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Old 05-05-2005, 06:59 PM   #1
cjfike
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1999 RS Coupe
Silver Thorn

Impreza GC8 Gauges go to upper limit...

as soon as the key is turned on.


The gauge power is coming from the cigarette lighter circuit. (switched 12V)

The ground is not required.

Temp sensor is in the front oil galley port, and the pressure sensor is in the rear oil galley port. The gauges are connected properly.

Both the pressure and temp go to the top limiter (peg) as soon as I turn the key on. What is up with that?
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Old 05-05-2005, 07:58 PM   #2
G3Red04WRX
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are they mechanical or electrical gauges? If so, i dont know how, but the signal might be reading reversed if they are electrical? Other than that, i would think you need to ground the gauges, no clue why you wouldnt need to ground them if they are electrical.
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:36 PM   #3
cjfike
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Thanks, for the info.

But yes they are 'electrical gauges'. That is kind of why my first line tells you they are connected to the cigarette lighter circuit.

The ground is not required because they are grounding through the sending units.

I tried grounding them also and it made no difference.
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Old 05-05-2005, 11:46 PM   #4
G3Red04WRX
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Ok, well you never specified they were "electrical" gauges. Anyone could have just assumed that you spliced from the cig power to light the bulb in the gauge to see it at night.

Only other suggestion is that maybe your tapping off the wrong lead for power and its causing a grounding error in the sending unit? Which lead on the outlet are you spliced into for the power? Should be the one with the big white stripe on it if i remember correct.
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Old 05-05-2005, 11:51 PM   #5
2phless
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What brand gauge?
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Old 05-06-2005, 07:50 AM   #6
cjfike
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Okay, I see your point but if I used the cigarette lighter for illuminiation, then the gauge lights would always be on, and would not dim.

2 Wires, black, and yellow w/red stripe. yellow w/red stripe = switched power. Orange is for illumination.

One thing I remember from days gone by is the head & fog lamp circuits have reverse ciruits where ground is switched rather than power.

I have not been able to locate any information where this is the case with anything other than road illumination is switched ground. Just for the sake of ruling that out, I am going to run direct from battery after I get a spool of wire that will reach.

Stay tuned.
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Old 05-06-2005, 07:52 AM   #7
cjfike
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Impreza GC8 What brand gauge?

Quote:
What brand gauge?
2phless, your posts on the 'domelight wiz' were very entertaining! The gauges in question are nobody's favorite 'autometer' phantom series. But the price of $60 for both NIB on ebay was just to good to pass up.
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Old 05-06-2005, 05:26 PM   #8
armand1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjfike
...
The ground is not required because they are grounding through the sending units.
...
Unless they are some new-design gauge with a pair of wires going to each sending unit (one ground and one signal), this is not true. The gauges require a *reference* ground to at least compare with the signal they get from the sending unit. This could very well be your problem.
Use a multimeter to verify that your +12V is really +12V and the ground you choose is really ground.
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Old 05-07-2005, 01:00 AM   #9
G3Red04WRX
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If I remember correct, there are electronic gauges that do not require ground like he is stating, they do in fact ground thru the threaded connection of the sending unit. There are 2 wires coming from the sending unit, one is the signal return to the gauge, and the other is the power lead to the sending unit.

I still suspect that you have the wires reversed and that is causing your gauges to go to the upper limit. There may be a good chance if this is the case that the gauges are now borked and you might need to get some new ones. Hopefully this isnt the case thou for you.
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Old 05-07-2005, 12:43 PM   #10
cjfike
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So I took power from the ignition switch (Subaru calls the 'combination switch') life is wonderful once again in River City, and western hemisphere is safe once again.

BTW, the temp guage wants a ground wire. The pressure guages do not seem to care but if the ground is connected the reading doesn't fluctuate +-3
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Old 05-08-2005, 01:28 PM   #11
G3Red04WRX
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So you figured it all out now? Sounds like you just needed to tap a different power source?

Oh, and pics of your setup now that its working?
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Old 05-08-2005, 02:10 PM   #12
cjfike
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Yes, I used the ignition instead of the cigarette lighter. Why the polarity is reversed in the first place is a mystery. I did not have any trouble with the headlight harness I made, but it states right on the wiring diagrams that the circuits are switched on the grounding wires. Which does make quite a difference when you are prepared at the START of the project. I am not familiar with a website that will hold pictures for me to post. I need to find one and post pictures.
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Old 05-08-2005, 05:32 PM   #13
cjfike
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Default Gauges Install





It is hard to find 45mm gauges and although OMORI makes them, they are a little pricey. I bought all of these for $60 on ebay. The guage module is a Subaru part, and I already had one. I bought AutoMeters DIN bezel which is way-to-wide for the front panel of the gauge module and modified it.

Right off the bat I'm going to volunteer just how crazy I am, I am nuts. I like to do things my-way and then they are going to be perfect the way I want them.

Tools used:

Jewelers saw with ultra fine blades - 120 teeth / inch
Razor saw (reverse cut) 90 teeth / inch
Kerf files
# 80, 120, 140 emory paper

Sqaudron Green filler - for soft plastics

Super glue GEL that will fill gaps, and acelerator spray to get it set faster.

The razor saw is somewhat sharp. If it were to brush against skin it wouldn't cut you. You basically would have to try to cut yourself with it, or leave it cutting side up on the bench. If you smash your finger nail you can use it to let the trapped blood out if you use some caution.

Cut the bezel into 3 pieces, bevel all 3 to 30 degrees taper. The gauge module opening is just under 7" wide. Removed 3/32" and 1/32" from the sides of the opening (this resulted in the opening reaching the outside of the mounting screw hole on the right side). All 3 bezels have to squared and left with 1/8" on each side measured from the outside edge to the max diameter of the 2 1/16" diameter gauge knock-out. Since all the ends are now open, three pieces of the same sheet styrene need to be cut and shaped to fit INSIDE the open ends. The tapering process brings that end to a flat profile.

Make sure all the parts fit together now because there is no going back. Glue the styrene fillers into the open ends with the gel. If you bought slow set super glue and you have a helper, you hold they spray the acelerant. Smooth out any rough spots with the emory paper, and glue all three to a sheet of .080 sheet of styrene plastic.

Now you wait for the gel to cure, and move into a very ventilated area before using the green putty to fill any gaps and to shape the raised ends so they don't look chopped as abruptly as a CRX rear end. The stuff is loaded with Toluene, and yes you will feel like you are floating if you do this indoors. Please make sure you blow out the pilot lights on all gas appliances first. Added bonus, it is carcinogenic. Let it cure completely before painting.

Trim all the styrene off the sides and edges. Cut the gauge bores with the jewelers saw. Prime it with any primer that will NOT melt plastic. Paint it with a spray acrylic or Dupli-Color vinyl over spray (not vinyl dye).

In the younger years I used to scratch build stuff when the model of the car/tank/airplane just wasn't complicated enough. You buy a plastic model and there is some bimbo sitting in the front seat, and everyone knows that bimbo's in the front seat of any convertible have to have 'large tracts of land'. So you get out the sculpey and give her 'augmentation in the fields'.

Have fun!
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