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Old 12-08-2012, 09:45 PM   #3651
climbhigh09
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MOAR FUN! (not really). I've got a 2011 WRX and none of the diagrams I've seen online really key up with what I'm seeing on the back of my ECU.

I have the 09' and '11 ECU wiring diagrams from Subaru Tech and the 2009 HFS-6 diagram; here is what I've got for the translations:

( legend: my wire #- 2009 pin function 2011 pin HFS-6 harnes color)

A6 MAP D20 *blue
B19 IGN-SW C30 red
B27 MAP SW C34 pink (not using this right now)
D11 FUEL INJ1 A10 green
D27 F/S SW A33 white-brown
black/yellow unused

I have hybrid boost control... I'd like to, when the system is off or fail safe triggered, drop to waist gate pressure. Does this achieve that? Or do I need to use the optional output from the FCM?

Also, as long as I do not wire in the pink- I won't throw CELs or drop into limp mode, right?
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:14 PM   #3652
Aquamist
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If anyone is interested, the new Aquamist online shop opens today. Please post a few comments here, I love to hear some feedback. Thanks everyone who posted.

Richard

screen shot:


Last edited by Aquamist; 01-06-2013 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:50 AM   #3653
djerickd
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Hey Richard, congrats on the site, does the checkout do the conversion to US dollars?
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:53 AM   #3654
Aquamist
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Thanks for the comment.

I am not sure the platform can do it, I will ask for sure. If all else fails, the paypal can do the conversion after transaction. I think?

Any suggestion of improving the site? We have added a bulk discount so customer can enjoy dealer pricing if they can group together for a purchase.

Last edited by Aquamist; 01-04-2013 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 01-04-2013, 01:19 PM   #3655
Aquamist
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Done it! Currency converter is now on site.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:01 PM   #3656
sabreofsd
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Looks great!
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:12 PM   #3657
Aquamist
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Thanks for the encouragement.

This is our first effort, lot more trick to learn and experiment. The basic frame work is stable so far. Because of the daily currency exchange rate fluctuations, we will make it a fixed rate for the time being to stop the price difference between the UK pounds and USD. So much to learn still.

One good point, if you are not ready to buy, do study each components in high-res images. Lots of items were never displayed or available previously.

Please continue to suggest improvements
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Old 01-05-2013, 08:59 AM   #3658
Aquamist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by climbhigh09 View Post
MOAR FUN! (not really). I've got a 2011 WRX and none of the diagrams I've seen online really key up with what I'm seeing on the back of my ECU.

I have the 09' and '11 ECU wiring diagrams from Subaru Tech and the 2009 HFS-6 diagram; here is what I've got for the translations:

( legend: my wire #- 2009 pin function 2011 pin HFS-6 harnes color)

A6 MAP D20 *blue
B19 IGN-SW C30 red
B27 MAP SW C34 pink (not using this right now)
D11 FUEL INJ1 A10 green
D27 F/S SW A33 white-brown
black/yellow unused

I have hybrid boost control... I'd like to, when the system is off or fail safe triggered, drop to waist gate pressure. Does this achieve that? Or do I need to use the optional output from the FCM?

Also, as long as I do not wire in the pink- I won't throw CELs or drop into limp mode, right?

If you do not wire in the pink or orange wire, the system will not throw a limp home. There is not point using the "map switch" as well as "main" failsafe relay. (with the DR = ON enabled)
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Old 01-08-2013, 03:59 PM   #3659
climbhigh09
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^After limping around a bit, I figured it out thanks.

I do, for unknown reasons, throw a CEL occasionally at start up for low wastegate signal. I typically turn off the car and clear the code and start over and everything is ok. I'm confident that all my connections are solid (soldered and heat shrink + strain relief). Any ideas?
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:07 PM   #3660
funk32
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I just emailed Richard about this same issue with a HSF-3 I installed on a 2006 STi, even with everything set to how it should be DR1 and all soldered in, I get the Cel and it wont go away.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:00 PM   #3661
climbhigh09
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What's odd about mine- it works fine for 39 star ups, and fails on the 40th.

Richard has already helped me with a few other things- I'm sure he will get you sorted out quickly. The man knows these systems VERY well, and knows how we DIYers break them too ;-)
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:07 PM   #3662
Aquamist
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Location: Sussex, England
Vehicle:
2004 Citroen Picasso
Silver

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During start up, the failsafe relay takes 5mS to complete the contacts. In winter, the voltage during cranking may be lower and slow down and trip the CEL.
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:41 AM   #3663
climbhigh09
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I considered that. It has happened with the car warm as well, but perhaps the battery core was cold still. Would pausing in the "on" position prior to start help, or will they shut back off while starting?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:38 PM   #3664
Aquamist
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I wonder if we can fit a high speed relay to bring the switch-over time down.
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:40 PM   #3665
funk32
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PSM

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The car I am working with,has a Cel on every start up. The car is also parked and was installed in a heated garage. Richard did you get my email? Or have you changed emails in the last year? Also the controller is slow to boot up, about 7secs compaired to the 1sec with HSF-6 on my car and the HSF-4 I installed on another car.
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:03 AM   #3666
Aquamist
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I didn't find your email. my email is richard at aquamist.co.uk. the boot up time is about 5-10sec. Depending on the interval since the last boot up. The booting up period is partly to prevent and accident that may result in spraying during cranking period. We cannot guarantee the battery doesn't fall below ~10V and affects the system in some strange way.

The boot up time prevents problem in that area. I can shorten this for you if you like if you send the controller to me.

You have multiple cars with aquamist?
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:16 PM   #3667
Subabu
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Hey guys and gals,

Can someone.... ahem... Richard, please explain how to "jump" PRK and TST to simulate 100% injection? This is for a HFS-6 Version 1

I have the jet tapped on the under side of my TMIC so I had to take the IC off to safely disconnect the jet (didn't want to strip it)

I took a picture of the board. Please see the dropbox link below.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/107121949/2...2017.12.00.png

The pins read from left to right as follows

MPS, IDC(jumped), PRK(jumped), CAL, TST, INJ(jumped)

Further to the right is DR ON(jumped) and DR OFF.

I have been doing some reading and it sounds like I have to "jump" PRK and TST then turn the ignition to ACC to simulate the 100% injection test. However I'm not sure if I remove all the other jumpers and just jump PRK and TST?

Can anyone help?! I have my IC sitting on a shelf and cant drive the car until I get this figured out. The reason I'm doing this is to make sure my jet isn't clogged and is getting a good spray pattern because my flow meter has been throwing the failsafe light.

I topped the tank up and disconnected the tank level sensor due to the failsafe light activating on either a low tank signal OR the IDC being out side the failsafe parameters (SC, WL, WH.)

If I get a good pattern then I know I just have to re-calibrate the SC, WL, WH on the guage.
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Old 01-17-2013, 08:10 AM   #3668
climbhigh09
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You don't jump "PRK" AND "TST"... you take the jumper off of PRK (or park... where you would park a test jumper) and move it to TEST. Leave the rest.

It doesn't sound as though you've taken the time to download the manual.

Moreover- you probably shouldn't just adjust your fail-safe willy nilly, your current tune presumably depends upon a certain flow occurring at a certain time. You need to verify that that is still happening (rather than just checking for for the presence of any flow).

Same argument applies for disconnecting the level sensor. It's just a magnetic contact- closes when the bulb drops. Put an ohm meter on it and verify it's open when you have enough fluid. Then re-connect it, as that isn't your problem (IF it was, you'd have the water level light on).

This is one of those situations where you should consider calling whoever installed the system for help; you seem a slight bit over your head. And I don't mean to be insulting- I'll continue to try to help (as will others I'm sure)- but getting your car up fast might be best achieved by recruiting some professional help.
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:15 PM   #3669
Subabu
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Read the Manual more thoroughly, it didn't make sense the first time. It does now. I basically want to find out if everything is functioning. In the past under full boost the guage would read 6 bars. Now I'm only getting 4, if that before the failsafe light kicks on. The only reason why I disconnected the water level sensor was to take that out of the equation. No change in mixture (I'm using the same windshield washer fluid I have always been using). Roughly 60:40 water/meth

Climbhigh09, once I have removed the PRK, jumped TST and turned the ignition on, I plan on having the jet in a measure cup to see what CC's I get after exactly one minute. I am the second owner of the car after the rotated setup, injectors and meth was added so I don't know what size jet the tuner used. Are my calculations correct?

DW 750cc injectors X 4 = 3000

50:50 methanol/water, run 15-20% to fuel. So like I said 60:40 water/meth should be about 17% fuel

3000 x 17% = 510cc's should be my total output after one minute of simulating 100% injection, give or take 10%.

While the simulation is going on, the bars on my guage should be about 6 bars right? if not can I just turn the SC setting on the guage until it reads 6 bars? With that done I'm wondering if the that will stop the failsafe from triggering.

I have done some road test and in 6th gear at about 2200rpm if I slowly roll the throttle on, B lights up it begins the spray and a few bars display and then B turns off and the failsafe light will kick on. So I'm thinking under load it does this. However hard pull from 1st to 3rd don't illicit the same results. I actually get 4 bars of flow.

Help!
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:42 AM   #3670
paul martell
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Richard,

I was wondering if the inlet/outlet portion that houses the piston on a 2d race pump can be replaced?
I know that line of pump was discontinued but is there a US supplier that might have some old stock sitting around? If so who do you recommend? Thanx, paul m.
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:31 AM   #3671
Aquamist
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We have virtually zero stock of spares for this pump. This is the 7th year since the discontinuation.

You might be able to get a few spares from the FS section but cannot guarantee which internal part is in good state. It all depends on how well the pump was looked after from new.
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Old 01-18-2013, 12:37 PM   #3672
climbhigh09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subabu View Post
Read the Manual more thoroughly, it didn't make sense the first time. It does now. I basically want to find out if everything is functioning. In the past under full boost the guage would read 6 bars. Now I'm only getting 4, if that before the failsafe light kicks on. The only reason why I disconnected the water level sensor was to take that out of the equation. No change in mixture (I'm using the same windshield washer fluid I have always been using). Roughly 60:40 water/meth

Climbhigh09, once I have removed the PRK, jumped TST and turned the ignition on, I plan on having the jet in a measure cup to see what CC's I get after exactly one minute. I am the second owner of the car after the rotated setup, injectors and meth was added so I don't know what size jet the tuner used. Are my calculations correct?

DW 750cc injectors X 4 = 3000

50:50 methanol/water, run 15-20% to fuel. So like I said 60:40 water/meth should be about 17% fuel

3000 x 17% = 510cc's should be my total output after one minute of simulating 100% injection, give or take 10%.

While the simulation is going on, the bars on my guage should be about 6 bars right? if not can I just turn the SC setting on the guage until it reads 6 bars? With that done I'm wondering if the that will stop the failsafe from triggering.

I have done some road test and in 6th gear at about 2200rpm if I slowly roll the throttle on, B lights up it begins the spray and a few bars display and then B turns off and the failsafe light will kick on. So I'm thinking under load it does this. However hard pull from 1st to 3rd don't illicit the same results. I actually get 4 bars of flow.

Help!
You're certainly on the right track now

Measuring your flow will be nice, but without the original baseline you can only guess what you're shooting for. Have you tried checking the filter?
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:07 PM   #3673
Subabu
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Thats next on the list. Unfortunately I have to take the bumper skin off because everything is mounted on the drivers side near the stock washer fluid tank.

Should I try to "twiddle" the SC on the guage while doing the injection test if it doesn't read 6 bars? From what I've read WL covers 1-4 Bars and WH covers 5-8 bars.

If I'm triggering the failsafe in the WH 5-8 bars in 5th or 6th under load perhaps I can turn the WH to allow the WI to reach the "maximum flow" the SC was set to under the injection test, then dial it back a few clicks.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:29 PM   #3674
climbhigh09
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Bumper takes 5 min to take off.
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Old 01-18-2013, 08:41 PM   #3675
paul martell
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Hey Richard,

My name is Paul. I just wrote you yesterday about replacing the internals of the now discontinued race pump for my 2d system. I was wondering if there was some other way to make my system operational again without that particular pump. If so how do I go about obtaining a new style pump? Thanx, Paul M.
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