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Old 03-29-2005, 01:52 AM   #1
lj17
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Default Got a sloppy shifter? Lots of freeplay? This may interest you...

EDIT 1-28-2012: I just added all of the pictures back into this thread. I had traded in my Legacy years ago, and haven't been on this forum for about 3 or 4 years. And it has been almost 7 years since I originally posted this. But I have just gotten a request to add the pictures again, and since I still have them all, I took the time to upload them all again. The original pics got deleted from the photo hosting site I was using. I have had several requests over the years to update the pics, but I would never get the messages because this forum is tied to an old email account that I seldom check. But anyway, I decided to take the time and upload them because I hope it might help someone out. I have certainly benefited from the help of others in online forums many, many times, so if I can contribute something myself, hopefully it will be appreciated. Since it has been so long, I had to try to remember a bit of this project, so if anyone has any questions, I may not remember all the details right away. And I may not get around to responding right away either

SORRY 56K!

If this would be better in the transmission forum, please move it. I chose to put it here because this was done on my 95 Legacy, and I know other Legacy owners are interested in this. Also, I'm not sure how much Subaru changed the shifter assembly from model to model, so some of this info may not apply to the other models, or even other Legacy models.

A little background info...

My car's shifter was very sloppy compared to the other 5 speeds I had driven before, and after researching this, I found that quite a few other Legacy owners complained about this also. Mine was to the point where whenever it was in gear, you could move the lever from side to side 2-3 inches, as if you were in neutral. It would do this in every gear, even 5th and reverse, although they didn't seem to be quite as bad.

After checking things out underneath the car, I saw that my spring had completely rusted through and both halves were just hanging there. I got a new one from the dealer (33022GA081 - $1.40) and after putting it on it helped the freeplay considerably. It wasn't nearly as hard to go from 2nd to 3rd and 4th to 5th as it had been before. The only times it would really get stuck is when I wouldn't shift quickly like I normally do. Then I would have trouble, especially going from 2nd to 3rd. But as long as my shifts were fast and crisp, it was fine. But there was still freeplay from left to right when in gear and a general overall sloppy feel.

So I inspected further and found that 2 of the 4 bushings underneath the car were extremely worn out and causing most of the slop. There are also 2 bushings inside the car, but mine were still like new. After more inspection, I decided to get all new bushings for underneath the car, as well as the parts the bushings went into, and of course new bolts and nuts, etc.. The rest of the shifter-related parts, which had 10 years of exposure to the elements and a nice coating of rust, I planned to clean up and repaint.

So lets get to it. Here is the list of parts that I purchased over the parts counter at the dealership. I didn't know any of the part numbers, and at the time wasn't aware that I could order everthing online cheaper, like on 1stsubaruparts.com. It would have been very nice if I did, especially since the 'boss' took about 3 months to get here, since the dealer had to order one from Japan, and then the jackasses screwed up and got the wrong thing, so I had to wait longer

I also included the prices my dealer charged me, just for comparison if anyone orders this stuff online.

35032AA040 Boss - $31.22
633046020 Spring Pin - $2.38
35052AA031 Bolt - $1.98
35035KA030 Boss bushing - $12.42 (2 needed)
023508000 Self locking nut - $3.77 (2 needed)
35047AA030 Joint - $13.38
01670855D Bolt - $1.10
633042040 Spacer - $7.88
35035AA030 Joint bushing - $4.38 (2 needed)
Total - $99.08

Now for some pics so you can see how the hell all this stuff fits together.

This first one is of all the pieces laid out, old and new. The part that is circled in red is what they call the 'boss'. This is what slides over the shaft that goes into the transmission. It is held with the spring pin. Next you see the bolt that goes through the boss and connects it to the joint (Note: I can't remember which part number corresponds to which bolt). On the bolt is what remains of the boss bushings (arrow). There was actually only one left and it was basically just a plastic washer; it was just hanging loose on the bolt and not doing anything. That is what was causing all the slop. Its amazing it was worn out this much, especially since my car only had 76K on it when I replaced all this.

Moving on, inside the blue circle is the joint, and close to it you see the bolt, spacer, bushings and nut that go through the joint and connect it to the shift rod. These bushings are the same as the ones up inside the car. Mine acutally weren't worn much at all. They were just brittle from age and lack of grease. But I replaced them anyway since I got all new parts for underneath the car. Now compare the old parts to the new, Big difference huh? And you can see the difference in the bushings- The joint (and shift rod) bushings are beefier and have a larger inside diameter. The boss bushings, which were worn out so badly, are smaller and a lot more expensive. Go figure

In the yellow circle is the bolt, nut, spacer and bushings that connect the shift lever to the shift rod inside the car. None of these parts are new- but they were all like new so I just re-used them. Notice the bushings are the same as the joint bushings. And all 4 are used in the shift rod, 2 in each end.



Another shot, with the new parts in front. Also a better view of the boss bushings and the difference from the joint bushings.



A close up of the boss and the pitiful bushing.



A close up of the joints.



Close up of the bolt, nut, spacer and bushings for the shifter that were inside the car. You can see why I didn't need new ones. They are in near perfect condition.



Another shot of the bosses.



More...

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Last edited by lj17; 10-19-2013 at 12:02 PM. Reason: Corrected spelling mistakes.
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:56 AM   #2
lj17
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Close up comparison of the bushings used in the shift rod. New ones where it bolts to the joint, and old ones where it bolts to the shifter. Again, the bushings are the same, and notice how nice the shifter side parts still are.



Side by side comparison of the the assembled bosses and joints. Um, I'll take the left one



The new boss and joint in the vise. Everthing is so tight and snug that the boss is actually being suspended by the tightness of the bushings.



The old one sags a little bit



Using a screwdriver to demonstrate the side-to-side freeplay.



You shouldn't be able to turn it at all. The screwdriver should be vertical. Should be.



The new parts after being cleaned up and painted with 4 coats of gloss black. I didn't want them rusting up like the old ones and didn't trust the cheap primer that was on them.


Last edited by lj17; 01-28-2012 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:57 AM   #3
lj17
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The rest of the shifter-related parts, after being sandblasted, re-primed, and re-painted with 4 coats of gloss black. Lets see you rust now dammit!



Everything bolted together with the shift rod ready to put back in the car. The new bushing are wearing a nice coat of white lithium grease, unlike the old ones.



There you have it. If you have any questions please post them and I'll try my best to answer them. Please don't PM me, because if questions are posted, then everyone can see them. If anyone replaces these parts on their car and has questions, or finds that I messed up some part numbers, please let me know.

Last edited by lj17; 01-28-2012 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 02:06 AM   #4
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Nice write-up! Thanks.

do you have any under car instal pics? How difficult is the access? I unknowingly snipped that little spring you first mentioned. It is deleted from the WRX shifter linkage, but the WRX linkage "looks" the same, so I assumed...

Anyways, I know everything is tight down there, especially when you don't have access to a lift. I want this done for sure.

thanks

Jared
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Old 03-29-2005, 02:31 AM   #5
lj17
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While I had everything out, and was waiting for the boss to come from Japan, I decided to shorten up my shift lever. I did not do this to try to achieve a 'short throw' shifter. I did this only to lower the position of the shift knob so it fit my hand and arm position better.

Here it is welded back together with the piece I cut out, after some grinding, filing, and sanding. I cut out about 2 1/4" of the shift lever.



Painted...



And installed.



With everything back on. It is in a much more comfortable position and is a lot nicer shifting. It is actually a little lower than it looks- I should have gotten a better angle on it.


Last edited by lj17; 01-28-2012 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 03-29-2005, 12:53 PM   #6
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hmmm, anyone know if the shift linkage is the same for a 99 LEgacy? cause I do have a lot of slop in my shifter....
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:12 PM   #7
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Great write up, great pics, and great fabrication!

Is there any reason why you didn't consider using poly bushings for the shifter? I've found in previous expierence that these alone are better than short throw shifters. And go a long way towards improving shifter feel.
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:46 PM   #8
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Great write-up lj, you got it covered front to back. The swap I did this on was a 94 BF and all the parts appear identical to yours although I didnt replace any of the metall bits as they were in pretty good shape. You really had some rampant rust there.

ss

edit: and from your pics it looks like the old bushings were blue too. I guess the grease coating them made what little was left of the rear bushings look black.
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Old 03-29-2005, 01:50 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratt_finkel
Is there any reason why you didn't consider using poly bushings for the shifter? I've found in previous expierence that these alone are better than short throw shifters. And go a long way towards improving shifter feel.
If you knew where to buy them I would use them. TiC is working on a set of harder linkage bushings for the 5-speeds, but theyre not available yet.

ss
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Old 03-29-2005, 02:01 PM   #10
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We are all very grateful that you have this much free time.

Seriously, excellent write-up and pics!

--Dan
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FastWRX.com
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:19 PM   #11
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I'd do this with my wife's car--

--if it weren't an automatic.


Great job!!!
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Old 03-29-2005, 03:41 PM   #12
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i can't find any of this parts in 1stsubaruparts.com?
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Old 03-29-2005, 04:46 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subysouth
If you knew where to buy them I would use them. TiC is working on a set of harder linkage bushings for the 5-speeds, but theyre not available yet.

ss
I haven't looked, but have you tired Energy Suspension, or Prothane?
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Old 03-29-2005, 05:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratt_finkel
I haven't looked, but have you tired Energy Suspension, or Prothane?
Energy lists a kit of shifter bushings for the WRX but if the thread in the susension forum is to be believed I think its just the stay bushing like KB makes.

Prothane lists no Subaru parts.

ss
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Old 03-29-2005, 07:19 PM   #15
lj17
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gtwagon941, I knew someone was going to ask for under-car pics. But, unfortunately I don't have any. Thinking back, I'm not really sure why I didn't take any either. I guess I was just anxious to get everything back in after I re-assembled it. But honestly, I don't know that they whould help you much. I think any areas in question can be cleared by looking at the pics I did take. Like the one of everything bolted together to the shift rod and the one taken inside the car (2nd to last). As far as access, I don't have a lift, so my car was on jackstands. I had them set about a high as they would go. It actually wasn't that bad (but I am pretty thin). It was just a pain getting up and down and on and off the creeper. And the nice thing about having the car not far off the ground was that I could get my shoulder up against the bottom of the car for extra strength and leverage when removing the boss. After I drove the pin out, it still wouldn't come off. It was stuck on the trans. shaft and I had to heat it up nice and hot, and then use some channellocks to loosen it. You can see the teeth marks on the boss in the pics.

I removed the heat shield, and unbolted the driveshaft and slid it off to the side, but that was it. I didn't even remove the exhaust (all the bolts are super rusty ). It was a little tricky to fish the heatshield out, but after that the diveshaft was real easy to disconnect and get out of the way. Actaully, I don't know if you would really need to slide the driveshaft out if your only replacing the bushings. I think the reason I ended up doing it was to gain better access to the small metal brackets I removed and re-painted. As for the spring, just go to the dealer and get another one. There cheap. I actually got 2 just so I would have an extra.

spdracr00, I would think it would be the same. If not, it wouldn't differ by that much. The only difference I can forsee is that you might not have a spring.

ratt_finkel, like subysouth said, they were not available. It was only yesterday that I found out about the replacements for the 6 speeds. The only bushings that I knew of at the time were the kartboy ones. But honestly, I don't know if harder bushings would help that much (for feel anyway). I think the oem ones are fine, they just wear out too fast. You can see in the pics how tight and snug everything is with the new oem bushings. The oems are hard enough I think. The whole assembly with the new bushings was very solid. Its not like it was soft and squishy or anything. I think the only fault of the oems is the longevity. And I think one of the main reasons for that is the lack of a complete coating of grease. With the exposure the ones underneath the car get, they just dry out and get brittle. Thats why mine just pretty much fell apart. They had 10 years of being outside in a northern climate. With brand new bushings slathered in grease, I suspect that mine will last for quite some time. But time will tell.

subysouth, yes the old ones were blue just like the new ones. Believe me there wasn't any grease left on them. You are probably just seeing rust. That and the lighting the the pics isn't the greatest.

Last edited by lj17; 03-30-2005 at 09:49 AM.
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Old 07-05-2005, 10:06 PM   #16
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Default Excellent post...

I have been suffering from a crappy shifter for two years. I got under the car last week, and found that the frontmost bushing is gone, much like yours.

I think I am going to take my shifter apart soon and see what else needs to be replaced. I don't think I will do as extensive a job as you did, but who knows? Maybe I will take some pics under the car to post for others...

Thanks for the excellent write-up

Matt
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:13 AM   #17
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Very nice pics and write-up!!

I've dealt with with shifter linkage slop on my legacy. I have however converted it to the new style linkage. Kartboy front bushings help imensely, and can be used on the old style linkage. The rear Kartboy bushing does help, but not as much.

I also replaced the stock blue bushings with nylon bushings to eliminate the mush that's in there from the nylon compressing.

Here's the stock joint
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co.../images/joint/

Some bushing options
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...images/joint2/

My custom bushings
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...s/jointcustom/

Josh
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:44 AM   #18
BigMattyD
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Josh,

It looks like the connection between the shift rod and the transmission shaft on your car is a different design than his. When I take my car apart, I'll have to see which type of linkage my car has. It looks like his is easier to repair and customize, because your attachment seems to be a one-piece design that you had to take apart and replace with threaded bolts.

matt
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:31 PM   #19
Legacy777
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Matt,

You're correct. His design is the older setup, and easier to modify. I converted to the newer setup because I wanted to run the sti short shifter, plus I was doing an AWD & 5spd conversion. I didn't like the sti SS, I then tried the kartboy, and still didn't like that, so I went back to the stock wrx shifter setup.

More then likely you have the older setup.
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Old 07-06-2005, 09:35 PM   #20
BigMattyD
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Here is the question of the day:


How the heck do you get the "spring pin" out so you can remove the shifter linkage from the transmission? Do you just bang on it? drill it out? Special tool?

I got my shifter removed, but I can't get this last part out, and I need to to replace that bushing. On my car, the bushing is part of the end piece, like Josh's.

Help please.. tried penetrating oil, hammer and socket extension bar, screwdriver, heat, etc...

Matt
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Old 07-07-2005, 10:14 AM   #21
Legacy777
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It's a double spring pin. You need to get the small one out first, and then the larger one.

If you look in my pictures, I actually made tools out of round bar to hold the spring pin and knock it back in. You should be able to use a normal set of punches to get the inner one out. You'll have to catch its edge inside the larger one.

If you still have questions, let me know.
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Old 07-07-2005, 03:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy777
Very nice pics and write-up!!

I've dealt with with shifter linkage slop on my legacy. I have however converted it to the new style linkage. Kartboy front bushings help imensely, and can be used on the old style linkage. The rear Kartboy bushing does help, but not as much.

I also replaced the stock blue bushings with nylon bushings to eliminate the mush that's in there from the nylon compressing.

Here's the stock joint
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co.../images/joint/

Some bushing options
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...images/joint2/

My custom bushings
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...s/jointcustom/

Josh
Josh, thats quite a selection of bushings you sourced, nice work.

ss
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Old 07-07-2005, 04:29 PM   #23
BigMattyD
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Thanks. I'm going out to get a set of pin punches now....

Matt
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Old 07-07-2005, 05:03 PM   #24
Legacy777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subysouth
Josh, thats quite a selection of bushings you sourced, nice work.

ss
Thanks. There's actually a more detailed thread in the transmission forum. If the nylon bushings wear too quickly, I'll probably go with the bronze bushings.

I wish I could find a bolt or pin with a threaded end with tighter tolerances to fit in the bushing and not add to the extra slop.

edit: Here's my write-up
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...t=shifter+slop

More info with part #'s (it gets going on page 3)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1&page=3&pp=30
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Old 07-07-2005, 05:26 PM   #25
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Wow, where did all these responses come from? I posted this a couple of months ago. As far as the spring pin, Legacy777 said pretty much exactly what I would have said. Except I used a regular punch to punch in back in. But here is a little trick: before you put the boss back in, start the spring pin in it by pressing it in a vice. You can somewhat see this in my pic of the fully assembled shift linkage. Then, get some rubber tubing that will just slip over the end of the punch you are going to use. Slide the tubing over the end of the punch and leave about 3/4" of tubing sticking past the punch. Then you can put the spring pin in the 3/4" of tubing to hold it. I had to use a zip tie to squeeze the tubing around the spring pin to hold it tighter, on account of my punch being slightly larger than the pin. I know pics would help a lot, but just post any more questions you have.
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