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Old 05-12-2005, 01:01 PM   #1
acrescen
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 48218
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
2000 2.5 RS
Dark Blue

Default 2.5 RS Brake problem

I've been having trouble with the brakes on my 2000 2.5 RS Coupe and as yet all the "common" fixes I've tried have not solved it. Basically, I have to depress the brake pedal 1/4 to 1/2 inch before the brakes even begin to slow the car down. When applying them harder (hard enough to stop, say) the pedal is lower than normal and isn't as firm as it should be. Pumping the pedal does not seem to build line pressure, as it would if there were air in the lines.

The brake system is all stock (save for OE replacement pads/rotors). The calipers seem to work correctly (not siezed, etc.) and everything else looks as it should be. The master cylinder is not losing fluid.

So far I have attempted to fix the problem by:
Bleeding brakes
Replacing master cylinder
Replacing pads/rotors
Replacing vaccum line and check valve (rubber hose from manifold to power booster)
Replacing power brake booster
Adjusting brake pedal height

Anyone ever have a similar problem? I've tried just about everything I can think of so if I can't get it sorted myself, I'll end up taking the car to the dealer. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 05-12-2005, 02:20 PM   #2
omahasubaru
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 1594
Join Date: Jun 2000
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Gretna, NE
Vehicle:
1995 WRX
2002 Legacy

Default

Bleed the brakes again... Make sure you are doing them in the right order and buy some different colored fluid and bleed out any/all of the old stuff in there.

Still sounds like a bleeding issue to me.
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Old 05-12-2005, 04:04 PM   #3
Craig W
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 643
Join Date: Dec 1999
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Redwood City, CA, USA
Vehicle:
1999 2.5RS
WRX powered

Default

The 1st gen RS's have always had a soft brake pedal. I've installed stainless steel brake lines, different pads and rotors, Motul fluid, etc. and none really fix the problem.
Here's info on the soft pedal problem. http://www.spdusa.com/soft.htm
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Old 05-12-2005, 04:51 PM   #4
cjfike
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Member#: 60116
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: (ab)Normal IL
Vehicle:
1999 RS Coupe
Silver Thorn

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Putting in the single stage booster is a PITA. But the end result is worth it.
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:04 PM   #5
jlevy
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Member#: 15696
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Houston (clear lake)
Vehicle:
2007 Mini Cooper S
Dark Silver and White

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I think the booster you're got is a good one to match with the WRX master cylinder. You should have the 1" m/c right now and the smaller tandem 7"/8" booster. The WRX uses a 1 1/16" m/c. I've got this setup on my car and it feels pretty good (with WRX front and the H6 rear rotors). Here's some more info if you're interested. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466880

I don't think I'm really answering your question since you seem to indicate your brakes used to work better than they do now. It looks like you've already changed a bunch of stuff. I'd suggest bleding the brakes again too, especially since you replaced the m/c, some of those bubbles can be a pain to get through the system.

-my 0.02
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Old 05-12-2005, 05:48 PM   #6
acrescen
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 48218
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
2000 2.5 RS
Dark Blue

Default

I've actually bled the brakes several times between changing all the other parts. Once just to see if that was the problem, again with the master cylinder, a third time with the pads rotors and also when I replaced the booster.

As far as bleed sequence I'm not sure if it was 100% according to the reccomendation, but I did do, say RF/LR and then LF/RR...can't remember exactly, but I did start at one front corner then bleed the opposite rear and repeated for the remaining two wheels.

As far as pedal feel, I'm just looking to get it back to what it was originally.

Thanks for the suggestions!
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Old 05-12-2005, 08:29 PM   #7
99WRXEJ20
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Member#: 34545
Join Date: Mar 2003
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Worthington, Ohio
Vehicle:
1999 GC8
74f

Default

HAHAHA

I have this same problem too. It sucks hardcore. I was getting ready to start replacing all the little parts that you have so now I think I will just buy the spd upgrade for 400 bucks.

Can some please explain the reason behind the install of the single stage booster being a PITA.
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Old 05-12-2005, 09:42 PM   #8
IronMonkeyL255
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Member#: 38120
Join Date: Jun 2003
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Greenville, SC
Vehicle:
1991 Rio Red
Legacy Turbo

Default

<--------- Helped swap one into a WRX

It's difficult to get to the mounting stuff inside the cabin, and it is difficult to get out once you do.
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