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Old 10-25-2007, 09:44 AM   #76
ride5000
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i like my streetlite and would not go back to oem weight, but you'd better be prepared for gear lash noise (aka deceleration noise).
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Old 10-25-2007, 10:06 AM   #77
jc54 wrc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
i like my streetlite and would not go back to oem weight, but you'd better be prepared for gear lash noise (aka deceleration noise).
I'm fine with noise.
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Old 11-03-2007, 03:02 PM   #78
BlueDevil09
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yeah, that decel noise is sometimes embarrassing. like when slowing down into town and the damn thing is grinding like a chainsaw. i dont mind it really myself, but my wife always comments on it. i just say "it's a race clutch, baby, their supposed to sound like that." ...then i get that look.
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Old 11-09-2007, 01:31 PM   #79
Arctic Assassian
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figured I'd bump it. We should have this stickied.
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Old 11-10-2007, 09:54 AM   #80
mike280
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I have an 02 WRX with 96K on it. I believe the stock clutch. It is starting to chatter when it engages. It also engages high up, not mid way in the pedal throw. I haven't noticed any slippage.

I plan to do TBE and tune next summer but for now its all stock.

Would a stock replacement do the trick? or is there a cheap alternative?
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Old 12-13-2007, 02:34 PM   #81
nathansvt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueDevil09 View Post
yeah, that decel noise is sometimes embarrassing. like when slowing down into town and the damn thing is grinding like a chainsaw. i dont mind it really myself, but my wife always comments on it. i just say "it's a race clutch, baby, their supposed to sound like that." ...then i get that look.
I know that look
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:44 AM   #82
mrjoshm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ACTman View Post
Spring versus solid center discs: You claim that the springs are there to dampen the engagement of the clutch. Not so, at least not like the way you describe it. I think we just have a difference in terminology. The springs bottom out long before they really can do any good to help with a strong engagement such as a drag launch. The main purpose of the springs is to dampen out torsional vibrations from the engine. These vibrations (rotational pulses) if not dampened out, will cause the gears to growl in certain conditions. There are at least four distinct conditions that clutch manufacturers are concerned with tuning the spring center for. They are: acceleration noise, deceleration noise, coast rattle and idle rattle. Yes the clutch has to be engaged for the springs to work but the point of engagement has nothing to do with the springs. I think you were basically saying the same thing, only people get confused because most people think that the springs help to soften the engagement or reduce chatter. Chatter from aggressive friction materials in many cases is worse with a spring center disc so I wanted to clarify this point. The springs do reduce vibrations and shock that can cause noise and premature wear on the disc's splines and the gears. When you eliminate the springs, there is more noise, but the disc is lighter so it is easier on the syncros for faster shifting.
Dirk @ ACT
he said that if the vibrations are not dampened out it will cause the gears to growl, but if you don't dampen them will it hurt the transmission in any way?
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Old 12-16-2007, 02:10 AM   #83
nathansvt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjoshm View Post
he said that if the vibrations are not dampened out it will cause the gears to growl, but if you don't dampen them will it hurt the transmission in any way?
not in the sense that it will damage them, but you've got metal gears meshing and any additional vibrations will increase wear on those parts.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:11 PM   #84
charliew
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Default lightweight flywheel cels

I noticed when we were assembling a sti 2.5 with cosworth cams and stiffer springs how much harder the driver side intake cam was to turn to time up. I wonder if the 04 usdm sti has stiffer stock springs than the wrx and if this might make the gears jump around less and it's that instead of the double cam sensors? Has anyone with stiffer springs in the wrx heads also had cels from a lighter flywheel. I think lighter flywheels are a great bang for the buck but my experience is with engines with more torque than what the lower hp. subies have. I do know the antique vw motors I have played with even benefit from lighter flywheels. Most of my applications were in cars that were quite a bit lighter than stock also.

I wonder if a limiting device on the belt tensioner could also improve cam timing?

One more thing. Most of the clutch disks I have replaced in other cars had the disk springs collapsed or loose. Is this pretty common in subies?

Charliew

Last edited by charliew; 01-15-2008 at 12:16 PM.
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Old 03-01-2008, 06:41 AM   #85
STiEric
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Never mind found what I needed
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Old 03-04-2008, 01:12 PM   #86
bishopthomas
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Unabomber,
Thanks for the very clear information. Now I am looking forward to this job.
I have worked on cars, including race cars, since the early 60"s. I just finished removing, rebuilding, and reinstalling the engine in my 1 ton van, alone. This Subaru is my first OBD-2, and my first all wheel drive car, so I don't want to mess it up. It only has 170K miles and I am looking forward to many more.
Tom Bishop
bishopthomas@autosportgallery.com
www.artatspeed.org
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Old 04-02-2008, 05:02 AM   #87
DeadFlagBlues
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This clutch ish is a mystery to me. I noticed tonight, putting some miles on the new springs that my clutch is slipping, especially under heavy loads. I'm shooting for 300/300 at the wheels by the end of may with parts on the way. I would like more "mild" than "wild." This will be my daily driver, although, I only use a car 12 days out of the month. Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated!
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:42 AM   #88
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All the advice you need is in the first post. Find a clutch that holds at least 300TQ and buy that heap....it's really that simple. Just don't get one crazy stronger than your projected TQ.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:46 PM   #89
TJOD
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why does it say you should use careful consideration before using some types of clutches?
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:47 PM   #90
TJOD
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sorry if the question was already answered, i couldnt find it.
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Old 04-30-2008, 11:51 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJOD View Post
why does it say you should use careful consideration before using some types of clutches?

I'm not sure what you're asking. But in general, any increase in a clutch's ability to hold power comes with drawbacks of some kind, either in longevity, harshness, cost, or engagement. So in that respect, you need to carefully consider what your goals are and how much you want to trade.
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Old 05-12-2008, 06:03 PM   #92
ArkAngel
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Question Has anyone solved the flywheel CEL issue yet?

This is a fantastic post. Six years old and still totally applicable.

Has anyone figured how to stop the misfire error from popping the CEL? It's been happening for 7 years so I'm hoping someone smarter than me has figured it out but I don't see it anywhere.
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Old 06-30-2008, 01:07 AM   #93
Miercoles Cansado
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Unabomber, just as I get to where I'm rolling my eyes at some of your replies on various threads I find a great thread like this. You managed to answer my clutch questions before I even asked them. Thanks! If I ever make it back to Norfolk I'll get ya an Aventinus at the Bier Garden.
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Old 11-19-2008, 11:18 AM   #94
luka
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Would anyone know the Step (or I guess in scoobie's case Cup) spec for the EJ20G?

I think having those specs would be very valuable in this FAQ
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Old 01-26-2009, 12:48 PM   #95
spoolin!
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this thread is awesome help! Great Job Unabomber!!!
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:25 AM   #96
RubbleDTD
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Default FW weight versus moment of inertia

I have always been curious about this...

I would think that rating flywheels in terms of total weight would be superfluous because the critical function of the flywheel is to hold angular momentum via its property of rotational inertia at given rpm's.

If the rotational inertia of a rotating body is ultimately determined by the weight distribution away from the axis of rotation, then a 9 lb. flywheel with the weight concentrated near the outer edge of the FW could have the same inertial properties as a 14 lb. flywheel with the weight concentrated near the center of the flywheel.

Is this reasoning not correct? Please correct me if I am wrong.
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Old 02-06-2009, 07:54 AM   #97
ride5000
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it's perfectly correct.

however, describing flywheels in terms of newton metre seconds is probably not going to be very useful to the vast majority of those buying flywheels.
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:19 PM   #98
sdh7711
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Default judder in first

Well been having some issues with my 2004 WRX studdering coming out of first gear only and its intermittent. Tried swapping Maf's out and cleaning them as well as IACV cleaning and fuel filter and no luck. So pretty sure the clutch is chattering going from a stop to start. No other slippage at all though.

I have stage one and may go to stage 2, would the exedy 15802 be good or should I go the 15950? How much are the exedy's roughly?

Also does anyone know about these company (Competition clutch?)

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...004+wrx+clutch

Their street kevlar set up looks nice.
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Old 02-24-2009, 12:55 PM   #99
Unabomber
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READ the thread bro...this isn't a question dumping ground. The thread has all the info you need. This is not the cost forum nor do we have one, the vendor for sale forum is where to find pricing. I am currently email chatting with Competition Clutch and they actually answer email which is damned amazing. I'm going to edit my clutch TQ list in the next hour if my internet holds up. If you want real CC info, use the search feature in this forum and the car parts review forum, but a clutch is a clutch really.
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Old 02-25-2009, 03:25 PM   #100
sdh7711
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Default Resurfacing the oem flywheel?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
READ the thread bro...this isn't a question dumping ground. The thread has all the info you need. This is not the cost forum nor do we have one, the vendor for sale forum is where to find pricing. I am currently email chatting with Competition Clutch and they actually answer email which is damned amazing. I'm going to edit my clutch TQ list in the next hour if my internet holds up. If you want real CC info, use the search feature in this forum and the car parts review forum, but a clutch is a clutch really.
Sorry sometimes reading all the info a short time can be overwhelming.

Good to see Competition Clutch responded back and gave you some numbers to be able to work with. Probably a good omen for them being a decent company then being forthright like that no?

Also what about adding to the FAQ about resurfacing the OEM flywheel? I have been searching the forums and most say you can resurface the OEM flywheel no problem.....but some say you can't, as well as Subaru, and the Subaru dealership I take my car to. Are there significant pluses and minuses to both/is it really ok to resurface the oem flywheel?

As always thanks for the info.
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