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Old 02-15-2005, 10:00 PM   #1
elhalisf
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Default Your Bulbs keep burning out (headlights, foglights, whatever) Read this.

Will I think I have found the cause why people including myself seem to burn out bulbs way before they are supposed to. As early as next day or 2 or 3 weeks after install. This usually happens with aftermarket bulbs as the OEM bulbs are more durable.

I was pulling up my driveway, lights shining on my garage, everything is fine. I finish pulling up and right before I turn off the car on, headlight is burnt out. Damnit I just replaced this Sylvania about 1 month ago.

That month back when I replaced this bulb, I was working on Raammating my car. Of course stupid me had the stereo on and the battery was practically dead. Well after the first crank, my headlight bulb burnt out. Second crank, foglight bulb and side marker bulb burnt out.

This along with the 2 or 3 other sylvanias that have burnt out lead to believe this conclusion.

When going up a driveway, my car almost stalled, cut power to the headlights for a split second and turned them back on....burnt bulb.
When cranking the car, same concept, amps drawn away from the lights while cranking, and immediately sent back to them the second I stopped...burnt bulbS. The foglight bulb and side marker bulbs were stock however.

I had the OEM bulbs for about 6 months and they never burnt out this way even though I pull up the same driveway and get close to stalling it on occassion. I am pretty sure, even though I dont have the direct experience, that Sylvania will not be the only bulb to short out because of such scenario. I usually get them replaced for free but its beginning to become a pain in the arse.

Burn the clutch much quicker if I rev like crazy going up the driveway?
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:15 PM   #2
OneOBS
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1. Don't start the car with any electrical load other than the starter. No lights, no AC, no blingin' ice, nada.

2. Have your charging system and your battery checked out. Your voltage may be varying way more than it should (even though you have all that other stuff turned on when trying to start the car). Autozone and Sears and other places will check it free.
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Old 02-15-2005, 10:18 PM   #3
elhalisf
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I was thinking of getting an optima red or yellowtop. What do you think?
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Old 02-15-2005, 11:12 PM   #4
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I popped my drivers side low beam and foglight within a week of each other. I decided to remove the DRL feature in case that had something to do with it, something for you to consider too.
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Old 02-15-2005, 11:27 PM   #5
elhalisf
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Where is the plug for those located? I didnt think Michigan cars required DRL's yet again my car was from Ohio.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:27 AM   #6
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It's hard to say, try searching. You can remove a plug behind the glove box or one near the passenger side strut tower. I did the one by the strut tower as it is far easier to get to. It's one of those pain in the ass connectors that you have to lift and pull in about 80 different directions to defeat the protections so you can pop it loose.
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:48 AM   #7
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Here's where you disable the main DRL switch/plug behind the glovebox. With finesse, some have managed to unplug it without taking the glovebox out (smaller hands help). If you're one that gets easily frustrated, I would suggest taking some extra time and taking out the screws to the glovebox

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Old 02-16-2005, 10:26 AM   #8
bigballin
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have any other pictures of the plug to unplug not so close up
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Old 02-16-2005, 10:32 AM   #9
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that's awesome, I hate my DRLs! I am assuming this is a stupid question but, will I disable or hurt anything else by unplugging that clip?
Even better, is there a way to turn on the fogs without having to turn on the headlights?
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Old 02-16-2005, 10:37 AM   #10
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WHy not switch brands? If you keep changing with Sylvania, maybe they are the issue. I have PIAAs in both my vehicles and they usually last about 2 years.
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:49 AM   #11
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the electric starter motor's coils represent a very heavy inductive load to the electrical system.

such a load will cause a voltage spike when current is interrupted.

in other words, you get a very brief transient of >14v when you disconnect the starter. this can cause all sorts of havoc with tempermental loads, such as brighter than normal (read: hotter running) filament light bulbs, HID transformers and ballasts, etc etc.

do what oneobs said: remove all other electrical loads while cranking. not only does this improve current reserves for the starting tasks, but it also prevents damage due to "flyback" voltage spikes.

ken
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Old 02-24-2005, 02:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank3
Here's where you disable the main DRL switch/plug behind the glovebox. With finesse, some have managed to unplug it without taking the glovebox out (smaller hands help). If you're one that gets easily frustrated, I would suggest taking some extra time and taking out the screws to the glovebox

i cant find it under my glove box. is it a better view when the glove box is taken out? i cant even find the 2 big relay, the blue and black. is there a further out pix so i can see where the exact location is?
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Old 02-24-2005, 03:59 PM   #13
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The picture is taken with the glove box removed. That black thing on the right is the door jamb.
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Old 02-24-2005, 05:51 PM   #14
mnrstrider
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Hmmm I'm wondering are you putting finger prints all over your bulbs when you install them, you need to make abs. sure that you don't touch the bulbs are they will burn out early, something to do with the oil on your fingers, and if you do touch them you are suppose to clean them, maybe glass cleaner would work, I just never touch mine.
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:13 PM   #15
elhalisf
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Was wearing some latex gloves when did it, right out of the box so no oil film there. I try my best not to touch the bulbs but usually if I did they only last a few days. That doesnt explain the parking bulb going out too though since you can touch that all you want.
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Old 02-26-2005, 07:04 PM   #16
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I was gonna suggest you were touching the bulbs, but obviously that's not it. Either way, latex or not, hold the bulb by the base at all times. My fogs and sylvania's have been going strong for months now, cranking with them on, stalling a few times, etc. and I installed them without gloves or anything. Just dont touch the bulb at all.

Mabye an UD pulley would help? (unfortunately, this will make your lights dim at idle, which is also bad for them). (yes, I have one).
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Old 02-27-2005, 11:08 AM   #17
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My Sylvania Silverstars last only 4-6 months. It's really starting to piss me off they only last that long. I may upgrade to Osram Silverstars and give those a try. For my foglights, I'll consider anything BUT Silverstars.
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Old 02-27-2005, 03:17 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrx2k4blue
My Sylvania Silverstars last only 4-6 months. It's really starting to piss me off they only last that long. I may upgrade to Osram Silverstars and give those a try. For my foglights, I'll consider anything BUT Silverstars.
does the WRX still use H3 bulbs for the fogs? If so, go down to your local carquest, and get the 100w H3 bulbs they have. Good upgrade, i've got them.
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Old 02-27-2005, 03:58 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank3
Here's where you disable the main DRL switch/plug behind the glovebox. With finesse, some have managed to unplug it without taking the glovebox out (smaller hands help). If you're one that gets easily frustrated, I would suggest taking some extra time and taking out the screws to the glovebox

im done with this modd and im happy with it.....
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Old 02-27-2005, 04:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooocool49723
does the WRX still use H3 bulbs for the fogs? If so, go down to your local carquest, and get the 100w H3 bulbs they have. Good upgrade, i've got them.
yup they still use H3 bulbs and i got the 100w piaa's and they work great compare to the stock bulbs
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Old 07-10-2005, 01:49 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info on disabling the DRLs! I don't get why Subaru provides DRLs given how the headlights work ... and it bugs me that using the parking brake disables the DRLs, I know why, it still bugs me. Am likely going to get this mod done, too, although while I've replaced my both front marker lights once, and my cruise control swich light, all my other original OEM bulbs continue to work fine on my '03 after almost 3 years and 100,000 miles. Sounds like Silverstars don't last, will consider PIAAs if my stock headlight bulbs blow (they might not, y'know <G>).


Cheers,

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Old 07-13-2005, 05:51 AM   #22
colerex
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Subaru Stars 100w bulbs

hey guys got Q? piaa headlights 100w and fog lights 100w will they burn wires or not and if any of you know how to change fog lights on 2004 wrx can you post it . thanx . i have silverstars in my headlights right now but not really putting out alot of light need more , no hid's for now may be later but let me know about those 100w bulbs if any of you used them.
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Old 07-13-2005, 06:18 AM   #23
markadopolus
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Let me just say....Sylvania siverstars SUCK!

I had 2 silverstars burn out on me Even with my DRL disabled. My friends wrx burnt one out too. Also, my friend burnt 2 on his volvo, and my other friend burnt one on his mazda. Sylvania said its a "performance" bulb so the life expectancy is less than a regular bulb. Yeah, like a 2 MONTH lifespan!

I just ordered some Narva rangepower +50 from Daniel Stern. they are cheaper than sylvania silverstars and supposedly, they are slightly better than the orsam silverstars. We'll see....

Quote:
Originally Posted by colerex
hey guys got Q? piaa headlights 100w and fog lights 100w will they burn wires or not and if any of you know how to change fog lights on 2004 wrx can you post it . thanx . i have silverstars in my headlights right now but not really putting out alot of light need more , no hid's for now may be later but let me know about those 100w bulbs if any of you used them.
That is what I'm concerned with. My friends brother had 100w low beams in his denali, and I helped him change them when they burnt out (with new 100w bulbs), and his harness was getting FRIED!
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Old 07-13-2005, 10:18 AM   #24
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You don't say? My fiance and I found out the hard way that Sylvania Silverstars have little to no life expectancy. At first, it would last anywhere from 4-6 months but my fiance is beginning to think it's more like 3 months. She's probably right.

I may have to take it up one level and get Osram Silverstars and see how those work out

In regards to changing out foglights, IMO it's a PITA just because you need to get under the car, pull away the fender well cover and work with little room. Maybe someone has an easier way to do this? I have the foglight covers now and I'm gonna see how long the Osram Silverstars workout for me this coming winter. Driving without foglights in the summer/fall shouldn't be a problem. It's nice having foglights in the winter to spot them pesky pot holes
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Old 07-14-2005, 11:04 PM   #25
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Me too. hate DRLs but love the fogs. And im also curios about unplugging effecting anything else.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tompetey
that's awesome, I hate my DRLs! I am assuming this is a stupid question but, will I disable or hurt anything else by unplugging that clip?
Even better, is there a way to turn on the fogs without having to turn on the headlights?
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