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Old 05-09-2005, 06:17 PM   #1
pinkrobe
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Lightbulb good place to aim lights?

I've had my ff1000 driving lights installed for a little while, but I don't have them aimed very well. I tried to do it in my garage, but the floor isn't super level and I can't get far enough back to do a good job. Does anyone know where I can find a nice level spot with a wall about 20' in front of it? Anywhere in Calgary will do, as long as I can access it at night. Thanks!
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Last edited by pinkrobe; 05-09-2005 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Capitalization
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Old 05-09-2005, 06:52 PM   #2
fragment
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If you find one, please let me know. I've been futzing with my Morette's for a while and still don't have them 100% right. The best would actually be a remote country road that's both level and has a freshly painted centre line. At least for my E-code projectors. But a level surface with a white wall would be nice too...
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Old 05-10-2005, 10:19 AM   #3
pinkrobe
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bumpski
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Old 05-11-2005, 11:14 AM   #4
pinkrobe
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bump-o-tron
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Old 05-11-2005, 02:35 PM   #5
imprezaboi
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If you have a friend that works in a shop or know someone do it there. Shops by law have to have their floors perfectly level.
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Old 05-11-2005, 10:45 PM   #6
pinkrobe
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Hmmmm. What if I found two spots on the body of the car that are the same height off the ground, then parked by a wall somewhere and used a laser level while using a floor jack or a piece of wood under the tires to get the car exactly level. Then to find the same relative height on the wall, I would use the laser level on the wall and reference it back to the car. I then measure to the location of the driving lights from the reference point on the car, measure the same amount off the line on the wall and presto! A reference frame! The only problem will be levelling the car. Oh yeah!
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Old 05-12-2005, 12:05 AM   #7
fragment
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That should work. The trick will be find two identical height points on the car. Actually four because you want it level side to side as well as front to back.
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Old 05-12-2005, 12:24 AM   #8
Mike D02
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Fragment
If you parked on a known flat spot in a garage (I can probably find one), placed a fixed target in front of the car and just made small adjustments against said target would that help?
Mike
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Old 05-12-2005, 12:33 AM   #9
fragment
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My friend lives in the country and has a 30' by 40' garage. Although the floor wasn't as flat as some, its pretty close. Using his wall about 15' away, we went through the calibration procedure for E code lights as described by Daniel Stern. We were able to get the vertical adjustments pretty close, but the longitudinal adjustments were way off. A longer focal length is needed for proper results.

But thanks for the idea.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:14 AM   #10
RiX
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Why don't you go to a large indoor parking place in your area? That's where I aimed my lights.

Bring a half bottle of water or leveller + electrical tapes (as markers) and drive all the down to the lowest level of the parking place where the floor is most levelled. Use the water bottle / leveller to make sure that you are levelled and then aim away.
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:23 AM   #11
pinkrobe
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^^^^^
That would work too, but aren't there C.H.U.D.'s down there?
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:21 PM   #12
fragment
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiX
Why don't you go to a large indoor parking place in your area? That's where I aimed my lights.

Bring a half bottle of water or leveller + electrical tapes (as markers) and drive all the down to the lowest level of the parking place where the floor is most levelled. Use the water bottle / leveller to make sure that you are levelled and then aim away.
I don't see your location, but if you're Canadian, that means you're aiming Halogen reflectors; not very demanding when it comes to aiming. If you're American, then you have a bit more precision required, but only on height. The flat cut off of the USDM Xenon's is pretty tolerant of longitudinal errors. My E-code lights need to be exactly on axis or they can still flash on coming traffic.
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:27 PM   #13
RiX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkrobe
^^^^^
That would work too, but aren't there C.H.U.D.'s down there?
I presume you mean CHUDs as in (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chud)?
Usually not in office buildings with security cameras.
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Old 05-12-2005, 01:52 PM   #14
Jitenshakun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiX
I presume you mean CHUDs as in (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chud)?
Usually not in office buildings with security cameras.
Huh. You learn something every day.

-J
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Old 05-12-2005, 04:51 PM   #15
pinkrobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RiX
I presume you mean CHUDs as in (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chud)?
Usually not in office buildings with security cameras.
I'm glad to see that somebody else has as questionable taste in movies as I do...
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:08 PM   #16
pinkrobe
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Default I should have paid more attention in math and physics...

Quote:
Originally Posted by fragment
That should work. The trick will be find two identical height points on the car. Actually four because you want it level side to side as well as front to back.
In that case, perhaps using the tops of the tires to get the car level would be better [they should be almost the same height]? If the tires are all at the same height, then the car should be in a neutral position. I could account for wear and uneven weight distribution by measuring the diameter of the tires along their vertical axis and the tire-to-fender-edge distance. The side-to-side levelling would be based off of the car itself, i.e. the bottom edges of the headlights... The flat spot in a parkade is looking pretty good right now. Oy!
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Old 05-12-2005, 11:29 PM   #17
rjhang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkrobe
I'm glad to see that somebody else has as questionable taste in movies as I do...
Actually, you are on your own, sir....
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