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Old 03-07-2005, 03:04 PM   #1
Prylex3
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Default Has anyone replaced the particle board floor in the trunk?

I'm putting a sub back there soon and I want to replace my floor panel that is falling apart. It has gone through hell... warped here and there and just not looking all that great.

What should I use to replace it? I have some automotive carpet sititng around so I was thinking of just getting a new board, carpeting it, and using velcro for the subwoofer box. Any suggestions would be great
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Old 03-07-2005, 03:36 PM   #2
khail19
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You can get 1/4 inch pressboard at a hardware store, or if you want something sturdier go with MDF or plywood. I would use something fairly strong if you will be attaching your sub box to it.
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Old 03-07-2005, 03:38 PM   #3
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.25 inch baltic birch plywood works great.
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Old 03-07-2005, 03:51 PM   #4
OneManArmy
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just get some thick plywood. quarter or a bit thicker. I like it a bit thicker.

In my old car I made one out of quarter inch plastic from Tap. Cost me a little bit more but I didn't have to worry about moisture and I didn't have to worry about cracks and splinters. I cut it with a jig. Dremel and sander. Even cut a handle into it. Don't think it cost me more than $20.

I'll probably be doing it to mine soon if I can't find a stock one to replace it with for cheap...mine creased.
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:03 PM   #5
Prylex3
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I was thinking MDF but it is spendy... although the last time I was at Home Depot the woman messed up on the pricing and I got a piece roughly 5'x8' for 8 bucks.

Thanks for the ideas, now I'll have something to do over spring break yaay
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:08 PM   #6
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Dont use MDF for this. It is to heavy and will sag over time. Stick with a plywood of some sort.
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanH
.25 inch baltic birch plywood works great.
Why spend the extra cash for Baltic Birch plywood if it won't be seen? If you're going to wrap it with carpet, I'd buy the cheapest plywood you can find! If it has a few voids or knots or whatever, it won't matter. If you're going to rest a heavy sub box on the ply, I'd probably suggest 1/2-inch thick wood...
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Old 03-07-2005, 07:03 PM   #8
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Because even in the .25 inch its still multi-layered more than two veneers around a crap core and, therefore, stronger. The stuff I use has 5 layers to it...but I think it might have been advertised as 3/8. I dont really remember.

But I also have a bunch of this stuff lying around from my other projects.
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Old 03-07-2005, 09:45 PM   #9
MysteriousXTC
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i used clear Twin Wall and mounted my amp in the spare tire well and then hooked up some strobes underneath the twin wall... looks pretty sweet at night but its kinda costly, so I would then second the ply wood...
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Old 03-08-2005, 08:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanH
Because even in the .25 inch its still multi-layered more than two veneers around a crap core and, therefore, stronger. The stuff I use has 5 layers to it...but I think it might have been advertised as 3/8. I dont really remember.

But I also have a bunch of this stuff lying around from my other projects.
I can vouch for Bryan. A buddy of mine has made several covers for his antique cars from that stuff. It's stiff, durable and light.
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:16 PM   #11
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plexiglass all the way
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Old 03-10-2005, 10:33 AM   #12
Pallendo
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Another thing that might be nearly as strong as the Baltic Birch, but not as light, and a bit cheaper is Oriented Strand board. Should be available in 3/8" or 1/2". Not quite as pricey as some of the other suggestions. It's better at screw-holding than MDF, but way below Baltic Birch. But if all you are doing is glueing carpet on it for a trunk floor, it's not a bad solution.

Here's an Oriented Strand Board guide.

-Peter
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Old 03-10-2005, 10:51 AM   #13
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The reason I was never a fan of OSB in a car installations was just that it cuts "messy". Sometimes the edge you get with cutting it can be very ragged and if you are trying to make a nice board for your trunk starting out with the cleanest cut possible before upholstering is a good thing. But maybe I was using the wrong blade for it. And I guess with the bonding process required to make the board itself that would give it great resistance to moisture but I wonder if it would hold up against sag as well as baltic birch....
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Old 03-10-2005, 12:04 PM   #14
Pallendo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanH
The reason I was never a fan of OSB in a car installations was just that it cuts "messy". Sometimes the edge you get with cutting it can be very ragged and if you are trying to make a nice board for your trunk starting out with the cleanest cut possible before upholstering is a good thing. But maybe I was using the wrong blade for it. And I guess with the bonding process required to make the board itself that would give it great resistance to moisture but I wonder if it would hold up against sag as well as baltic birch....
It is a bit more difficult to get a good cut out of it, but the trick that I have heard is to use something with a very high blade speed. A larger circular saw will have a higher speed out at the rim (Usually). I have a house being built right now, and they are using OSB for the exterior sheathing on the walls. The Sub-floor aslo looks like OSB, so I would think that they aren't worried too much about it sagging. Remember, this aint your father's Waferboard that would sag in a season or 2. It should be better than MDF, but I wouldn't use it for Sub-Boxes as it still isn't guarenteed void free.

With OSB, I usually use a 10" circular saw with high rim speed and then cut it big and belt-sander it down to shape. It's a bit more work, but cheaper. When I'm working on this stuff for pleasure on the weekends, my time is free.

-Peter
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Old 03-10-2005, 12:22 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanH
Dont use MDF for this. It is to heavy and will sag over time. Stick with a plywood of some sort.
not to mention you'd have to seal it, water and mdf is bad news. OSB is overkill tho, just use plywood as stated above.
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