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Old 07-10-2007, 04:19 PM   #26
subysouth
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Perfect timing, I had just logged on to reply.

Ok here we go.



First pic is of the parts I got together to do the deed. The parts on the left that are painted gray are the old parts. I sandblasted them and hit them with some paint.

New parts are to the right and bottom.

The PNs there are:

901000169 OEM shoulder bolt to replace the riveted pin at the front of the u-joint

33022GA081 OEM linkage spring, figured the old one was tired

982-008 AutoZone M8 1.25 self-locking nut

The McMaster PNs are above, again 4 3/4" length bushings for the u-joint and 2 1/2" length bushings for the shifter itself in the car.





Next pic is the close up of the u-joint with the 4 McMaster bushings installed. There is less than .5mm of gap between the two bushings inside the u-joint when theyre installed, so its almost like a continuous sleeve.





Next pics are of the u-joint assembled. The u-joint bushings are 3/8" ID and the u-joint shoulder bolts are 10mm(this is tight to assemble,) so I used a vise to press the shoulder bolts through each side and because of this I assembled the linkage rod to the u-joint also off the car. Because we are using SAE bushings in a metric assembly we are actually adding .5mm more material in the area between the shoulder bolt and the u-joint tubes. The result is an exceptionally tight finished product. You can also see in the pic, the OEM shoulder bolt threads are extending past the nut a bit. As can be seen in the next pic, I remedied that on the grinder to insure maximum clearance once the u-joint is installed. I used a M8 1.25 self-locking nut from Autozone because the AZ nut head is about 1.5mm shorter than the OEM locking nut head and in this area every bit of clearance helps, as a bonus its also a lot less expensive. Also, the locking mechanism on the AZ nut is at the base not at the top like the OEM nut, so I could grind with no remorse.







This last pic is of the joint installed. I dont know if it shows up well in the pic but its tight but there are absolutely no clearance issues.





So there you have it, using another OEM shoulder bolt and the McMaster bushings = good. I am anxious to try it out, based on Josh's experience, it should be durable.

ss
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Last edited by subysouth; 04-10-2008 at 07:23 PM. Reason: said 1/2" where I needed to 3/8"
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:04 AM   #27
b0dh1
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Hey dude. Nice work with your writeup and pics

I just wanted to let everyone know that I tried the
'Optional: 4 bronze flanged bearings can be substituted for the nylon bearings. McMaster Carr part # 7815K19'
and it was EXTREMELY noisy! I just got my urethane ones in today so I'll be throwing them in tomorrow.
Nice work with the pivot bushings. If I didn't already have Tom's I would be placing a third order at McMaster
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:10 PM   #28
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Very nice setup! You'll have to let us know how it feels.
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:19 PM   #29
subysouth
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Im still working on getting the tranny re-installed but I got to the shifter already and just cycling it in the car feels great. I reply back once its underway.

ss
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Old 07-12-2007, 12:28 PM   #30
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Would it have been easier to call Tic and just order there coupling and install it?
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Old 07-12-2007, 01:46 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxwhite View Post
Would it have been easier to call Tic and just order there coupling and install it?
Would you rather pay $80 or $10? For the same final product.
The way all us DIYers did it required an extra 10 minutes to grind a weld.
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Old 07-12-2007, 01:49 PM   #32
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And don't get me wrong, I have every other TIC/Kartboy shift related products. But I wasn't paying near $100 for this. If they could 'service' your assembly, say if you sent it in to them, I'm sure it would be much cheaper. But they include all new OEM (I think) parts which cost roughly $50 alone.
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Old 07-13-2007, 12:33 PM   #33
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From what TiC has said, the coupling they now sell isn't for cars with the centering spring. They are working to come up with a solution, but the last I talked with them they hadn't come up with something yet.
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:13 PM   #34
subysouth
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Yea the hardest part of this job is removing the roll pins while the piece is on the car and youre gonna have to do that with the TiC piece too unless your tranny is out. This literally was about $10 for everything and that includes the bushings for the shifter inside the car. TiC has some awesome products but like Josh says, not for the external spring setups and this is cheap and really easy. Clearance at the front pinned joint was the only issue at hand IMO and thats been answered and the replacement for that front pin is oem.

ss
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Old 07-22-2007, 09:05 AM   #35
subysouth
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OK finally got the tranny back in and the car down on its shoes and on the road. This solution is exceptional IMO. There is basically absolutely no play in the linkage at all and if there is any increase in NVH its minimal at worst. The annoying rattle that had plagued the shifter since I put in the Kartboy shift lever is entirely gone now, it was likely due to metal on metal contact in that u-joint. I am guessing the oem bushings were largely shot and have been since I got the car.

I give this mod the .

ss
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Old 07-23-2007, 01:05 PM   #36
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awesome dude!
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Old 10-22-2007, 07:41 PM   #37
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I need to do this for my legacy wagon as its shifter everything is shot, but do you guys think this would work on the newer setups as well. Hate to pay $80 for a linkage (although I have the rest of the tic setup)
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Old 10-23-2007, 12:49 PM   #38
Legacy777
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Yeah it should work. I'm running the newer setup. I've got a WRX shifter assembly/linkage.
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Old 11-02-2007, 07:34 PM   #39
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I just got finished installing my new, improved linkage with McMaster-Carr bushings. I went with the same bushings subysouth used, the 3/4" long ones. What. A. Pain. In. The. Ass!!!!!!! From the roll pin that was impossible to get out to the 10mm bolt that was nearly impossible to get through the 3/8" bushings it just sucked all the way around. (I should have been smart enough to just enlarge the 8mm hole in the bracket to 3/8" and buy a 3/8" bolt to use, but I didn't bother )

The shifter certainly feels markedly better, but I wouldn't want to go through that job again!

Pat Olsen
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Old 11-03-2007, 09:01 PM   #40
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I ordered my bushings today - not sure what I am going to have time to screw around with it though
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Old 11-03-2007, 10:10 PM   #41
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while a clutach install on my friends '95 Legacy, I got some 1mm plastic washers and stuck each at both sides of the joint. I cut the washer so it's not a "C" shaped instead of an "O" so I can slide it past the bolt. I was unable to pull off the WHOLE joint assembly because the tranny was still under the car and it's SUPER STUCK on there. BUT it was an AWESOME fit and now it feels AWESOME again. the slope sucked.
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Old 11-04-2007, 01:33 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FuJi K View Post
the slope sucked.
Let's try to keep the ethnic slurs out of this. It's uncalled for.
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Old 11-07-2007, 03:17 AM   #43
subysouth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post

The shifter certainly feels markedly better, but I wouldn't want to go through that job again!

Pat Olsen
I told you it was tough to get the bolts through but that tightness makes it all worth it IMO. Glad you like it. Yes the roll pins are a pita too, I was lucky the tranny was out already.

ss
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:25 PM   #44
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As I mentioned in my original post, If you have a grinder, go make yourself a set of these.

Quote:
Slide the joint back on the shifter rod of the transmission, and reinstall the spring pins. This process can be a pain, because the spring pins do not want to stay put so you can knock them back into place. I ended up fabricating my own custom punches with 1/4" round bar & a grinding wheel. I made the tip of the round bar smaller so that it slid in the center of the spring pin to hold it on the bar. This provided enough support so that the spring pin didn't slide out when I was trying to reinstall it.

I would have been at it a lot longer if I hadn't of made these:
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...m/DCP_4188.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...m/DCP_4192.JPG
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...m/DCP_4193.JPG
Josh
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Old 11-13-2007, 08:17 PM   #45
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I luckily have a set of long quality punches - but yet still have yet to attemp this cause I am too lazy to order the new shoulder bolt and spring
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Old 01-30-2008, 07:03 PM   #46
subysouth
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Just a quick six month review. All the hardware is tight. The shifting is still tight and precise and really a pleasure to operate.

ss
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:18 AM   #47
Sharky NRK
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mine are still sitting on the shelf - its too cold and the car too dirty to screw with - but good to hear they are holding up
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Old 01-31-2008, 10:26 AM   #48
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Tips on the roll pin.

use 2 punches.

1/4" for driving it through.

bigger than 1/4" to get it started. We usually opt for a long 1/2" impact extension.

3lb mini sledge.

Use the big punch and the mini sledge to get it started. once the pin moves initially it's pretty easy to make it move more.

Once the end of the pin is flush with the surrounding surface then switch to the 1/4" punch.

For reinstall we put the pin in the "cup" end of a long 3/8" extension. This holds it nicely so you can at least get it started. once you have it started then flip the extension around and use it to drive it in the rest of the way.

Granted you ding up some extensions this way, but everyone seems to have spares of those sitting around.
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Old 01-31-2008, 11:00 AM   #49
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That is exactly how I do it Tic. Harbor freight punches FTW
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Old 04-10-2008, 05:36 PM   #50
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Back from the depths......

I'm just about to go back out and install my shifter joint. I just needed to reference the pics to make sure I had the head of the cap screw on the right end. I'll post my findings in a few hours (got some beer to drink tonight)....

Jay Storm
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