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Old 05-09-2005, 10:14 PM   #1
scooby-stu
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Default WRX to STI big nightmare

I have had the worst luck with this conversion i am posting hopefully to get some professional input not sympathy.

Back in January i bought a JDM ver7 sti from a vendor on here. When i got the engine there was no sticker to verify if it was real or not. I checked the the head numbers they only had the LHS20 and RHS20 i was under the impression that Sti has the V at the end but i was also told that this isn't allways definate. I also checked the back of the P/S pump as this is supposed to have STI stamped on it and it didn't

I decided to call the vendor and discuss my worries with them. I was told that the engine was genuine and not to worry as there source for engines are very reliable.

So i installed the engine with all the stock parts vf34 turbo sti injectors spec c ECU and the engine ran fine for about 3 weeks.
After that the engine started to feel less and less powerfull i was only getting 11 pounds of boost and it sounded like it was struggeling at higher revs.

I decided to change my setup with an fp green 800cc injectors and an of the shelf reflash by kingpin until i could get the car tuned. The setup i got, hardly made a difference no much more power than the stock setup

After this, i found out that the engine that i really had was a UK spec sti i found out by checking the intake ports they were of the small type.

Well i put the intake manifold back on spoke to the vendor i was told there wasn't really much difference between these and the jdm heads? regardless i wanted a JDM motor not this one.

A couple of days after that i was driving home the car lost power and smoke was pouring out of the exhaust the engine is dead

I am sure that the JDM ECU caused this problem from the start as it advances way more timing than the UK motor can handle.

A couple of things to add:

I used 100 oct until the map was reflashed

I asked Kingpin for lower octane on the new map

Never really had any sign of Knock

Sorry if this is long but it's driving me nuts any help would be very kind.
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Old 05-09-2005, 10:24 PM   #2
Need BB
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Add some comments to the vendor forum!
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Old 05-09-2005, 10:42 PM   #3
scooby-stu
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Really at the moment i am trying to figure out the likley cause
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:22 PM   #4
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sounds like a burnt ring or piston.faulty timeing could lead to detonation that would do that. what color was the smoke. bluish white=oil, white=water, and black=fuel. I am not an expert on the subaru engines but I know the three main causes of smoke out the back, oil form crankcase entering the cylinder, water from the jacket(ala blown gasket) either out the side onto headers or into the cylinder, and a rich condition putting out black smoke. If the engine was sold as JDM the vendor should give you a refund, UK spec is obviously NOT JDM no matter how minor the differences. Any details you can offer would help.

:edit: oh one more cause of smoke, a rod trying to escape the crankcase.
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:28 PM   #5
2000 RSTi
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If you bought a JDM motor they should have gave you a JDM motor not a UK motor so you should give it back to them and make sure that they give you a JDM one the 2nd time around.
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:31 PM   #6
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Umm... the early JDM V7 STis were small port heads as well as the UK V7 STi.

JDM ECU with UK engine will not make a difference. its the same motor.
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:35 PM   #7
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Damn Stuart, sorry to hear that. Are you sure it's not your turbo? I have a UK engine also and have run 3 different JDM ECU's for almost 2 years, one being the exact one you're using(literally ) and have had no problems. Maybe try to do a compression check? The UK motor only has the smaller heads and cams that are different, shouldn't really be enough to kill it. Maybe the motor you got just wasn't in great shape to begin with? Any other details you can think of?
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:37 PM   #8
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I found a ton of oil in the intercooler and turbo so i guess it came from the headers.

The vendor has said it was because i used a mail map

or because i didn't get the ECU reflashed with the first set-up how is this when i was using 100 octane

or because i didn't break the motor in properly.

These are all the things i researched and did ,and i knew i had to do.

The problem is you dont mod an engine for the wrong F*^Kin one!

Oh and they have offered to re-build the engine at my cost for and engine i never wanted.

nightmare
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garface
Damn Stuart, sorry to hear that. Are you sure it's not your turbo? I have a UK engine also and have run 3 different JDM ECU's for almost 2 years, one being the exact one you're using(literally ) and have had no problems. Maybe try to do a compression check? The UK motor only has the smaller heads and cams that are different, shouldn't really be enough to kill it. Maybe the motor you got just wasn't in great shape to begin with? Any other details you can think of?

Mike i was told by simon at prodrive that the JDM ECU will advance upto 30 degrees of timing, the UK engine can only go to about 20

And yes the JDM ECU will work on that motor if it's tuned for it
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:46 PM   #10
garface
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What limits it to 20 degrees? Does he mean that the stock UK ECU will only advance 20 deg or that the engine is only capable of that?
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:50 PM   #11
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I was told that the engine is only capable of that.

I am really not that advanced with these motors but i was told that anything past 20 on the UK motor will cause detenation
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:52 PM   #12
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JDM ECU with UK engine will not make a difference. its the same motor.[/quote]

Spec C ECU?
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Old 05-09-2005, 11:59 PM   #13
Hurley 2.5 WRS
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the JDM and UK motors are physicaly the same. timing probably had nothing to do with it, you probably just got a fluke motor.
bad luck. find out what the problem is, and get the vendor to get the parts, pay for them, or help you out.
there is no way to tell if it is your fault or not.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:12 AM   #14
scooby-stu
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At the end of the day i really dont know if this is even a UK sti motor i posted a pic of the heads and clark for kingpin replied, forester heads with avcs
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:20 AM   #15
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My advice would be to find out what broke. It seems like you are trying to find a cause for a problem which you have not identified. Unfotunetly this is part of the game. Wish you the best and good luck, sorry to see things like this happen
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:20 AM   #16
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At a legal standstill does anyone know where i stand?
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:29 AM   #17
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If there is anything broken in the engine at this point, you might be SOL. No point on trying to blame anyone now. Figure out whats wrong with the motor and go from there.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:40 AM   #18
scooby-stu
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Where is the Justice in this though?

I order an Engine worried about it origin assured that it's the real deal, its not, then it breaks

Now if i send it back to the vendor it seems as though they want me to pay for shipping.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scooby-stu
Where is the Justice in this though?

I order an Engine worried about it origin assured that it's the real deal, its not, then it breaks
.
Like i said man, you have to find out what broke and why.

The other issue is did you check the motor when you installed it? Compression and leak down test. It may have been fine when you got it and simply given out for a host of reasons, it does not mean they sold you a bad motor. Without knowing what is broken you are at best guessing. Sorry to say but you will likely have to take the engine apart to get some answers.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:48 AM   #20
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I'm also not understanding why when you originally had a problem with your motor not making power and boost only hitting 11psi that you decided to throw a green on there instead of trying to find out what the issue was then?

I can sympathize and unfortunetly empathize. Good luck, honestly.
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Old 05-10-2005, 12:56 AM   #21
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Please post the name of the vendor!!!
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:00 AM   #22
scooby-stu
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Seems as though everybodys guess is as good as mine and the motor needs to be taken apart.

As for putting on the green i thought it was just a wastegate issue and i was going for that setup after the break in period.

The Vendor admitted they were wrong not to test the motor and not checking if it was true JDM.

I just hope this can get resovled ASAP

I'll keep you posted
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:01 AM   #23
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some oil in the IC is normal. it is a result of the PCV system. define "a ton"? also, when you sai its "dead" do you mean it won't start or won't turn over? A CR test could tell you alot about whats going on as well.
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:02 AM   #24
scooby-stu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dexterous
Please post the name of the vendor!!!

I really don't want to do that as i dont wanna rattle there cages any more than i have done and i do like them for now and consider them a great company.
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Old 05-10-2005, 01:05 AM   #25
scooby-stu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbird Man
some oil in the IC is normal. it is a result of the PCV system. define "a ton"? also, when you sai its "dead" do you mean it won't start or won't turn over? A CR test could tell you alot about whats going on as well.
When the engine died and the spoke came out i had lost all the oil and a good quart was in the I/C

can a compression test be done when the motor is out? I did it when it was out and they all was around 30
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