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Old 03-15-2012, 03:36 PM   #3451
Aquamist
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Yes, the 806-239B FAv is a replacement for the HSV. Do write it off until you have tested the system for leaks. We were using push-fit fitting those days, they tend to leak after a while (1-2years) with methanol/water mix.
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:29 AM   #3452
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I am so close to finishing my HFS-6 install and am hoping to tune tomorrow in time for a track day.

I've got everything setup and have been through the startup tests. When I first turned the key to position #2 I was surprised to find the pump turn on. I figured it was supposed to only turn on after the car was under significant load. I studied some more and tried some more tests and it turns out I wasn't on drugs. The pump isn't supposed to stay on all the time. Right?

All the wires seem fine. My injector signal wire functions correctly and the led in the controller speeds up with increasing RPM. With the black lead of a multimeter on ground and the red lead on the ecu signal wire it reads a +13.9V. It's pulsating, right? I can't tell with the multimeter, it's too fast for the tester to tell.

It's the threshold light that kicks on after 8-10 seconds and signals the pump. I turned the threshold down to 12%, no change. The pump is still headstrong. Any clue where to start. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

P.S. if I have one port on a FMIC, where should I put the jet? Right after the inter cooler core, or just before the throttle body? I want to add direct port eventually and want to use this first jet as a fifth cooling jet once all five are ready.
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:46 AM   #3453
shaman
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Pump is supposed to be running, unless you turn the kit off is my understanding. Pump is designed to take it.

Last edited by shaman; 03-16-2012 at 03:52 AM.
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Old 03-16-2012, 05:55 AM   #3454
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Pearl04,

Replied to your pm, check the red wire to the ECU. The signal should be a steady 12V not pulsed.

Reconnect the red wire of the HFS-6 to a known 12V supply and start from there.
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Old 03-17-2012, 11:12 PM   #3455
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Richard, I was reading some water meth pdfs yesterday, and noticed that the perrin PWI-1 mentioned that toluene was okay to run in the kit. Is this correct? I've never seen it mentioned before anywhere.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:17 AM   #3456
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absolutely NOT ok!!!

Please let me have the link.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:13 AM   #3457
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http://www.perrinperformance.com/sha.../asmeng900.pdf

What do I inject?
A mixture of water and methanol is recommended. Only use distilled water, never use tap water. Tap water and other bottled water have
deposits in it that can build up on pistons and spark plugs. As for Methanol, make sure this is filtered racing type methanol. Methanol is a
very lethal chemical and extreme care must be taken when dealing with this. See MSDS sheet for handling. Methanol is the chemical of
choice as it has an octane rating of 113, as well as its cooling properties are very high, which is why it works very well to control
detonation, There are other chemicals that can be used like Nitro methane (10% of mixture), Toluene (50%-100%) and Denatured
Alcohol (20-100%). All of these require different tuning methods compared to Methanol. We recommend using methanol in a 50/50
mixture. Using 2 similar sized containers (such a cleaned milk containers) you can mix them safely and easily into your 2 gallon or bigger
reservoir or tank.
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Old 03-18-2012, 09:55 AM   #3458
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I'd better tell them to alter it.

Rubber (edpm/nitrile) that is suitable for alcohol is not suitable for hydrocarbon. Vice versa for the other rubber (viton).

Perrin commissioned us to manufacture a water injection system for them but they provided their own instructions. Unless they have produced their own system with an alternative pump since.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:04 AM   #3459
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Default Gain Adjustment from gauge

Hey Im running less boost on a new tune, I am not familiar with aquamist systems. I have the hfs6 and want to run it on my new tune just for the extra power. Basically i need less spray to go in hand with less boost.
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Old 03-22-2012, 02:12 AM   #3460
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I'm having a few small problems with my HFS-5 Kit. I have been off the road for nearly a year and a half while finishing my latest build. I first started off with the settings from before, and the spray was coming on a little late, around 6000 rpm. I am making full boost around 4300-4500 and I was expecting it to come on by them. We began to make some adjustments to try to get it to start spraying earlier, and now I can only get the meter to show that it is spraying when I let off the gas. We can make a pull and see that it is not spraying by 6500, and let off, and when we let off, the meter shows a half spray for a second while the engine revs drop. Any suggestions?
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:33 PM   #3461
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I would give the system a real good spring clean first, backflush the filter, purge. prime and retest.

Last edited by Aquamist; 03-23-2012 at 04:52 AM.
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:23 PM   #3462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenHall View Post
Hey Im running less boost on a new tune, I am not familiar with aquamist systems. I have the hfs6 and want to run it on my new tune just for the extra power. Basically i need less spray to go in hand with less boost.
Hopefully Richard doesn't mind me chiming in on this

Aquamist's signal is a function of your either boost or fuel injector signal. In case of boost, you directly will spray less as boost goes down. In case of fuel injector, your fuel injector signal is a function of your engine load/rpm. Load is calculated in the ECU as a function of your MAF signal (amount of air going into the engine which directly correlates to your boost).

So to put it in simple words, you won't need to change anything and it will automatically spray less with less boost if setup properly.
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:39 AM   #3463
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Xtreme, I have replied to StephenHall's pm and made an indentical comment. Thanks for chiming in and helped. You have difinately have good knowledges of how the aquamist's IDC based system work.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:46 AM   #3464
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Thanks guys. The only issue is I'm running a speed density tune. Is that going to play a factor?
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:50 AM   #3465
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It seems like now I lose power with it unless I'm doing a highway pull.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:39 AM   #3466
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Was the system switched on during the tune?
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:00 PM   #3467
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No it was tuned without it so I didn't have to rely on it
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:34 PM   #3468
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenHall View Post
No it was tuned without it so I didn't have to rely on it
StephenHall,

What's your setup?

I would like to hear Richard's input on this, but I think you would actually lose power if you are not tuned with the WMI. As far as if it is "safe" to run it without tune (and by tune I mean leaning out the AFR, or increasing timing), I am not sure. I would think it would cause you to run too rich hence washing off cylinder wall lubrication and causing damage depending on how much it is spraying...

Richard what is your take on this? I am curious about this too

Last edited by Xtreme.; 03-26-2012 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:05 PM   #3469
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Im running a rotated 35r, only 16psi. 358whp and my new speed density tune does not have my hfs6 incorporated in. I was hoping I could use it without relying on it. Otherwise it's a waste of a very expensive system.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:36 PM   #3470
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenHall View Post
Im running a rotated 35r, only 16psi. 358whp and my new speed density tune does not have my hfs6 incorporated in. I was hoping I could use it without relying on it. Otherwise it's a waste of a very expensive system.
Can you post some datalogs with and without the water/methanol system active?
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:59 PM   #3471
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I don't have the software or tatrix cable otherwise I would. So is it common to run the system without it used in the tune? I'm a diesel guy so I'm used to tuning the system to work with what i have. Of course snowperformance isn't as advance of a system. But still, shouldn't I be able to reduce the gain and be able to use it?
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:18 PM   #3472
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I thought you had the AQUAMIST HFS6... I am not sure how SnowPerformance systems work. But in general, you would lose power if you inject water/alcohol without tune. And again, as far as how "safe" it is to do that, I am not sure. Let's hear Richard's input on that one.

Also on the "gain" comment, it won't just offset the spray. Gain adjustment is only for finetuning the system with larger injectors. If you reduce the gain, it will spray less but your proportionality to amount of fuel injected will not be setup correctly

Last edited by Xtreme.; 03-26-2012 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:46 PM   #3473
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I do have the hfs6 on my sti. I was just saying that on my diesel I had snow performance...but basically I can't use my hfs6 unles I want to rely on it and be tuned with it?
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Old 03-26-2012, 05:03 PM   #3474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StephenHall View Post
I do have the hfs6 on my sti. I was just saying that on my diesel I had snow performance...but basically I can't use my hfs6 unles I want to rely on it and be tuned with it?
With water/methanol injection, more power can be achieved through more aggressive timing, more boost, and leaner AFR tables. Now if you want to keep it on the safest side, my take is that you can leave timing tables and boost tables alone, but AFR need to be leaned out a bit compared to a tune with no water/methanol in the equation (~0.5 to 1.0 points leaner when spraying). Richard, what's your take?
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:17 PM   #3475
shaman
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The HFS-6 has too many failsafes to not tune for it. If your tuner knows what he/she is doing, the failsafes can be connected, and you can have more power, safer power, and the car will revert to a different map if the HFS-6 is turned off or senses a prolem. If you want to run it without taking advantages of those failsafes, I'll trade you for a kit that doesn't use them, and you can continue running water meth.
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