gaskets WolfPlayer Mid Atlantic Impreza Club -- MAIC 0 03-30-2005 11:27 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:31 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.