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Old 04-22-2005, 03:22 PM   #1
flycaster
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Default Cobb Street Tuners - speak up!

OK. Enough time has passed that there should be someone out there (either Pro or Amateur) who has tried to use ST to dyno-tune a custom power package (upgraded blower, injectors, yada, yada.)

So, what's the scoop? Did it work, did it fail? Give us the news, good or bad.
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Old 04-22-2005, 03:40 PM   #2
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Bump. I remember it taking some time for detailed UTEC reviews to trickle in when it first came out about two and a half years ago. Still, the StreetTuner has been out for at least a month and a half now. Where are the reviews?
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Old 04-22-2005, 04:03 PM   #3
R4ND0M_AX3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterex
Bump. I remember it taking some time for detailed UTEC reviews to trickle in when it first came out about two and a half years ago. Still, the StreetTuner has been out for at least a month and a half now. Where are the reviews?
We're too busy playing with it and/or waiting for parts to come in that we can now tune for.
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Old 04-22-2005, 04:26 PM   #4
HonduHunter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R4ND0M_AX3
We're too busy playing with it and/or waiting for parts to come in that we can now tune for.
im waiting to install my wideband.
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Old 04-22-2005, 05:04 PM   #5
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Im waiting for my vf39...
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Old 04-27-2005, 11:21 AM   #6
psuknak05
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I am very curious about this also... I just have a TXS TMIC and walbro pump on top of the stage 2.5... have the street tuner, want to get a custom tune, but don't know how much it will benefit me with basically just a bigger IC. Any input? I want to get it tuned next week if I will see possitive results... just a little worried about minimal gains and the risk of using a new system to let someone learn on...
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:13 PM   #7
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The tools of the new system are working very well. Remember the ST is just a tool to access parameters of the engine calibration. I just started doing tests with my new wideband that I just got, so, as soon as I get some time off work I will start optimizing my tune.

I will post results soon.

I regards to your upgraded intercooler...

you can probably start messing with boost targets and waistegate duty cycle now. Because of your larger IC you may be able to start running slightly higher boost targets and WGDC... plus possibly slightly more timing and optimizing fuel because of the a cooler charge temp from your new IC.

You can start messing with it now... just make very small changes... then log and watch the KC closely to see if you are close enough to your KC targets... as long as your car is running an IAM of 16 then you should try to get within 1 or 2 degrees of the actual KC targets... if your there.. then you are safe, and you can slowly make the tune more aggresive.. Also watch egts and make sure the temps are not too high...

Last edited by buzz313th; 04-27-2005 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 04-27-2005, 12:58 PM   #8
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http://www.wrxhackers.com/forums/sho...hlight=targers

This might help you some. It's for the UTEC but you might be able to interpolate the data to apply to the way a Cobb log looks. It's RPM Vs. Load, where each load column basicly represents a fraction of boost pressure. It can be set up differently from car to car, but for a map targeted at 20 psi, the first column is basicly 0 psi or less, 2nd is 1 and 2psi, 3rd 3and 4psi, 4th 5 and 6 psi etc... up to 19-20 in the last (100%) column. I don't know what a Cobb log looks like though, so I just hope this helps. If it is setup that way, a lot of people like to use the highest load to add a safety zone. If you want to run 20 psi, set the map up for 20 psi up to the next to last column, then set the 100% column to add a little more fuel for safety (spikes, a colder day, whatever variables might make you overboost.) So you are running a 21 psi map, but only using 90% of its resolution.

Its' just a general idea of where your AFRs should end up. This layout is a bit conservative. I run leaner than those numbers without knock, but I started by getting my UTEC maps set to that point, for the boost I was using. Then I played with timing 'til I got knock and pulled it back into safe ranges in the trouble areas (around 4000 and a little over and around 5000 and a little over IIRC in my engine)

Once I felt good about that I started pulling out the fuel and finally feeling some decent results. With the stock UTEC maps the car was a pig. I think Cobbs base maps run the car a little harder (leaner certainly) so you might be closer to a good tune to start with, but that changes from car to car and place to place of course.

So yeah, small changes and then make several runs without change so you can see the width of problems. One pull might show lean from 5500 to 5800 when the next shows lean 5200 to 5700. So then I go in and fix that whole area. Then make more runs. After a few trials you'll learn how much to change to get close to your targets and the tuning will go faster.

Also remember that the results shown with your AFRs is a result of something that happened a second or two before it got logged (depending on where your wideband O2 is mounted.) You'll figure out how long an adjustment at one spot takes to reach the O2 sensor and how to 'lead' in effect, with the map. Adding fuel at 5500 rpm might show a fatter spot at 5800 or 6000 rpm, but it was really richer back at 5500.

Another good thing is to find a lot of good places to make decent pulls. The higher the gear and the longer the pull, the easier the results are to read. WRXs get decent logs from 3rd, STis get good ones in 4th. Trouble is you are breaking more and more laws. IE find enough good safe places (NO traffic, not just low traffic. Limited access, limited deer/racoon presence, great sight distance.) so you don't have to return too often so you won't draw attention to to yourself. Keeping a stock cat back for a while helps keep you out of trouble too. If you have the means a full 6th gear pull reads like a picture book with big print. But that is one nerve wracking pull and I'm sure I'll get jumped on for even mentioning it.

Or go to a dyno.
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:09 PM   #9
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Oh, being in Oregon I'd bet there are some shops that are really good with other subaru tuning systems. If you can find someone who's willing to learn a little, they'll know what to do. I got some parts from Suby Solutions up there for example. I don't know if they tune though.

My local guy (Mark at Turbo-Tunes in Greensboro) read the manual for the UTEC at Wendy's on evening and we were road tuning in the NC boonies about an hour or so later. He had only done one other subaru UTEC a while back, but was already amazingly proficient with hondata and the various GM and Ford mapping programs. Since neither of us knew the quirks of the boxer engine we just setup a safe map and got a little more juice out of the motor. He didn't charge me for his learning curve either. They like to know more so they'll probably want to put hands on the Cobb tuner for the experience.

At any rate, from that point, with a little review of what he did and the net results, followed months of reading everything at wrxhackers.com, I got to the point where I could do it myself. Now, I'm NOT good at making power yet. But I feel very comfortable developing a safe map. And I'm pretty proud of the curve traces I got when I went to the dyno. Pretty dern smooth. <pat's self on back> <again>
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Old 04-27-2005, 04:02 PM   #10
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2phless,

Very informative post...

Thanks
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Old 04-27-2005, 05:19 PM   #11
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2ph. utec load != ST load.

it doesnt work like that.

to properly convert from a utec map, you need a LOG (with utec) first...then you need to calculate the load based off of rpm and MAFv. then you can get close...but not on the dot.
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