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Old 04-11-2005, 01:41 PM   #1
turbocolin
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Default how hard is it to replace rear main seal

i have a oil leak and it is getting bad wondering is=f anyone else has done this and the difficulty of it i am a pretty good do it myselfer as i have done multiple swaps head gaskets timing belts and tranny swaps if anyone could help in the procedure o the whole repair i would appreciate it
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Old 04-11-2005, 04:39 PM   #2
soccer_freak_m@hotma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbocolin
i have a oil leak and it is getting bad wondering is=f anyone else has done this and the difficulty of it i am a pretty good do it myselfer as i have done multiple swaps head gaskets timing belts and tranny swaps if anyone could help in the procedure o the whole repair i would appreciate it
I think the rear main seal on your car is the same as mine. It's right behind the flywheel. Pretty much rip off the tranny, take out the flywheel, use a pair of pliers to take out the old seal, place the new seal on top of the "hole" (bad jokes running through head), replace the flywheel (once the flywheel is torqued it presses the seal into place), replace tranny, and done.
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:18 PM   #3
Matt Monson
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It is easier to pull the engine than the tranny on these cars. I would do it that way...

And if you have a plastic oil separator plate, replace it at the same time...
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Old 04-11-2005, 06:34 PM   #4
soccer_freak_m@hotma
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Monson
It is easier to pull the engine than the tranny on these cars. I would do it that way...

And if you have a plastic oil separator plate, replace it at the same time...
not to contradict you... but I found it easier to pull the tranny on my 99. I also found it's easier to pull the tranny if the block and tranny have never been apart.

To be honest it's preference and availability of tools/left/etc...

6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.
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Old 04-11-2005, 11:55 PM   #5
turbocolin
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what is the plastic oil separator plate
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:43 AM   #6
Tim Sanderson
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There's a plate on the back of the block. I believe it was the phase 1's that had a plastic one and the phase 2's have a metal one. Sometimes the plastic ones like to leak from the gasket.

Personally I would not use a pliers. I would suggest a seal puller.
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:24 AM   #7
Pakin
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I think there were some Phase 1's that had a aluminum plate, probably manufacturered 98 and later. My MY98 is leaking and needs a reseal with T3, and I checked underneath and it was a metal one. The car has only gone to a dealer once in its whole life and that was like at 15K miles, I'm at 67K now.

-paK +1
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:24 AM   #8
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Oops, double post.

-paK -1
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:47 PM   #9
Matt Monson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer_freak_m@hotma
not to contradict you... but I found it easier to pull the tranny on my 99. I also found it's easier to pull the tranny if the block and tranny have never been apart.

To be honest it's preference and availability of tools/left/etc...

6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.
I don't care if you contradict me. It is truly personal preference, but for the standard home mechanic without access to a lift, doing all that work under that car just plain sucks. If you pull the motor, you can get to everything quite easily. Personally, I even pull my engine for clutch and flywheel...
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Old 04-12-2005, 01:00 PM   #10
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I have to agree with Matt on this one. Pulling the engine is easier if you don't have a lift. I know Tim Sanderson and Section 8 (Greg) tried to pull Greg's tranny without a lift and they concluded that pulling the engine is easier. Also, we (Tim and I) did this when replacing my clutch and later he did the same when replacing his clutch. It has to do with the engine leaning forward on its mounts after you drop the tranny and it makes it very hard (unless you have a lift or 3 people) to line them back up. But everyone has their own methods, I guess.

Mick
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Old 05-03-2005, 09:48 PM   #11
mgray9
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MY03 RS with 36,000 miles just blew the rear main seal. I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow. My only concern is that it is modded. Any issues experienced with this???

As per Subaru.com:

Quote:
Powertrain Limited Warranty
Powertrain coverage for all models is five years or 60,000 miles, whichever comes first. It covers the major powertrain components listed below:*

Engine block and all internal parts
Cylinder heads and valve trains
Oil pump, oil pan
Timing belts or gears and covers
Water pump
Flywheel
Intake manifold
Oil seals and gaskets
Torque converter
Electronic transmission control unit
Transaxle seals and gaskets
Axle shafts and constant velocity joints (except boots)**
Propeller shaft

*See your Subaru Dealer for complete details.

**Axle shaft and/or CVJ damage due to broken, torn, split or damaged boots, allowing the intrusion of road abrasive material, is not coverable under warranty.
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Old 05-03-2005, 10:48 PM   #12
Tim Sanderson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soccer_freak_m@hotma
I think the rear main seal on your car is the same as mine. It's right behind the flywheel. Pretty much rip off the tranny, take out the flywheel, use a pair of pliers to take out the old seal, place the new seal on top of the "hole" (bad jokes running through head), replace the flywheel (once the flywheel is torqued it presses the seal into place), replace tranny, and done.
This technique does not fully install the seal. It may very well shorten the life of the seal beacuse it will be rubbing on the flywheel.

I like your technique(same thing I do) But the seal needs to be tapped in a little further so remove the flywheel once again(don't torque them yet), and do that with the seal. Now put the flywheel on and torque them down.

Got a long piece of flat metal laying around? Use the pressure plate holes as a template and make yourself a flywheel holder while you're torqueing down the flywheel bolts.
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Old 05-03-2005, 11:29 PM   #13
cjfike
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I used the "flywheel press" method as Tim suggested. Once you take the fly wheel back off it is pretty obvious that it has to go in a little bit. I just used a 1/4" dowel and a rubber mallet.

Tim and Matt are among the very few I seek advice from.
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Old 05-04-2005, 01:21 AM   #14
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A 4" PVC coupler works pretty good when tapping in the last few mm.


Jay Storm
...also agrees on pulling motor rather than trans.
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Old 05-04-2005, 08:01 AM   #15
mgray9
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Thanks for your input guys!

Since my mechanical experience and tools are very much limited, I am having the car towed to the local dealer. I spoke with them this morning and they told me it was under warranty. I just do not want to get my "balls busted" over the bolt on mods.

I post an update on the other thread I started.
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