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Old 05-18-2005, 01:59 PM   #1
n2xlr8n
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Default Engine install Gurus....tips and tricks?

I'd like to hear from those of you whom have installed EJs into their WRXs. The install can be an easy task, or it can be difficult. The difference is in the details, tricks, and what not to dos that are in the procedure. Would you guys please share the information you have in this thread?

i.e. "When inserting the tranny input shaft into the flywheel, get the tranny mounted on the studs, then use the factory bolts to snug it up"

or, "when installing the timing belt, make sure that the marks are....."

Something along those lines.

Thanks!

Steve
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Last edited by n2xlr8n; 06-28-2005 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 05-18-2005, 02:08 PM   #2
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When this thread takes off, perhaps at some point in the future it would be a good candidate for merging with Jeff's shortblock swap thread:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=721709
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Old 05-18-2005, 02:44 PM   #3
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Putting some anti sieze on the 2 locating dowels, and 2 lower studs help slide the engine and trans together easier.
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Old 05-18-2005, 04:40 PM   #4
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I sent a PM to tmarcel with a whole bunch of do's and dont's. Hopefully he still has it and will post it up for me because I can't find it anymore.

Sorry I'm no help
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:00 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbiker97
Putting some anti sieze on the 2 locating dowels, and 2 lower studs help slide the engine and trans together easier.

Nice. Thank you for that.
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloRice
I sent a PM to tmarcel with a whole bunch of do's and dont's. Hopefully he still has it and will post it up for me because I can't find it anymore.

Sorry I'm no help


Alright, let's have it, tmarcel.
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:26 PM   #7
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I've done it way more times than I'd like to at this point. Grease everything that goes together is a good tip. Jack up the transmission, get the studs into the transmission, and go from there. Sometimes things just slip into place completely, other times you end up having to work it together with the bolts. Put a socket on the crank nut and keep rotating it to make sure the splines are lined up correctly. Get a set of extra long tranny bolts (4 instead of 2) and use those to bring it together straight, if need be. Be careful with the power steering line, guys have stripped out the fitting on the ps pump before.
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Old 05-18-2005, 06:58 PM   #8
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Ok guys here you go. Sorry for not getting back to this sooner. I'm traveling right now without a lot of time to play.

Tim said:

Quote:
Hey Todd,
The car seems to be running alright. It has a weird idle issue when coming to a stop and I push the clutch in where it almost stalls out sometimes or it will stall out. I think it’s a vacuum leak, but haven’t really investigated it. I also blow a nice blue tinted cloud on cold startup. It doesn’t do it all the time, but I think it’s due to taking the butterflies out of the TGV’s. Other than that, she’s running good…about 550 miles so far. I thought you had your motor pulled already?? Or did you buy a 2.5 shortblock and are swapping all your wrx stuff to the 2.5 block? Anyways, we pulled the 02 sensor out just to be safe. Didn’t want to break it as they are expensive.

Other things to remember…hmmm…..

When pulling the intake manifold off, unbolt the TGV from the heads, don’t pull the intake manifold off the TGV’s….it can all come off as one.

Double and triple check your cam gear timing esp. after dropping the motor in b/c I think they moved as we were trying to get the motor on the input shaft of the tranny. Somehow after 3 of us checked it twice, 3 of the 4 cam gears were 180* off.

When installing the motor, make sure the dogbone mount on the top of the tranny is undone from the tranny…that will allow the tranny to tilt up more to line the motor up. Also jack the tranny up to get more of an angle. This was a growing pain for us….

When trying to put the motor on the input shaft, we used a ratchet on balancer bolt to spin the motor (clockwise when looking at the front of the motor) as we tried to push it on to the input shaft…helped out a little for lining everything up.

Use a little oil or anti-seize on the input shaft to lube it up. We used anti-seize so we didn’t get oil on the clutch.

Make sure the rear oil seal around the crank isn’t pushed in to far….flush with the block probably works (I think mine sticks out 1/8” at most as I couldn’t get it to go in any further)

When pulling coolant and vacuum hoses off of nipples, if they don’t come off with a little force or a little screw driver, cut them off….cheaper to replace a hose than a nipple attached to some expensive part of the block or heads or intake.

When you have the motor out, take pictures of everything!!! Especially where all the vacuum lines go. Multiple pictures of every different angle. 90% of the wiring and hoses will come off with the intake manifold/TGV’s. The service manuals will not help when it comes to putting all of this back together. We went by the pictures we took. If you do run into a problem, PM me and I’m sure I have a pic of it if you didn’t get it.

That’s about it. You’ve done a lot of the hard parts already in building the shortblock. If you aren’t using new head studs, I would recommend it as we have the kind that stretch and are really only supposed to be used once. I got the ARP’s and they were a bitch to do, but definitely worth it IMO.

That’s about all I can think of. If you have questions, send me a PM or give me a call. My work # is 330- (M-F 8am-6pm); cell # is 513- (any other time – day or night – as I’m a night owl)

Talk to you later,
Tim
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Old 05-18-2005, 07:06 PM   #9
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I should be putting my motor back in this weekend (crosses fingers). I'll let you know if I have anything additional to add during the install.
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Old 05-24-2005, 12:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmarcel
I should be putting my motor back in this weekend (crosses fingers). I'll let you know if I have anything additional to add during the install.

Any news?
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Old 05-24-2005, 02:03 PM   #11
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Nope...another weekend gone by and another one that I plan on finishing. Frustrating as hell though I REALLY THINK that I've got everything needed now. Seems like every time I think I'm ready there's something else to get. The good thing is that I got my valve lash zero'd in so no ticking lifters (new shims will be here by Thurs/Fri this week). I'll let ya' know.

Have you started your install yet?
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Old 05-24-2005, 03:33 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmarcel
Have you started your install yet?


Not even close; I'm sending the pistons out for coating. Upon their return, the block will go out for machining.....not to mention I've still got to get my cylinder heads from Crawford (no fault of their's). Meanwhile, the turbos keep getting cheaper.

I was planning on making this project a winter '04 completion...now it's a winter '05 completion. I'm never in a rush when building cars.....never.
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Old 05-24-2005, 04:07 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2xlr8n
I'm never in a rush when building cars.....never.
Wow, you and I couldn't be more different Nothing ever seems to move fast enough for me. I can be a little impatient I guess.
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Old 05-24-2005, 05:14 PM   #14
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Subscribed. New information that never made it into my thread noted...
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Old 05-24-2005, 05:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloRice
When you have the motor out, take pictures of everything!!! Especially where all the vacuum lines go. Multiple pictures of every different angle. 90% of the wiring and hoses will come off with the intake manifold/TGV’s. The service manuals will not help when it comes to putting all of this back together. We went by the pictures we took.
I would LOVE to have these pictures *before* starting.
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Old 05-24-2005, 05:30 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tmarcel
Wow, you and I couldn't be more different Nothing ever seems to move fast enough for me. I can be a little impatient I guess.

Call it experience.

Let's see....1982. Replaced a broken cam in between rounds. Forgot the button. Sent brass shavings into a new engine: $5500

1990. Got into a trash-talking fest at a street race....never checked my air pressure. Saved it, but scared the hell out of me: $10 for new underwear

1993. Full-tilt boogie pass on a brand new set of Badmonth Hawk 32-12.50 slicks. Didn't "have time" to do a shake-down pass. Destroyed the car (luckily I paid my chassis guy handsomely...the cage saved me): $31,000

1997. I filled my radiator (when the overflow was full) prior to a pass, and 1.28 60 footed into the guardrail...I was in a rush to tune the chassis: $4000

2000. Assembled personal short block. Checking piston to valve clearance, discovered rods hit block. Tear it back down. Machined block. Buy new oil pan. Reassembled. Valve clearance <.100" on exhaust. Tear it back down. Have pistons flycut. Reassembled. Checked camshaft to rod clearance. Not in safe zone. Tear it back down. Send cam off to have it ground on a smaller base circle, buy new pushrods. Reassembled: $$$ in labor (mine)

Best advice: If you're going to go fast, you'd better have time to do it twice.
At least twice.

S.
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Old 05-24-2005, 05:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblaine
I would LOVE to have these pictures *before* starting.

Is your project complete? If not, PM me your email addy, and hopefully between my pics (roughly 30 of them), and slowrice' pics, you'll be good to go.

S.
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Old 05-24-2005, 08:59 PM   #18
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Could one of you guys host the pics and give me the link? Hopefully that's not asking too much
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Old 05-24-2005, 09:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2xlr8n
Call it experience.

Let's see....1982. Replaced a broken cam in between rounds. Forgot the button. Sent brass shavings into a new engine: $5500

1990. Got into a trash-talking fest at a street race....never checked my air pressure. Saved it, but scared the hell out of me: $10 for new underwear

1993. Full-tilt boogie pass on a brand new set of Badmonth Hawk 32-12.50 slicks. Didn't "have time" to do a shake-down pass. Destroyed the car (luckily I paid my chassis guy handsomely...the cage saved me): $31,000

1997. I filled my radiator (when the overflow was full) prior to a pass, and 1.28 60 footed into the guardrail...I was in a rush to tune the chassis: $4000

2000. Assembled personal short block. Checking piston to valve clearance, discovered rods hit block. Tear it back down. Machined block. Buy new oil pan. Reassembled. Valve clearance <.100" on exhaust. Tear it back down. Have pistons flycut. Reassembled. Checked camshaft to rod clearance. Not in safe zone. Tear it back down. Send cam off to have it ground on a smaller base circle, buy new pushrods. Reassembled: $$$ in labor (mine)

Best advice: If you're going to go fast, you'd better have time to do it twice.
At least twice.

S.

You've got a good point. I hope (keyword hope) that I've taken my time enough but the progress has been slower than I would prefer. The only thing at this point I would like to recheck would be the rod weights, which I didn't do and new rod bearings that had only 12k on them (everything else is new replacement though as you know like pistons and cyl bores).

Thanks for your input on that and is appreciated.
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Old 05-24-2005, 11:48 PM   #20
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I'll host any build up pictures you want. Pm me for my email addy. I'm sure I have a bunch laying around I'm just not sure where they are.
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Old 06-06-2005, 09:22 AM   #21
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Okay, my engine is back in Big props to sjl1614 (Scott) for giving me a hand. Without him I may still be fighting with the install. He had a very cool device that attached to the hoist. It was a camber sort of device, which allowed the engine to be tilted either forward or backwards on the fly. That really helped. Other than that, we used lithium grease on the studs and dowels but known on the input shaft. It probably took 1hr once it was hanging down in the engine bay to get it pushed back on the trans.
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Old 06-06-2005, 09:41 AM   #22
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I heard those leveling devices were for women

Congrats man. Glad to hear it.
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Old 06-06-2005, 09:59 AM   #23
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you will need some special tools. specifically; beer.
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:57 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by attitude
you will need some special tools. specifically; beer.

Yeah, I was drinking beer (first at the pool and then with the car ) but Scott was not. He's a tech for a living so he probably doesn't like to mix the two LOL!
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Old 06-06-2005, 10:58 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2xlr8n
Is your project complete? If not, PM me your email addy, and hopefully between my pics (roughly 30 of them), and slowrice' pics, you'll be good to go.

S.
How did I miss this?

PMing.
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